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Well this turned out kind of clunky, but it's the best I could come up with for this blade. My first sheath, for my niece the archeologist. She does underground imaging of old and new objects and sometimes bushwhacks her way to work. I sharpened the blade so she will also be ready for a zombie apocalypse.

The Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal's online store has books and DVDs(?) on various carving techniques.

Like the unique artwork. Very pretty. The edges could be more finished. Shaping the rounded corners on a drum or belt sander before edging, sharpening/stropping the edger to get a clean even bevel, a bit more burnishing work. Thanks for posting.

That's outstanding (may I say awesome?) work. Makes me think about taking up smoking. How did you cover the button? What is the cord made of and how did you dye it? Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. Just tedious work. All's well that ends well. I am told there's a robust market for replacing these zippers on boots costing $300-$500+. This one was learning/practice done for a friend. I think I'd charge $80 for the repair. About 1 hr per boot with the hand sewing. Not sure if a patcher could sew around the heel end of the zipper. I used a small cylinder arm machine to finish sewing the sides. Thanks, @Dwight. Another fellow pointed me to a strong adhesive basting tape sold by Wawak sewing supplies. It appears to be heavier tape than the double sided tape sold by office supplies. If it works it would be faster than glueing. Thanks, Ron. Yes, they scare me too. I think with the basting tape I mentioned above I might be able to place the closed zipper in the boot, avoiding wrinkles especially near the heel, then open the zipper to sew it in place.

Pit of despair. Sewing a zipper into the heel of a riding boot. First time installing a zipper. I welcome your tips and advice. My double stick tape didn't stick to the leather so I used a dab of Barge cement on the bottom and binder clips to hold the zipper for sewing. I hand sewed the zipper into the heel then used a machine for the rest.

Bob Klenda sells chaps patterns from his saddle shop. https://www.klendasaddlery.com/patterns.html I think I read that he recently has published a book on chaps making that he hopes will be used as a textbook in leathercraft classes.

Typically have to prove gross negligence to claim liability. Since she had a snow removal service treat her driveway she has a good case. We have guests sign a liability release that explains the risks when trying out a horse or pony on our property, but we are still liable for "gross negligence." We require a helmet, have our trainer present during the ride, etc.

Yes, my current protocol is to use light mineral oil and clean with dish washing liquid and a nylon brush as needed. Will try the dry run.

Thanks. It will be fun to experiment with this. OK, but now I've got to see for myself. Can't help it. - a retired scientist

Curious about using a dry Arkansas stone. Is there an advantage over oiling the stone? I thought the oil helps prevent clogging with debris. Thanks for the info.

No complaints. That's top drawer craftsmanship.

Nice work. The artwork and color are very attractive.

Thank you for these resources. Your website looks like a very interesting read. Will enjoy browsing through it later today.

Does togo leather have a "grippy" feel? Sort of like a gum eraser? A friend bought an $$$$ dressage saddle that has a matte finish and a soft, grippy feel. The saddle maker Erreplus says it is made from Italian bull leather (not to be confused with the Italian Stallion ) and that it will retain this grippy texture with use. I am interested in learning more about the tanning process for this leather. Sorry to highjack this post.

Harry Rogers' book on making shoes. Can buy it on Amazon. He also has a Youtube channel.

Sharp looking apron. I like your use of colors, and of course the tooling is beautiful.

My advice would be to focus on one or two projects using hand tools, develop the required skills, then buy machines as you decide what you enjoy making and have a specific use for a machine. For me it was a lot of hand sewing and learning to cut out shapes and cut straps then how to split and skive leather. I did a lot of hand skiving before I bought a used bell skiver. It is a luxury that I probably didn’t need but it helps me refine some aspects of my projects. For me, a good set of hand tools, a stitching horse, and a sewing machine are the main show. Someday I might resume carving and stamping but I wasn’t very good at it when I boxed up those tools as a teenager, so it would take a while to develop some proficiency. For now, I am happy cutting and sewing.

Incorrect. A bottom feed skiver can thin veg tan up to about 4-5 oz depending on skill and other specifics. I modified mine to skive the edges of 9-10oz bridle leather straps down to ~3 oz in a single pass. I posted a summary in the leather machine forum. I like my bottom feed machine because it’s just right for soft, thin leather but it can do heavier jobs with a bit of reconfiguring. Lots of feet and other parts available for the bottom feed machines, and there’s probably more demand for resale.

Check out stearic acid (long chain fatty acid) that is used to stiffen leather. I think you could apply it in one spot and heat the leather to absorb the SA. Jason Timmermans wrote an article "Custom Hardened Leather Arch Supports" in the July/August 2022 issue of Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. He also wrote about his "X1 hardening technique" in the Nov/Dec issue of 2019 (I don't have that issue). The Journal's online store sells back issues.

Congratulations to Gustav! I once saw a comment that Western saddle making is more like carpentry than leatherwork. I'd enjoy seeing the stallion halter and your rendition of it.

That's a beauty, @Mulesaw! Looks like the rolled throatlatch turned out nicely. I like the contrasting color on the thread.

I've managed to do fairly well skiving 9-10 oz straps with a bottom feed skiver by swapping the feed roller and using a roller foot as described in the post below. It now takes me ~5 min to swap the feed roller and set up for thin versus thick projects. Thanks again, @xnikolaos for the FAV AV1-AV2 manual. It has some useful information that I didn't receive with my used Techsew SK-4.

Can use splits as the filler for raised leather features. I use leftover splits to test blade sharpness and to mock up different construction methods.

I'm unclear how the straps attach to the sandals.to distribute the load. I use pure neatsfoot oil (Fiebings) and mostly Blackrock Leather N' Rich although I also like Fiebings Aussie conditioner and Bickmore Bick 4.