Zonker1972

Rocky mountain leather is fairly inexpensive and has a pretty good selection

I've searched through the forum and done some google searching but i'm just getting a consistent answer on top coating motorcycle seats that will be used in the weather. I used oil based dyes, allowed them to dry for 72 hours and then oiled with olive oil, al la Don Gonzalas. But now I am stuck on the best finish to use to protect my leather as well as allow me to condition my leather. I have discounted resolene even though it would be a barrier to the elements because I do not feel that an acrylic top coat will flex with use and it would be a permanent barrier allowing no leather conditioning over time.. Don Gonzales has suggested on his youtube vids that tan kote allows the leather to absorb oils but is "water resistant". I initially liked this idea and was going to finish with tan kote. however, the more work I put into these seats, the more scared I am that some weather will destroy all my work. I have also seen some post on using leather balm with atom wax and/or pecard motorcycle leather dressing. The ideas I took away from these posts is that the wax creates a barrier to keep out water but not a permanent barrier, a barrier that requires some maintenance. I am starting to lean towards the leather balm with atom wax or the pecard. Can I get some opinions from others who have made tooled motorcycle seats? thank you, Zonker

the glue is not going to make a durable bond. you can use wood glue and then stitch the two pieces together. that will give you the working time and hold the pieces while you mechanically adhere them with the thread.

if you are wet molding after you sew, i don't see why it matters if the glue is degraded. the glue is only there to hold the leather until you sew a permanent bond. if the water degrades the glue, the leather is still sewn together.

i hit a cow.... totaled the bike. 9 surgeries later you'd never even know. after the accident i couldn't find my watch. 2 years later i found it in the side pocket of my tail bag. i guess i took it off before the accident. live and learn. nice wallet by the way. i like that you used only carving stamps.

i agree with Retswerb. solid book.

that maybe the 1st time i have ever heard of a Barry King knife referred to as "budget friendly". i am by no means a greater carver but i have several sk, from basic craftool, craftool pro and a pro delux from Springfield. i don't really notice a difference between the really cheap sk and the bit more expensive sk. perhaps you'll find a large difference when you move up to BK or the Wranglers sk. please let us know your findings.

you can and should treat the leather with a sodium bicarb solution to neutralize the acid in the 'groon. for a sodium bicarb solution, dissolve some baking soda, not baking powder, in water. i heated mine up on the stove. let it cool and store in a bottle just like the 'groon. dip the leather in the sodium bicarb solution for about 5 minutes. this sodium bicarb treatment will neutralize the acid, vinegar is a weak acetic acid, and get rid of some of the vinegar smell. this treatment may address the corroding/tarnishing of some metals that maxdaddy spoke noted

thanks saintjoy. i also made another story board awhile ago for the other figure carving tools i have on the right side of my bench. it helps me remember what the tools will do

retswerb, it's a surface pro3. the touch screen broke so now i use it just for leather videos.

I got this piece of countertop off craigslist for next to nothing. cut it in two and epoxied it so that it was ~2.5" thick. However, it was annoying that when cutting pieces of leather the granite got in the way. i decided to inset the 2.5" granite into my bench. to make sure the table held, i put 4 1" square steel tubes spanning the granite from side to side and then epoxied it in place. it took me way too long but it was a fun use of some tools. now to start tooling...

I got a bit annoyed with how long it took me to get out my stitching pony. since i made it, i decided to modify it. it is now mounted under the bench. it slides forward on some 1/2" bolts and then mounts to the front of the bench using a 5/16" bolt and a threaded insert in the bench front. in the left side pic you can see that i also built a swivel base that i can mount on the bottom of this pony to turn it any angle that works. i saw a pony like this on etsy and decided to make one. i've got another pony that isn't so elaborate that will mount to the bench front just to the right of this pony (see the two holes for the threaded inserts. Now, i just need to start using the ponies for stitching up some motorcycle items. zonker

thanks for the link. i also found an instructable where he just makes the frame out of 1/8x1/2" steel. obviously that would allow you to make it in any size you need. https://www.instructables.com/Leather-MD-Briefcase-Doctors-Bag/

i was afraid that it might be too large.

has anyone ever used a doctor's bag frame on a dopp bag? https://ohiotravelbag.com/collections/purse-frames/products/p-2927?variant=30384615620692 I feel like it would keep the dopp bag open and allow you to get things in and out a lot easier. zonker

weldwood from Lowes or Homedepot works well. or wood glue if i'm gluing something thin to something thick.

i use these from bottom of the harbor freight. they work really well. especially helps when i'm stiching. https://www.harborfreight.com/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html

go to the dollar store and get some flexible cutting mats.

Hey Everyone, I hope that someone can help. I am making a stamped leather picture matting (hollow square that goes around a picture inside the frame) for a picture from Sturgis this year. I did this before and had issue beveling the inside corner. I will be using a punch to make clean corners but would like the corner to be beveled like the straight runs of the matting. Anyone have any tips? thanks, Zonker

i've used PVA, regular wood glue, with good results on some dog collars. the weldwood contact cement was bleeding through the thin liner. zonker

i measured a maul at tandy when i thought about making a maul from HDPE. i came up with a handle ~5" long, diameter depends on how big your hand is and a HDPE head of 2.5" tall with a 3" diameter. i hope that helps zonker

https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm about 1/2 way down the page. zonker

where is everyone getting their sheepskin pads for dying, antiquing and oiling? I've seen some "scrap" bags on esty but not much else. thanks, Zonker

I just come across this and i thought it may help out some members that are dealing with space issues like me. I have been hesitant to purchase full sides of leather. I envision several disaster scenarios using my small cutting mat. I found this banquet table at target for $29.99. It's 72x29 inches and made of a "resin" which i believe is HDPE. Target has these on close out, so get it while you can. They also have a 4 foot version for $35. zonker

about 1/2 way down the page ian has a table that may be helpful. https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm for that application he suggests 8-9 spi