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Found 60 results

  1. Hey all, New member here, but I'm running out of places I can search for help on either ideas or instruction. I have a hat band I'm wanting to make, and I haven't yet gotten all the supplies because I'm not sure what all I'll need for the project. My goal is to make a leather hat band with unobstructed bullets around the outside. I'm wanting to avoid the typical bullet loops look or stitching around the front of the bullet, as I feel it would obscure the bullet itself aesthetically. I'm going to be using pre-fired .357 Magnum brass bullets and leather for the hat band itself. I have a hat band currently on my hat, and the decorative pieces on it have a type of diamond-shaped rivet with prongs that punched through the band to be bent back to secure them on sort of like a staple. Simple stuff. The bullets I'm getting can have a hole drilled into them, and in my mind's eye I pictured something like some sort of brad or rivet securing inside the drilled hole of the bullet, so essentially the bullet would have prongs sticking out of it on one side that I can then use to secure it to a hat band cleanly. I hope that made sense. A friend suggested some sort of contact cement or glue or goop but I worry that a bullet's surface area onto leather would prove both too small and weak in lasting under duress of wear and tear, and would be messy and not clean in presentation if I were to go this route. tl;dr: I'm searching for help on if there's a way to give the bullet some sort of prongs that can be put through a leather hat band while looking slick and put together and not sloppy. Would there be a way to simply secure the rounded surface area of the bullet to a flat rivet itself which then can be secured to the hat band? Is it even possible to drill a hole into a bullet and have something inserted that would create prongs for the bullet itself? Are prongs even the best way to go about this? or would glue or goop or contact cement prove better? The leather hat band will be sitting snug against a high-quality leather cowboy hat so I also want it to be safe against the leather of my hat without scratching or something. I'm completely new at all of this so any and all ideas and help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time!
  2. I bought at auction a lot of leather supplies when Whitman Leather Co of Cintinnati Oh retired and closed its doors. I had no idea how much I had actually won in the auction as it was online only and pictured rolls of leather. I am interested in selling a lot of this stock but am a little overwhelmed with the amount of everything. They made premium saddles, as well as other horse/tack products and many many different types of gear belts and accessories for the Ohio police and fire departments. If you're interested in seeing pics of what I have or if you'd be interested setting a time to come see message me and I'll try to answer any questions.
  3. Does anyone know where these rivets come from? Diesel used to use them on their belts.
  4. So a friend of mine got his bag stolen so I told him I'd make him one. This is my first attempt at a bag, I'll admit I hadn't thought about how to handle the corners. I have a lovely maul that I forgot at work so I did all the hole pricking with a crappy rubber hammer, hence the junk job with the stitching. Hey, at least it's solid! I know I didn't do the leather justice, but I had fun with it. Oh, and I kinda feel like a jerk for making theblacing and edging green, since my friend is red/green colorblind. >;)
  5. Hello, everyone! I'm looking to do an equipment upgrade in the near future and I need a little guidance from those who have already taken this path... I currently set snaps, rivets, etc by hand (& hammer). Same thing with the Delrin makers mark that I've had since I started this little journey...I plan to upgrade to a metal one as part of this retooling. What do you suggest for a press-type machine that would handle those duties as an upgrade? Modified arbor press? I know the GoldStar press works with snaps and rivets...does anyone have experience using it with their makers mark? As always, the input and suggestions from this community is appreciated and helpful! Thanks in advance! Chris
  6. I have 300 plated steel tubular rivets to trade. I have 3/8 inch overall tall rivets and want 1/4 inch tall ones. So there is no confusion I am showing a picture of the two rivets. The one's like I want are shown on the left.
  7. I recently acquired a D.B. Die Works No. 39 kick press. It is currently without a stand. Before I go ahead and build my own stand for it, do any of you out there have the original stand for this kick press for sale? Also, can you suggest a good source to purchase dies for this machine? I will be looking for dies for Line 20 and Line 24 snaps. I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks!
  8. Hello All - I am a new member, and this is my first post. I'm excited to begin learning from this community. I have an antique bicycle saddle that has split on the "nose," where it was riveted to the metal subframe. I'm debating whether or not I should try to reconnect the leather in this area, but do not want to experiment anything with the process. The value of the saddle is ~$300, so I do not want to risk devaluing it. Having said that, I've been looking around and seen a few products advertised to "glue" leather (Tear Mender). Would this be a safe method to use? In addition to this, should I use any other products to glue the leather to the steel subframe...was considering some kind of epoxy for this because it will be hidden once the leather itself is mended. Finally, is there anything I can use to fill the joint and color to match the rest of the leather? (see 2nd photo) I will not ever actually use this saddle to ride on, so I am not concerned with any weight stresses that would otherwise occur. The bike will only sit on display. Please see the photos below and let me know your thoughts! Thank you!
  9. I'm looking for some custom copper rivets with my brand on them, a la jeans. I'm also looking for some 1cm and similar size flat top snaps with my brand on them. Any ideas?
  10. jakeisme30

    Logo Rivets

    Does anyone know where, or if, there is a reasonably priced supplier of custom rivets. I am looking for someone to make rivets, that have my logo stamped into them.
  11. So I've been on a quest to use materials and components made in the USA for my projects. It's a point of pride for me, and also a selling point when talking to people about my items. I've been fairly happy with Hermann Oak veg tan, and I've been very happy with Maine Thread's polycord, so those areas are sorted. Finding quality metal hardware has been a real pain, however. I have a Gold Star press, so I wanted snaps and rivets that fit my existing dies. I have a strong dislike for plated steel, as a lot of my things go outside and will eventually rust here in perpetually soggy Western Oregon. I finally found Dot Fasteners and Rome Fastener Sales. Dot never got back to me regarding samples or country of origin. I called Rome and talked to Georgia, who sent me sample snaps and rapid rivet samples almost immediately. No charge for a handful of each to check on my press. So far so good! The samples appeared to be high quality and did indeed work with my dies, although I had to slightly file down the ligne 20 snap socket die. Here's where things got strange/frustrating. I emailed the sales email address asking for a quote (there are NO prices anywhere on their website) and got no response. I emailed Georgia, copying sales, asking the same info and got no response. About a month later I called back and was transferred to Robert who apologized and took down all the part numbers and my email to send me a quote. I got nothing. A few weeks later I called again and got Francine, who again took the part numbers and promised to email or call that day or the next with the quote. She called me back a couple hours later with a detailed quote for all the items, which was great. They have a $125 minimum on the full order, no minimums on individual items, and I should email my order with part numbers and quantities to Robert, which I did. I got no response or confirmation and had about totally given up on them, but about a week later Francine called to get my payment info (credit card) and said my order was shipping. I told my wife, "I've never had to work so hard to give a company my money!" Several days later my order arrived (complete and correct, you can bet I checked it...) and I'm pretty pleased with the quality. I ordered ligne 20 & 24 snaps, some small rapid rivets, and some snap hooks all in both solid brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 20 brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 24 brass and nickel over brass. As for a recommendation, I don't quite know what to say. So, here are the bullet points for you to decide if you want to try them... Service: Obviously getting pricing and ordering is not as easy as it should be. I don't know if my experience was standard, or if I just had some especially bad luck. They were also out of stock on several less common items (nothing that was critical for me to get) and, again, I don't know if that's a normal thing. Quality: Good, but also a couple of odd inconsistencies. The nickel L20 sockets are stamped "ROME * USA", while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * MILFORD". The nickel L20 eyelets are stamped "ROME * USA" very clearly, while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * ROME" very lightly. I like having them marked, but it's odd that they don't all match. The L24 parts have no markings. The brass parts all appear to have a clear coat protectant on them, which only time will tell if it holds up. The brass is not polished looking, like a plated finish would be. That's fine with me, but some might object. Selection: Very good. Lots of variations on snap cap or eyelet lengths, lots of rivet cap sizes and post lengths. Really more combinations that I think you can find anywhere else I've seen. They also have a lot of base metal and finishes available. I wonder how hard it would be to order more exotic combinations, given my difficulty in placing a very standard order. Price: Not bad. More than crappy Chinese steel, certainly, but not terrible. Solid brass small rapid rivets are about $0.25 each. Solid brass L20 snaps are roughly $.29 each. They do charge a few cents more for the nickel plated brass, and I imagine other metals/finishes are priced accordingly. They do offer brass or nickel plated steel for a fair bit less, although I didn't get prices. Again, not exactly cheap, but I think fair for quality brass made in the US of A. Long review, but I know others are interested in finding quality and/or domestic suppliers. I'll definitely give Rome my business when I'm due for my next resupply and hope that the service issues were an anomaly.
  12. Hello, I've been trying to find a supplier to order american made hardware from. Preferably hardware with matte and/or antique brass finish. But mainly just looking for hardware made in the United States. I do a lot of strap and belt making, so I'm looking for American-made rivets, split key rings, o rings, d rings, reducing loops, buckles, etc. I have no idea where to look. Google hasn't been any help. There are no local manufactures in my area. The owner of www.TapAndDye.com uses all American hardware, so I know it's out there. I asked him, but never heard back. Can someone please point me in the right direction?
  13. Just wondering where (besides Tandy) to hunt down some hardware. To be more specific...snaps and rivets. Line 24 snaps, glove snaps etc. I've looked online and unless I am an idiot (which is highly likely), I can't seem to find much! Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
  14. Hello all Can some one please tell me what this type of rivet is called? or what is the most secure type of rivet? Thanks all.
  15. I would like to rivet (or sew, as my backup plan) 1/4" wide kangaroo lace. But I can't seem to find on the internet, tiny rivets, less than 6 mm wide. Any ideas?
  16. I would like to attempt to make the following tote bag as a first project/gift. http://www.whippingpost.com/collections/totes/products/the-vintage-tote-bag I contacted the site and found out that they use a 5/6 oz veg tan leather, and copper rivets. Here is where the guidance comes in... In being new, i need to know the following: Where should i source the leather from? How do I finish to obtain these results/color? Where do i purchase the hardware/stitching material? Also, anything that you can think of that may help me in the process of creating this bag Thank you all, and what a terrific forum. Matt
  17. Say I'd like to have a belt that says "LILY LAMBDA" all written in rivets. (In fact, I would like that very much) How do I lay out the letters nicely so I know where to put the rivets? I could draw a grid and try to handwrite my own LED-looking font, but I'm wondering if there's a better way. It would be real magic if there was a program where I could put in the dimensions of the leather, the dimensions of the rivet heads, and kaboom — it makes a printable guide for you. What have you tried?
  18. I have bought a building which had been operated as a leather shop. It has riveting machines, punch out machines, cutting machines, skiving machines, pretty much everything needed to manufacture horse halters, leashes. leads, etc. It has about 12 pieces of machinery, the rivet machines are by Thomson, the punch out machines are by Western, all the machinery It 1,000's of pieces of hardware (rivets, studs, caps, o-rings, d-rings, square rings, buckles in numerous sizes (brass and nickel plated),most made by a company called North &Judd. It also has 1,000's of pieces of hardward like snaps, latches, swivels, snap bolts, etc. And not to mention the 1,000's of pieces of inventory like chains for leashes, horse halters, dog collars, strips of leather which were never finished...well you get tthe idea. If anyone is interested in some of this, please let me know. We have just begun loading some of this stuff on eBay, but if someone in the business could use it, that would be better. Thank you.
  19. Can someone tell me if a brass rivet is made that is similar to the copper rivet with a burr? I need some flat head sturdy brass rivets and don't know what to order. I got some rapid rivets last time and they are way too weak. I'm using them for everything from straps and hardware to bags. Thanks for any help given, Lyle
  20. Hello all, I am having issues setting brass rivets with my rivet setter (https://www.etsy.com/listing/118895691/stud-rivet-setter-tool-machine-hand). The posts always end up indenting the caps, even when I cut the post down. If I cut the posts any shorter than I do the caps come off without much effort. I don't think it is an issue with the rivet setter, it seems to function as it is intended. The die used on the machine is a 12mm double cap die. I am using 7mm and 9.2mm double cap rivets with differing post sizes for various leather thicknesses. My plan was to cut down any posts that were too long, but as I mentioned, the posts still indent the caps. Have any of you had similar issues? Thanks Zayne
  21. Is there any way to remove rivets from old belts and such and reuse them? I have seen so many cheap belts and purses etc. in thrift stores that have really nice rivets. I'm new to leather and I'd like to re-use them on leather projects.
  22. I have a friend from Canada who is looking for suppliers for spots, nailheads, swarovski, and rhinestones in settings for making dog collars. She needs a place like standard rivet without all the customs fees and shipping fees. Anyone know of a Canadian supplier?
  23. Good morning. I have bought a building which had up until 3 years ago been operated as a leather shop. It has riveting machines, punch out machines, cutting machines, skiving machines, pretty much everything needed to manufacture horse halters, leashes. leads, etc. It not only has all the machinery, it has 1,000's of pieces of hardware (rivets, caps, o-rings, d-rings, square rings, buckles in numerous sizes (brass and nickel plated), most of the buckles, if not all, are made by a company called North & Judd. There is also 1,000's of pieces of hardward like snaps, latches, swivels, snap bolts, etc. And not to mention the 1,000's of pieces of inventory like chains for leashes, horse halters, dog collars, strips of leather which were never finished...well you get tthe idea. If anyone is interested in some of this, please let me know. We have just begun loading some of this stuff on eBay, but if someone in the business can use it that would be great. I am going to begin a Drop Box page with some of the pictures and will post an update shortly with that link. Thank you.
  24. I am starting my leatherworking adventure with a fairly simple piece. However I am having some trouble pin pointing this leather. http://imgur.com/a/tOzC5 In the album above is a picture of the hound from game of thrones. He has armor that is studded leather strips of cowhide (At first I thought it was veg tanned that was just backgrounded but that is actually full grain cowhide atf sides.) Underneathed the leather is rivetted into a different type of leather and I cannot for the life of me pin point what it is. It looks to be suede, however I just think it looks thicker. You will also notice that around the edge of his costume it seems like the leather is folded in, how do I create that effect? A Skiver and some cement? Or should I hand stitch. If you look at the second picture you will notice that it is hand stick on the sides with thread, that is the leather that Im trying to pin point. Its my first post here, please be kind if I am asking a silly question. Thank you.
  25. Anyone seen these before? For the life of me I can't find a supplier.. I can find tons of regular copper rivets, but none of the jiffy, rapid, or double cap rivets.. Thanks Todd
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