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Found 72 results

  1. Landis 12 Model F Curved needle sole stitcher - Needs love, I have the cover and the pulleys that go on the ground, I can send additional pictures of that stuff. $200 OBO Landis 12' line finisher with naumkeg and cutting wheels, everything works well including vacuum system. Wired for 120V. $700 OBO Autosoler comet-10 $50 OBO Pickup in Richland, WA or if you are nearby we could probably work something out for a delivery. We can work out a bundle price too, just let me know if you're interested. I will try and check this regularly. There are some other nick nacks in the shop related to shoe repair I would probably part with too, just not going to be a dream I can chase. Thanks, Conner
  2. I recently finished a new pair of foot-shaped shoes — photo attached (hopefully!). As ever, the goal was to make comfortable footwear that lets the foot move as naturally as possible while being stylish and unique. Wide toe shapes and flexible, totally flat soles are a consistent feature of my designs. I never make tapering toes, stiff soles, toe spring or raised heels — as these can all cause major issues for feet and for general health (e.g., knees, hips, backs) especially if worn for years or decades. In fact, I started making my own footwear because it’s almost impossible to buy shoes without at least one of these features (even if you can find flat, flexible soles, the toe area usually tapers too much). See my blog post at https://tozafoot.com/2019/07/02/experimenting-with-design-and-method-side-fastening-shoes/ for more photos, and a summary of how I made this pair. I’ve taught myself a lot, and invented some ways of doing things that would probably raise professional shoemakers’ eyebrows, but they work for my philosophy and toolset. I only use a few hand tools, no sewing machines or sanders or other power tools, and I only use solvent-based glues for attaching a rubber sole, after the shoe has been completed and is wearable (with a leather outsole). Again, see my website for more details. Cheers! tozafoot
  3. THIS is s stitching machine! This was used in production for the backseat on tall bootlegs of heavy military and riding boots. Pay attention on the direction of the rolling foot! Not sure if on this photo you can guess the actual size of this machine, but a normal patcher would look tiny next to it...
  4. Hi everyone! First time visiting Leatherworker.net, so please bear with me if my post is in the wrong thread, or if my problem is not suitablefor this site. I'm at my wits end here, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on whats going on here: I decided to try to dye a pair of painted whole cut oxfords, in an attempt to make them darker. The leather is originally painted, medium brown. I'm dying them with a very dark brown, Saphir Teinture franscaise. (I cleaned the leather with Saphir Renomat before applying the dye). After applying dye in three rounds, the leather (surprisingly) seems to take the dye well, darkening the color evenly. But on both shoes there is an area of about 1x2 inches that doesn't seem to take the dye. This area remains the original color (but with a super matte surface). When applying dye to the area the leather immediatly absorbes the dye and dries up. On the rest of the leather the dye takes 5-10 minutes to dry/absorbe. I've tried dying the problem area with additional two rounds of dye, but it just keeps absorbing it immediatly, without any change in color. What's going on here, and what can I so to solve this? Any tips or thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  5. So, this is the fifth pair of boots I am making. The previous four pairs were an evolution of engineer boots and so I decided to make some harness boots this time. They are ready for the midsole, soles, and heels!
  6. If anyone has ever wanted to give a go at Shoe making but felt a bit intimidated, I feel ya. I found a company called SneakerKit that sets you up with everything you need. Watch my build along and make yourself an awesome pair of leather shoes. https://youtu.be/4zs06dVIEdQ
  7. So I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but I have searched the entire internet for either similar boots or someone I could commission to make them for me. I'm looking for something based off of these: I wouldn't expect them to be exact because this is not a real picture but I really love these boots and I want something similar. If anyone could help with this or help me find someone who can that would be amazing. Price isn't an issue. My email is jacklynlemay (at) gmail.com Thank you!!
  8. Cylinder arm Industrial sewing machine Atlas USA AT335, including sewing table on wheels. Plus FREE flatbed table extension. And FREE bias binder attachment. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Atlas USA AT335 = equivalent to Pfaff 335 sewing machine. Description: The diameter of arm is 46mm. It is specially designed for join-sewing. This machine can be use for edge assembly. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Model: AT335 Sewing speed: 2000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 5mm Needle: DPx17 INCLUDES: HEAD,TABLE,MOTOR. **AS NEW: BARELY USED !!** $1,599 *NO SENDING, LOCAL PICKUP ONLY IN LOS ANGELES!*
  9. Hey' all My name is Nelson Agaba from Uganda. I am new to this community. I am a leather expert with 10+years experience in leather tanning and tannery operations. I have always loved leather crafting and I have just ventured into small leather goods manufacturing and footwear making. I want to seek all help and assistance from experts in ladies sandal making, wallets, belts and leather bags. I have 2 post beds, and a skiving machine and all the necessary hand tools but no experience in this. Any help (videos, patterns, etc to help me get started) will be highly appreciated. Thanks all.
  10. I'm pretty new to sewing. I have a consew 206RB in very good shape. The main purpose for me getting into the field is for shoe making. Before anybody goes there, I am aware that a post roller foot is the best machine for such work, but I didn't have post bed money. I bought a good machine that I could afford. I also plan to venture to other things which will require a flat bed. Anyways, the foot marks my leather. I have already read the manual and loosened the screw at the very top to relieve some pressure, which did help. But I was told that there is a screw to loosen for the outer foot and inner foot, and since I'm a rookie I really don't know which one I loosened. It's the inner or "walking foot" that leaves marks, they can easily be rubbed out of suede, but not leather. Anybody have some suggestions?? Even on tools that can rub marks out? Also, if you're interested in this machine shoot me a pm. If I can't figure out how to get this to stop marking my leather I MAY be looking to sell it to buy a machine that can. Located in Ohio. Thanks!!
  11. Cylinder arm Industrial sewing machine Atlas USA AT335, including sewing table on wheels. Plus FREE flatbed table extension. And FREE bias binder attachment. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Atlas USA AT335 = equivalent to Pfaff 335 sewing machine. Description: The diameter of arm is 46mm. It is specially designed for join-sewing. This machine can be use for edge assembly. Suitable for sewing shoes, handbags, leather shoes, leather bags, leather jackets, canvas, heavy jeans, leather craft, etc. Model: AT335 Sewing speed: 2000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 5mm Needle: DPx17 INCLUDES: HEAD,TABLE,MOTOR. **AS NEW: BARELY USED !!** $1,599 *NO SENDING, LOCAL PICKUP ONLY IN LOS ANGELES!*
  12. Hi All, I'm a newish shoe/boot maker in AZ, and I wanted to introduce myself and see who else out there is making footwear. My style is a moccasin style shoe/boot, that is patterned around making a cast of the person's foot. So, each one is built for the individual's foot. I'm in the process of working on some sandals, and little bags and wallets. I would love to connect with other shoe makers, especially if you're in the Southwest. Rai (like the bread)
  13. hello good morning, good afternoon & evening everyone, i picked up a machine last night thinking it was a singer 29-4 based on the photos & limited info from the seller, now i'm trying to find any info possible on this sutton-landis shoe machinery sewing machine model, so i can learn to oil it, thread it, purchase more needles & bobbins. any info is greatly appreciated & thanks in advance
  14. So, 10 months ago, I posted my first leather project... a pair of engineer boots. I didn't expect to end up with something I could wear and didn't care about the mistakes in stitching, pattern, etc. However, the end result was something unexpected and so I decided to do it again, this time with better materials, more care, a better pattern, etc. So, here are the results. My engineers, version 2. Very happy with how they turned out. Brown Horween Chromexel Horsebutt Japanese buckles Neoprene soles with Catspaw heels Unstructured toe
  15. I've always been intrigued by traditional hand woven shoes, but I can't seem to find anybody who teaches it or knows how to do it. I'll be a very happy man if somebody can teach me how to do it, and we can always work out something (payment). I think they are very beautiful, and suitable for a lot of occasions. Can anybody help me?
  16. Hello guys, I have a pair of my favorite double monk strap shoes in light brown. Having visited an expert in the field,he told me that the shoes are made of "seal leather"(As I researched I understood that's just oiled leather? But I'm not sure about that). He also told me that this type of leather is undyeable meaning there is no way you can dye it effectively. Recently,I have been going out with my shoes and alcohol based drinks (Vodka,Whiskey,beer etc.) have been spilled on the shoes and for some reason I can not understand,this has left stains on the shoe. The help I need is how can I repair the shoes. One solution I have found is to dye the shoes darker brown(Which is cool by me) but first of all the expert said it is unattainable and second of all as I have understood different leather need different care methods,which is not my profession so I do not know what to do. Do you have any ideas on how should I repair the shoes? Thanks in advance for the help and have a great summer guys, Petros
  17. First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. I am going to be customizing sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy. I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker. If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes. Thanks alot, John G https://youtu.be/jQMoLl3g8VI?t=11
  18. Hello, I am selling a Gritzner sole stitching machine in a good working condition. It was cleaned and oiled regularly. Pictures from the machine and stitching done with it can be seen at the following link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SbHjPHS4q-634VPuNwNaDd8E9KXapoFl Please let me know if you can't see the pictures. Price: 300 eur + shipping costs via transfer service (like Transfer Go, Transfer Wise, etc.) or paypal. Shipping from Romania. Weight approx.30kg Let me know if you are interested so we can find a good shipping solution. Best regards, George
  19. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  20. I built these wedge sandals in collaboration with a talented leather worker. I sent the "template" over that I had drawn up, he tooled the pieces to my specs and sent them to me individually just as flat pieces....I took it from there and built these from the ground up...I added the leather turquoise inlays on the wedge portion, attached all leather to build the shoe as well as all embellishments which include brass studs, buckles, custom conchos, hand cut venice lace, etc...There are a lot of versions of tooled soes out there now a days, yet I have still had about 100 people reach out to me to make them a pair. I am still learning to tool leather and am not near ready enough to do justice to a project like this for a anyone and am looking for a leather worker to collaborate with to make several pairs of these...I also have made several pairs of wedding and party shoes which I have included pictures of with full glitter heels and soles... Thanks for looking and hoe you all love the design
  21. Just wanted to share this one: Protons stitcher, exceptional 2 needle system, one from up, one from down below the stitching plate. Used for heavy footwear like military boot uppers. Up for sale minutes from my place. I don't have space anymore...
  22. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  23. Had a buddy that found a deal on a $350 pair of shoes for $35, they just didn't match his wardrobe so asked me if i'd take a crack at 'em...here's the result. https://imgur.com/a/6LQd18z
  24. Hello, I'd like to modify these shoes I don't use a lot and I'd like to remove the velcro closing sytem and install those "metal rings" to use laces instead. Question: after removing the velcro system there will be some small holes from the stitches on the shoes, is there any product that I could use to make those holes less visible?
  25. LOOKING FOR A LEATHER WORKER TO COLLAB WITH...READ ALL PLEASE... I built these wedge sandals in collaboration with a talented leather worker. I sent the "template" over that I had drawn up, he tooled the pieces to my specs and sent them to me individually just as flat pieces....I took it from there and built these from the ground up...I added the leather turquoise inlays on the wedge portion, attached all leather to build the shoe as well as all embellishments which include brass studs, buckles, custom conchos, hand cut venice lace, etc...There are a lot of versions of tooled soes out there now a days, yet I have still had about 100 people reach out to me to make them a pair. I am still learning to tool leather and am not near ready enough to do justice to a project like this for a anyone and am looking for a leather worker to collaborate with to make several pairs of these...I also have made several pairs of wedding and party shoes which I have included pictures of with full glitter heels and soles... pricing can be discussed with anyone seriously interested :-) Thanks for looking and hoe you all love the design
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