DieselTech

Ok thanks. May I ask who you purchase them thru or who supply's them? Thanks.

Looks great. Nice work. Is the metal piece on the back of the holster, some sort of stiffner? Or a thumb break spring? Thanks.

I bet some padded cheek pieces would be a seller too. For these guys that shoot the BIG magnum calibers.

Nice work. It looks great.

I make whatever the customer orders. All my stuff I sew with bonded polyester thread that is outdoor related. I use 138 bonded poly & 346 bonded poly in black or white.

Nice work. I think it looks great. Like your color combo too. What color is the inside of the cover dyed? Is that the walnut pro dye as well. Or just the tan kote? Thanks.

Nice! Great design on that sheath. Much nicer & classier than the nylon or cordura sheath it sold with.

Nice work. It looks good. I really like your 2 tone edge treatment. Where are you hiding the gut hook blade in that sheath? On the back? Thanks.

Nice setup. Thanks for sharing. I needed to see the whole setup, cause I was having a hard time visualizing it thru words. Thanks.

Nice work. Looks nice. Can we get a overall picture of your cutting table setup. Thanks.

I will have to keep a eye out for the adjuster getting crooked from the lock nut. I knew about the dished adjuster to aid in oiling from some vids I watched. Thanks.

Check or call Ryan Neel at neels saddlery & speak with him. I think the 1 he carries might be the ticket. It is something like a HM-750-SL Model. This model:

Ok. So I removed side/front plate & lubed everything. Then I went & glued up exactly what I would be using for the rear flank billets. I then switched to a #25 S point needle. I increased stitch length to exactly 5 stitches per inch. I adjusted my presser foot pressure to 6 full turns out, from where I originally had the machine before putting it away. I think I could decrease my presser foot pressure some more. Also how do you guys fudge a stitch? When coming around to your original start point? Wether you need to fudge a shorter/ or longer stitch to meet in the original needle hole you started at? Thanks.

Soo I went ahead & removed the side/front plate, whatever you wanna call it. But does Cobra/Leather Machine Co. even mention all the oil holes under that cover in their oil maintenance schedule. I should of took some pictures. But there must be like 7-9 more oil holes/spots to oil the linkage & bars under the cover. Point taken for sure now. Ok I'll run a piece of leather thru in a bit & post results.

Nice! Save me a white one! Lmao I have spent too much money lately & strapped for cash. So it will be a few months before I recoup. Thanks. Nice work/fabrication!

Yes I think this is what happened to me. I think the needle bar & presser foot bar were stuck in the up posisition or stuck in general from sitting soo long & collecting dust. I have since then backed the presser foot pressure off by 10 full turns out. Now it is not marking the leather up as bad. I Think my presser foot pressure is still a bit high. I will find a video on removing the said plate you 2 are referencing & lubricate things. The tolerances must be real tight on the needle bar shaft & the pressure foot shaft. Thanks. I'm getting ready to make a couple more practice runs. Soo I will report back.

Thanks everybody. You all gave me a lot of things to try & play around with today. I would think the #25 needle I was using is big enough. That 346 lubricated poly thread falls thru the needle eye like throwing a hot dog down a hallway. Ok I'll try adjusting presser foot pressure & changing my presser feet out. Also I will order some #26 needles. Also if I go to a # 26 needle can I still use @Patrick1 #25 throat plate & #25 feed dog? Or does that need changed out as well? Thanks.

Ok. Thanks for sharing that. The other thing I was wondering if maybe my stitch length is too close together & it is stretching the leather between the stitch holes. I will play around some more. Lmao I bought 2 full sides of leather just to make 2 rear flank billets, soo I got some practice leather. Just hate that it's Hermann Oak sides I'm practicing on.

Let me ask this? Cause I don't know. Can your thread tension be soo tight it causes your needle holes to elongate from high thread tension? Causing the stitch/needle holes to appear/be enlarged? Lmao last time I used this machine I sewed 2 layers of 5oz Conceria Walpier Buttero with 277 thread. The time before that I sewed 2 layers of 2oz Conceria Walpier Dollaro with 138 thread & a #23 throat plate & feed dog.

Ok I switched to a #24 S point needle & backed off my presser foot presser by 2 turns. The 2nd stitch line in from the edge of the leather is the # 24 S point needle. I think I could get away with a # 24 S point needle with the lubricated polyester 346 thread. I'll continue to decrease my presser foot pressure, until the presser feet tracks go away or at least try.

Thanks. Yeah I am going to switch to a S point needle in the morning. Then start playing with my presser foot pressure too. I think it needs backed off a bit now or I need to lower my feed dog height a touch. I guess it all part of the game, plus I haven't had my Cobra class 4 out & sewing in probably 4 months or longer. Thanks.

Ok. I cut 2 pieces of the actual leather I will be sewing. Looks Ok to me. I think my feed dog height might be a touch high. Or I need to back the presser foot tension off a bit. I'm not sure, I'll have to do some more practice/testing.

No I have not touched the thread tension since switching to 346 poly thread. But I will mention that when I was using 277 thread I had to tighten/increase bobbin tension by 1 full turn on the bobbin thread tension to get it to even the stitches out. Should I decrease my bobbin tension by 1 full turn back. This will put the bobbin tension back to how the machine was shipped to me. Thanks.

Also I forgot to mention, I am using @Patrick1 #25 throat plate & feed dog. Also would switching to a different needle point change anything. Like go to a #25 S point leather needle? Thanks.

Guys & gals I have a Cobra class 4 & it was set up for 277 thread & sewed fine. I need to sew some rear flank billets for a saddle. The billets are 9mm thick that I need to sew. Which they will be 2 layers. They will be constructed using 5mm veg tan saddle skirting & 4mm Latigo, both Hermann Oak. Ok. So here we go: I swapped the thread over to lubricated 346 bonded polyester thread, both on top & in the bobbin. #25 Schmetz D point needle. So when I 1st started sewing, it kept picking up the leather when the needle was coming up. So I increased the presser foot tension, by 20 turns in. So now it no longer picks the leather up when the needle is on the up stroke, but at 1st it kept breaking my top thread. So I re-threaded it 3 times before it stop breaking my top thread. So now I got it sew thru 2 layers of 6mm saddle skirting, but it made lot of squeaking as the needle came back up thru the leather. So my question is: Why did it keep snapping my top thread at the beginning of sewing? Was it because my thread is 8-10years old? (Thread was in zip lock bags stored in the dark) if that matters on its age? Or because of the #25 needle is too small & I should go to a #26 needle? Should I be running a lube pot? Only running my machine at 200 rpm. Thanks. Any help or pointers will be greatly appreciated.