nylonRigging

- That foot of japan Consew 146RB model of walker , your model Singer 153w103 high-shank feet are more common and better selection . that Consew model is good at what it does, but limited to feet selection . .

That knobby Elastic and the 'spongy' Hook all stacked together, look to be ' less than ideal ' for a nice stable surface for moving in between the feet and feed dogs . Stretchy Elastic with Knobs and spongy Velcro Hook ....LOL . . If you have a weird stack of unstable surface items together like that . It makes even tougher to do nice job, when you have a raised edge that your trying to sew the Needle close to the edge with your Presser-foot hanging half-On and Half-Off the material . Sometimes when you have a pile like this, you can put a spacer under one side of the Presser-foot that is exact width of the raised surface that your Presser-foot is on top of . That helps keep the uniformity your Foot to the the surface so you use all your Feed Dogs,and that makes far nicer stitching . ( for example) .. stacked ( 2 ) pieces thick heavy 2" Elastic, with fold-over Velcro Hook on top . then sew close to edge . For a spacer, take a piece of webbing that is same thickness of the folded Hook to . in the Pic. I pointing the pencil at the spacer . I using a walk foot here in Pic. but it really helps with all types of feed and presser foot . - -

It is said in the #2 post of this thread - ..."I would also place a sheet or two of regular paper ( on the feed dog side ) of what you are sewing". and I understand the concept that it possible to push materials being sewn thew a overly large Needle plate hole, by the needle itself or by using high amount of presser foot pressure . but I don't think the OP is saying is a problem he having ? . He not even saying what size# needle he using, or size of thread, mil thickness of Elastic, or if he has a huge needle hole that elastic is flowing ? He mainly was asking in #1 post about 'possible' getting/ using a rolled-edge foot attachment, for making a small 2" long fold on Velcro easier to and fast to do other than by hand . The 'silicon' bumps being described in #3 post from OP, on the Elastic is a little odd addition to that materiel ? , and he saying it ..." causes to much bulk ". ( I assume ) for him to sew threw ? I never have sewn Elastic with silicon bumps laminated to it's surface, that could be a learning curve ? . Never used lubrication ?. Don't know if I can add anything special as machine ?. I don't do anything special , I just sew many rolls of Elastic every year to Hook and Loop and other fabric using different machines daily with different machine feed types, without ever having problems . using majority of time a 135x5 and x17 and mostly E69 Nylon, but have used bigger threads and needles . the only bitch I ever have is maybe couple times a day I will get a little needle thread fray, from the sharp abrasiveness of the Hook side of Velcro . It also goes without saying you need to keep a new sharp fresh needle everyday for a nice smooth plunge up and down threw Elastic . OP never say's how long he been trying to smooth out his problems sewing on the project at hand ? . but repetitious practice never hurts to make things easier. .

Don't think you could make it more easy or faster or need a foot attachment for sewing rolled edge for just 2" of folded edge . As your just folding-over edge of a 2" edge of Velcro hook, sewing to topside piece of 2" Elastic . It pretty fast/easy to just use your hands to do this . also from other posts . I don't understand using paper under next to feed dogs ?, because material never gets sucked-in . or, Elastic stopping the loop forming that the Hook catches ? . I sew heavy Elastic and Velcro everyday with several different machines . your last post: ..." I am using a round point. I think I probably just have the wrong machine for the job ". A flat-bed machine or flat table attachment would be easier for you that doing on a curved surface needle plate on cylinder arm . .

- A good question on what Castor wheels ? . And I am slowly finding out there is a big difference in quality . Little wheel and the bigger wheels 2"-3"-4" . . Single-bolt post mount, or Flat-plate 4-bolt mount . . The cheap Castors you buy have a shitty friction brake lever, and the better one's have good quality friction-lever brakes that are more positive 'smooth lock/unlock , with better smooth tighter Bearings also . I use ( like using ) the 'flat base' ( 4-bolt ) , and I mount to 2"x4" and 2"x6" wood , between the machine table and Castors . I just use small lag bolts to secure castors to bottom side of wood . - -

You pretty much answered your own question ..." shorter table for better storage ". I keep 3 machines off to the side on castor wheels away from the rest, and one machine is on 1/2 flat-top table . 1/2 tables are great for saving space, or for machines that not your everyday workhorses at set stations . Also..I seen people put a hinged drop-leaf on the side of the 1/2 tables also, just swing leaf up for more sew table . .

he does nice work . I have a UT441, drilled and tapped to the arm of a 3200 artisan/Toro . His flat bed attachments are the best out there for, mounting , ruggedness ,and just pure aesthetics . .

You tuned it to your specific needs . You now advanced feed dogs, and you slow-speed stroke the needle plunge thew thicker materials . now with your new tune-up . For my curiosity, what I would like to see .. Try sewing with lighter thread and using lightweight fabric with 'speed ' on a straight run stitching, like the machine was built for . .

hey, if you don't already know this . one more thing when you get around to dialing-in your tension release, with the lever/pushpin behind tension assembly . if you making a Pin or just cutting down a generic pin to length. 1st natural thing you going to do is make it all super tight ( but don't ) . You want to have a good amount of knee-lift play before it tops-out with push-pin engagement . and having a ( good amount ) , is having enough play to lift your presser-foot with your needle down and rotate your sewing materials under it, 'without releasing ' the thread tension on the partial foot lift . .

-edit add : ... Constabulary beat me to it, minute ahead of me on posting . . This is probably something easy simple fix that you just not seeing . you just over thinking it . Your saying primarily it's ( top Thread ) not wanting to just easy pull out . If the thread not pulling smoothly out of the needle thread when you release thread tension . Then the machine's not fully releasing tension fully . Can you visually see the tension assembly disks go limp when you fully push knee-lift all the way up ? When stopping to pull work out from under foot and needle . are you using the knee-lift for lifting the needle and tension release ? . Or just using manual lever ? Every sew machine I have, when I want to pull material away from under the needle . knee-lift is topped-out to fully push (push pin) that behind tension assembly, letting the tension assembly totally let loose . ( Your needle position ) . Needle has to be stopped on it's down-stroke after just moving past/threw from it's top center. For the thread to pull-out smoothly from Bobbin assembly, and when the tension is fully released on top thread . Material should all pull away freely from under foot and away from needle . .

- Closing flap/Lid systems on outdoor items like pouches and small packs . The only way to be better for the weather protection working into you than the 'side-ears' flap, on your fold-over closing flap you are showing in the Pic. . Would be to go for a 'box cover'-Lid , with back-hinge connect to your closing system, to totally cover on all 4-sides . It can be done in leather, if you do the pattern right in a ( one-piece ) and box your corner seams . the item in pic. 1-k den nylon inside and outside and heavy padded, but it gives you an idea of what talking about . ( side view ) . I dug this old sample out of one of the box's under the table . A box-cover Lid, they look like this with back hinge connect . - -

may Not be that plate ? . I just guessing .. but it just reminds of that flat plate-clip with 'screw slot' for sliding back and forth that is there on top by feed-bar link . Pretty Funny , if someone just throws extra parts in by your machine head, that are totally unrelated to your machine, just to screw with you .... LOL.. .

- Your Pic. ? question of the ' Plate '. Is that the Slide-plate, under the needle plate . the Plate slides slightly L-R and is held down by an adjustment screw . The plate used to limit horizontal Lash (back and forth slide) of the Feed Dog assembly . It looks like it . and with that little 'tab' (on left-side) that hooks over and hold the unwanted Lash . you loosen the plate screw , push plate to the 'Right' and tighten down screw to hold . .

You can find reference of Consew listing it online. CSM3000 is a Brushless, 750 watt 1hp . . the CSM 3000 is (without PS) , and the CSM30001 is ( with NPS) . The Consew , ( Brushless Motor User Manual ) , that came with it in the box is just simple single piece of paper with the usual .. speed setting / rotation change / needle position setting / return to factory setting . The control , is a 4 -Button control panel that makes It very easy to program the necessities . The 'return factory setting' is only for NPS, .. but i did still try that on 1st day I got it . It's rebranded . But the OP posted exact machine as the one I bought, and mine new out of box hammers-out 5 stitches on the power-up . So. I will Never buy another like this model and I will not recommend to others looking to buy . Like I was saying before I called Consew day after getting it, I explained the problem, told them what the new motor was doing, but all they suggested was I make a video and send to them . And that is ( All They wanted to hear from me ) . The factory help guy was offering nothing else but me making and download a video to him . So I just said ..." I will get right on that ". then just went back to work . After that experience with Consew CS ( my Opinion ) , If you have a problem with a New bought motor . Consew Customer Support phone # , pretty much worthless, they are Lazy with little to no skill, visualization of problem solving on the products they sell . .. But in all fairness, there customer service does like to watch video at work. Consew is dead to me . .

It a ( CSM3000 ) , and it has a 4-button control panel . The package the OP posted looks exact to the Consew I have . .

Ahhhh Hey....You sure you don't want me to make and send you a Video of the motor banging out 5 stitches on power-up ? .... LOL . Consew should hire you for a Tech. Rep. for customer problems, because as of right now your sitting a plateau above there hired Staff for knowledge and customer service . The Consew service factory phone # , offered absolutely squat for my needs . Is that ( Advanced Signal ) something that I can 'code' punch-in myself on the reader control board ?, like offered with the speed, and motor direction of turn code . I did not want, and purposely bought the Consew w/out position sensor, It was sold to me without and was told not coming with PS . I can pull it off the shelf and out of the box . power it up to punch-in a code if you know of of one ? . If I could get rid of that glitch i will use it for another build, or a back-up motor . .

ya just a rebranded Consew . I bought one and mounted it to a heavy walk foot machine, ( draws 6 amp ) It a strong puncher on the slow starting stitch . smooth and strong on the faster RMP also . nice power for the money , BUT --> the one I bought has a factory glitch with it from 1st day I set it up . ( every time ) When you turn-ON power and touch the pedal, It will start sewing without stopping ' 5 Stitches ' from day 1 . I called Consew and asked them about the problem day after I set it up and ran it, but all the Consew guy told me was to make a video of it sewing the 5-stitches and send it to them . They never even tried to address my problem with the new motor .. I Not in the business of making videos , I sew . I will Never Buy Another . .

What .Wizcrafts. is all saying .... and Dude I would buy that in a heartbeat because I dont mind little projects . it does look 'somewhat' similar design to my heavy 146RB . but it looks 'even more heavier duty' in horizontal shaft size and linkage from the Pic's you gave . It looks Clean, and If it rolling and stitching ( Get It ) for tag/300-$ . you also saying less-$ price like 150-$ ? ..that a steal . If they will take less-$ than 300-$ , then it all gravy after that . You can take your time and research and X-reference all the usual parts that normal wear . If . . ( Head Only ) GET THE HINGES IF THERE THERE . but easy to order off ebay or amazon if not . you setting up a table for it, not that hard to do . Probably uses common knee-lift linkage for raising presser foot . And a oil drip-pan easy to make or buy . I would bet a weeks pay that the table cut-out is common also . .edit add:.. reason it probably looks clean as it does for it's age, is that is looks to be set-up for slow turning RPM and heavier thick work . It probably still really solid and not sloppy . Get It .

Not sure if it a totally resembles Consew design ? . Price tag say's ( 300-$ for Head ) . If that Head is operating and laying down nice stitches, (if were me) I would not hesitate a second to grab it, would be an easy table set-up project. Pic. Feet and Dogs 'are probably' look pretty common . What size needle ? and what does it use for a Bobbin Assembly ? . the Backside of the machine pic. horizontal shaft and linkage looks hell stout, and that huge hand wheel is a lot of inertia by weight when it gets rolling, so looks setup for punching slower RPM . .

- Getting 6-ft.+ of thread routing from the Cone to the Needle is easy . 'Increase Distance' of the thread routing travel, will let thread relax more, on it way threw it's path, before it gets to the Needle . ( the Std. ) industrial thread tree sold that screws to your machine top, is all the same design . There just a 2-piece of 'short' , O.D. 5/8th" Pipe, with a clamp-coupling in middle . Simple fix . just remove the top section of Pipe on the Thread Stand . Then replace it with a piece of 5/8th" pipe that is ' LONG ' . ( rise the Cones up ) and the ( top thread arm to the top ) , Above/away from clutter of machine area, with also gaining the distance for thread distance it routed . I run 8 machines, and I started a couple years ago getting the thread Cones above and away from all the work done at the machines . It not hard after you do a couple the rest of the tread tree stands goes pretty quick for extending UPward . The Pipe used is common and inexpensive and found any hardware . It is just Copper water pipe usually sold in 10-Ft. sticks at any Hardware store . - - ( in pic. below ) . There is also arm extensions that mount to the Thread Stands . That you can get to Guide\Route your Thread to the 1st Thread-post of you machine . I have a couple of them but wish I had more of them . they look like this , and are clean effective routing arm to hang-off the Thread tree's . ( if ever find let me know ) as I could use more of them . You will find every machine is going to be a little different on it's needs for thread routing, like double-needle, or single-needle, or your heavy thread-cord machines . You get more distance and with that fact, basically you want to keep it all orderly and going threw it's eyelets to the Sew machines 1st thread-post , and also route down to the machines Bobbin winder . -

For helping get the thread relaxed when using thread with higher memory and curl coming off the Cones . I think most people are thinking way to small for the length of travel of there thread, from the Cone to the eye of the needle . On my machine thread tree's . For the length of thread travel, From the Cones to the Needle . I average more than 6 Ft.+ of travel length in it's routing . I am a true believer in this, and I don't get these problems since I just expanded on the Thread Stands and gave ample free-range for the Threads to relax some along it's travels to the eye . .

ya .. The old ( YU model ) is Mitsu.walkfoot ...' I think ? ' the DU models were Needle-Feed ... Mitsubishi made a boat load of All-similar looking heads back then . also Those Pic's posted, looks just like the exact cast Body style of the 80's era Mitsubishi DB models ( bottom feeds ) with it's Body shape and color, stitch length knob and narrow black reverse lever and hand wheel . I still have an old DB-170, with parts galore still able to x-reference . .

Looks like the YU-360 mdl. was discontinued around 87, but machine new-old stock probably sold well into the early 90's . ( If the price is good ? ) with machine clean and running good . Take some cordura and webbing over there and run the machine to check it out . Jap. Mitsubishi's were put together solid back then . ALSO .. ( i sure there are ) there has to be parts/accessories for it that will fit the YU model . but you need to do work in finding the copy/clone models that resemble that design, and Feet , Dogs , needle plates , Bobbins..etc , are also shared across the board on many machines . .

- ya i hear ya on the new generic BCL's and really no reason not to keep it working in the bell . The new BCL part sells really cheap-$ and will bring new life to your 29-4 stitch length . ( The new-sold 'generic' BCL's ) , that will 'Not' just Drop-in to a 29-4 and work .. Now that I figured out what to remove/grind resurface on the 1st one I bought . I could could modify another one a lot easy and faster . It really not that hard . I surprised a lot more people not doing it . On those aftermarket china BCL's . all you need is a couple hours with a small Vice , Dremel , File and a magnifying loop to do a good job to getting it to fit-in and running good on your old machine . thanks ... for the ( bent angle Pic. ) , the original BCL that I took out still looks and sits at straight angle . So I will get my buddy to braze and I will resurface . .

The aftermarket part is working satisfactory (after working it over) and nothing to really bitch about . But ya, just think it the right thing to do is keep it all original #'s parts because of the age and condition . I am into it now for a lot of my time on the head and also put a couple hundred+$ into stripping Treadle and powdercoat . It is handy machine but No Doubt it not practical with time and energy put into it to get it respectable to sit in my sew room . really it will sit with a cover over it more than it will ever be used sewing . .