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Showing results for tags 'sewing'.
Found 244 results
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Hey y'all..I have a Sailrite LS-1 for sale in excellent condition.. This is a straight stitch machine. It also has the heavy duty table sold on www.sailrite.com as well. If you're on here, I 'm sure you've heard of these little workhorses..I live in Oklahoma, near Ardmore. This machine hasn't had over a pound spool ran through it since new. Will take $550 for it.. hit me up on facebook or email..breid2413@yahoo.com. Thanks for looking. help me out here have a new consew coming and don't have room for it.
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Hello, I am looking for someone who can cut & sew duplicates of a wallet concept I have already had a 1st sample & patterns made. This is NOT a tooling leather wallet. We use calfskin & other lightweight leathers. Also there are tucked edged & would be concidered a "designer" wallet, even though it doesnt seem like it. The elments used are: Leather Elastic Bonded leather My company is a 100% domestic manufactured. Looking for sampling contactors & someone who can do production domesticly. Thanks for ANY & ALL help! -Rye
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My son wants me to make him a bi-fold wallet and I am in need of some advice regarding thread size used for sewing. I have a Cobra 4 which is way overkill for a wallet I know but that is what I use for other things. I predominantly use 277 and 207 for what I sew, I know that is probably to thick for a wallet but it would work. What size thread and needle do most of you use on wallets? I was thinking a 137 but would defer to someone that does more wallets. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Ed in Grapevine Texas -
Advertised this machine in the past but no longer able to find on the site. I have a new COWBOY 4500 SEWING MACHINE, as shown in Leathrcrafters and Saddlers Journal and offered by Toledo Sewing Machine. Has all of the listed accessories and much more that I had purchased for the machine. Large spools of thread, needles, etc; and will all be included. I am not able to pack and ship but machine may be picked up in Opelika, Al., just off I-85. Asking price is below the price machine is being sold and with free extras. $2500.00 cash takes it home. Wish I had discovered an experienced teacher in the area, to teach me how to use the machine but no luck around here. I think I put the cart before the horse when I made the purchase. Had no desire to to attempt to take a stab at making a mess of things with such a great piece of machinery so it sits on it's pedestal and waits for a more courageous individual. If you make the purchase, please plan on having assistance with you as I am not physically able to load or lift anything these days. disabled senior,senior. Hope this is a machine for someone. Ray
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Hello Everyone, Jus thought I would share this simple video I made on threading a leather sewing machine. I know when I got the machine - the directions had me searching youtube to find a quick answer. Only after watching several videos did I finally understand how to do it. Now this video makes it short and sweet and easy to see. Check it out... http://www.mrlentz.com/2013/03/how-to-thread-a-leather-sewing-machine/ Cheers! Mr. Lentz
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I am new to leatherwork. I need to know how to punch holes through multiple layers of leather. I am using 8-10oz leather to make holsters. I have been using a drill with a tiny bit to make the holes through both layers so that the holes match up. I know this is not correct, but I have yet to find a good way to do this and ensure they line up. My holsters are turning out okay, but I want to do it right. Can someone let me know if they use their diamond awl to go through two layers at once? Can you let me know if there are different size diamond awls, and if so what size would you recommend. If you respond, pics would be great if possible. I really appreciate your time. I will attach a pic of a holster I did.
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Hello all I am new here, been reading the forum trying to solve my problem.... I recently purchased a 211G155 to sew purses and leather with. I am not new to sewing but this machine has me baffled. I too have this thread tension issue resulting in a rat's nest on the bottom of the material... I have checked and double checked my threading, there is a killer video on youtube about how to tread thru the tension disks. So I am pretty sure I have that correct. Wizcrafts wrote " A thread rat's nest under the material is usually caused by a total lack of top tension. However, the bobbin thread is usually picked up in those situations; it's just tighter on the bottom than the top my a magnitude." And this goes along with sewing machine common sense. What I cannot figure out is HOW or HOW TIGHT the tension should be.. There are no markings or adjustment indicators on the tension disks. It seems that there is quite a bit of tension on the thread, it is hard to pull so I know it is not an issue of no tension at all. The machine seemed to work perfectly when I bought it. It was set up and sewed a sample of my material just fine. All I have done is brought it home and wound new thread on a bobbin and threaded it with new #92 nylon thread and have a singer 130 needle properly installed. So I guess my question(s) would be, how tight is enough tension? How hard should it be to pull the thread thru the tension disks/spring? Do I just keep cranking the knurled nut down? Or does anyone have another opinion of what I am doing wrong? Thanks a bunch. Mia
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Greetings! I got great help when I was trying to figure out how to use the strap plate on my Cobra 4, so I thought I'd give the mob a shot at another Cobra question. I'm still working on that first halter, between Honey-Do list items, and I am wondering about sewing in the rings. The machine comes with a foot that Steve from Leather Machine Company says is for sewing "right up to something." I have tried it out, and I don't see any difference in the profile of the foot, its length, or any other aspect of the thing that gets me any closer to the ring. Any thoughts on the subject? Any advice in sewing up to the ring or buckle would be appreciated. I'm considering going to hand stitching, since none of the stitch lines are longer than about 2 inches on the single layer pony halter. However, I'm doing a double layer halter next, and reallllly don't want to hand stitch that. Thanks in advance! -Steve -
I recently purchased an Adler K204 machine. I have been unable to find any information on this machine, are any of you familuar with this model? some things I would like to know is the different needels that it will use. also thread types. I will be using the machine to make belts, cases, holsters, saddle repair etc. I have posted in other locations on this forum and had no response, so any help would be appreciated.
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Hi, I'm on the look out for a stitching machine. For making wallets, bags harnesses etc. I'm in the UK, southeast so I realise it might be difficult as most of you are in the US but I have to ask if anyone can help Franco
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Friends , i am very close to buying an upgrade , decided to change my crank stitcher for a motorized one , im looking to buy a machine that i will use for a long time now ive been researching a bit and came up to the last four machines for my use but cant seem to decide on wich one finally what is your input and recommendations help ! either artisan 3000 or artisan 3200 , cobra class 3 or techsew 4100 , i dont need to use a long arm machine i mostly do sheaths and some holsters and belts ! JT -
Hello, leather gurus, artisans, and hacks like me, I have an ooold Brother DB2-B755-3, which is identical to a lot of Juki's I see around, and looked in the .pdf manual that it accepts "DBx1 (DBx5)" needles. I am overwhelmed in confusion about needles and sizing and system and all things surrounding this. I took out the needle it came with because i wanted something smaller so I put in "Schmetz Leather 130/705" and under that it says "110/18". No good, unless i want to perforate leather. Did not make a stitch worth a darn. (see what I did there?!) I've seen all sorts of nonsensical numbers and am trying to hone in on what exactly will work for me. What is the relation between the DBx and the actual needle sizing? What will work for me? Thank you all for not making fun of me. Paul
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For those of you on chat a couple evenings ago, as promised here are a couple pics of my current 'in the works' project of my first custom guitar strap. Will add updates as work progresses. Background will be 'saddle tan' antiqued, star and barb wire concho between name and brand, buckle end on back guitar attachment, will also be lined with thin sheepskin by request. JJ Sorry, got two front pictures and no back. JJ
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Hi Leatherworkers! I've been following the forum for a while, and because of the great info on this site I just purchased a Cobra Class 4. I just picked it up today and couldn't be happier. To get a little practice under my belt, I did my first few stitches on some scraps. Although I saw Steve do some really nice stitches, I'm unable to figure out how to solve the problem in this picture. My bottom thread doesn't seem to be pulling through far enough. The leather in the picture is 2 pieces of 2/3 oz veg tan. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Joe
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Hi! I've been reading these forums and they've been very helpful so far, and many topics have come close to what I'm looking for but I'm about to give up and I'm hoping someone has some information to help me. I want to sew garment weight leather, specifically, leather taken from old coats. I just purchased a Family Sew FS388 because from what I've read these machines work for sewing lighter (garment) weight leather. I can't purchase an industrial machine (price, space, weight, etc.) so this machine seemed perfect. So far the machine seems to sew thick layers of fabric well but when I try to sew leather it sometimes skips stitches and sometimes just doesn't even sew at all. It just leaves long lines of thread behind and bunches up the leather. It seems to be ok when I sew the leather together with fabric (either with the leather on top or bottom), although that's not perfect either as it skips a stitch here and there too. I called in to the place where I bought it and he insists that this machine will sew leather and that I should try a different needle as it could be bent (I'm using the one that came with the machine now) and experiment with the tension. Could these problems be coming from that? Or is there something else I should be concerned about. I would appreciate any help and advice. I've been trying so hard for so long to figure this out that I'm about to just give up!
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So in order to create a baseball glove, the glove has to be flipped inside out to have the nice side of the leather showing. I have tried a few different methods involving a fabric steamer, wooden pole, and a customized item that goes into the oven to heat up. The problem I am having is that when I go to force pressure downwards the glove either rips where the seams are or the leather just bunches up. I know it's not the typical leather good but is there any suggestions? Alec -
Is there any projects out there for sewing machines? I've looked on you tube, the forum and googled about and there is loads of beginner projects for hand sewing. Is there anything similar for machine sewing projects out there? I've got experience with an industrial machine but leather is new to me. I'd like to sew some simple things for gifts - and as my own introduction to working with leather. Thanks. Kevin D.
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Hi There, I'm looking to make a couple of leather pencil cases like this one: http://img0.etsystatic.com/000/1/5272125/il_fullxfull.337681960.jpg I was just wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for achieving those ends. I've had a few tries but can't really get the same shape. Does anyone know if the ends have a particulare name? Any help would be great! Regards, Crypha
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I have searched all the forums and have not found what I need to know. so here goes. I'm wanting to make a vest and set of chaps for my 1 year old great-grandson and I am using oil tanned leather. I don't know how to keep my stitches in line and straight. marks from a divider or over-stitch wheel don't show up?? I'm open for any and all suggestions. Thank you all for taking your time and sharing all of the wisdom with us less/no experienced readers. Thanks again Paul
