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I recently acquired a Bob Douglas awl haft and blade, and I must say - the awl haft is brilliant. I was dreading installing the blade in the haft on account of not having a vise to hold the blade between two pennies nor having experience with working with epoxy to stick the blade in. To install the blade into the Bob Douglas haft, you simply unscrew the ferrule nut, insert the blade, then tighten the nut. It self-centers, and it's brilliantly simple to swap between blades. Truly a work of functional art.

Last night I started converting a $10.49 big box ball pein hammer into a cobblers hammer. The first step was to strip all the Varnish and Japanning off the handle and head. The handle wasn't to bat but the varnish on the head was probably 1/64" to 1/32" thick, I had to break out the wire wheels to get it off. The face was almost dead flat to start with, so it only took a few passes with a file and coarse sanding disks to give the face a slight dome, and to round over the edge. With sandpaper and scotch-brite pads up to 600 grit, I refined the shape of the face, and removed any tooling marks from earlier steps. To finish off the face, I progressed through black, read and then white rouge on a stitched cotton buffing wheel. Its not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with it so far. Tonight I'm going to see if the head will take a decent cold blue, and I will probably finish of the handle with boiled linseed oil and wax.

I am looking to buy a vintage CS Osborne knife. I am currently looking at one that has a Newark stamp on it. I believe they moved to Harrison around early 1900s. However, talking to some others they may have kept the Newark stamp for longer? I just would like some more info

What leather crafters call bump jigs, wood workers call "positioning squares." They are usually sold in sets of two or four, without a straight edge. I went through Amazon's entire offering of positioning squares and found one, and only one, set of two positioning squares with a straight edge. It is selling for $11.11 with free shipping for Prime members. It is available in 3-, 4-, and 6-inch models. It is the 4-inch one that sells for $11.11. It is orange plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Chiloskit-Woodworking-Carpenter-Auxiliary-Locator/dp/B07F3WTF18/ref=sr_1_258?crid=22MNMD87XVXMV&keywords=ruler%2Bpositioning%2Bsquare&qid=1642256981&sprefix=ruler%20positioning%20square%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-258&th=1

Selling a used Leather Stitch Compass Grooving tool $50.00 or best offer. Only used a few times. Joan Schatzlein Saddle Shop 612-825-2459

By any chance does anyone have a have a two or 3 ton arbor press that you no longer need or use. Willing to pay fair market value An arbor press is a small hand-operated press. It is typically used to perform smaller jobs, such as staking, riveting, installing, configuring and removing bearings and other press fit work. Punches, inserters, or other tools/dies may be added to the end of the ram depending on the desired task. ALSO LOOKING FOR 2 6 by 6 inch 1/2 “ steel plates and 2 polymer plates also strong magnets

I have for sale a selection of some vintage leather working tools and some vintage ones, I am shipping from Belgium and can do a discounted amount if multiple pieces are purchased Or cover half the shipping. I’m mainly looking to just make some space in the workshop. Starting from top to bottin I have the following; -Tina 211 knife with brass knife that is no longer produced, comes with the old Tina knife box - 25€ -Vintage shoe makers knife from a Swedish maker, needs resharpening. 10€ -Vergez Blanchard no.2 round paring knife 28€ -vintage Thomas Adams no.14 pricking iron, has first and last tooth chipped 25€ -Vergez Blanchard no.2 oblique paring knife 28€ -Vintage Blanchard straight shoe makers knife long model 18€ -mundus clicker knife missing awl at back 10€ -vintage Blanchard double Creasing iron no.5 30€ -Blanchard trim hammer with lightly polished face 25€ on top is a left handed sewing palm/guard (free for who ever wants with their purchase) more pictures can be sent on request

I’ve only been doing leather work for about a year but have come to the conclusion that this is an expensive hobby- at least the way I’ve been approaching it. I really admire the talented craftsmen that post on this site and aspire to get close to that level of work. I made a few wallets and belts - all as gifts - and found that the leather became pretty costly. I used Herman Oak precut blanks doubled up and hand sewn and the belts probably cost me $35 each with the hardware included. The wallets weren’t bad expense wise but I did a bag and wound up spending another big chunk of change. I suspect there are much more economical ways to make these projects- I would certainly like to hear any suggestions. I was a woodturner prior to trying leather and I guess I was spoiled with the free wood. I enjoy leather but I am wondering about the long term since leather (and everything else) is getting more expensive. Do most leather crafters rely on selling some products just to finance the hobby?

A good electrician friend of mine helped me get my workshop wired and powerd up. So i wanted to give him a custom leather piece for helping me. I usually do gun leather,belts and bags so the tool pouch was a fun different project. I do alot of stamping but have only done a few carving pieces. The reddy kilowatt character on the small front pocket on this pouch is by far the hardest carving ive done to date. I hope the leather family here enjoys.

Weaver self centering punch with custom dies. Asking $1400 for punch and dies. Feel free to DM any questions or reasonable offers, thank you.

At the urging of friends, family, and my wife I've decided that someday is today.... We've often talked about making some items and going on the festival circuit to sell things and see the country. I've been making things for folks for several years, learned a lot, and everyone seems to think I'm good at this stuff... So, I'm ordering a Cowboy CB4500, and then I'm stuck...rivet setter? rotary strap cutter? Any advice on machines to speed up production? I make holsters, jewelry, books, cosplay armor, sheaths, and other...thinking of doing bags and backpacks. Thanks in advance, any advice is appreciated.

Does anyone have any tips for getting really tight/ uniform flower centers using a very small seeder? I've had OK luck with it but I see some other craftsman absolutely killing it on this. Is this an actual one hit style of stamp or is it a series of multiple hits on a "one seed" style seeder. How do you get the layout so uniform especially in such a small space as a flower center? Start in the center and work your way out or vice versa? Any tips or tricks are much appreciated.

Over 120+ packages of hardware (approx 7600 pieces) all from Tandy. Rings, snaps, rivets, buckles eyelets, etc. Easily over $1400 in value if bought from tandy (not including their outrageous shipping costs). Buy it all for $800 or pick and choose your pieces. Buyer to pay actual shipping costs from 08023 See the list below. I have a ton more pictures but have limited space here. Let me know if you want to see more. Description Number of Pieces in pkg Number of pkgs Tandy Price My Sale Price Sterling Silver Ladies buckle Set from Wyatt Silver 3 1 Make offer Sterling silver Mens buckle from Wyatt Silver 1 1 Make offer Oval Brass Purse Closures 3 1 $11.97 $10.00 Brass ring purse closures 3 1 $11.97 $10.00 Antique Brass fold over purse closures 3 1 $11.97 $10.00 Magnetic brass bag closures 3 1 $7.17 $5.00 Large bag of mixed buckles (5/8"-1 1/4") 102 1 $102.00 $75.00 2" silver roller buckles 24 1 $48.00 $35.00 Brass belt buckles 9 1 $18.00 $12.00 silver and brass 1 3/4" buckles 8 1 $12.00 2 1/2" silver rings 15 1 $12.00 $8.00 Silver/Brass 1 3/8" steel rings 50 1 $24.50 $17.00 mixed split rings 62 1 $12.00 $5.00 3" silver/brass steel rings 17 1 $51.00 $40.00 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" D rings silver/brass 90 1 $112.50 $75.00 2 1/4" silver D-rings 9 1 $36.00 $30.00 1/2" - 1" silver/brass D-rings 268 1 $372.52 $100.00 3/4" - 2 7/8" buckles silver/brass 72 1 $72.00 $50.00 mixed bag of Tandy hardware 60 1 $35.00 mixed metal belt keepers 124 1 $110.36 $75.00 Tandy Line 24 snaps and tools 1 1 $10.00 $5.00 Tandy 3/16" Eyelets and tools 1 3 $7.00 $4.00 Large bag of mixed spots 1 1 $10.00 1 3/4" antique brass belt buckle 1 1 $5.00 Large bag of 7/16" tubular rivets 200 1 $12.00 $7.00 Tandy Line 24 Solid Brass snaps 100 3 $64.95 $40.00 Huge bag of large silver spots 200+ 1 $10.00 Huge bag of medium silver spots 200+ 1 $9.00 Tandy Large Flower Double Cap Rivets 100 1 $7.00 $4.00 Large bag of small silver spots 100+ 2 $5.00 Tandy Antique brass Line 24 snaps 100 1 $29.99 $18.00 Tandy 3/16" eyelets 100 1 $2.59 $1.50 Tandy small gun metal double cap rivets 100 1 $3.99 $2.00 Tandy 10mm (large) Domed Rivets 100 1 $6.50 $5.00 Tandy small copper rivet setter 1 1 $10.00 $5.00 Tandy Super Jumbo Perma Lok needle 1 2 $3.49 $2.00 Tandy Double Cap Rivet Setting tool 1 4 $2.50 $1.00 Small bag of mixed large eyelets 50+ 1 $2.00 Mixed 1 1/4" steel rings 35 1 $20.00 $15.00 Tandy small nickle double cap rivets 100 5 $3.99 $2.00 Tandy Large Domed rivets 100 4 $6.50 $5.00 Large bag of miscellanious buckles/slides 93 1 $25.00 Tandy Medium double cap rivets solid brass 100 2 $14.99 $10.00 Tandy line 20 black snaps 100 3 $29.99 $18.00 Tandy Concho snap adapters 10 1 $3.99 $2.00 small gun metal hex shaped eyelets 100 1 $3.00 Tandy Large double cap rivets (solid brass) 100 4 $14.99 $10.00 Tandy Large Nickle double cap rivets 100 2 $5.49 $3.50 Tandy Medium Rapid rivets brass 100 1 $3.89 $1.50 large Black Rivets 100 2 $7.99 $5.00 Tandy line 24 black snaps 100 6 $38.99 $25.00 Blank belt buckles 11 1 $18.59 $10.00 Tandy rivets and tools 1 2 $10.00 $5.00 Craftool segma snap setting tools 1 2 $10.99 $7.00 Tandy Line 20 Snap Setting tool 1 2 $2.49 $1.50 Tandy small domed rivet setting tool 1 3 $6.99 $5.00 Tandy 1/4" eyelet setting tool 1 1 $5.99 $3.50 Tandy 1/8" perma lok needle 1 6 $2.49 $1.50 Tandy Jumbo Perma Lok Needle 1 5 $2.99 $1.50 Tandy Line 20 snaps brass 100 1 $27.99 $18.00 Tandy Embossing Wheel (Celtic knot) 1 1 $8.99 $6.00 Tandy Line 24 silver snaps 100 1 $29.99 $18.00 Tandy small flower double cap rivets 100 1 $3.99 $3.00 Tandy Medium nickle double cap rivets 100 2 $4.99 $3.00 Large star double cap rivets brass 100 1 $7.00 $4.00 Tandy small antique brass rivets 100 2 $3.99 $2.50 Tandy small star double cap rivets 100 1 $5.00 $3.00 Tandy small brass plate double cap rivets 100 3 $3.99 $2.50 Tandy small double cap rivets solid brass 100 2 $12.99 $8.00 1/4" brass eyelets 50 1 $3.99 $2.00 1/4" nickle eyelets 50 1 $3.99 $2.00 Tandy Small rivets solid brass 100 2 $12.99 $8.00 Tandy large double cap rivets (nickle) 100 1 $5.49 $3.00 Tandy small black double cap rivets 100 1 $6.49 $4.00 $1,527.18 $986.50

Lightly used Mighty Wonder clicker press and sturdy, adjustable height workbench for sale! Both pieces in great shape. Asking $1,200 for the pair together. The press was originally $1,500, and the workbench was over $300. The workbench has a solid butcher block top, with holes drilled for the clicker to bolt securely through the surface. Very sturdy and heavy duty, it's been a great set-up. Pick up in Memphis, TN.

I am thinking of buying the 440C steel Master Tools Deluxe Round Knife from Weaver. Does anyone have or used this knife? Are they any good? Did the knife come ready to use or need extensive sharpening? I am also looking to buy a Master Tools French Edger. Are they any good? Do they come ready to use? Is the cutting bevel on the bottom or in the top channel (like the cheap ones from Tandy)? Thanks for your help.

Good evening everyone, I'm new to leatherworking and I'm enjoying it, but having a few little issues! A project requires me to stitch through three layers of 3/4oz leather. I'm using pricing irons to punch my holes, but the iorn is getting stuck and then I'm putting the leather out of shape when getting the tool out. Should I be using a tool with fewer prongs? Should I just be aiming to use the iron as a mark and then opening up with an awl? Or are my irons too shallow for the job? They are only cheap ones as I can't afford to invest too much right now (I'm a seasonal worker and there's not much work for me right now!) Thanks in advance.

Put my hand up at an auction last week, bought 4 tons of leather from a Leather Factory in Lynn Ma that made high fashion handbags, portfolios and other leather goods for the travel and fashion industry. Really an amazing collection of Weights, tanning methods colors and textures. Small scraps to whole hides, various species. I am not an expert in identifying leather so if you are in the area please bring your expertise and come check it out. Prices as low as $2 per pound and $2 to $7 per square foot depending on weight finish and condition. When I say some thing for everybody I am not exaggerating. Nubec, latigo, prints, raw, oil, colors chrome etc. You can see photos and message me here at FB market place. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/386611275340297 or call or txt at 6o3 fivefive3 l49five

How does this thing work? Is it a leather splitter? Is there a video somewhere showing it in action? Thanks!

So for sale as individual items or a lot I have the following from top to bottom -vintage french wing dividers -10spi large vintage pricking iron with polished teeth -Brand new abbey England adjustable creaser -no.2+1 Vintage J.Dixon single head Creasers (need handles) -C.S.Osborne tack/nail remover -Far right is a vintage Seam Turner i do ship internationally and Im happy to look at any offers on the tools! I also have a lot of vintage round knives like Gomph and W.rose on my site www.saddlerscorner.com

Hello - We recently acquired a large Japanese box containing vintage tools some of which we believe may be for leather working. We would be most grateful for any comments about their use. We in particular are unsure what the brass "pricking tool " is used for ( if it is such,) as it is seems too thin to be a punch. The box also contained 2 metal frames which we wondered whether they may be for stretching pelts/hides ? We grouped togther all the other tools that we couldn't identify and wonder whether these too have leather working associations. By way of background we believe that the contents of the box are 50 years plus and the other tools included in the box were saws , planes and metal blacksmith items such as a vice and varius tin snips. My wife and I are retired and enjoy doing up old tools as a hobby and returning them to circulation. Any help woud be greatly appreciated. Bob and Bryony

Here is how I made an excellent straight edge, I hope you like it! It creates a straight edge that *will not move* while you are cutting along the edge. You put the straight edge in the corner vise and tighten the jaws after you put the leather to cut between the edge and the leather. TOOLS: 4 needed 1. Dresser or other heavy stable table/stand with a lip 2. Corner Vise Clamp (used in woodworking to clamp 2 pieces of a corner while gluing together.) 3. Retail store shelf bracket *standard* (they hold the brackets the shelfs rest on) 4. Cutting board HOW 1. Open the drawer and screw the Vise Clamp to the underside of the top of the dresser, stand, etc. 2. Put the cutting board against the clamp, completely tighten the 1st clamp to lock the board to the top of the dresser. It then locks the cutting board in place. 3. Insert the shelving standard between the jaws, tighten to where it is just slightly loose enough to raise or lower as needed. 4. Insert leather, push straight edge down to the leather so it is tight, and tighten the jaws all the way so it will not move. 5. Cut away! Total cost, since I buy everything usually at garage sales and auctions: 1. Shelving standard: $0.50 2. Corner Vise Clamp: $4.00 3. Dresser: left by roomate: $0 4. Cutting board: $5 Total cost: $9.50 Pictures show all.

Hey, I am trying to buy a proper Draw Gauge online. Quality is the most important thing to me, and I want to get the best return for my money. Is "Weaver Leathercraft" a good website to buy from? Thanks for your help, Karl

Hi everyone! Awhile back I purchased a Barry King small awl handle and awl blade. The awl handle is the small sized collet style with the flat side. The blade is the size 1 blade. The issue I'm having is the blade slips in the collet regardless of how tight I get the hex nut. I'm using the smaller end of the collet and the blade is super tight (difficult to insert by hand) but slips when I try to use it. I'm familiar with collets (Dremel tools, lathes, mills, pin vices, exacto knives etc.) what am I doing wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have a disability with my left hand. I have for the last 2 years or so tried to just keep working and hope that I would beat it. It has actually gotten worse and is now, trying to hold tools in that hand has just gotten to hard. I know that those things aren't being made anymore. I am putting some feelers out there to see if there are any used ones available. Thanks for the help. Randy