steven1

Leathermachineco.com Cobra class 26 shows $2,390.00. The company is in southern California, Ontario.

Search for "Hamley Twist", "Wyoming Twist", "Nevada Twist"... Many different names usually pretty similar process.

Shape looks pretty good. Maybe this should be moved to "Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair".

Have you tried calling Walsall Hardware? (800) 925-7255

I think when putting a 1907 sling together you will find 16 oz leather is too thick. You may have to straighten the tips of the claws to get them together. Even punching holes will be difficult (it is a lot of holes). There is a possibility that at one point on the sling 4 layers will come together (64 oz). I have a couple of these slings and I have shot a lot not competitive but a lot. I think break-in would be a nightmare. Personally I believe 8 oz would be plenty thick enough. Just my two cents. Just to make sure we are talking about the same style sling attached is a photo. Photo snipped from this website. https://www.hwsportsman.net

Personally, I like double ring. Lace through ride on the saddle well. Single ring seem to me to put the horse's feet too close together.

You might put an inside radius on the top section and a tab on the bottom section with an outside radius to protect your index finger when you pick up that hot pan.

I have switched to a D.W. Leather Works swivel knife and it has been very helpful for me.

Look at "Dive Knife" sheaths. Some are Kydex, some are nylon webbing, some a a combination with Neoprene and I have even seen some leather ones. What kind of steel is the knife made of? What are the handles made of? How wet are the conditions? What is the look the customer is going for?

That is a great old saddle. Is there any makers mark on it?

I have one and like it. I still use a regular swivel knife for some of my decorative cuts.

In my experience it doesn't change too much. Personally my waist size changes up and down more in a day than the belt length will change from an extra 5 oz of leather.

Did you ever find your mule tree?

The first leather project that got me going in leatherwork was a headstall, because I needed it at the time. It wasn't beautiful but it was safe. It was a simple brow band headstall, a loose ring snaffle still hangs on it and it is still used on occasion many years later. It is quite satisfying to build your own tack.

You might move the handle to the back similar to a "mail bag" where there would be little pressure on the flap closure.

I would probably use a 4-5 oz latigo leather. You could try it out with some 1/2" x 6' saddle strings. That won't give you a long leash but would give you an idea and a starting point for minimal investment.

What kind of dogs? How many strands do you want to use? Are you going to use a core? How long do you plan to make them? You might check the braiding section in fabrication in forums.

I have not used a Cobra class 26 but I have used a class 20 flatbed machine and a class 4 and both are excellent. I have a Juki 1508 NH flatbed machine and really like it as well but I believe the cylinder arm machine to be more versatile. I think the Cobra 26 would be a good choice. Speed reducer is also beneficial in my experience. I have not used a laser or positioning sensor so I won't comment on that.

Disclaimer, I have not made a "mule" saddle but I'm guessing many principles still apply. Saddle rigging placement has a lot to do with the conformation of the mule. The steeper the shoulder angle the further back you can have your rigging. The further back you move the rigging the more forward the saddle will ride. The main thing is not to get your saddle interfering with the shoulder movement of the mule. Mules tend to have a little steeper shoulder so a flat plate rigged saddle at 3/4 might be just right for your mules. The double ring rigging plates may offer you some flexibility in your rigging. I have not used them personally. I think you are referring to something like the attached photo with the "double d-ring up front".

Generally speaking I do not dye rough-out and I will try to oil the grain side. If it is a multi layered belt I will oil it prior to assembly. I have oiled the flesh side on occasion but you have to be careful not to over saturate.

Go try some of the machines out if you can. If you plan to sew mostly wallets you are at the very lowest end of the CB 3200. My first machine was a Cobra class 4. I thought I could sew anything with it and easily go from light to heavy work, like wallets and bags to saddles and tack. The adjustments were taking a lot of time and there was a lot of frustration. I would suggest getting a machine that you are sewing in the mid range most of the time. Cylinder arm is a plus in my book as well. There are a lot of good machines out there. Just another opinion.

Weaver Leather Supply also carries them and calls them "Collar Fastener Set". https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/01144/1144-collar-fastener-set/pr_55080/cp_/shop-now/hardware/specialty/miscellaneous

Looks pretty good, I don't know if there is any hard and fast rules. What does it look like on?

The basic Tandy tooling set if I remember correctly would have everything you need on that. Camouflager and Pear Shader you have used already. I think there is a Beveler, a couple of Veiners, a Seeder, a Mule-foot and a Backgrounder. I don't have the numbers here right now but there are a variety of those same basic tools depending on the size and style you like.

Check with Daines Sewing Machine in Murray they sometimes have some used machines. https://www.dainessewing.com/ Here is a classified of a flatbed machine. https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/56986704