Spyros

Well I didn't say gasso makes edge paint, I said that apparently it makes edge kote based on what I've read. And I haven't tried it because I don't really use edge paint so I can't comment on durability or flexibility. I have used edge kote on projects though and it still seems fairly durable and flexible a couple of years later.

Ahhhh, shit LOL I am an idiot, I was always thinking you have to turn the leather over the fabric, which means skiving etc, it never crossed my mind you can just turn the fabric over itself instead. Thank you sir, you just opened a world of possibilities Love this wallet BTW

I wish you were close by to try mine. And mind you, mine is not even the original, just a not-so-cheap copy. I can tell you that it works with any thickness and any softness, with mm accuracy. It's all about what type of blades you put in it (I'm buying Japanese "Feather" brand razor blades, which is absolutely and by far the sharpest thing I've ever seen in my life) In fact it works much better with thinner and softer leathers as you get to bend the leather around the roller which makes it easier to control. There's a bookbinder who uses it a lot, if you search for Scharffix on youtube you'll find him. It doesn't get much thinner than the skiving these guys do in bookbinding. It is however not suitable for high volume, because you have to be focused all the time, one wrong move and it will absolutely go right through your leather in the blink of an eye. It is however very suitable for low volume and for someone like you with the great dexterity and attention to detail that we can see in your work. The massive benefit for someone with a small space like you (and me) is that you use it and then you throw it in a drawer, it takes no room at all and you mount it on your table in seconds. And the cost of course.

I've read that this type of abrasion is typically the chemicals in chrome tan leather reacting with some metals, but it shouldn't happen with veg tan. Do you recall what leather it was?

Question: if you use denim or any fabric lining, what do you do with the edges? You'd have to turn them right? Otherwise the fabric will fray. I've never tried fabric lining but I was always curious.

Depends on the customer and the bag. $2.2k "unfinished" bag right here https://www.masconleather.com/bags-1#/walden-satchel Like I said, if it matches the overall aesthetic of the bag it's not a problem. If you want a saddlebag feel it's not a problem, if you want a Euro or fine leatherworking feel, it is a problem.

So to be clear, I don't know. I haven't even see such a machine up close. But is the vacuum purely for better dust collection? I mean how many handmade wallets are you going to make every day and how much leather dust is that going to produce? To be honest with you Danne, are you 100% sure that something like a Scharffix is not sufficient for your volume of work?

Yeah that was exactly my opinion What I mean is, it depends on the overall aesthetic of the thing, I'd have to see it and get an idea of what is our vision before I give you an opinion. And then that opinion would only be based on my aesthetic standards. It also depends on the leather, some have a finished backing which makes it easier to look at and some are totally fuzzy, which I don't like so much. There's also some practical considerations, a leather lining allow you to stitch things like internal pockets and pencil holders without the stitching showing from the outside. But lining makes gussets a little harder. Then it's the overall firmness of the bag, like you mention it might need a lining to add stiffness to help it handle and function properly, especially to support the handle and strap holders properly, but again if your leather is firm enough it might not need it. You won't really know this until the end unfortunately if this is the first time you're making this. But depending on your design, there is nothing stopping you from adding a brass or aluminium bar after the fact if you feel it's needed.

There is no right and wrong, it's just two different aesthetics. As long as you like how it looks.

It freaks me out when I see people sewing perfect straight lines on a machine without any sort of guide I know you get better with practice, and Brian has probably stitched a few thousand miles in his lifetime :D

Apparently edge kote is just gesso+dye. You could make a 2 litre bucket for about $30

For stamps and stuff I just bought the cheapest heat gun from the hardware store, $20 or so Just easy and fast... useful for activating glue as well.

Very nice, that's the sort of bag I'd gladly buy (before I started making my own bags) Bridal straps does sound kinky :D

Don't worry about it, it's just me being a contrarian as per normal.

That's pretty much all I do with woodworking thess days, workshop cabinets, stitching ponies and jigs for leatherworking :D

woodworking is strangely popular, for a hobby where you spend a tonne of money for the privilege of pushing sticks with your bare hands against scary spinning blades while filling your lungs with sawdust and spending your weekends researching sharpening methods for your endless list of planes & chisels, dust collection solutions, noise insulation for your garage so your neighbour stops complaining about your air compressor, and memorising safety lists for working on the table saw for years and ending up with all 10 fingers. And then eventually you make a beautiful timber box that people receive with great excitement, then they open it to see what is inside, it's empty, and they look at you surprised and you're like "ah, no, the gift is the actual box" ....."oh" LOL But, I've never met anybody who didn't want another leather bag

Life's too short for crap leather

I dunno, it depends what you're making really... Personally I find it a bad idea to try and cut costs, or use cheaper leather or even buy leather at sales. Because if you look at the cost of a bag for example, even if you use bridle leather, riri zippers, ritza thread, solid brass hardware and saphir cream, the total cost of materials is still small, almost negligible, compared to the main cost which is your specialised labour with your specialised tools. People here are skilled, and that comes with a cost. Ring a tiler or a carpenter or (God help us) plumber, and ask him to come to your house and make repairs 9-5 for 3 days straight, can you imagine what he'd charge you? A lot. And that's the cost of your labour for making a bag, no reason why it would it be any different. There are people out there who charge more than $2k USD for a normal, basic, but well made messenger bag, made from good materials. That is actually a fair price for a large, quality item hand made by a skilled person in a western country. If they skimped on materials it would make for an average to crappy bag, they'd have to drop their price by half or more, and for what? to save $100? It doesn't make any sense. I do suspect that a lot of leatherworkers severely undervalue themselves and the value of their labour. Leatherworking as a hobby.... Can it get expensive? Sure, it can. Get good at it, then get even better, then make something you'd really be proud to sell, and sell it. Do that once or twice a month and it should cover most if not all your costs. And use exactly the materials that you feel are appropriate for the look and feel and functionality of the thing you're making, not cheaper. I think that's a better philosophy than letting the price of materials determine the quality and/or aesthetic of what you're making. Or wasting time and energy trying to make use of scraps and offcuts that was never part of your plan. Now if you can find exactly the material you want at a lower price, sure, get it. But don't let whatever you're finding cheap determine what it is you're making, make the thing you want the way you want it. That's my 2c anyway, YMMV

it's more like stropping and polishing in leatherworking... leather is soft, you don't need actual sharpening very often like you would with woodworking chisels. But when you do get to sharpening you'll probably find it's not one skill as such, more a collection of jigs and stones and sandpaper grits. And videos That's why I'm always very hesitant to add new tools, especially weird shaped ones.

All those old tools look pretty cool and I get it, on the other hand I bought a cheap 6" splitter from ebay and that's also great, so... It's just a blade and a roller, there's not much to it. I find the main thing with all cutters is your sharpening skill. How do you guys sharpen a 6" blade? mine has a secondary bevel which makes it hard.

For thin leather you can try a spark plug :D

You can burnish with pretty much anything, a plastic lighter, a pen, anything with a hard and slick surface. All those timber/bone/bullhorn burnishers are just one more of those "for leatherworking" specialist items that don't really have a practical reason of existence. Other than workshop aesthetics maybe

Love the baseball stitch! Personally I'm not a fan of making the wheel too fat, it just doesnt feel right in my hands, but great execution anyway

Someone here misspelled it "Tokolove" and that's what I've been calling it since :D

Nice Putting the article and the photos together looks as much work as the restoration itself!