kgg

Thank you all. Just an update. I finally moved the Singer 29k-71 upstairs this morning to it's new resting space and changed the needle from the original 29 x 3 system to a 135 x 16 #20 needle for a quick test. Thanks to Wiz's info it was a straight swap. I also ran some V138 through which is I think the lowest size that will accept the V138 thread but doesn't really leave enough space for the bobbin thread too be pulled up. The propose of the test run was to see i) how close the number of stitches per inch it would sew versus what the manual said it could do. Manual says: 7 to 15 to the inch. depending on material being stitched and operations performed. ii) to see if it could sew above the normal 1/4" max. I hadn't adjusted the bobbin thread tension which also contributed to the bobbin thread not being properly pulled up. Photo 1: Shows that it will sew 7 1/2 stitches per inch. I'm pleased I can live with that. Photo 2: Shows a how thick the veg tan scraps were that I hobbled together. 11/ 32" or 8.73mm I'm happy with this as well. Comments always welcomed. kgg

I changed the original needle with a 135 x 16 #20 with some V138 thread for a test run on my 1949 Singer 29k -71. It work perfectly. Thanks Wiz kgg

Just a simple swap out . kgg

I think a couple of problems: To small a needle, so there isn't really enough space in the hole the needle made and you don't have enough top tension which until you use the right needle you will not be able to properly get. A # 18 needle is good for a much smaller thread Tex 70 (V69). kgg

You are using to small of a needle for Tex135 ( V138 ) thread should be a #22 for fabric / thin leather ; #23 for leather; and sometimes depending on how tough and thick #24. Check out " tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html " for what size of thread goes with what needle size. kgg

I am looking at figuring out a method of installing a simple domestic sewing motor to the rear base of the machine. Something along the lines of what some have done with the 29k-4's but the 29k-71 does not have a mounting hole and I don't want to drill one in the machine or the base. If anyone has a suggestion or knows of an adapter plate of some sort I would appreciate the info. kgg

I just finished giving I'M a redneck formula bath the crap that that came out was black to say the least. The rear gears and roller bearings have almost no wear which surprised me. Now I'm moves with a light touch on the hand wheel. For shits and griggles did a unscientific noise level measurement. We used a CEM DT-805 Digital Noise Meter to measured the normal db level where the machine is and measured the level as it went through it's hand cranked cycles. Normal quiet noise level in the area was 38 db and again with the machine going through multi hand cranked cycles peaked a 52 db so the machines peak noise was 14 db. Putting that into perspective normal conversation in the machine area was measured at 72 db. I figure I'M is a pretty quiet sort of a guy. kgg

Thank you both and the best part it does sew. Just not a pretty face. kgg

Hi may name is given name is I'M, my surname is Singer 29K71. I was conceived on October 11, 1949 I think in Clydebank, Scotland. Later I was badged as a Centennial 1851 to 1951 before making the great voyage with some of my brothers to the new world. During my 70 plus years I have been used and feed a steady diet fabric and leather. Boot leather was probably my favourite. I have outlived many a caretaker some were better then others until finally arriving in Ontario to probably my retirement home with kgg. Kgg gave me a spa treatment where my base was high pressure hosed with good old fashion soak and water, I thought my skin was going to peel off but I survived that only too have my coat touched up and polished along with four new high density rubber soles glued to my feet. My body, well it does shown some battle scares and is a bit dull in spots. I had the many years of nicotine and dried oil removed from my coat and hand polished bringing back my best parts too show how well I have aged. My large head bolt and clutch bolt have over the years been badly gouged which needed to be ground down. I am still missing, but promised, a new bobbin thread tensioner nut, a top head spool rod and a cotter pin to replace the nail in my end pulley wheel. My flatbed attachment legs, well they were a little scummy and had to be repainted to match the rest of me. My two double needle end plates can handle my sharp points from #11 to 24 are in really good shape with the one for small threads in excellent shape as my previous owners rarely used it, preferring the #18-20 needle hole. Even though my arm is 5" shorter then my bigger brothers 72 and 73 at 12 1/4" I still can manage to reach most things with a helping hand. Before going to my room, all I need is to revitalize the old joints with some redneck oil.

I would look for something in the 29k 70 series of machines. Where are you located? Someone my be able to recommend something in your area. kgg

My take on the machine: 1) The instruction manual seems a bit difficult to source but the parts manual can be had at https://www.hendersonsewing.com/manual.asp?page=63 from the Henderson Sewing Machine Company. 2) If I'm not mistaken the machine dates to around early 1930's. 3) The duck tape on the bobbin cover, that's not right indicates the catch level is damaged. 4) Is there a second bobbin cover. Originally there were two bobbin covers depending on the size of needle you were going to sew with. 5) With the way the machine is setup with the hand wheel on the far end indicates it was setup to be belt driven not hand powered and bolted to a cast iron base. Trying to reach the hand wheel to sew is going to be difficult to say the least. 6) Where is the cast iron base, drive belt and flat table top attachment? 7) The adapter, large head screw and hand wheel engaging clutch assembly is missing to put the hand wheel on the side of the machine for hand power operation. 8) I don't see a threading rod for threading the top thread down inside the head. 9) The stitch length could be as simple as the adjuster isn't set properly or worn out internal parts. 10) The overall condition of the machine indicates it was stored in a damp area. There is a good three part youtube video ( youtube.com/watch?v=95S6IvyPAN0 ) showing the restoration of a 29k 51 which has some slightly different internal parts as outlined in the Henderson linked parts manual this machine. For me, I would pass on the machine unless the price was under $100 and I wanted a project machine to strip down, repaint and replace worn out parts. What is the seller asking? Just my opinion, kgg

Without any photo's, I would probably consider keeping the Alder 67 GK-373 and the Singer 153W104 depending on condition. You may have better luck finding a manual for the Singer if you search for 153 K104 the letter I think just indicates whether it was made made in the US or the UK. The parts for the Alder and Pfaff's are expensive and for the Alders some accessories are made specifically for them. kgg

Yes, I think all of us have had to hand wheel at some time or other. Remember to back off your pressor foot tension. The main pain is growing that third arm. One arm to guide the material, second to hold the top and bottom thread on starting the seam and a third to hand wheel. Oh, I forgot one to hold the reverse level down to reverse and lock the stitches. Best of luck, kgg

My take on pressor foot lift is just the clearance from the bed to the bottom of the pressor foot for ease of getting items under and out from the needle. It would be nice if the manufacturers came out with a spec that said " the max sewing thickness is XX mm " just like they do for thread. kgg

I think, if you are going to be sewing 1/2 " constantly you probably should be looking at a different machine. Yes, you may on occasion push your machine to do more then it was designed to do. But you run the risk of damaging other internal components. If the 1/2" is going to be a regular occurrence or just a would like then you need a machine that can do 1/2" plus at least a 1/8" for your safety margin. It is better to run a machine designed to handle slightly over your needs then running a machine at it's design max and is definitely better then running a machine beyond it's design max. That then probably means looking at cylinder bed machine as they would probably be more cost effective then a flatbed capable of sewing 7/8" thick items. kgg

Stairs and any sewing machine definitely don't go together. With that said all my machines are on the second floor except for anything dedicated to the basement for a spruced up or on a out the door journey. kgg

Nice short to the point, personable video. kgg

The last time I owned one of those Singer 127 / 128 models was about 10 years ago I got it for $50 from an estate sale in working condition just required the wood work to be refinished. I think people buy them today mostly for a show piece. What I have seen in the used market over the last couple of years here in Ontario is: i) The featherweight Singer 221's asking between $300 - $900 with the white ones closer to $1500. The free arm version always seem to sell for $200 - $300 more. I had a Singer 221 for a short time, nasty little machine, they seem to be popular with the quilter groups as they are light to carry (about 11 pounds) from place to place. ii) I think if someone needs a drop feed domestic the Singer 99K's are pretty bullet proof and can be had for about $200 in excellent condition. iii) Singer 29k's asking range between $400 to $1000 depending condition and on whether they are complete with the original base, flatbed attachment, manual and threading rod. This is up from a couple of years ago from the $200 to $300 range. Why???? I just pickup a 29k-71 with original base and in decent working condition all it needs so far is a little TLC. If it doesn't do what I am hoping it to do I'll sell it in a couple of months. iv) Juki 563 asking range between $900 - $1500 up from $500 - $700 a couple years ago. v) Since Covid 19 the prices have been increasing to point that it is just as well to buy new for what people are asking for used industrial walking foot machines. Just my opinion. kgg

I would say that all the brand name threads are probably within a certain tolerance of one another. The cheaper quality no name brands who knows. The strength would probably be in the far north of a 1000 pounds. kgg

A little more harsh then myself but when I need a good quality item I look at items made in North America first, then Europe, then Japan, then South America with China being a last resort. I have bought fabric out of Paraguay, desktop fabric strip machine for making binding out of Brazil, 3d printers made in Czech Republic and sewing machines made in Japan. kgg

From the information I have see I think it would be be based on the number of stitches per inch. The formula would be the number of stitches per inch X the breaking strength of the thread X the thread loop factor: Example would be: stitches per inch: 5 V69 breaking strength equal: 11 lb thread loop factor for 301 stitch (lockstitch) type: 1.5 and thread loop factor for 401 (chainstitch) type: 1.7 Lockstitch Seam strength = 5 X 11 x 1.5 = 82.5 lbs. Chainstitch Seam strength = 5 X 11 x 1.7 = 93.5 lbs. The reason a chainstitch seam has more strength for the same thread size with the same seam length but there will be about twice the amount of thread used. kgg

I would suggest using 138 in the bobbin. If you use a smaller thread in the bobbin the strength of the seam will be limited to the lesser thread size in the bobbin. If you use a larger thread in the bobbin say 207 the seam strength will be limited to the capacity of the 138 thread on the top. kgg

I believe in buying good quality tools / equipment not necessarily the best or even new equipment but not the low priced cheap quality stuff unless I am going to treat it like a BIC lighter. If you don't like a particular aspect of the hobby chances are you can resell good quality equipment otherwise you maybe stuck keeping or taking a bath on resale. There is always a market for good used quality equipment. Good quality equipment always lessens the frustration associated with learning something new and helps, at least me, to concentrate on learning. I have always liked good quality equipment that was above my ability level, one less thing to wonder about. Equipment or me, most likely me. I typically try to follow the Buy Once, Cry Once method of buying equipment. It really depends on what someone wants to do and how much money you can afford. Example you can make a leather wallet using thousands of dollars in equipment like clicker presses, electric skiver, electric burnishers, electric sewing machines, etc while at the minimalist end of the scale a box cutter, a little glue, straight edge, some tap water, carpenters hammer, rivet setter, and a few copper rivets. kgg

Thank you. That makes things a lot easier. kgg

I just picked up a 1949 vintage Singer 29k - 71 in decent enough working condition complete with original stand and flat bed attachment. I will be starting the process of cleaning / oiling etc. Has anyone converted their Singer 29k -71 to a 135 x 16 needle system from the 29x4? This would make life a little more simple as only having too have one needle system that is interchangeable between my other machines. kgg