TomE

Turned out great! Maybe a farrier's apron is in your future?

Thanks so much for explaining this adjustment. I've learned so much from this thread and forum about using and maintaining my 441 clone. Much appreciated.

I would ask those who make watch straps and wallets. My exprience is limited to heavier leathers mostly heating the creaser with an alcohol lamp. It has a different feel on cased leather so I would experiment. Another modification I've seen is shortening the creaser relative to the guide (or reversing them to make a left handed tool) to help it rest on the edge. If yours is difficult to hold on a beveled edge you could consider that modification.

I think the sizes refer to distance from the edge. You can make the crease line thicker or thinner by shaping and polishing the tool. For a crease line less than 1/8 in from the edge (using the Osborne #21 size 3), I have better luck creasing before beveling the edge with a small beveler. You can do it however you like.

I have an Osborne #21 size 3 creaser. IMO it needed some reshaping when new to work properly, like all Osborne tools. The creasing edge was sharp and cut into the grain. The outside flange had machining marks that caused it to drag on the edge of the leather. I used a round Arkansas stone slip covered with wet/dry paper and a buffing wheel to get it into shape. I like the Osborne tools but they require some attention to work properly. I really like the Vergez-Blanchard screw crease right out of the box, but I am creasing 8-10 oz leather for tack.

That combination generally works for me with 2-3 layers of 9-10oz HO bridle. Also check for a burr on your needle, and that your foot movement and timing are correct.

Happy with Osborne round knives, but you'll have to sharpen them. #70, #71, #73 An alternative to a stitch groover is a scratch compass. Osborne #34 or this one, which must be very nice https://www.ranch2arena.com/collections/horse-shoe-brand-tools/scratch-compass#MainContent Have you tried sharpening your current groovers? Can cut a groove in heavy leather, fill it with jewelers rouge, and strop the blade. It's possible there's a burr inside the hole. Can use a welding torch reamer to lightly dress inside, stroking from the back towards the front (sharp) edge so you don't round the cutting edge. I rarely cut a groove for stitch lines. You're removing the strongest part of the leather.

I thought you asked about embossing a line on a strap, and a creaser would be my choice. It can be argued (has been argued on this forum) that you should not cut a groove for stitches unless abrasion is truely going to be a problem. You're removing the strongest part of the leather on a strap that typically is under tension. Here is another perspective on working with straps

Now I understand! But easier on shoulders than building fence.

Yes, the 145 has the same chuck as the other hafts I listed and it "holds all Osborne awls." It's as good as any of them. You're correct about the definition of haft and awl. If you're new to sharpening an awl, I follow Al Stohlman's method and stroke on a stone or wet/dry paper moving back and forth parallel to the long axis of the awl. Need to watch carefully that you keep each of the four faces flat on the sharpener. I strop on the grain side of heavy veg tan coated with green jeweler's rouge. For stropping, I draw the blade towards me and move slightly sideways away from the cutting edge. You will end up with a diamond profile that has 2 cutting edges and 2 obtuse noncutting edges. Takes time but once you have a really sharp awl it will be a pleasure to use.

Check out the CS Osborne description of haft #141. "Hardwood handle. Clear lacquer finish. Brass chuck designed to hold thinner awls or larger needles. Knurled chuck makes it easy to tighten manually." I use the same awl shown above with their hafts #142 and #144 for sewing up to about 16 oz of leather. I like the peg awl haft #143 for heavier projects. In addition to sharpening the Osborne awls you might like to reshape the point slightly with a gradual taper - more pointy.

Those are very good looking boots. I imagine most clients will be familiar with velcro closures and can tell you if they want more. Extending the tab and adding a snap could be an option. Might also consider padding around the top of the boot. The coronary band (hairline at top of hoof) is sensitive tissue that produces new hoof. When bandaging a leg we take care to pad around the coronary band to avoid irritation.

Very pretty. I'd second the idea of using smooth leather for the bottom trim. If the horse is tacked up and placed in a stall between jumping rounds there will be shavings, liquid, etc sticking to the fabric. Also, I wonder if the velcro closure will be enough. Might test this with the prototype and reinforce with buckle(s) if needed. Bell boots protect the front heels from interference (contact) by the back toes as the horse tracks up. If the horse really needs boots they will give that closure a workout.

So it depends on the type of leather. Bridle leathers typically have a "moss-back" a.k.a. pasted back that is smooth and dense. The fibers on the flesh side are essentially glued together with a flexible resin. A finisher from Hermann Oak Leather Co told me the terminology moss-back or mossed comes from the outdated process of making a glue-like substance by boiling peat moss. There are commercial products to create this type of sealed surface on the flesh side but they come in industrial size quantities. https://leatherchemicals.co.uk/product/unisol-moss-back/ https://campbell-randall.com/product/sup-bt639-g-leather-finish-for-sealing-flesh-side-moss-back-suede-1-gal You can search these forums to find threads about sealing the flesh side with waxes, gum trag, and other potions. Some folks use a heavy glass slicker to finish the flesh side. Or, you can leave it alone.

That's a great legacy. Would love to see your book collection. This publisher produced some gems about tack and harness making. https://www.museumofthehorse.org/j-a-allen-the-horsemans-booksho/

In defense of using an awl and stitching horse, I don't see a way to punch through 2-3 layers of 9 oz veg tan without leaving an unsightly hole. I doubt it's faster to prepunch the holes since most of the time is spent pulling up the stitches and (re)positioning the work. I'd also say that Stohlman's books on sewing and case making are arguably better than most instructional videos.

I’ve been pleased with SLC customer service, in store and for online orders. They just missed on checking my machine. Learning how to maintain tools is a fulfilling part of the craft for me. The sewing machine expertise and generosity found on this forum is a treasure.

Now that my machine is dialed in, I'm glad I learned more about the mechanics can make adjustments. I tinker with the walking foot movement whenever I switch to an in-line presser foot set. The narrow feed dog and needle plate is an improvement but I filed the underneath edge of the needle plate slot to eliminate slight interference with the arm of the feed dog. It's like maintaining a car from British Leyland. Always tinkering.

That’s how they are designed to keep the leather edge against the fence. The blade is fixed in one orientation.

So I'm 3.5 hrs away from SLC and picked up a Cobra 4 from them last year. They have several machines in their showroom and a young holster maker walked me through setting up the machine then I spent 20 min sewing before heading home. That said, I had to adjust the shuttle timing and the walking foot movement on my machine before it would sew properly. So much for checking out the machines before they go out the door. I'll view it as a learning opportunity and thank my teachers on this forum. SLC did swap out the Leather Machine Co name plate on my machine for one that says "Cobra Class 4. Serviced by SLC and Leather Machine Co." Nice touch.

Each piece is uniquely a show stopper! Thanks for sharing.

@mike1967 I’m still working on it. More sharpening and polishing the blade surface that squeezes the strap did decrease the effort needed. Also, pushing squarely in the direction of the cut helps. But there’s still room for improvement especially with narrow straps. I’ll keep experimenting and post if I have a breakthrough.

This looks close but you'll probably have to shoot it through a gun. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-chrysler-omaha-orange-3-1-ssu-96oz-kit.html Eastwood is a good source of automotive body tools and finishes for DIYers. They might be able to package this product or an enamel paint in a spray can.

Osborne makes one like that. It will turn smooth grain into seude fairly quickly. Good for gluing items that are cased or otherwise difficult to hold together before sewing.

Interested in learning more about flexible sealants for tack. I've had issues with Tan Kote discoloring the thread on stained items. Maybe I should apply it before sewing? Does anyone have experience with the Fenice water based Top Coat finishes? https://campbell-randall.com/product/ar6450t-clear-matt-plus-top-coat-1-liter I've been impressed with Fenice Colorfast Dye as an edge finish that burnishes nicely.