TomE

Thanks, I have tried both positions and don't see a great deal of difference. Since this point isn't covered in the sharpening videos or books I've seen, I thought I'd ask. Thanks @jcuk. I'll keep experimenting. I place an index finger on the guard to guide the leather and maintain consistency when doing long splits. Always looking for tips to advance my skills.

Thanks, @jcuk! That's the kind of details I was looking for. Lots of good suggestions to build my skills. I think I understand them all. I'll try sewing from the flesh/turn side instead, and angling the awl to catch the loop and pull it snug against the other end. Will update with results. Thanks for your reply, @Frodo. The basic problem is there's precious little space under a 3/8" strap to tuck in the ends of the keeper and catch the stitch lines when sewing the buckle turn. This throatlatch is the smallest strap on a bridle - the other straps are 5/8" and comparatively easy to assemble and stitch. One way to avoid this tedium is to use a center bar buckle and skip the fixed loop on the buckle turn. However, tradition prevails and I am determined to use the classic stamped steel bridle buckles that require a fixed loop with a running loop to secure the points. Thanks, @Dwight. I've seen running loops on adjustable nosebands that are secured with a heavy steel staple of sorts. Not sure where to buy these. Because this fixed loop is sewn into the buckle turn, I'd prefer to just sew it. For running loops, I enjoy making them with a single needle backstitch.

Thanks, Mike. Do you pre-awl several holes using the cork then pick up your needles and complete several stitches at a time? My question is whether using a tack is the best way to hold the keeper in place before sewing. I have trouble driving the tack straight into a narrow strap for the same reasons it's hard to sew. A 3/8" strap of 9 oz leather has a square-ish profile that tips easily when you push on the face.

I'm having trouble assembling a fixed loop on these 3/8 inch buckle turns prior to sewing (9 oz leather skived on the buckle end). There is little margin for error in positioning the loop ends so they are securely incorporated into the stitching. In short, they are "fiddly." I tack one end of the loop and sew across it then I tuck the other end in and angle the awl to sew the loop in place. I pre-punch 4-5 holes before inserting the loop then use the angled awl to punch the loop after its inserted. I am using #207 bonded nylon thread coated with beeswax and Osborne 20 ga. harness needles. Questions: Does anyone have a better (than tacking) method for securing the end of the fixed loop prior to sewing? How do you clamp/support a narrow strap when stitching? I modified a Weaver stitching horse for strapwork (picture). The aluminum plates are based on a Stohlman tip for sewing rounds. The notched plates work well for wider straps but the narrow 3/8 straps flex and twist when driving the awl, so the stitches aren't as pretty.

After sharpening a splitter blade do you align it at the top of the roller or a few millimeters behind the crown of the roller? The instructions for my Tandy Pro splitter (Asian knockoff of Osborne #84) says to place the blade edge 1/8 inch behind the crown of the roller. Seems to work but I am interested in the advice of more experienced users.

Download the Springfield Leather Catalog. It has an extensive description of how to choose leather for your projects. Also, they have some Youtube videos addressing leather quality, grades, etc. Hermann Oak tooling leather is my favorite because of its consistent substance. I buy sides and can use most of a side for straps to make tack.

That is a sharp looking bag. I am particularly impressed with the handles. I tried making a similar handle for my wife's briefcase and it turned out a bit lumpy and asymmetrical. I am buying time watching it break in, while procrastinating about making another. Mine was based on a pattern in Stohlman's Art of Making Leather Cases. He used a plywood form to shape after sewing but I don't have or want a band saw.

To remove the shuttle assembly, loosen the two black screws shown in your picture and gently pry off the retaining ring that the screws secure. Be ready to catch the shuttle and driver, which can fall out when the retaining ring is removed. In addition to cleaning and oiling the shuttle race, you can easily adjust the feed dog height with shuttle removed. This video from @Uwe shows why there is play in the shuttle assembly.

I would investigate the shuttle timing. My Class 4 was incorrectly timed and the walking foot mechanism was out of adjustment. I was experiencing needle strikes, missed stitches, etc. I recommend reviewing the DVD that ships with the Cobra machines then watching videos by @Uwe to learn how to adjust the shuttle timing, and the walking foot mechanism. Most of the tools needed for these adjustments are shipped with the Cobra Machines.

I made a firm paste from approximately 1 part beeswax, 3 parts carnauba wax (from Campbell Randall), and about 6 parts pure neatsfoot oil. I heated the waxes in a boiling water bath and added oil until I had a thick liquid. It took a while for the carnauba to dissolve. I use a finger to apply the paste to a dampened edge. Burnishing with Fiebings Aussie conditioner (applied with a canvas scrap then slicked) produces a similar glossy edge, and I am still evaluating whether or not the carnauba finish is more durable.

Here is the mark.

I had to run the die into the collar of the tube to finish the threads lower on the tube. By trial and error I found how far to cut threads so they bottom out with the tube squarely contacting the punch anvil. The tube is firmly seated on the finished threads at this position even though some partial threads are showing.

Use calipers to lightly scribe a tram line on either side of the mark for the hole. The lines bracket the center of the strap and are 1-2 mm outboard of the width of the punch. Roll the punch into position, lining up along the tram lines. Tap lightly and check the impression. Pound away!

The Osborne 84 splitter is a classic model. I have an Asian knock off that was previously sold by Tandy as their Pro model. It keeps an edge and came with a spare blade. I think most of these splitters require sharpening when new. The Campbell-Randall looks like a nice unit.

Really nice. The rolled straps are striking, and so is the belt like detail.

Those are some handsome projects! You already have a broad skill set. Keep up the good work.

I think a cart buckle is a generic term for a heavy center bar buckle with a round-ish profile. Bridle buckles are typically heel bar (e.g. stamped stainless steel) or center bar wire buckles in smaller sizes.

I've had good luck with Batz Corp for harness and tack hardware. I find it easier to shop from their PDF catalog then search the online store using a part number. Some of the heavy brass items are currently on backorder. These guys also look interesting https://www.harnesshardware.ca/ but I haven't set up an account with them yet.

Cotton web reins are constructed with leather end pieces. I use tacks to hold the pieces in place while hand sewing. Here's one example. https://www.sstack.com/premier-cotton-web-reins/p/10421/

I am a big fan of Aussie conditioner. After bad experiences with Tan Kote lifting pigment from dyed veg tan and staining my thread yellow, I've been using Aussie to finish tack and for burnishing edges before dying. A little Aussie on canvas followed by a slicker or burnishing wheel. I've had better luck with it than other treatments especially for some bridle leathers with coarse/fat fibers.

Good tip! I'll try the potato for the replacement tube that has the same problem with shallow threads.

Thanks, Bruce. Good information. My spring punch is about 5-6 years old, and the 00 replacement tube fit whereas the 0 tube in the same order had shallow threads. Following advice from @chuck123wapati I annealed the tube, cut in the threads with a 5/16-24 die, hardened and tempered the tube, then cleaned up the cutting edge and polished it. I had to punch some oiled leather to clean out the exit hole and now I have a working punch. Thanks to everyone for their input. It is a privilege to connect with so many experienced leatherworkers here.

Thanks @chuck123wapati! I'll watch the video after I feed some horses and report back on my results.

After spending much of 2021 improving the edge on my Osborne round knife, I have some ideas. The taper on the edge was too steep and I've removed a fair amount of material to achieve a ~20 deg angle. I used coarse stones, but the smart way would be to use a sanding belt to get the shape before sharpening. If you don't have a belt sander, I would ask a farrier or blacksmith or knife maker to help you out. After fixing the blade profile, I sharpened with water stones and stropped with a buffing wheel and by hand. The blade on my knife appears to be very hard and I am now happy with the edge. I also cut a bit off the end of the handle to fit my hand.

I purchased a couple of replacement tubes for an Osborne #153 spring punch, and one of them doesn't screw into the punch. The threads appear to be shallow and incompletely cut. I received a replacement tube with the same problem. While waiting for the vendor to resolve this with CS Osborne, I tried cutting threads on one of the tubes and the metal is hard and brittle (which I'll view as a good thing). Any advice about removing the temper, cutting threads, and hardening the tube would be appreciated. I don't own a forge but have an acetylene torch, oven, Zippo lighter, .... This is an experiment while waiting for Osborne to replace the defective tubes.