TomE

Sounds like a good experiment. Let us know how it turns out. The electric creases seem to be popular for fine leatherwork.

I crease a lot of 6-13 oz straps for tack using plain creasers that I heat with an alcohol lamp. Works well once you learn how much to heat the tool, and they fit well in the palm of my hand. The inexpensive WUTA creases are a favorite for 5/6 oz loop stock for making keepers/loops. For heavier leather, I like vintage creases that have a broader/more rounded profile. The electric creaser looks to me like a lot of tool to hold steady.

I bought a used bottom feed thinking it would be more versatile for thin, and occasional thick, leather. I've heard some grumbling on FB about the performance of the Cobra NP10 skiver for thin leather, but that could be operator error in setting up the machine. There are lots of rollers and feet available for bottom feed machines, maybe less so for the top-and-bottom feed machines? I remembered that I also posted my modifications in this forum.

I skive 9-12 oz leather with a Techsew SK4. I changed the feed roller and foot with parts from Campbell-Randall. I use it to thin the edges of straps to make swelled brow bands and nose bands on bridles. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CzMhBXgKb/?

Yes, it's a challenge to machine sew alongside a raised element on a narrow border. One solution is to trim to width after sewing, but this is problematic for a padded strap. I have an in-line pressor foot for my Class 4 that I bought from @CowboyBob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It works well but takes some practice, e.g. you have to back out of sharp turns in order to give the rear foot a place to land. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/15gmyLrtX1/ A narrow pressor foot set from @Patrick1 also does nicely. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BWLAmkrxV/ The standard left foot on a Class 26 wraps around the center foot and functions like an in-line pressor foot. I just let the left foot hang off the edge of the strap and the wrap-around part fits nicely against the raised element. Of course, the low tech solution is to sew by hand.

Very nice work! Lots of handsome details. A couple of questions/suggestions. The noseband buckle can rub on the jaw bone, depending on the hole in use so it's useful to pad underneath the buckle. Can either extend the noseband ~2" and sew the buckle on top, or you can include a flap of 6oz leather in the buckle turn, underneath the buckle. I would make the platform for the hook studs a little longer, increasing the spacing between the 2 fixed loops, in order to make it easier to open the billets when attaching a bit. The stitching around the raised element on the noseband is perhaps a bit far away from the edge of the strap. The loose edge of the padding might curl with wear. If needed, can modify the design using a wider filler strip for the raised element and sewing closer to the edge of the strap. Great to have another English bridle maker on this site. Let's continue to share notes. I am doing more repairs than new goods these days. It seems both activities are complementary. I learn new construction methods from the items I repair, and feel that making tack gives me a knowledge base to do better repairs and modifications.

After waxing the thread, pull it through some heavy brown paper to evenly distribute the wax.

Handsome, impressive craftsmanship as always. Lots of details that fit together perfectly.

The Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal online store has a number of books on Sheridan style carving. I liked reading this one https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product/sheridan-style-floral-drawing-gabor-pinter/.

Thanks for your reply. I have serveral of Steinke's books on saddlery, harness, and bridlework that have been very helpful. He is doing some saddlery work again and occasionally posts on Facebook and Youtube.

That looks like a base for a Chicago screw. Chicago screws are typically 1/8" diameter machine screws (not sure about the thread pitch) and readily available. Use thread locker or nail polish on the threads to secure it.

What? No cryptocurrency in your gambling theme? Very professional looking work. I like your use of color.

Thanks, Ron. I am on the steep end of the learning curve for western tack and appreciate your advice. That sounds like a time saver compared to my approach for finishing the edges.

I did not stretch the leather. I used the butt end of the hide for the billet/water loop rein end. The water loops are 7" long with #5 holes spaced 3/8" from each end and another hole 1/2" inboard from the first. The 1/4" strings are 12 in long and made from 6/7 oz latigo. I beveled the strings by clamping a straight edge on my bench to support the string and using an edger to bevel. Thanks, Bruce. I appreciate your vote of confidence.

Thank you. Resting my wrist today after all that burnishing. Thanks, as always. As best I can tell (I mainly dabble in English tack) most folks are happy with 7-8 ft. long split reins. If your side isn't long enough, can request a "rein selection" side that is a larger and without serious defects in the bend. I thought this thread was useful.

Why not plastic zippers with leather? I thought the nylon coil zippers function well on a curved contour. That is the most common zipper that I see in tall riding boots. I look forward to learning how you solve this. Your workmanship is first rate.

Not everything I make is black, it only seems like it. After making 3 black halters in the past month, I treated myself to some brown leather. These split reins are made from 12/13 oz Hermann Oak chocolate harness leather. 5/8" x 8 ft long. I dyed the edges and back with Fiebings Show Brown. The strings on the water loops are cut from HO latigo and beveled with a nice Ron's edger that I bought from @bruce johnson. Learned a lot about split reins by reading old posts on this forum. Think I will try making reins from latigo vs harness leather, sewn reins, and weighted reins. I welcome your ideas and feedback.

A Google search of this site (syntax: site leatherworker.net filligree) returns lots of results.

Wishing you well. Learned a lot from Stohlman's books on case making and leather tools. I use it as a foundation to judge advice from the experts on Youtube.

I buy most of my brass hardware for tack from Beiler's Manufacturing and Supply, and Batz Corp. Beiler's has good prices and service, and volume discounts, but no website. Call them for a catalog. Good quality from both vendors.

Bob Klenda wrote a series of articles about shaping a ground seat, published in the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. You can order back issues from the Journal or contact Bob with your specific questions. https://www.klendasaddlery.com/

I agree with @Handstitched that stitching is usually not the weak link. Most horse tack that I’ve repaired has broken where the leather wraps around hardware, or cheap hardware breaks. The stitching is in tact. That said, I don’t stitch across the width of a strap.

I don't know much about shoe making but I enjoyed reading this book by Harry Rogers https://www.amazon.com/MAKING-HANDMADE-SHOES-STEP-STEP/dp/B0BM57TF35.

As a retired biochemist, I think of chemicals as the molecules of life. Saw a Viktor George video recommending these acrylic-polyurethane topcoats as being more durable than resolene for a waterproof finish. https://lktopcoats.com/collections/lk-top-coats I know what you mean about dye rub off and beeswax. I sometimes seal edges with hot beeswax using a heated edge iron. When I buff the edges with canvas the dye rubs off on the canvas. It does seem that the hot wax solubilizes some of the dye. I usually go over the waxed edges with Tokonole to add a bit more shine and that seems to stop the rub off.

Not my idea. In his hand sewing book Stohlman shows notched plates made of plywood for stitching rounded leather. This has worked well for me. Can use the space inside the notch as a regular stitching horse clamp.