TomE

That's a handsome bag! Really like the handle and choice of leather. Old school is timeless.

I backstitch 3 stitches when sewing halters, whether by hand or by machine. When halters break (as they should if a horse pulls hard enough) it's usually the leather that tears at a turn or a hole in the crown piece.

Sounds good. Look forward to seeing it. Stohlman describes a number of ways to attach handles and straps in volume 2 of his case making books.

Another idea is to change the construction and run the tab ends through an oblong (crew punch) hole and sew/rivet in place with a decorative stitch on the outside of the bag. Would use a plain strap from same leather as the bag. This construction is stronger than a surface mounted tab for the Dee ring.

Stohlman's book on leathercraft tools explains how to use and sharpen these tools. One aspect of the choice is using a disposable blade versus spending time and money on sharpening equipment.

Osborne makes left and right handed versions. The thimble is covered with a metal honeycomb that holds the eye of the needle securely. https://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/products/c-s-osborne-sewing-palm-266-rh-for-right-hand-made-in-usa?variant=32878000013365 The palm works pretty well but it's faster to grab a pair of pliers, which work in either hand.

Coating thread with beeswax then smoothing the wax between your fingers will make your fingers slightly tacky and improve the grip. The wax coats the needles after a few stitches and also helps. I think the Osborne harness needles have a proportionately smaller eye.

Thanks once again, @jcuk. I greatly appreciate the education. Is the chrome tanned strap stronger than veg tanned? We have some nicer (that is, more expensive) saddles that appear to have veg tanned girth straps.

I've seen white girth straps like this on several old saddles. They don't look like veg tanned leather - more like chrome tanned. Does anybody know what they're made of? Since the straps were stretched and looking worn, I replaced them. I dropped the front of the panel to gain access to the girth straps. The points of the tree were removed from pockets in the panel. I cut new straps from a HO bend, and sewed them on the webs using 1mm polyester thread, doubled up, with a single needle backstitch. The front of the panel was reattached with a pop stitch through the existing holes.

I haven't worked with ferrules but here's a link showing crimped ferrules on round cheek pieces for 5/8 inch hardware https://www.ranch2arena.com/products/041320-round-leather-with-ferrules-installed. For width of the round, Steinke ("Bridlework A Step-by-step Guide") starts with a 3/4 inch strap to make a round to fit 1/2 buckles. The strap is thinned where the round will be formed. He sews the cover around a piece of flexible, rubber coated multistrand wire. I use 1-1/4 inch straps to make rounded halter throat latches for 1 inch or 3/4 inch snaps. I split the cover to 7 oz thickness and wrap it around a 9 oz leather filler. The rounds end up being 1/2 - 5/8 inch diameter after shaping in a rein rounder. After rounding I trim the width of the ends to fit the hardware. I based my rounds on the descriptions of rounded leather handles in volume 2 of Al Stohlman's Case Making books.

I assume you follow the usual practices to minimize dye ruboff. Fiebings Pro Dye and Fenice Colorfast dye produce less ruboff than other dyes I've tried. Prior to sewing, buff the work with a soft cloth until there's no more dye rubbing off. I quit using Tan Kote as a finish after sewing because it works like a dye solvent and discolors even bonded nylon thread. Then there's the failsafe - use dark colored thread.

Not sure how I missed this post, but wanted to say it's a beautiful piece of work! Really like the look of the leather, and the stitching is spot on. Do you have a clamp onboard to hold your work as you sew? Hope that Bent approves.

This flexible, water-based adhesive is designed to finish the flesh side of leather. I use it for bridle parts made of a single layer of 9-10 oz bridle leather, including bridle leather with a pasted or moss-back. I apply it diluted 50:50 with water and work it into the fibers with a glass slicker. After the first coat dries, I apply a second coat and smooth it over with a paper towel. The adhesive penetrates several millimeters into the leather. If you build several coats it will repel water and neatsfoot oil. I am evaluating how well it holds up with tack but so far I am pleased with the results.

@Mulesaw I recently discovered the book "Saddlery and Harness-Making" by Paul Hasluck. It is a reprint of 2 volumes originally published in 1904 and available in hardback and paperback editions from used book sellers. The book has considerable detail about tools, materials, and instructions for making saddles, various pieces of bridlework, and harness. There are many illustrations. The book doesn't fill all the gaps in my understanding of the subject, but I am learning a great deal about the why and how of saddlery. It's a fun read.

He is a warmblood bred for dressage. He's a bit of a spitfire at this stage of his life. The Caspian horses are less than 13 hands and bred as children's hunter ponies. The remainder of this year's foals will be warmbloods bred for jumping.

@Mulesaw here's the colt born this month.

That's a beauty! Wish it was coming my way. I really like the colors and detail on the sheath.

@Mulesaw if you're on Facebook see our Maefield Farm page or my personal page (Tom Ellenberger). I can post here if you don't do FB.

Nice! It is foaling season for us. One colt born 3 weeks ago and 3 more foals expected in May.

How fun is that? Perfect!

Wow! Congratulations on 2 passages. That must be incredible. My only journey today is walking from the house to the barn -3 times.

I like tracing from a printed page as you're doing. I don't cut out the pattern. Just sketch over the printed pattern on lightly cased leather then clean up the lines with a pen or pencil before cutting. I usually do a bit of shaping with a drum sander to fix my mistakes.

Campbell Randall sells Colorfast dye. Springfield Leather sells Fenice Diamond Water Stain (?) that looks like a similar product. They have a Youtube video about it.

I have the best results burnishing bridle leather using canvas and saddle soap. I made a canvas sleeve for the sanding drum on my burnisher. For tack, I dye the edges with Fiebings Pro Dye or Fenice Colorfast dye. The Colorfast dye has "waxes and binders" that produce a reasonably shiny edge as seen in this dog collar.

That's some nice machining. You must have quite a shop. Does it work for alcohol based dyes?