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I have used Salpa on a number of straps but find the straps feel too inflexible. I try to avoid the need for a thick reinforcement by using leathers that are split to the appropriate thickness. I use Velodon reinforcement for the entire length of the straps then.

Hello there! I’m new and started “working” with leather not so long ago (would be a pleasure to see you on instagram if you are there I’m @rehsemporium ) Anyway, I’m currently making some leather dog collars and would like to change something in my finish process. After I’ve tooled , dyed , painted my piece of leather would it be right if I : seal it with BeeNatural Leather RTC antique with fiebing antique paste seal it again with fiebing snow proff paste ? Or (I’ve never used RTC yet so I don’t know how it work ) if RTC makes the paint come off : seal the painted area (I use Angelus paints) with a coat of Angelus 4 coat seal with beenatural RTC antique snow proof ? I’ve used tan Kote as resistant and finish but I realized It’s not really the best for dog collars, it’s not waterproof, it does not actually seal the piece …. thank you so much ! P.S I know that trying things out is the best way to find a good result, but I’m in Italy and it’s not really easy to find specific products, actually, except for leather , I’m buy supplies outside Italy , so before buying any suggestions would be great

The length of the posted messages doesn't matter. The system is set up so that, long or short, a page has 20 (?) massages on it then it turns to the next page. Shortening the profile bit won't get more on the page, just be less to scroll thru to read them all

Well done. It's not easy working from pictures of a 3D object. Congrats!

Still looking for a manual for this machine.

Yeah, if it were just reduced to photo, posts, and location, it would trim it up nicely. The other stuff struggles with formatting/ line wrapping anyway; making it difficult to navigate easily with the eyes.

The profile fragments are sort of neat, "what are you interested in," etc. ... but if you look at the size of most posts on the forum, the vertical space is *mostly* taken up with the profile fragment on the left-hand side of the post. If that were reduced to something like "where I am from" ... and the rest of it moved to the profile page, you'd get more posts-per-page.

I visited Darwin once to see the saltwater crocs ... very impressive creatures, and, now I know that they make great wallets too!

Absolutely.

Thanks!!

It does look good!

Very inspirational. New leatherworkers should see this before they embark on a tool buying binge. It almost ought to be referenced in the "Getting Started" section.

I agree the first video does show long cables but the second video shows the control box and servo motor as one unit with the wiring from the motor directly into the control box. Looks like two different servo motor setups being advertised. @friquant which layout did you get?? The one with the long cables or the one with the on/off switch mounted to the front of the table??? Second related video in advertisement: https://www.amazon.com/live/video/0b443a3824a2418a9770702b7017ddf6?ref_=dp_vse_ibvc1 kgg

Very nicely done. Ain't templates wonderful grand things. kgg

These items are beautiful; even more so when you consider the limited number of ordinary tools that you had at hand, It's always the talent in the hands doing the work that matters the most, is, I think, what is clear here. 🙂

I doubt the feed dog is your problem here. When you say your thread size is a little larger than V92 (metric 30) it looks more like the thread is a V69 (metric 40). A picture showing the label on the thread cone might help. If I am wrong here then I can only say that on soft leathers the holes will close up nicely and stiffer firmer leather the holes will stay open more. You could also be running to tight a tension top and bottom which makes the holes more noticeable. Try loosening your bobbin tension about 1/4 turn and your top 1 to 2 turns until they look balanced and see how that looks. Note that that is a nasty looking leather your using I think.

It looks to me that there is enough cable room to mount the control box at the front in the video they show on the Amazon link. I do think there will be issues with that small a pulley though and being plastic I suspect slipping may be a problem. May need a rubber band in the V in the pulley or something like that.

Moved back to the family farm last year and started farming it. The farm has been in the family over 100 years. The last it was farmed was over 40 years ago. Lots of work and little time for leather. Plus my tools are 12 hours away in storage. A distant cousin who has been helping get things together mentioned some leather items he wanted, purchased some bellies on sale months ago in hopes of doing some. As a thank you decided to take some time and do some leatherwork. Only problem no tools, purchased a cheap set of stamps 15 dollars for 10 or so from amazon, and a starter kit for around 20 dollars, box cutter I had. It was a challenge to see what could be done, started out originally 6 years ago with a deluxe starter set from them with bad results. Making all of these had to be creative due to not having any snaps or accessories, or any type of finishing other than my cooking olive oil. The leather was Wickett and Craig 6 or 7 dollar belly overstock. Didn't have high expectations, but was pleased with the results. I am a tool snob, goes back to mechanic days. Dip can holder, Cell phone belt case, Buck 112 case, Schrade Walden knife sheath, Cell Case. All these from 1 belly with a couple feet left.

Contact these people in the link and they should be able to help you. Let me know if there are any issues and I will do my best to help further.https://sunvalleytrading.com.au/

This is one of my latest videos which shows one of the common methods we use for attaching zippers into purses and other similar products. This method works both quickly and reliably for keeping the zipper centered and both sides evenly tensioned.

A bell skiver will do it well if set up and properly sharpened. My video channel shows a lot of skiving examples - Wild Harry YT

Ditto all the above! without the knife to measure you did all you could. Looks great!

Thanks Frank. I have of the issues going back 10 years. I'll never part with them. I can look through and find that issue. Thanks again .

Basically whatever you can stuff between the cutters it will cut.

That may work but besides longevity the diameter maybe an issue with the bending ability of the belt around to such a small diameter and premature belt wear. It's worth a try but I would alter your design to add a larger diameter surface face on the motor side of the pulley with blades to help keep the motor cool while running. With that size of servo motor pulley (35mm) and a 4" (104mm) handwheel with the servo motor running at 100 rpm the speed at the handwheel will be reduced to 33.7 rpm. The controller will handle the speeds but it's configuration on the motor was done to reduce the manufacturing cost with no consideration of easy access to the settings. You are going to be on your knees trying to change any setting. kgg