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Showing results for tags 'lining'.
Found 26 results
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(Link to video of bag im planning to make) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH09RV1JqgY&t=657s ( Hi. I have been planning to make this bag for my wife this Christmas, however it is the largest project I have made up to date to this hobby and would like some insight on recommendations for how and where to add stiffener and lining to this bag. Im planning to use a 2.5-3oz chrome tan, peltex 71f stabilizer, and pig suede for lining However, I am not sure as of yet what specific areas to add the stiffener (if I should just cover the whole bag with it, the whole leather cutout panels, etc.) and the same with the stiffener I would love to have some insight from some people more experienced, and attached some screenshots of the template below for more context. Template pictures:
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I have been mostly working on bracelets but want to start working on collars too. With a lot of projects I've been layering leather on top of other leather, for example I'll make the wide base of the bracelet and then on top of that I need a thinner piece that will go into a buckle. The issue is that when I make these items, I'm making them flat. But when I try to put them on, they need to be round. Since the two layers of leather are the same length it doesn't fold into a circle very well. I've been practicing with adding a little bit of length to the top layer to account for that, but it's mostly a guessing game. So let's say I start with a wrist that is 12cm in circumference. If I use a 1/8th inch thick strip of leather as the base layer, the new circumference that the outer layer of leather needs to cover becomes approximately 14cm. But if I cut the outer leather piece to be 14cm in length I have a hard time fixing the two layers together while it's flat. And if I cut both pieces to be 12cm then the outer piece of leather doesn't stretch to fit the new circumference when I try to wrap the finished product into a circle. I couldn't find any good guides on this online but I might be searching with the wrong terms. Does anyone know what the best way to handle this is? I've generally been able to make it work with layering leather but I want to start adding foam and lining some pieces, and I'll be adding a lot of width to the items so I'm worried just accounting for a little bit of extra length in the circumference won't work anymore. -
I'm in the process of making my first tote bag and seeking advice on the best approach. I'm planning to use 2-3oz semi-aniline chrome-tanned leather with a soft temper for the exterior. For the interior lining, I'll be using 1-2oz semi-aniline chrome-tanned calf skin with a soft temper. The dimensions of the bag are 16.5"W x 10.6"H x 4.3"D. 1. Should I consider using any stabilizer to maintain the bag's upright structure? 2. Additionally, I'm wondering what material would be suitable for the bag's bottom? 3. Should I glue lining with exterior or only glue the edges?
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Hi everyone, This Is my first post here on the site, but I've used it for awhile now. When it comes to lining leather, whether it's pig skin, lamb skin, etc., how is it that I burnish the edges without the lining mushrooming or crumpling when I go to bevel? I've read that you should cut the lining smaller than the leather piece it'll be attached to... but I've also read that to get a full contact with lining to glue it down to the leather, than cut down to the needed size. So, I'm not too sure. Any advice helps. Thanks
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Hello all I’m getting rid of of some leathers that I don’t use during this confinement period and because of Corona it’s been quite hard making sales as I’m sure it’s impacted everyone in the leather-working community. So for sale I have 3 Nubuck skins from Tannerie masure in Grey, dark blue and Bordeaux they are around 12-13sqft each and a thickness of about 2-3mm I’m selling each hide of Nubuck for 45$ I have one remaining Brown calf skin lining used for the insides of shoes from tannerie Masure in Belgium. As you can see in the picture it has one hole in the middle and is around 13sqft. The flesh side is ultra soft and has a lovely suede feel and is being sold for 30$ then I have a selection of remaining vintage snake skins from an Italian tannerie dating around 1983-5 they are in grey, beige and a polished silver look. The grey and beige skins are 5€ each and the silver are 12€. i ship internationally from Belgium and if there are multiple purchase I can definitely work out a discount! any and all questions are welcome!
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Hi, I'm looking for a supplier or manufacturer of Brewers Pitch B6920. Preferably in the UK or Europe. The only supplier I can find is http://www.traditionalmaterials.co.uk , but they are retail and far too expensive for the quantity I wish to purchase. If anybody has any contacts in the industry, please make contact.Thanks.
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Glue is not my friend! It's messy and too easy to ruin a piece with a rouge drip. It stinks and when I use spray adhesives outside, a wind usually comes up and blows the tacky surfaces into each other. If all goes well I often don't get the lining square with the leather and i have to glue in little patches. Sometime I line with fabric and the glue saturates the fabric is some areas ruining it. I have also tried water soluble cements, wood glues..all a huge PIA. I ran across HeatnBond at the Walmart sewing section yesterday. I tested it out with a hand Iron and it appears to be amazing! After cooling I was unable to separate either the fabric or the suede from the flesh side of some 5-6 oz vegtan. To that end, I ordered a 15" square heat press. If this all works out, this product could cut my production time down by 30%, cheaper than using glues, and potentially no ruined pieces. Has anyone used this stuff with a press? Short term tests indicate the stuff works great and withstands flexing, is inexpensive and the temperatures required don't damage leathers and fabrics. In fact, it appears to be easier to use a fabric lining then to dye the exposed flesh side of unlined products. (I use drum dyed leather from Wickett-Craig. I supply for resale to companies who have my products in their catalogs, so color consistency is critical) Thanks for your input, Bob
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So, staring a prototype for a small clutch (eventually going to do in croc). Pic below shows outer and lining. I’ve glued the lining completely to the two side gussets, but I’m curious if the lining gets fully glued to the main body, or just close to the edges where it’ll be stitched? Also, how do you account for the turn when the main body is folded; do you simply make the lining shorter than the outer, if you’re not completely gluing the two together? Thanks!
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I have an expensive buffalo leather messenger bag, fabric lining, I've used non-stop as a purse since I got it. Last night I slipped on mud and fell into a pond. (Not deep, thank goodness.) It took a couple of minutes to get out. The purse was underneath me and the zipper pockets were open. I poured water and mud out of it even before I got me out of the pond. We wiped off the surface mud as soon as we got inside. I'm not too worried about that -- I've got saddle soaps and leather conditioners and all. Packed the bag full of paper towels and left it in a warm room, out of direct heat currents, overnight. This morning the paper towel's soaked and it's dirty enough I can tell there's mud inside. The fabric for the lining is something the manufacturer gets -- printed with the designer's name. I need to get it clean without doing damage to the leather. Any ideas? I have e-mailed the manufacturer and asked them for help. Thanks!
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Hi everyone! I have recently learned how to sew leather and am looking for suggestions on what kind of leather would be good to line a bronc noseband for a halter. Thanks! Carsen
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I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
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I am making a folio case and need to line it with pig skin, but the Horween leather I am using is very very waxy and I am worried the glue will not stick. I am wondering if there is away to remove the excess wax before I glue them togeather Anybody had the same problem and what did you do to get round it? Thanks -
I'm curious as to what kind of leather would be recommended for garments and softer bags. Is lining leather appropriate or is it too thin? Being newer to leather work, where would one source such a leather? Tandy does seem to have a couple lining leathers and even milled veg but I'm not certain. I ask since most of the wallets i've made out of veg have been exceedingly stiff and the thought of making a bag that stiff is off-putting. I've seen some recommendations for using neatsfoot oil or carnauba cream to condition leather but does it soften it to be more pliable or just slightly so? Thanks in advance,
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I've just had a delivery of some lovely pigskin suede (suede both sides. It's beautiful and soft, I cant imagine a material that would feel better for lining wallets. My question is that I'm a bit paranoid that the edges of the suede will fray or go fuzzy over time? Will this happen or will the suede hold its shape? Do I need to do something like put glue on the top of the edges or treat them somehow or will it just hold its shape? Also when I burnish the leather edges wil this affect the suede as the burnishing tool may come into contact with it? Thanks for any advice :-)
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Hey fellas, I'd need some advice on how to sew in a lining/interior into this particular bag I'm currently making. The problem I'm having is that i chose not to sew the bag inside out but I went for visible edges on the bottom pannel. The bag has a long zipper that runs from side to side almost to the bottom (currently only taped on the pieces with double sided tape). The bag doesen't have a side panel but the front piece wraps around the corner of the bottom and meets up in the middle with the other piece. How should I go about sewing it up together with interior and all? I got a bit stuck as this is after all my first real bag (I've only made a simple turned unlined messenger bag) and I don't want to mess it up. Should i sew the interior with inner gussets and pockets together like a separate bag, insert it and then sew it along the zipper? Or line the pieces, sew on the bottom panel and then sew in the gussets + inner pocket? Here are some sketches and pictures of what i'm making: An exloded wireframe view of how i'm planning to put this piece together
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I'm not having good luck using the search engine, and I'm sure the answer I want is in the Forum somewhere. I make mostly knife sheaths, and I like a sewn on belt loop. Keeps metal away from the blade. The knifemaker just sold something to a guy who has a disability that prevents him wearing a belt. He's asked for a sheath with a metal clip. Since I don't like them, I've never done one. Is the answer to line the sheath? Which would mean two thinner layers of leather? And is there a way to attach them firmly to the sheath? The ones we have here look like the slide through a slot. What I'm thinking of is to cut two pieces of thinner leather than I'd usually use for a sheath,one for the lining; put the clip through the outside layer only; then contact cement both pieces together and go on stitching up the sides. The knife is a punch dagger, which will need a strap and Sam Brown stud (I don't like them either -- metal inside the sheath where it touches the knife blade). So I'd put that through the outer leather and secure it too, before lining. If I'm messing up here, I'd like to know. I've seen someone with a belt clip that isn't metal and seems to be attached to the sheah with a non-metal rivet. I've asked him about what he's using, but I bet you guys are faster. Thanks in advance, and happy New Year!
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Hi All, Making a knife sheath, where you stitch the front and back together, and then the back goes up and over and folds down with a closure to connect to the front. I'd like to glue and then stitch pigskin into the sheath to line it 100%, but after than I want to wet the veg-tan leather through the pigskin so it can be wet formed by forcing the knife into the sheath to stretch it. So, is this an awesome idea or an awful one? Normally I'd just try it and learn from the experience but if the experience is "the project gets wrecked" I would be very sad. I'm confident I can wet the leather through the pigskin, but not confident I can wet it through the pigskin AND the layer of contact cement that'll be holding it on. I could glue the pigskin just at the stitching, but I worry it will pucker. Anybody have any ideas? This is mostly an aesthetic choice, but pragmatically I'm just trying to cover the back of the Line 24 snap to keep it from scratching the knife, and if worse comes to worst I can leave the grain of the leather exposed and just recess the snap. Thanks in advance! Dave
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So, I found a nice piece of llama leather and thought of using it as a lining for wallet. The only problem with that is using on the inside doesn't let you see the leather as well. Can I glue it on the outside of a piece of a wallet without any problems? I would hate to glue this on and then have it come off after a week. Has anyone done this? What about when I stitch it all together? Any advice would be appreciated!
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HI Tried using a PVA glue but still comes through even if left to very tacky on the flesh side of to slide cards out. Veg Tan . If left too longwill not stick at all. The lining is a beige colour and is quite shiny. Not willing, yet, to go down double sided tape route yet. First time lining using a non leather product, should stick to pigskin but trying to design to" Steve Morelli " specifications that is very thin profile yet easy to slide cards out. Steve has a You TUBE channel and all he does , seemingly, is to review wallets. -
Hey guys, I've been making a few passport and card holders and for my last one I decided to line it with some Tandy Premium Mission Grain Pigskin Lining Leather, I glued it to the main piece and then trimmed the excess, I assembled and stitched everything and then burnished the edges, I usually get a smooth and clean edge but this time, with the lining, it looks like it's cracked, as you can see from the pictures I've attached. I'm not that familiar with pigskin, I'm guessing this particular piece is not of the greatest quality and that may be the reason why I can't burnish it very well, I'm from Portugal and before I bought this piece from Tandy I bought a piece from a local shop, it was really cheap but seeing as I had never bought pigskin before, I thought I was getting a deal (I'll attach a couple of photos later), when I got home I took a good look at it and it was kind of flimsy and had a greyish color to it, I also tried dying it just to see the results and it didn't turn up very nice, I wanted to know your opinions and if it's just the quality of the pigskin or if I should be using another technique! Thank you very much, Lourenço
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What's your favorite lining leather? I've heard people use calf, but I've only ever used pig. Any ideas? Any favorites?
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I'm wondering how to line a wallet. Take a simple card wallet for example. How do I go about lining a wallet with fabric, and sewing it. Also can someone link me to some quality suppliers of fabric? Thank you in advance.
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Hello Everyone! I made a lined bi-fold wallet for the first time today. It was actually pretty simple. There were only a couple difficulties. The first was figuring out how to turn over the fabric at the top so it would not fray. I ended up covering the top 3/8ths of an inch of the leather with paper and then spraying the adhesive on. I did the same with the fabric. Then I glued the two pieces together. Once it set I was able to then trim the excess fabric at the top so it was 3/4 of an inch. That allowed me to fold it on itself and then glue it down to the leather while also lining up nice and even with the edge. The second part that was a bit tricky was working with thread all over the place. In order to hide the stitching beneath the lining on the divider I had to stitch down the inside of both sides of the wallet without finishing the stitching all the way around. That left a bunch of thread hanging out everywhere. Before I glued the lining on I had to line up the divider and the exterior of the wallet on both sides and punch my first hole through all the layers of leather. Then I took the needle on the flesh side of the leather and ran it through to the card slot side so I had half a stitch. After you glue the lining onto the divider and then the divider onto the exterior you can finish the stitch which sets you up to stitch the rest of the wallet. The only other hard part was lining up the top edge stitching runs with the side stitching runs. Thanks for looking! Tell me what you like as well as what I can improve on! Joe -
Hello all! I have a few questions lined up that may have very basic and straight forward answers but to the novice they are quite confusing! What part of the tanning process makes a finished hide soft and luxurious to touch compared to hard? What part of the tanning process makes the flesh side rough or smooth (like the top side)? What part of the tanning process makes the leather firm or flexible and floppy. I have asked some people in the past but have never had a suitable answer, some have said it depends on the thickness of the leather but some leathers can be very thick and very soft to touch and vice versa with thin leathers, or very thick but still floppy or very thin and very firm. Also, what is the difference between bridle leather and harness leather, and do that both have smooth bottom sides? And does anyone have any suggestions for a waxy feel of shell Cordovan from either Horween or Clayton but from a cowhide rather than just the small horse shells? I am making leather wallets and purses and have found that 1.5-2mm or around 3oz is the perfect thickness for what I want to produce without the wallets becoming too bulky, what recommendations would anyone have for leather having the above mentioned waxy feel but with a bridle type flesh side, to avoid bulking up even more with lining. And if I were to line the wallets is pig skin or goats skin the best option, or is it just down to preference? From reading the posts on this forum I've become accustomed to there being no wrong answer but just many individual preferences. I am based in the UK so as well as this long list of queries if anyone had recommendations for suppliers that would be perfect too! Many thanks in advance! Ross
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Hi, I want to make a satchel with a soft pigskin lining. I'm curious what type of glue is suitable/preferable to attach the lining before it all gets sewn together?
