TomE

Cotton web reins are constructed with leather end pieces. I use tacks to hold the pieces in place while hand sewing. Here's one example. https://www.sstack.com/premier-cotton-web-reins/p/10421/

I am a big fan of Aussie conditioner. After bad experiences with Tan Kote lifting pigment from dyed veg tan and staining my thread yellow, I've been using Aussie to finish tack and for burnishing edges before dying. A little Aussie on canvas followed by a slicker or burnishing wheel. I've had better luck with it than other treatments especially for some bridle leathers with coarse/fat fibers.

Good tip! I'll try the potato for the replacement tube that has the same problem with shallow threads.

Thanks, Bruce. Good information. My spring punch is about 5-6 years old, and the 00 replacement tube fit whereas the 0 tube in the same order had shallow threads. Following advice from @chuck123wapati I annealed the tube, cut in the threads with a 5/16-24 die, hardened and tempered the tube, then cleaned up the cutting edge and polished it. I had to punch some oiled leather to clean out the exit hole and now I have a working punch. Thanks to everyone for their input. It is a privilege to connect with so many experienced leatherworkers here.

Thanks @chuck123wapati! I'll watch the video after I feed some horses and report back on my results.

After spending much of 2021 improving the edge on my Osborne round knife, I have some ideas. The taper on the edge was too steep and I've removed a fair amount of material to achieve a ~20 deg angle. I used coarse stones, but the smart way would be to use a sanding belt to get the shape before sharpening. If you don't have a belt sander, I would ask a farrier or blacksmith or knife maker to help you out. After fixing the blade profile, I sharpened with water stones and stropped with a buffing wheel and by hand. The blade on my knife appears to be very hard and I am now happy with the edge. I also cut a bit off the end of the handle to fit my hand.

I purchased a couple of replacement tubes for an Osborne #153 spring punch, and one of them doesn't screw into the punch. The threads appear to be shallow and incompletely cut. I received a replacement tube with the same problem. While waiting for the vendor to resolve this with CS Osborne, I tried cutting threads on one of the tubes and the metal is hard and brittle (which I'll view as a good thing). Any advice about removing the temper, cutting threads, and hardening the tube would be appreciated. I don't own a forge but have an acetylene torch, oven, Zippo lighter, .... This is an experiment while waiting for Osborne to replace the defective tubes.

I bought a buffer for touching up hoof knives between sharpenings, and now use it for all kinds of leathercraft tools. Mine has a deburring wheel and a sewn cotton (stiff) buffing wheel. The extended shafts on this bench grinder make it easier to work on curved blades without interference. Farrier suppliers sell high quality machines and wheels. http://www.farrierproducts.com/shop/tools/buffers-and-grinders/baldor-1-4hp-buffer-red/p/1375

Thanks, Jonas. The PS of Sweden bridles are inspirational. I had not seen this brand. Will check out the PetHardware site.

Received the narrow feed dog and plate today, and can second that they fit the Cobra Class 4 machine beautifully. So much easier to sew close to an edge. I am now determined to sew bridles with narrow padded straps and swells on the machine instead of by hand. Time for experimentation.

Sounds like you have a fun niche with the stallion station. Where do you buy hardware for tack and blankets? I've been happy with Batz Corp for heavy brass hardware, which is back ordered these days. I am still looking for a supplier of stainless steel bridle buckles, particularly sturdy center bar buckles in 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch sizes. Weaver and Batz sell stamped heel bar bridle buckles but I am trying to match fancier varieties on European made tack. We call the mare restraints "hobbles." We also avoid live cover as a safety issue. Merry Christmas to you as well.

That's an impressive undertaking, @Mulesaw! Good looking repairs. Lots of bobbin reloads I would imagine. Our phantom is covered with canvas and has a trap door at the rear for a Colorado style AV. I wonder if the fender on yours is a clever modification to safely replace the receptacle for a fixed AV. Maybe your next project will be stallion leads with a stud chain, or a custom leather sling for a hand held AV (Missouri style AV).

I know nothing about holsters, except that is pretty work. I've had problems with rolled straps rolling under the presser foot and causing needle strikes. I now leave about 3/4" of filler strip exposed and tack a leather piece under the exposed filler to shim it. After sewing, I trim the filler flush and finish shaping the piece in a rein rounder. Would it help to use a wider welt and trim it later?

Wish I had your skill. Hard to stop looking at that lovely design.

Can also experiment with dying leather that is dry or wet. I think misting the grain side with water can help with uniform absorption of the Pro Dye if you're not completely saturating the leather with dye. I have experimented with mixtures of Pro Dye and Fiebings "100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil," which turned out fine but I am usually aiming for dark colors of English tack using undiluted dyes. I used to burnish edges after dying but now I typically burnish with water and saddle soap before dying. It's easier to apply dye evenly to a smooth burnished edge, which matters if the edge color contrasts with the face of the piece.

Very pretty. Good work. Might consider a smooth leather liner for dog collars that is easier to clean and waterproof. Also consider stitching the buckle turn, which will be stronger and more secure than snaps or rivets.

I’m using Hermann Oak bridle leather for tack. I finish with a light coat of Aussie conditioner applied with my fingers, let it absorb overnight, and buff with a soft cloth. I’ve seen the bubbling when casing leather for wet forming straps around hardware. It disappears once the leather is uniformly wet or dry.

I don’t have a problem with thread tension when transitioning from 2 to 3 layers of 7-10 oz leather when sewing tack on a Cobra. Pretty much anything from 9-25 oz looks good to me with my tension setting. This video was very helpful for dialing in the timing on a 441 clone. The author is on the sewing machine forum here.

Nice work! Would a double back fleece lined pad help distribute the pressure on his withers? Might have to modify a pad that fits him. https://www.ridingwarehouse.com/PRI_Double_Back_Padded_Quilted_Dressage_Saddle_Pad/descpage-PDPDP.html?from=gshop&gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p6_q-xnvIr2Xt7rNxNqKgOdMI_ngTrGMEb4D7V3HAx_DvJYekVqsyRoC2YoQAvD_BwE

Deglazer is fine for the grain or flesh side, even recently dyed leather. It will remove some of the waxy finish from bridle leather so I use it sparingly (can instead remove dried cement from waxy surfaces with a plastic or crepe eraser). I finish my tack with Fiebings Aussie conditioner which contains wax and fixes any dull spots caused by Deglazer. Yes, good quality leather is way easier to skive. I think it corresponds to a higher fat content in the tanning process. Moistening the flesh side can help when skiving low quality leather.

I buy half hides of Hermann Oak tooling leather and bridle leather from Springfield Leather. I've never been disappointed with the quality. The different grades of HO veg tan refer to how many blemishes are in the leather, the tanning is all high quality, but you have to work around more defects in the lower grade leather. You can specify which piece of the cow you want. The Springfield Leather PDF catalog has a fairly lengthy description of how to select leather for your projects, and you can call them with questions. I don't routinely clean my leather, but I use Deglazer to remove any excess Barge cement when I'm assembling prior to sewing. I do have some import hides that are difficult to cut and skive, and don't take dye evenly.

Nice work! Inconsistent absorption of dye or oil can be caused by an inferior tanning process or surface contaminants. The cure for the former is to buy more costly leather that typically has a tighter and uniform fiber structure. My favorite is Hermann Oak. If you can visit your supplier then you can feel the substance of the leather and get a feel of the inconsistancies. Many imported hides are bleached and dry (sometimes with splotches) so they don't take up water, oil, dye consistently. Springfield Leather Co has a Youtube video on selecting veg tan leather that addresses this. For surface contamination, you can try removing with Fiebing's Deglazer. Al Stohlman mentions using oxalic acid to clean skin oil and dirt before applying a finish after letting it dry completely. 1 teaspoon oxalic acid per quart of water. I haven't tried it.

Thank you! I debate about the clip, and see it both ways on purchased tack. She who must be obeyed likes it turned in, and says it won't catch on hay nets, etc. when they scratch an itch.

Halter with padded crown and nose band, and a rolled throat strap. Hermann Oak bridle leather in havana. Supply chain has me waiting for more heavy brass hardware, so I guess I'll learn something new.

Stohlman’s “Belts Galore” booklet has lots of patterns and construction tips for ranger and other belts.