particle

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About particle

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 12/19/1975

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  • Website URL
    http://www.adamsleatherworks.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aubrey, TX

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Making holsters better!
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    Google

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  1. Great job Martin - very nice!
  2. Great looking holster Josh! Love the colors and the flow of the design! I also like to curl the muzzle inward. I think it makes the opening a little more resistant to collapsing, but I try to keep the opening large enough to get an old tooth brush in there to help clean out the holster over time.
  3. I've had two or three holsters over the years that I forgot to oil prior to sealing. I wouldn't normally worry about it, but I needed the leather to darken up a bit to match the rest of the set. If you brush on the neetsfoot oil, it will eventually penetrate through the acrylic sealer (usually overnight). I usually go back and apply another coat of sealer once the oil is completely soaked in. You should have no problem getting acrylic sealer to adhere to the leather if you oil it first. I oil everything I make 12-24 (usually 24) hours prior to sealing, and I have never had a problem with the bond.
  4. Very nice! Love the colors!
  5. Have you tried a different browser?
  6. Seems pretty fair to me (remember, price includes shipping). Comparing price per SF for an entire hide vs smaller pieces isn't exactly a fair comparison. http://springfieldleather.com/Piece-Bridle-English-Tan-1x1
  7. Great looking holster!
  8. In case you're interested, I'm attaching some reference photos of holsters I've created from that pattern.
  9. As long as you haven't sealed it, you can always dampen it again.
  10. This is a good video showing how one maker forms his. How long are you soaking the leather? I typically soak mine for 7-10 seconds. If you soak it too long, the leather won't hold any definition. If you don't soak it long enough, it'll be difficult to form and will burnish too easily. I use a vacuum press for initial molding, then follow up with a bone folder and a couple other very basic tools.
  11. If you haven't already, you should be able to file a claim against him, which will put a hold on the $80 in his account (if he has a positive balance in his PayPal account). If he doesn't respond to the dispute, you should receive a refund after a certain amount of time.
  12. Stu - I use a system like you're talking about. Cheap vacuum pump, then a veneering bag and pump hardware kit for the hose fittings, etc.
  13. I posted a while back that I had two of his burnishers. I got the website confused with someone else's site. My burnishers are actually from Pro Edge Burnishers. If anyone needs another source for leather burnishers, check him out. I'm very happy with mine. http://proedgeburnishers.com/index.html
  14. I prefer to stop my liner layer (two layers of 7-8oz) just shy of the tongue slot, usually leaving about 1/8" space from the end of the liner to the slot. This gives a little breathing room for the tongue to move without being obstructed by the lining layer. Folding over two layers of glued & sewn 7-8oz isn't really possible, so it has to be skived on the ends, and I never had good luck skiving the leather thinner at the fold so this is the method I use.
  15. If memory serves (I made these over a year ago), the one without a pen holder was made in one evening over the course of about an hour to test my pattern. I'm sure the leather was still damp from the dye when I sewed it. My machine is setup for sewing holsters and since I rarely make anything else, I don't like changing the settings unless absolutely necessary. I should have hand sewn them, but these were all just one-off mock-ups to test patterns prior to going on my website.