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nylonRigging

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Everything posted by nylonRigging

  1. Among other foams I regularly use . I have used this for years sewing on certain items where I need thin foam between panels . ( It works real nice ) . Floor underlay foam is a thin closed-cell polyurethane foam, ( 1/8" ) thick that is, good price, closed cell, 'tough rugged' . can find it easy over at hardware like, home depot ...etc https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Standard-100-sq-ft-Rolls-25-ft-x-4-ft-x-080-in-Polyethylene-Foam-2-in-1-Underlayment-100779555/203956730?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-203956730-_-N .
  2. Ya most definitely don't want to muscle and pry to hard till you get a word from someone mechanical current on that model who has done it before . It Eats a lot of downtime hours with your time on this kind of problem caused by a tiny little part like a broken screw . Things been going real smooth for me last couple years with machine mechanics, I hate to say anything positive in Fear I will bad JuJu Jinx myself . I been threw that broken screw on needle rod before on other machines , and I remember a couple years back I had the tension push pin lever on machine come loose in mid stride, and jam up, and get bent around, all from it's mount screw working loose . I had to remove and reassemble half the working mechanical guts out behind face-plate to even get my fingers to it, was a PIA for sure . .
  3. Good you got it figured out and sewing good now . Just changing from the wrong needle an easy fix . There can sometime 'subtle' difference between Needle brands for sure . And manufactures do have different designs and thoughts behind there needles . I usually buy/run Groz-Beckert for 135x5 and 135x17 needles . But . ( for example ) .. I got one straight-zigzag combo machine that the only way to get the 10mm factory width when zizzag, is to use Organ Brand needles on the timing , Organ Brand, it has a longer scarf cut than Groz-beckert needles . I prefer Groz-Beckert with there shoulder tapper shaft, over the Organ Brand straight tapper shaft . But the Organ brand do good and no complaints . Groz-Beckert I think also have smooth less friction with there shoulder step-down shaft taper, over Organ straight shaft . but you pay more for the GB's also . In Pic. below, both the Needles are 135x17 ( 21 ) . With Groz-Beckert on top , and Organ Brand on bottom . Both Sold as same size needles, but notice there is a subtle design difference on Scarf and also Hole . - -
  4. People sewing sitting behind a machine for the most part, have there face and eyes tuned right in there within a couple feet of there materials and the needle . So No harm in wearing safety glasses behind sew machinery . There is little chance needle deflection strike and piece of broken needle going ballistic when sewing threw, Slow, Thin , Soft , Level , is a micro small chance deflection and slamming throat plate or dogs . ( but It Is still there ) .. But Deflection on the needle punching is the wild card and you can't predict , and when Needles snap they do unpredictable . I can Not Count the # of times I have had deflections and needle strikes over the years . Have replaced a few throat plates with new that have been trashed multiple strikes . I have been hit in face and arm couple times in my life behind sew machine and needle break . Once on Bartacker and that made me NEVER go without eye's or face shield on that machine, Also been hit zigzagging threw some thick harder materials webbing and cordura before on the normal industrial. ..Etc. .
  5. A ton of the old Singer 111 and 112 W's and G's ,always making there way threw the want to sell adds . You can't go wrong and they will do what you are wanting to do . they will easy run #69 thread , has the thread tension , presser-foot tension and the needle depth you need to get started , with basic wear parts cheep and all over for sale . .
  6. Would like to see also . I never seen a Hot hole punch that would cauterize . I am sure though someone makes one for large industrial automated mass volume production. When I do thicker nylons,poly's and webbing stacked on top. After I punch-cut hole, I will just cauterize the cut inside edge with small hot knife rod . ( for example ) before I pound in a long neck spur grommet . I have a small 40 watt 'solder' wand that I will just roll inside hole to 'lightly melt' cauterize the cut weave inside edge . .
  7. I can't believe Tandy Leather is even advertising and suggesting the 'plastic' Janome 3000 . Not to say it wont do very light and thin . . but ' better route and example' . I see a old but good clean and set-up ( 111 needle feed ) that runs good and local here for 350-$ , https://youtu.be/_zHNuos-ngQ?t=2 .
  8. Only machine models I have removed and dropped new rods in were guided In/Out top . ( Most Machines ) The Rod just just removes Vert. guide straight Up and out ? . On that cylinder bed, ( 227 consew ) I would think the dogs and bobbin assembly would be in the way to drop out the bottom ? Either way, ' by design' if that the way it has to go, then not that big a deal to disassemble a few things and put back to replace it . It might suck but if has to be done ( Not much Choice in the mater ) ,then you will also learn a little more about your machine . . edit add: ( free shipping ) .. https://www.ebay.com/i/162723734428?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162723734428&targetid=595076263608&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032898&poi=&campaignid=6470636535&mkgroupid=77538519077&rlsatarget=pla-595076263608&abcId=1140476&merchantid=110365109&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq-atsNyk5QIVFdVkCh21QgiQEAQYASABEgKLUPD_BwE -
  9. ( example ) . scroll down in thread . There a dude who MacGyver'ed a simple and pretty sweet lift job . in search ( old thread here ) . https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/59666-pneumatic-foot-lift/ -
  10. - ( if were me ) I would just put a brushless servo drive on it . then totally separate from the new servo . fix the pneumatic piston with new solenoid switch, hose Regulator/dryer-vile and run some air . Option #1 - You could probably just remove the air pull-push piston on Foot-Lift, and then just prefab yourself a pull chain or Rod strait down from linkage to a foot pedal for pull and Press.foot lift . Are all the parts there under the table. like Hose and Solenoid switch ? . Option #2 - The machine already looks laid out for it, So it an easy road just to roll with it and just get it working . Those little actuator solenoid switches are only 20-$ and less . The pistons are actually really cheap cost also . hose and fittings you can just go over hardware store or on-line . Those pistons are just a simple Air IN/Out Push/Pull, and you could easy just take and put fresh plastic hose and get a little pancake air compressor with regulator and put in-line with that a dryer vile to get that thing working . Pneumatic looks intimidating but on old machine stuff it actually really simple . All it is 'air' and a when push on your knee or foot button, it just pulls down the press-foot linkage with the piston and then when you let-up on the witch it just releases pressure from piston . .
  11. This what he said ....LOL . You also pay more for shipping cost than new rod cost , & That exactly what I did on last needle screw that snapped ragged edge and was a NoGo on thread-out . it not that hard to remove and drop new fresh rod in . .
  12. Forum archives 2014 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56434-singer-29-4-stitch-length-and-foot-pressure-adjustments/ -
  13. Same/similar here as ( konapiaiola ) just said . I order in and use rolls of ' Skrim Back ' 1/4" and 1/2" high density pink . I have had a lot practice last few years with foam on a couple larger size items I sell . ( For Me ) .. I use a 'narrow foot' and knock down on the foot pressure to help lower foot friction and help move smoother . You still need to have hands-on and massage as you feed the panels threw, but it all goes pretty smooth . Also all the panels I am sewing have a lining-inner panel , So I do all my sewing Skim side up. just make all my stitch guard marks on the skrim side . the inner liner hides all my guild marks . .
  14. I vote ---> . If ( it runs ) and you have a space for it to be stationed , ( Get It ) . 111and 112 needle-feed machines Run sweet, price is right, parts are plentiful . And, You need more than one machine to make your life easier, and setting-up machines for a specific purpose/job is the way to go . .
  15. Your nylon is always going to be a little stiff and curly with memory of the wrap/tension, especially on the last 25% left on the Roll . In your 1st post your saying that it sewed perfect until now ?? . ( if so ? ) then something has suddenly changed different . You saying ? .." you only used this one thread #size this whole time . You Did not accidentally put wrong needle in by mistake ? You did not have Scarf pointing wrong direction to Hook ? . Your Needle is pushed-up all the way in needle bar ? ---> So, you saying suddenly now, It's dropping Stitch and shredding/tangled on ( top-Thread and needle ) and fast in first 5-6 stitched laid down . You need to ' start ' by close scrutiny of all related to Needle - Hook . .
  16. That Head will clean-up and look really nice . .
  17. thread Wrapping around needle sounds weird . But start tracing down the problem . work back from the needle , needle bent/needle turned . the correct size needle and Skarf on correct direction to Hook or off-angle. Had a needle strike lately ? . look/feel for a burr on needle/throat plate, burr on Hook . .
  18. Hey that post on the overlock serger rally something I interested investing into , I do a LOT of tape seam binding .

    I really looking for a ' alternative ' to ( inside seam bind ) of my articles . what can that Juki model you got do with the heavy den.cordura's ? .

    could it sew ( 2-layers of 1-k den. ) with ( 2-layers of 200 den. lining ) ?

    Does it do a nice clean trim look for Serge edge ? / is it double needle ?

    thanks ....ray

    1. JJN

      JJN

      See if you can try your product on a running machine. I sew with 69 thread too. I think 46 is the heaviest you want to use on a serger like this. If you are ever in Grants Pass you are welcome to experiment on my machine.

      Yes, my son Johnny Noveske created Noveske Rifleworks. He actually started it in my 100 year old detached garage. It was always his business 100%. Tragically he was killed in an auto accident in 2013. The business is now run by his wife and his children are working there learning the business in his footsteps. I offer guidance whenever it is needed but they are doing a fantastic job on there own.

    2. JJN

      JJN

      A side note, there is a nice looking Pfaff 1245 near Seattle on craigslist for $650. I'd buy it but it is too far away.

    3. nylonRigging

      nylonRigging

      I will look that one up, once in a while you can get a good buy off the craiglist . I have bought 2 over the last 5 or 6 years of looking on it, but majority of people who sell sew machines on craiglist are in a alternate reality with price with there junk . but you can find good deals there, it just takes a lot of looking and time.
      That guy over across the 205 bridge is a good guy for you to have/keep his contact in case you need a odd-hard to find part or machine . he has a big horde of machines and is a industrial sewTech . It takes me good 1 hr.+ drive to get over and talk to him and it be a big drive for you . but he has mailed me parts if you know exactly what needed .
      his name is , Ryan Thomson ..  360-907-2218

      I know Ryan got several Serger heads sitting there , He has some other specialty serge Heads that I know nothing about . It just never dawned on me to use a serger for inside seam until read you post . He got pretty reasonable prices also on his stuff and if you get anything from him I know it will run without problems .
      .

    4. Show next comments  36 more
  19. Pretty sure it means they stand behind there machines for anything other than normal wear and operator abuse . I don't think they are being vague on there statement ..." limited lifetime warranty ". on purpose . I seen Reliable machines around a long time so they must be doing something correctly . https://www.reference.com/vehicles/meant-limited-lifetime-warranty-4dbf2c74b549812e .
  20. ( insert internet sarcasm here ) ---> You just need to retrain your total way of thinking, relax and go with the flow . . It Not Copying . It Is called . ..." Doing my Artistic interpretation ", of your hard work in sourcing materials countless cut and re-cuts and figuring out proper order of completion of pattern with also the proper machines doing it . .
  21. Me neither . My neighbor lady next door has the old 80's ' Domestic ' Bernina 850 and it is obviously light weight domestic with built-in motor . The Industrial 850 is heavier than the domestic with cast body . looks to have got rid of the external 217 design for cam-box's . moved it internally with a Cam-stack for stitch selection like double-throw and Zig's .. etc. . the Pic. off the Link with top view of internals of the Chandler run of Bernina 850 .
  22. - Closest thing I could GooleFu up was a.. Chandler/Bernina 850. Looks Like this one in the ( over priced ) Ebay Link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernina-850-Industrie-Sewing-Machine-w-motor-and-table/362706398525?hash=item5472fc6d3d:g:vGUAAOSw0AFcpjc3 -
  23. PM, sent on mechanic info . You down hwy. 84 E. out of Portland somewhere ? .
  24. what ( JJN ) says . you needs to be ( 1.5" ) thick . easy to laminate and add to it . Just 'Glue and Screw' cordless driver or use Air-gun staple to be fast . I used commercial gun last time I did this and was great . Don't run screws or staple/nail in the Cut-Out spot where you got to cut . you need to do it on a flat patio outside or flat inside concrete floor . just get good Plywood, Dont get crappy plugged finish plywood . You can use the particle board, but Ply. is better for not getting a Bow on the top over the long run years latter . Just Cut Ply. same size as top . glue and walk along with your body weigh and Screw it all down . Then go back in half hour and wipe all the excess glue that will press out the edges with wet sponge . leave sit for few days to cure . .
  25. As long as that table ( top is thick enough ? ) for an inlet. That is great working size top . Also you need check-look and mark on top-side where the underside metal table frame is located before commit cutting . also make sure your belt-cut-out and if running reduction wheel ? it has room on underside from hitting frame . IF it were me .. because of large size top .. I would keep it about where it is and make an set-in cut for where operator sits . So you get a little more L-side for materials to hang on the larger size patterns you stitching . ' Roughly ' . I marked with Line in Pic. for Cut Out where you Sit . Also where I marked ( D. L. ) . It EASY to hinge a Drop-Leaf that can swing-Up an lock for even more top when needed , and then just swing down and out way when not needed . -
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