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Found 87 results
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So I thought I'd take the opportunity... I'm brand new to this, decided to make my own belt after drunkenly leaving my old one in a hotel room. Here is my first go around. Used a pre-dyed, semi-pre-punched belt blank and some hardware from Springfield Leather. Used an exacto knife to bevel the edges and (I think) quite a bit too much resolene/water 50/50. Version 2.0. Used just a pre-dyed strap this time, a template I designed on some CAD software to layout all the holes and slot, a proper edge beveler, and just one quick light coat of 100% Resolene. Feel like I'm on the right track. My question though is the final sealant. Resolene seems like it's letting nothing through, but do I really need that much of a seal? I'm feeling like it gives too much of a shiny plasticy look to the leather. I need some opinions on whether Acrylic Leather Sheen from Fiebings would give me a less shiny look, but still keep the dye in and water out? -
I have a problem and am at my wits’ end, so I figured I’d come ask you intelligent and experienced people for advice. :-) I apologize if this is long-winded. I have designed a cuff bracelet that fits various wrist sizes because it is slotted rather than clasped. I made a prototype that I have worn for months and months to “test drive” it, and it’s holding up great and gets a lot of compliments. But now that I’m trying to make it in other colors to sell, black in particular is giving me trouble. (By the way, I am using 7-oz. natural veg-tanned leather from Wickett & Craig.) Mine is dyed Fiebing’s “LIght Brown” (which is actually a lovely mottled dark brown) sealed with full-strength Resolene, and it’s doing fine. I’ve had a couple since then crack beside one of the slots — that could be due to overcutting the slot and/or not conditioning the leather. So I’ve started using leather conditioner after dyeing, and also using a punch tool to cut the slots instead of a hole punch and utility knife, and I haven't seen the cracking problem again so far. So here is the current problem… The several black ones that I’ve made recently have not held up to a stress test — the finish appears to rub off at the contact points. (See the picture for an example.) I haven’t made many colors, but my brown one doesn’t do this. (Of course, it’s possible that it DOES do this but I just can’t tell because the color behaves differently.) I have a dark blue one that has a similar issue to the black (though not quite as bad). It didn’t get conditioner, so I doubt it’s the conditioner causing the problem. I have tried different dyes (Fiebing’s Pro Oil Dye, and Angelus Jet Black). I have tried Black Resolene (which has had the WORST results for this), as well as clear Resolene (both at full strength). I have tried with and without additional finish after the Resolene (Eco-Flo Satin Shene, or Fiebing’s Leather Balm with Atom Wax). I have tried PRAYER. :-) I have used up a lot of time and leather. I need a durable and flexible finish that will prevent dye bleed when the person wearing the bracelet sweats, and that will not rub off at contact points. I suspect this is possible, as belt-makers seem to do okay… What finish do they use (or is it a certain kind of pre-dyed leather)? Should I be cutting the Resolene with water 50/50 (as I have seen suggested elsewhere in the forums), and would it solve the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated! -
Can anyone tell me what this tool is called? I've looked around different online leather tool shops and can't seem to find it. It would be easier if I knew what it was officially called. I like the edge it produces, I just don't know what to call it. Beveler, creaser and "magic edge tool" don't seem to show this tool in any google search. Thanks in advance. Dan
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I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
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Hi! I'm a new user and new to leather working! I'm lately just trying to figure out dyeing/staining/finishing methods and techniques for each different type. Lately I encountered an issue. I made a wallet and used Fiebings Dye. After a day of drying I applied Leather Sheen. After another day, I picked up the wallet with wet fingers and the color is running off of the wallet. I'm looking for any ideas of why? I thought the Leather Sheen was a protector and water repellent?? Please correct me if I am wrong. I tried out a test piece with Dye's and Stains and it seems like the Dye's all run when in contact with water. (with and without the leather sheen on it) None of the stain's or all in one's ran except an Antique Gel from Tandy. Am I doing something wrong? Because this doesn't seem right! Advice is appreciated! -
Hi folks, I have a about every dye available to man for dying leather. Yes I do. A ton of stuff I will never use again. So I thought before I change the acrylic I am using I would ask some of you here what you like and why you like it in acrylic finishes. I make holsters mostly and need the features that most acrylics offer. I have used Fiebings then went to Eco Flo satin which I like but I noticed Angelus has a satin finish too. I usually buy in larger quantities so I wanted to see if any of you have used Angelus satin finish or have maybe found something you think is a better acrylic in a satin finish before I commit to something for the next 100 or so holsters. I have found that you need to work with something for a while to truly get the best from it. Please post what you like about any acrylic product, the features that you find most appealing, and let's face it life is a trade off most of the time so mention what could be better with the product as well. Your experiences would be very valuable to me and maybe some others. -
I would like to attempt to make the following tote bag as a first project/gift. http://www.whippingpost.com/collections/totes/products/the-vintage-tote-bag I contacted the site and found out that they use a 5/6 oz veg tan leather, and copper rivets. Here is where the guidance comes in... In being new, i need to know the following: Where should i source the leather from? How do I finish to obtain these results/color? Where do i purchase the hardware/stitching material? Also, anything that you can think of that may help me in the process of creating this bag Thank you all, and what a terrific forum. Matt
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Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
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I have been using gum trag to finish the edges on all my other products, and it works alright. I was considering trying out fiebings saddle soap instead, to see how it works, but I recently heard that some animals might be allergic to glycerine, and I will be making some dog collars. So, does fiebings saddle soap have glycerine in it? Is it true that some animals might be allergic to it? If anyone has had any experiences with this, that would be very helpful. Also, as always, if there are any better/safer methods, feel free to advise! Thanks Zayne
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Hi All, I know this topic had been covered a lot previously, and I've tried looking for the answers without posting a new topic, but I'd still like to get some input from you. I've recently started making leather watch straps. I like the results, and have no big problems with any of the techniques, except from dying and finishing. I am using veg tan leather for this. The challenge with watch straps is that the leather is in direct contact with skin, so perspiration causes some dye to bleed out of the leather. Going forward I will probably avoid dying the side that is in contact with skin (this is not the flesh side, as I am folding the leather when making straps), but even for the top side, I would like to lock in the color as much as possible, to avoid damaging the sleeves from the color bleed and rub off. Here are some of the questions I have regarding this: 1. If I use acrylic resolene for waterproofing, to prevent the water from penetrating the leather (to a certain degree), it should work the other way around as well, preventing the dye to bleed out. Is this correct? 2. Does using acrylic resolene or leather sheen provide permanent protection from dye bleed/rub off, or is it a treatment that needs to be repeated after certain periods of time? I am not too worried about waterproofing or leather conditioning, as this will be the concern for the person who purchases the product going forward. I am more concerned with locking in the dye. 3. Right now I am using Eco-Flo water based dye. Now that I am reading the posts I see that most people recommend using spirit dyes instead. I am happy with the visual results of water based color, just concerned with locking in the color. Does spirit/oil based dye provide better results when it comes to this? Will I get similar results when using resolene or sheen on water based dyes? 4. Any additional advice/comments regarding the subject are more than welcome. Thanks everyone! Dejan -
While finishing the edges of a project today (50/50 resolene/water on top of Angelus leather dye) I had to walk away suddenly and some foam sitting on top of the piece dried and caused spotting. It is still there after completing the finishing and I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for removing, or at least lessening, the appearance of these spots. There are several in other areas as well. Thanks for your help! -
Hey all, had a little issue today while experimenting with the airbrush. Well, 2 issues really. The big one though was at the end. I masked off the area I wanted to finish with masking tape, pressed the edges down firmly to get a good seal, but after spraying the finish on and taking the tape off I found quite a few areas of leakage, as you can see in the picture. So the first question is, what do you use for masking off? I was using regular white masking tape, is there something better I can use that won't leave behind any residue to prevent later dyework? Second point, as I'm sure you can see, is that I'm getting a fair bit of leakage under the stencil. This one was a metal stencil and looked to be good and flat against the leather but even so there's leaks and spots where there shouldn't be. I am sure some of this is due to my really cheap single action airbrush but even so, I'm getting this a lot. What pressure do you guys run your airbrushes at? I bought a regulator to control mine as the compressor didn't have a very good one and (from what I recall, I have to convert the reading to psi to understand my gauge) I run it at around 15-20 psi. The airbrush is a suction model I use for all dye applications these days - no more uneven finishes! - but stencils I'm having problems with. Do you use anything like a spray mount on them to keep them in place, or just hold them there? Any other tips for a newbie airbrusher? Many thanks Raven ps: I'm in Queensland, Australia and the dyes and finish I'm using come from here - http://www.leatherfinishingproducts.com.au/index.php/cobblestone/ - Cobblestone dyes. Fantastic product, much easier to use than the Eco-flo and dilute with spirits or water. -
I completed several pancake and IWB holsters recently. Please take a look and let me know what you think. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would particularly like comments and suggestions on the cross draw holster. -
I am a beginner to leatherworking, I just made my first belt last night. The belt was not dyed, I went through all the processes, including edge beveling/burnishing with water, gum trag on the back, finishing with acrylic resolene, and then applying obenaufs leather preservative as a conditioner. My question is, do I really need to apply a finish? I would have liked the belt to be a bit darker, which im sure obenaufs would have achieved, had I not put a finish on before hand. Would just skipping the acrylic resolene finish, and just putting the conditioner on affect anything? Sorry if this has already been discussed, I wasn't able to find any information on it in the forums. Thanks. -
Hello, Is there much difference in RTC by Sheridan being used as a finish compared to Bee Natural Leather Finish in terms of feel, durability, color transfer/fading, cracking or waterproofing that you guys have noticed. I like both products but wanted to get your feedback on if one is better than the other in the long run. Thanks!! Stuart
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Im making a little card wallet for my girlfriend, and ive oiled it with extra virgin olive oil , and have applied the dye , i used ox blood which is really nice but its very difficult to get a nice even coat . if you guys have any tips on dying to get an even coat speak your mind please BUT ! my main problem after an hour drying i started buffing with some white paper towel and it just keeps coming off , ! there doesnt seem to be any end to it coming off. Am i doing something wrong or do i just have to keep buffing ? Did i leave it long enough to dry ? and what is a good finish to put on a wallet ? -
Hi Folks, This is my first post here on LW.net, but I've been lurking for a few months. I'm making belts using 12/13oz English Bridle Leather. I've got the edges like I want them, but I'm having difficulty developing a super-durable finish on the face of the strap. Most of the advice I see on LW.net deals with natural leathers in which dyeing is part of the finishing process. My question is basically this: what method do you use to create the most durable/permanent finish that's possible on English Bridle Leather? Neatsfoot oil? Gum Trag? Wax? I want to avoid having (for instance) the belts "patina-ing" within a few days of use, or, as one of my belts does, have the finish rub off when I wear an OWB pancake holster. Also, there is no "tooling" per se, but sometimes a crease. Thanks in advance, folks, Nic
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Hi friends, I've just started working with LCI Clear-Lac (brushing it on full-strength) and would like to thin it a bit. Does anyone have a source for LCI thinner? And/or does the DYO thinner sold at Panhandle Leather work with the LCI Clear-lac? Thanks, Jynelle -
Hey people . any one know how i get this effect on leather ? what kind of dye is used ? or what technique is used to apply it ?
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Hi all, I have been coming here for help for a while now but this is my first post. I know you will all be able to help. I have a business selling leather dog collars, and I recently got some startling feedback from a customer. It seems that she bought one of my collars and after about a month of use it was very badly stretched, discolored and brittle. She apparently has a very active dog and it gets "heavy outdoor use" including being worn while swimming sometimes (not sure how often) and bathing. She did oil it several times to keep it conditioned, but still had very poor results with it. You can see from the before (not the exact collar) and after pics what it looked like. The black collar in the after pic is not one I made, only the undyed one. Here is some info about the construction of the collar: Leather is 6/7oz (I have since switched to 9/10oz) double shoulder from Tandy 1" wide with beveled edges No dye used, finished with 3 coats of Angelus Acrylic Finisher Good coating of Neetsfoot oil applied after finisher I am basically wondering what I can do differently (other than increasing thickness of leather since I already have done that) to make my collars last better. I have been in business for 4 years and have never had feedback of this nature before, so I don't know if it was the use of the collar or the production that was the problem. I have noticed that my undyed collars often feel more pliable than the dyed ones and have been wondering if the dye itself perhaps has some preservative qualities. Should I be using a neutral leather dye on collars that are not to be colored? Any info or tips you all could give would be appreciated.
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Okay, I have quite a few questions in regards to sealants/finishes for acrylic paint! What would you consider to be the most durable sealant/finish to go over acrylic paint on an item that will be used outdoors and must withstand a lot use? Is there a certain sealant you put on the paint prior to using the finish? I've heard that Resolene is the best to use, is that true? If so, how many 50/50 coats do you put on the item? How many coats of sealant prior to Resolene? Thank you for your time!
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I am having trouble getting even color coverage on my dyed pieces. I am using Angelus spirit based dyes thinned with denatured alcohol and I use a wool dauber to apply the dye. I always apply a VERY light coat of neetsfoot oil and let it dry before dying. I have no problem on narrow pieces where the dauber can cover the whole width in one stroke but on 1" and above I am having trouble because of having to make multiple passes. I have my dye thinned to the point where I can go over several times and get the color I want, but usually if I thin the dye too much for more passes the final color is watered and weak. Any suggestions? I don't have an air gun, and would much rather stick with hand applying the dye. here is a picture of the kind of streaking I am getting. It is not horrible but I really would rather have the color nice and even over the whole piece. Thanks in advance!
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I have been doing some searching through forums history/archives in regards to painting & staining leather. I am doing some painting on leather and my question is about the staining. I've been using the Eco Flo All in One stains and more recently started using some of the Fiebings water based dyes in dark brown and chocolate as I prefer darker leather. My question is, how do I go about painting on those? I've noticed, especially with my white paints that they end up with a brown "tinge" to the white paint. In order to get rid of the tinge, it seems like I have to build up many many layers that possibly wouldn't be necessary if I could get rid of that tinge. I've tried deglazing my leather after staining but in order to get it "clean" enough to get rid of the tinge effect, I have to deglaze it so much that it really dries out the leather and gives it a gray haze. I've just been making some items for myself like spur straps, bracelets, etc. So they need to be able to flex and such without the paint cracking/flaking/peeling. So far I've had great luck with my paint but just seem to struggle with the stains & dyes bleeding through my paint. I would really like some advice on what I should do and would certainly appreciate the help. I have seen some people that paint their design on the unstained veg tan and then are able to stain after. I would imagine they would have to be using some kind of antique to do this as a liquid dye/stain wouldn't be very even if applied carefully around the design with a brush or wipe off the sealed painted area. I could really use some advice on this and would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions! -
How do I achieve a light oil finish on my tack? I love the way it looks but have never been able to find a dye light enough to achieve the look I want. Any step by step pointers would be fantastic! I am also trying to find a place to buy thick leather to make 1 ply headstalls, breastcollars, etc. I have some light saddle skirting but it is just too thin and I have to make them two ply. Any suggestions on where to find good leather for this would be great. Of course as I am just starting out making tack, the smaller pieces I can find that still work are usually the cheapest so the better Thanks in advance! CW -
When is the appropriate time to add the resolene? Before or after stitching? I need to apply it but having only used it once, i am unsure when to slap it on! Also this bag will have suede rolled edges around the bag opening, and i dont think the resolene should touch the suede (or is it okay to use on suede?). Should i apply leather balsam before resolene or after? thanks Adam
