kgg

I agree that the days of open carry have long passed but holsters are still a saleable item in Canada as you need to have one to properly contain your gun on any firing range. kgg

Glad you got the noise problem under control. Neighbors come in a types, some good, some bad. I pity people living in such close quarters.Glad I don't have that problem as my closest neighbor in any direction is about a mile away. Real social distancing. kgg

Sailrite are generally expensive but have a good service reputation. This looks like their LS-1 painted green portable walking foot sewing machine placed in a table with a decent servo motor. The maximum thread size it can handle is V92. If I'm not mistaken they were once sold through Tandy stores. These portable machines were designed for sewing sail material not leather. Most portable walking foot sewing machines have very aggressive teeth on their feed dog and pressor foot and have a tendency to leave marks. For about the same money if all you need is a walking foot (feed dog, pressor foot) you could get a Juki DU-1181N ( max thread of V138) for about the same price. Personally I would look at a triple feed machine where material is feed through by the feed dog, the needle and the pressor foot. I would recommend you look at upholstery class machines like the Juki DNU-1541S ( max thread of V138) for about $1800 or a clone triple feed maybe like a Consew 206RB-5 for about $1500. Also I would recommend you visit a vendor and test drive a couple of machines with a sample of the materials and the thread you are planning on using. Just like cars there is also the used machine market where you can buy a good used machine at a reduced price. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I don't know what sewing machines are available to you in Slovenia and am going to assume you are needing a cylinder bed machine. I would think you are going to be looking at cylinder bed machines above the Juki LS -1341(V69-V138) like the Juki TSH-441model (V346 and above) and clones. It will also depend a lot on what thread size you are planning on using not just the thickness it can sew. As far as being portable machines that are capable of sewing what you want is probably not going to happen. These machines are going to weight much more then the 9.5 kg (21lbs) Tippmann Boss you are use to lifting around. Expect the machine heads to be in excess of 37 kg ( 81lbs ) for 1341 class machines and 56 kg( 123lbs ) for 441 class machines. Also these machines are expensive (3 plus times the cost) of your Tippmann Boss). Another option in the one armed bandits maybe a Weaver Cub ($1650 US). I have never used either the Tippmann Boss or the Weaver Cub myself but I would suspect the Weaver Cub to be quieter as it uses a wheel to cycle the needle versus a lever action. kgg

Any chance of providing some extra photo's showing how you have threaded the machine from the top thread spool to the needle, machine name and model number. kgg

To get a good answer could you give a get a photo from the front and what the stamped information says (numbers and manufacturer info) . The stamped info then can be tracked back to the manufacturer and it's intended propose. The attachment appears to be made by Tennessee Attachment Company (tennattachment.com). The machine appears to have had the original pressor foot removed, possibly the feed dog changed and the bottom thread guide and screw located just before the needle appears to have been replaced with a make shift guide arrangement. kgg

That just cracks me up. I needed a good laugh. kgg

As Wiz said it is a Singer 29k72 clone. The AXIS brand appears to be Tomsewing (www.tomsewing.com) which is Liya international Group (http://www.liyainternational.com) house brand who mostly deal in used sewing equipment out of China. These machines can also be found on Ebay. Good, bad or indifferent who knows but I would expect little after sales support. kgg

I am not a fan of the Chinese 3d printers but it looks like the Ender finally found something it can do reasonably well. kgg

What are you planning on sewing? kgg

If you go to the Landis site ( http://landisinternational.ca ) you maybe able to find some close matches. The important point is what are you planning on sewing and with what thread sizes. Then look at machines which will be able to handle those projects. From looking at the other ads the owner has up they may have been used in a shoe repair shop environment. Looking at the condition of the machines my thoughts are : i) The post bed looks like it has seen better days as it appears to have been stored for some time, rusted parts maybe present. ii) The Singer appears to be maybe a model 17-41? and parts like shuttles maybe hard to find and limited to V92 thread. iii)The flatbed seems like some form of a Seiko STH-8BL or similar and appears to be in good cosmetic shape and probably able to handle V138. iv) All three machines have clutch motors which you should replace with servo motors for many reasons. If any of these machines meets your needs go take a look and see if they will sew your stuff with the thread size you want to use. kgg

The in the catalogue photos there are two major differences from my Juki DN1541S other then the accessories I installed for my needs. i) the bobbin on mine is accessed by sliding the bobbin access plate to the left and sliding the bobbin horizontally in the bobbin case vs the double plate in the above catalogue photos where the bobbin is in the vertical position like the 1508 or the older 563. ii) the top thread tension assembly in the above catalogue photos is a multi tensioner system found on the 1508 versus the single tensioner system on my Juki DNU-1541S kgg

They don't look like my Juki DNU-1541S. kgg

The thread sizes you are using if my conversion is correct are: Belts: thread size 15/3 or even 10/3 if possible These Tkt numbers converted to the "V" size would be V 207 for 15/3 and V 277 for 10/3. Bags: with thread size 20/3 This Tkt number converted to the "V" size would be V 138. Wallets: with thread size 30/3 or even 40 These Tkt numbers converted to the "V" size would be V 92 for 30/3 and V 69 for 40. Personally I would probably look for a heavier duty machine then the DNU-1541/X55245 machine if most of your work involves using Tkt 10/3 ( V277) thread top and bottom. You maybe need to look at having two machines, one for the Tkt 10/3 ( V277) projects and one for the rest. kgg

To get nice stitches particularly with the Sunbrella material which will depend on the denier, you will need at least 3 layers or more. I found it acted more like ripstop from a sewing perspective and getting the bottom stitch up into the material can be a chore. kgg

This maybe as simple as the nut on the tension disc is screwed in tight so the coiled tension spring is putting to much force on the discs. Try backing the nut off and see if the discs become slack when the pressor foot is locked in the up position. They could also be seized together from lack of use. It maybe that the rod that pushes the apart is damaged or worn out. A photo of the tensioner may also help. kgg

I looked at your photo's and I would suggest a couple of things to try that may or may not work. i) remove thread from your needle back to the vertical guide just before the tensioning discs. ii) lock the pressor foot in upper position and retread. This will release tension on the two discs. The discs now should be slack and movable. Rethread as you did before. Now you will assured the thread is in as far as it can go between the tensioner discs as possible. iii) when you have threaded the needle unlock the pressor foot from the up position. Test drive and see if that makes a difference. If not the discs may have a thread path worn in them. So I would turn the very first guide from the vertical position to a horizontal position and thread like a Juki 1541 which has the first guide in the horizontal position. This would change the position of the thread through the discs. kgg

The one arm bandits have their place but as some of us become a little older with a few more physical limitations motorized equipment offers a much more enjoyable solution. You didn't mention what type of things you are presently hand sewing now or want to sew. With that info someone can offer viable motorized solutions as to machines and accessories, new and used as well as brand name or clone machines. A motorized machine will definitely take the stress and strain off your dominate hand. kgg

Maybe to help reduce your time in creating stitching holes if you modified a multi hole Stitching Chisel to fit in the chuck of a drill press. Then just use the lever to press the Stitching Chisel down through the leather that way every hole would be identically spaced. By the way I do like the snake skin insert.

Yes. That is the correct location for the vertical guide pin. Your main thread has to be threaded through this before going to the horizontal guide that is located just above the bobbin winder. I would recommend you have your top thread come from the top arm of the spool stand for your top thread directly vertical pin. When threading this vertical pin with your top thread it will cross over the large round dial for adjusting the amount of lift for the pressor foot and walking foot. So that the top thread doesn't touch the top of the dial you thread this pin by going into the bottom hole first and out of the top hole. The hole in the top arm of the spool holder for guiding your top thread ideally will be as close to being horizontally level and create a straight line from the horizontal guide to the top arm guide hole.This may pose a problem with the type of spool holder you are using. So you can wind a bobbin while happily sewing along you could replace the 2 hole pin with a 4 hole vertical pin or do something similar to my solution or just have your bobbin thread come directly from the top arm guide hole directly into the bobbin thread guide. My take on this is that it holds the top thread for a split second acting as a damper so the thread doesn't go slack or to tight in the cycling of the top thread arm and reduce unwanted thread movement at the needle. Some other machines don't use this at all while others particularly in the 341 class use a felt pad inserted in the guide just below the take up level to achieve the dampening effect. The spring loaded flat piece system is also used with some 2 needle systems to help keep the two threads separated during the sewing cycle with one thread being on each side of the screw. I have used my 1541S both with and without the flat wiper. I found not much if any benefit when using V69 or V92 but a difference with black V138. Just my two cents worth kgg

Yes, looking at the video your thread is being snagged. This is one of the reasons why I do not use the cheap spool tree that seems to come with all new machines these days. I noticed you don't have the vertical guide pin installed between the horizontal guide just above the bobbin winder and the thread spool stand which may contribute to the problem as the thread entry angle is to steep. The vertical pin helps maintain a slight thread tension from the spool. I would suggest: i) install the vertical thread guide ii) lower the thread spool holder down to as low as you can so it basically on the top of the table iii) readjust the top thread guide arm down which will help reduce the angle iv) check the spool of thread for a manufacturing defect in how the thread was wound onto that spool or a thread defect. It maybe just simpler to replace it with the other spool of thread and see if it occurs on that spool of thread as well. What I do is try and get the thread to make as straight a horizontal line ( Photo K-3 ) as possible between the horizontal guide which on the 1541S is just above the bobbin winder, the first vertical thread post pin (which your machine doesn't have installed) and the thread guide hole just above the spools. Keeping a straight line means the thread spool is moved to the far right rear corner of the table. The purple thing in my photo (K-3) is a thread guide that just slips over the original vertical pin and is just used as a simple guide for the bobbin thread. The less angles either horizontally or vertically the thread has to make before the horizontal guide (which on the 1541S is just above the bobbin winder) gives a more constant top thread tension. I don't use the thread spool stands that came with my machines, don't even take them out of the packaging, they all pose more problems then they are worth. I didn't have a good photo of the spool stand on my 1541S so Photo K19 is a thread spool stand on a Kobe 1341 which maintains this straight horizontal thread path. kgg

The thread you are using are a great brands so the thread shouldn't be the problem. As a note in Canada and I am going to assume in the US A&E stopped selling and producing the 8 oz spools about 3 years or so ago. When this happens how much thread is left on the bobbin? You should start out with a 80% full bobbin and work down. Winding to bobbin to only 50% or less may cause inconsistent thread tension within the bobbin and allowing the thread to basically unravel within the bobbin. Any chance of a photo of the bobbin filled with the amount of thread you normally wind unto it. A & E on their 1 lb spools date their thread (upper right corner) on the label affixed to the underside of the spool not sure about the 8oz size. kgg

The 8 oz size thread spools can be a challenge at the best of times. There are many factors at play with thread both in spool and bobbin. Some of the issues are: 1) Poor thread consistency along the length of thread on the spool. Cheap Chinese thread. 2) Spring back more noticeable on the smaller spools where the thread comes off the top of the thread spool looking like a coil spring which can create thread spring back and unraveling of a portion of the spool. Cheap Chinese thread, old thread that has developed a memory and darker colors like black being the worst. 3) Bobbin thread will very quickly develop a coil memory and as the bobbin gets closer to the end of the thread on the bobbin it looks and acts like a coil spring. Cheap Chinese thread, old thread that has developed a memory, darker colors like black being the worst and being left to long a time on the bobbin. Bobbins should be filled to about 80 percent capacity and filled relatively close to the time you need to use them. 4) Bobbins of poor quality both in dimensional and weight quality. Some can be so bad as not fitting properly on the winder causing the bobbin to be filled inconsistently and actually wobble when placed in the bobbin holder. Cheap Chinese. kgg

I would first decide on what size of thread you need / plan on using. The 335 class machines usually are rated at V69 (Tkt 40) thread which is basically the top end thread size for domestic weight thread. I would advise a class 341 or 1341 class machine as they would give a broader thread range of up to V138 (Tkt 20) for top and in the bobbin. However others can advise on what type of machine like a post bed maybe best suited for your needs in making leather slippers. kgg

The Thor Machine is similar to the Juki 1541 S but has Two extra thread tensioners (the top one with the + and - sign on it and the one located at the 9 o'clock position) which shouldn't matter, just a little more balancing needed. The tensioner system is like the the Juki 1508. I would remove the sponge in the vertical thread guide and move it up further with a very slightly tilt about the 12:30 o'clock position just to give a little extra angle on the thread going into the take-up lever. Some Juki's and clones in the 341 class have a felt pad that is inserted in the horizontal guide just below the take-up lever which I suspect the tech wanted you to insert the sponge into not the vertical guide as shown in your photo. The Juki 1541 S and 1508, according to the Juki manual, has the thread leave that horizontal guide and go through the next guide on the "Right" side of the screw. This noted in the sufficiently noted in both Juki manuals for the threading diagram. I suspect that you need to thread your machine like a Juki 1508 not the 1541. I see you are using a spool thread sock on the 8 oz threads. I would try not using them as they can give inconsistent thread tension and may not be perfect and catch / snag thread. Also I would try and lower the top arm and spool holder down so the thread doesn't have such a steep angle entering the first horizontal guide. I find the best angle is when the thread enters the first horizontal guide almost horizontally. kgg