stelmackr

As Aaron said, look for letterpress type and eBay is a good place to look. When looking for the letterpress type use Search Words: - printers type, letterpress type, metal type, metal fonts, hot stamping fonts, hot stamping letters, metal letters. I also use the point size that I am looking for to narrow my search. Here is some information to help you get the right size of type: Points are a measurement of the Block Height which the letter is on. So the letter printing is smaller than the block height. When these were manufactured at the foundry they were cataloged at the block height. The below conversions are the block height: 12 pt is approx 1/8 inch 18 pt is approx 1/4 inch 24 pt is approx 5/16 36 pt is approx 1/2 inch 48 pt is approx 5/8 inch 60 pt is approx 13/16 72 pt is approx 1 inch 84 pt is approx 1 3/16 inch You can also also purchase brand new type at: M&H Foundry ( http://www.arionpress.com/mandh/catalog.htm ) For some description of using letterpress type on leather try this: www.pslac.org/download_area/Typography%20in%20Leather%20Article.pdf Hope this helps. Bob Stelmack

I see that I did not answer your question. I asked FERDCO (now out of business) to put a larger hand wheel on my FERDCO 1245 and they used (I believe) a Juki 441 hand wheel, but had a bushing placed in it to match the shaft diameter. I do not know where the hand wheel was obtained from. Since FERDCO is out of business they are still selling out some odds and ends so check their website ferdco.com and send them an email for details. They also modified my FERDCO PRO 206 (Consew 206 clone) the same way. Here are two pictures for the 1245 and one of the 206: FERDCO PRO 1245 (Pfaff 1245 clone) FERDCO PRO 1245 (Pfaff 1245 clone) FERDCO PRO 206 (Consew 206 clone) Hope this helps.

I use a larger hand wheel (increases inertia) on my 1245 that with the servo motor and pulley reduction gives plenty of torque.

Condition is shown in these pictures: ...and sorry to say I am unable to spend more time describing this item. I need to get back to making and selling some leather products. Thank you for your interest.

If you are interested in purchasing, please contact me with an offer (without shipping, shipping will be added). It is 43" long. Hope this helps.

Yes

I can't resist. The difference between the 206 & the 406 is 200 ;-)

http://www.hewitonline.com/Scharf_Fix_2000_Paring_Machine_and_Spare_Blades_p/tl-091.htm

All of my embossing (actual imprinting) and clicking is done with an antique book press. At the Sheridan Show, last month, I was able to take some plates to test the weaver press. It did as well as my book press and did have a feature that I like--you could "over center" the press so the pressure would remain on the project until you went back and released it. That would make for a better impression. Also, the pressure with the weaver press was almost even across the plates. You still had to move the item to get even pressure over the whole project, just like I have to with my book press, but not as much. It still amazes me how powerful and versatile a plain old book press (actually a nipping press) is to work with leather. I've seen book presses for as little as $300, but usually closer to the $900 make where the weaver press is. Here is what a nipping press looks like: http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_specific.cfm?ClientID=15&ProductID=18204 Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

I make quite a few leather "slip-on" book covers. The leather holds up just fine. Usually the book fails. The reason is that without a smooth area inside the flaps and a smooth area around the flaps on the inside, the book cover is under stress every time the book is opened or closed. The simple solution, and the recommendation I make, is to make a dust cover out of a grocery paper bag. This allows the cover to slide when the book is opened and closed. If it cover sticks as the book is opened and closed the hinge area of the spine is stressed and will make the cover separate from the pages. Here is the statement I give with each cover delivered: It is strongly suggested that the book being covered retain its dust jacket or make another one for it out of paper. The paper dust jacket helps relieve any strain on the spine of the book by allowing the book’s covers to slide inside the Leather Book Cover when opening or closing the book. Covers made from suede tend to "grab" the cover, more so than other leathers, and may cause damage to the spine. Once again, it is strongly suggested that the book being covered retain its dust jacket or make another one for it out of paper. Hope this helps. Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

It was in a building next to the King Museum that had two floors. Let me give a landmark that most people could relate to that attended the King's evening party--the building was behind the people serving beer outside. ;-) Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

Here are about 600 pictures of Sheridan 2012: https://plus.google.com/photos/104853835668776803922/albums/5744998456099193617 Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

Some on-line leather groups have libraries of information that they allow their members to check out DVDs or books for a period of time. Some on-line leather groups are: www.pslac.org , iilg.org Hope this helps. Bob Stelmack

My friend James Polson, made a modification to my Grey Ghost maker stamp that greatly improved the quality of the impression. I found that with even a large, heavy dead blow hammer, that there was the chance of a double image or an image lighter on one side. Even when I did not get a bounce, but needed to deepen the impression, I found that hitting that large, flat end was not always successful. My stamp has lots of small lettering making it even more difficult. James' modification makes the hitting alignment much easier and forces the blow more towards the center. Here is a picture of the modification to the hitting end: Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

Me to. Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

I have made several from my first kit purchase in 1988. The trick is to make the ball carrier and the brass feet that were included in the kit. Here is what I did. I made a square wooden frame, glued and screwed, out of 2 by 2's to fit the bottom. Then used bolts and decorative brass acorn nuts to mount it inside the bottom. The brass acorn nuts were on the outside and the bolts and the wooden frame was on the inside. Do I need to draw a picture? Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

These links are from an old website that is way out of date. Maybe these can help: http://home.earthlink.net/~kenhale/proseries/tools1.html http://home.earthlink.net/~kenhale/proseries/tools2.html http://home.earthlink.net/~kenhale/proseries/tools3.html http://home.earthlink.net/~kenhale/proseries/tools5a.html Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org

There is an article from the RawHide Gazette: ReDuRan Hand Cleaner Something else we got from Tony Laier was a hand cleaner for removing dye from your hands. Paula tried it and it really works well, so we ordered some, which just arrived today. It is ReDuRan which is made in Germany by Stoko. The web site is www.stoko.com They have an outlet in England. Their web site is rather interesting with all the cleaning stuff that they have... Norm Lynds The whole issue is at: http://www.pslac.org/public/10_oct05.pdf To locate a local distributor, just Google this text: "reduran hand cleaner" Hope this helps. Bob Stelmack

Contact M&H Foundry and ask to purchase just a single character (called sorts) for the "&". you'll find them at: http://www.arionpress.com/mandh/foundry.htm M & H Type 1802 Hays Street, The Presidio San Francisco, California 94129 Telephone: 415-668-2546 Fax: 415-668-2550 E-mail: mandhtype@arionpress.com Bob Stelmack

I might have one that you could borrow, if I knew the size you need. Bob Stelmack

I use old letterpress printing stamps to impress letters into leather. The same things used print newspapers and books in the old days. Here is what I mean: This one is about 5/8" tall, but depending on the font size they can be smaller or larger. What size do you need? Bob Stelmack

I second the comment about FERDCO ( http://www.ferdco.com ). Ron, Cheryl and Rick have been more help to me than any other business I have ever dealt with. I own three of their machines: two new flat beds and one cylinder machine. I highly recommend their Sewing Machine Class given each year at the Pendleton, Oregon, Leather Show in November. It is worth the trip and you will also see: Oregon Leather - leather, Tandy Leather Factory- leather, , Barry King Tools- Hand tools, Bob Douglas Tools - Hand tools, Wayne Jueschke - Hand tools, Hansen Western Gear - Silver and silver jewelry, Bee Natural - Horse Care Products, Sheridan Leather Outfitters & Bob Dougles tools - Leather, tools and leather related products, Herb Bork & Son's - Cast Hardware, - Bronson Knives -Hand tools - Weber Stirrups - stirrups, - Chuck Smith Tools - Stamping Tools, Ron's Tools- Hand Tools, Y-Knot - leather lace, James Jacob - used leather tools and related products, Timberline Saddle Trees (pending - drew special Elk hunt) - saddle trees, Marlin Leather - deer skin glove and other leather suppliers. To me it is the "poor mans" Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show

Google Search gives this: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/bonded-leather.html

http://www.fabriconthenet.net/bonded-leather-leather-vinyl/?zenid=c408bcaa0c61dc72feaa92c1382e10d7

Bill Churchill showed me some leather that changed to a purple color when he had used oxcylic acid (wood bleach) to clean the leather before dyeing. Wonder if this may have happened with your processes. Bob Stelmack www.pslac.org