TomE

I purchased a couple of replacement tubes for an Osborne #153 spring punch, and one of them doesn't screw into the punch. The threads appear to be shallow and incompletely cut. I received a replacement tube with the same problem. While waiting for the vendor to resolve this with CS Osborne, I tried cutting threads on one of the tubes and the metal is hard and brittle (which I'll view as a good thing). Any advice about removing the temper, cutting threads, and hardening the tube would be appreciated. I don't own a forge but have an acetylene torch, oven, Zippo lighter, .... This is an experiment while waiting for Osborne to replace the defective tubes.

I bought a buffer for touching up hoof knives between sharpenings, and now use it for all kinds of leathercraft tools. Mine has a deburring wheel and a sewn cotton (stiff) buffing wheel. The extended shafts on this bench grinder make it easier to work on curved blades without interference. Farrier suppliers sell high quality machines and wheels. http://www.farrierproducts.com/shop/tools/buffers-and-grinders/baldor-1-4hp-buffer-red/p/1375

Thanks, Jonas. The PS of Sweden bridles are inspirational. I had not seen this brand. Will check out the PetHardware site.

Received the narrow feed dog and plate today, and can second that they fit the Cobra Class 4 machine beautifully. So much easier to sew close to an edge. I am now determined to sew bridles with narrow padded straps and swells on the machine instead of by hand. Time for experimentation.

Sounds like you have a fun niche with the stallion station. Where do you buy hardware for tack and blankets? I've been happy with Batz Corp for heavy brass hardware, which is back ordered these days. I am still looking for a supplier of stainless steel bridle buckles, particularly sturdy center bar buckles in 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch sizes. Weaver and Batz sell stamped heel bar bridle buckles but I am trying to match fancier varieties on European made tack. We call the mare restraints "hobbles." We also avoid live cover as a safety issue. Merry Christmas to you as well.

That's an impressive undertaking, @Mulesaw! Good looking repairs. Lots of bobbin reloads I would imagine. Our phantom is covered with canvas and has a trap door at the rear for a Colorado style AV. I wonder if the fender on yours is a clever modification to safely replace the receptacle for a fixed AV. Maybe your next project will be stallion leads with a stud chain, or a custom leather sling for a hand held AV (Missouri style AV).

I know nothing about holsters, except that is pretty work. I've had problems with rolled straps rolling under the presser foot and causing needle strikes. I now leave about 3/4" of filler strip exposed and tack a leather piece under the exposed filler to shim it. After sewing, I trim the filler flush and finish shaping the piece in a rein rounder. Would it help to use a wider welt and trim it later?

Wish I had your skill. Hard to stop looking at that lovely design.

Can also experiment with dying leather that is dry or wet. I think misting the grain side with water can help with uniform absorption of the Pro Dye if you're not completely saturating the leather with dye. I have experimented with mixtures of Pro Dye and Fiebings "100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil," which turned out fine but I am usually aiming for dark colors of English tack using undiluted dyes. I used to burnish edges after dying but now I typically burnish with water and saddle soap before dying. It's easier to apply dye evenly to a smooth burnished edge, which matters if the edge color contrasts with the face of the piece.

Very pretty. Good work. Might consider a smooth leather liner for dog collars that is easier to clean and waterproof. Also consider stitching the buckle turn, which will be stronger and more secure than snaps or rivets.

I’m using Hermann Oak bridle leather for tack. I finish with a light coat of Aussie conditioner applied with my fingers, let it absorb overnight, and buff with a soft cloth. I’ve seen the bubbling when casing leather for wet forming straps around hardware. It disappears once the leather is uniformly wet or dry.

I don’t have a problem with thread tension when transitioning from 2 to 3 layers of 7-10 oz leather when sewing tack on a Cobra. Pretty much anything from 9-25 oz looks good to me with my tension setting. This video was very helpful for dialing in the timing on a 441 clone. The author is on the sewing machine forum here.

Nice work! Would a double back fleece lined pad help distribute the pressure on his withers? Might have to modify a pad that fits him. https://www.ridingwarehouse.com/PRI_Double_Back_Padded_Quilted_Dressage_Saddle_Pad/descpage-PDPDP.html?from=gshop&gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p6_q-xnvIr2Xt7rNxNqKgOdMI_ngTrGMEb4D7V3HAx_DvJYekVqsyRoC2YoQAvD_BwE

Deglazer is fine for the grain or flesh side, even recently dyed leather. It will remove some of the waxy finish from bridle leather so I use it sparingly (can instead remove dried cement from waxy surfaces with a plastic or crepe eraser). I finish my tack with Fiebings Aussie conditioner which contains wax and fixes any dull spots caused by Deglazer. Yes, good quality leather is way easier to skive. I think it corresponds to a higher fat content in the tanning process. Moistening the flesh side can help when skiving low quality leather.

I buy half hides of Hermann Oak tooling leather and bridle leather from Springfield Leather. I've never been disappointed with the quality. The different grades of HO veg tan refer to how many blemishes are in the leather, the tanning is all high quality, but you have to work around more defects in the lower grade leather. You can specify which piece of the cow you want. The Springfield Leather PDF catalog has a fairly lengthy description of how to select leather for your projects, and you can call them with questions. I don't routinely clean my leather, but I use Deglazer to remove any excess Barge cement when I'm assembling prior to sewing. I do have some import hides that are difficult to cut and skive, and don't take dye evenly.

Nice work! Inconsistent absorption of dye or oil can be caused by an inferior tanning process or surface contaminants. The cure for the former is to buy more costly leather that typically has a tighter and uniform fiber structure. My favorite is Hermann Oak. If you can visit your supplier then you can feel the substance of the leather and get a feel of the inconsistancies. Many imported hides are bleached and dry (sometimes with splotches) so they don't take up water, oil, dye consistently. Springfield Leather Co has a Youtube video on selecting veg tan leather that addresses this. For surface contamination, you can try removing with Fiebing's Deglazer. Al Stohlman mentions using oxalic acid to clean skin oil and dirt before applying a finish after letting it dry completely. 1 teaspoon oxalic acid per quart of water. I haven't tried it.

Thank you! I debate about the clip, and see it both ways on purchased tack. She who must be obeyed likes it turned in, and says it won't catch on hay nets, etc. when they scratch an itch.

Halter with padded crown and nose band, and a rolled throat strap. Hermann Oak bridle leather in havana. Supply chain has me waiting for more heavy brass hardware, so I guess I'll learn something new.

Stohlman’s “Belts Galore” booklet has lots of patterns and construction tips for ranger and other belts.

I requested a price quote several weeks ago (shipping to Missouri) through your email address on the Wild Harry website. What is the best way to contact you? I would like to try the plate and feed dog on a Cobra Class 4.

I learned about making padded straps watching YouTube videos from JH Leather on padded dog collars. I use 1/8" neoprene padding and shape 2-3 oz leather around the pad before sewing the pad to the leather top piece. I am repairing a padded bridle similar to the one in your post. I made a pattern and cut the crown piece out of 7-8 oz leather using a round knife. On this Anteres bridle, the points for the throatlatch are sewn to the crown piece. The points have squares of leather, skived to a thin edge, that are inserted between the crown piece and the paddding. I will be stitching this bridle by hand, but I use a machine for padded halters. When I get more time for leatherwork I will post some photos.

Thanks for the interesting discussion. The Stohlman Encyclopedia of Saddle Making is a fun read and the construction methods are generally informative, even though I don't plan to build a saddle. Stohlman's "Art of Making Leather Cases" (Vol 1-3) is another great resource for constructing sturdy leather items. @Mulesaw let me know if you have trouble finding the Saddle Making Encyclopedia. It was in stock at the Springfield Leather Co store a few months ago when I visited.

Love what the Thoroughbred adds to Warmblood horses. We use a local Holsteiner stallion for some breedings. https://www.facebook.com/maefieldfarm/photos/pcb.3269782936422467/3269757966424964/ Had good weather in Bergen. I think it was late June.

Enjoyed seeing your work and horse. Nice stitching, especially free handing it! That's a big horse. Is he an eventer, jumper, both? What is his breeding? I spent a few days in Bergen about 15 yrs ago during a layover before a scientific conference. Enjoyed the sights and hiking in the hills around the funicular.

Those straps are a work of art! I like Hermann Oak for making tack - tight fibers and nice finish are consistent from hide to hide. Dr. Google says "bouche pores" is wood grain filler in English. You're using it as a resist for the finish?