TomE

If you search the leather sewing machines forum for "inline presser foot" and "paddle foot." you'll see some options for sewing next to a raised piece. I don't know the available options for your machine. I use the inline presser foot for the Cowboy 4500 on my Cobra Class 4 machine. It requires about 3/16" of edge allowance to operate. If you have the option you can trim the edge after sewing. In tighter spaces I sew by hand.

I learned more from those books than from watching many Youtube instructional videos. Lots of construction tips that apply to many types of projects. Stohlman’s book on Leathercraft Tools is another worthwhile read. I think @Dwight is referring to what I learned as a single needle backstitch. JH Leather has a video on making a running loop that shows the process.

Time to buy "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and learn a new skill. This task is similar to repairing tack - fixing broken stitches by hand.

From Stohlman's The Art of Making Leather Cases Vol. 2.

Yes, you could get something useful for that price like a side of leather.

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-3041/leather-thickness-gauge/pr_8768

Bottom scale is ounces. https://www.springfieldleather.com/SLC-Plastic-Leather-Gauge

I just received the book from a seller in the U.K. I’m enjoying the learning. Maybe I’ll be able to do a repair someday. For skiving, I’m using an Osborn #67 knife with a rounded blade. I also like using a round knife but mine is big and the points get in the way of holding on to the strap. Guess I need a half round knife.

Yes, thanks so much @jcuk. I’m also making good progress on sewing fixed loops in the 3/8 in straps - using your tips, and I bought some smaller tacks to assemble the work before sewing. Got distracted by the endless variations of nose bands, and learning to skive to make swelled nose bands. Should have my first bridle finished soon.

In the book "To Handmake a Saddle" JHL Shields mentions covering the springs of the tree with "basil," which according to Wikipedia is radoul tanned leather. Does anyone know if this leather is still available or what a modern equivalent (weight? tannage?) would be? He is describing the build of an English saddle.

Mike Graham, owner of Ruxton's Trading Post (Manitou Springs CO), is an expert appraiser of collectable/historic saddles. He was a regular contributor to Western Horseman when we subscribed.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/19121-casing-leather/

https://vergez-blanchard.fr/en/saddlers-cutters-and-round-knives/2051-adjustable-edge-creaser-boxwood-handle.html

There are few quail left in MO as well. Small farms becoming subdivisions. Makes my day when I see a meadowlark. Look forward to seeing your project.

Meadowlark is a favorite. Distinctive song from solitary bird pearched along the edge of a pasture.

With the in-line presser feet, I back out of the corners for a few stitches then switch to forward stitching. This gives the rear foot a place to set down when moving away from a corner.

I had the same problem when I began sewing halters. I am wet forming 2-3 layers of 10-12 oz leather around the hardware and there's a steep change in thickness that the presser foot has trouble climbing. @rdl123 gave me a tip that I've used on every halter since. Begin sewing 4 holes away from the hardware and leave long tails on the threads. Back stitch by hand up to the hardware. In your case, you can sew the beginning and the end of the stitch line by hand. Will make the job look neat and keep the hardware snug so there's less wear on the leather. Also, I don't think it's necessary to stitch across the width of the strap. According to Stohlman, the stitches should run lengthwise along the strap for the strongest construction.

Mike Graham, the owner of Ruxton’s Trading Post in Manitou Springs, Colorado does saddle evaluations for The Western Horseman magazine. He and his wife, Gretchen, specialize in collectible pieces of Western Americana. The couple wrote the book Old Cowboy Saddles and Spurs, Identifying The Craftsmen Who Made Them.

Did not know about RJF leather. I've been using HO bridle and been pleased with the consistency and finish of the grain. The flesh side has this pastey thing going on that I'm not thrilled with. Doesn't affect halters made of 2-3 layers, but I'm starting to make bridles and not thrilled with having that junk on the back side of cheek pieces and throat straps. Maybe there's a better way to finish it with a slicker. How does the RJF bridle leather compare to W&C or HO?

Another help for old eyes is a headlamp and/or a LED light like this one. https://leathermachineco.com/product/lda-1-led-magnetic-light/

Spray with Kroil Oil. Wait. Tap on the roller with a plastic mallet. Repeat as needed. Patience is the secret for restoring vintage autos. Can make penetrating oil in larger quantities from a mixture of hydraulic oil and automatic transmission fluid.

Agree with @Charley1. Molten lead can be worked with safely provided you take precautions (eye protection, gloves, ventilation). Cast iron waste pipes are joined with lead seals. Plumbing supplies carry the materials. Lead is cheap.

Ditto for my Cobra Class 4. The narrow plate and feed dog handle the heavy and light leather projects without a lot of fiddling. @Doc Reaper do you have any uses for the original plate/feed dog now that you're using the narrow setup?

Thanks, @tsunkasapa. That would be a simpler setup. With the narrow strap I'd be stitching over the cross stitch, which might weaken the loop.

Thanks, I have tried both positions and don't see a great deal of difference. Since this point isn't covered in the sharpening videos or books I've seen, I thought I'd ask. Thanks @jcuk. I'll keep experimenting. I place an index finger on the guard to guide the leather and maintain consistency when doing long splits. Always looking for tips to advance my skills.