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As Hans already referred to, in densely populated Europe, the three-phase power that exits the power plants gets transported all the way to the homes. AC power transmission is three-phase everywhere in the world because using three wires is more efficient than using two to transmit the same amount of power. It’s the last mile from substation to customer that is most expensive and where utility companies need to do the math: is is more cost-effective to put down four or five wires (three phases plus neutral in TT systems or the same plus additional ground in TN systems) or put down two wires? in densely populated areas it’s more efficient to lay down three phases as it allows for more power to be distributed before you need additional substations. In less densely populated areas, you can get away with two wires at higher than distribution voltage and the occasional transformer (eg a pole pig as I believe it’s called in the USA) that transforms down to distribution voltage in split phase (eg 2x120V, allowing for larger machines to be hooked up to 240V).

Hot foil stamping machines are widely used to enhance the texture and visual appeal of products in industries such as leather goods, packaging, paper, and plastics. However, many users—especially beginners—encounter various technical or operational issues. This article provides a comprehensive list of frequently asked questions (FAQs) and actionable solutions to help you get the best results from your foil stamping machine. Issue 1: The Stamped Pattern is Blurry or Incomplete Possible Causes Temperature or pressure is too low Stamping time is too short Poor quality die or foil Solutions Adjust the temperature accordingly: 120°C–140°C for leather, 90°C–110°C for paper Increase dwell time and/or pressure Use high-quality foil and ensure the die is clean and finely engraved Issue 2: Foil Peels Off Easily or Loses Color Possible Causes Surface material is unsuitable for foil transfer Incompatible foil used Lack of preheating Solutions Test a small area before full application Choose foil types specifically designed for the material Preheat both the stamping head and the material to improve adhesion Issue 3: Misalignment or Ghosting (Double Image) Possible Causes Die is not firmly fixed Worktable or hand movement is unstable Improper positioning system setup Solutions Secure the die tightly before stamping Use jigs or clamps for accurate positioning Choose a machine with positioning guides or an automatic system Issue 4: Foil Sticks or Leaves Fuzzy Edges Possible Causes Temperature is too high Uneven pressure applied Die edges are not clean Solutions Lower the temperature or reduce pressure Clean the stamping head and die regularly Polish or reprocess the die’s edges Issue 5: Machine is Noisy or Overheating Possible Causes Worn parts or insufficient lubrication Temperature control malfunction Overuse without breaks Solutions Lubricate moving parts regularly Check temperature sensors and wiring Allow the machine to cool down every 2 hours of continuous use Quick Troubleshooting Chart Problem Main Cause Suggested Fix Blurry image Low temp/pressure Increase temperature or pressure Foil peels off Material not compatible Test and change foil type Misalignment Die not fixed Use clamps or guide system Fuzzy edges Excessive heat Lower temp and clean die Noise/overheating Mechanical wear Lubricate and cool down machine FAQs: Additional User Questions Q: Can I stamp multiple colors with one machine? A: Yes, but you need to perform multiple passes using different foils and dies. Q: What is the average lifespan of a hot foil machine? A: With proper maintenance, machines can last 5–10 years. Q: Can I use a hot foil stamping machine at home? A: Yes, small manual foil stamping machine are ideal for home studios and custom projects. Final Thoughts: Consistency and Maintenance Are Key While foil stamping is relatively straightforward, attention to detail makes all the difference. Familiarizing yourself with common issues and solutions will not only improve your results but also prolong your machine’s life. More tutorials and expert advice, please feel free to share in the comments section.

Plenty of handbags are made on domestic machines with V69 or less. Unless it's a bowling ball bag, she'll be fine.

Very true! But it doesn't seem like B69 was a poor choice, from what I gather? This is a prototype, I already warned the wife about it ...

@JWheeler331 sent you a dm

Roger - I´ll keep that in mind. Now with English not being my mother tongue - I just hate to read written a while later and see my text as if written by an illiterate dork. Greetings Hans

Hello all! I am desperately searching for the book by Bob Park, Creating Western Floral Designs. I owned this book in the past and either misplaced it or loaned it out and have forgotten who. Does anyone know where I might find it in stock? Does anyone have one they would like to sell? Any leads are appreciated. Thank you! Rick

Just circling back, folks. I tried the contact cement route and it seemed to work fine. Just a few dabs on the lip of the interior (domed, slotless) female end, and a little on the leather, wait 15-min, and she tightens up nicely now. Don't expect to ever need to take those female ends off the leather loop they're glued to, so should be good to go. Thanks for helping me brainstorm this.

Naturally that depends upon how much weight you plan to tote around in your bag. You can always strengthen the handle attachment stitching by making a box X stitch. Also it matters on how the rest of the bag is stitched - no use having a monstrous handle if the stitches fail at the bottom of the bag and it falls apart there. Greetings Hans

Just finished restoring a Singer 51W56. I used wool yarn, I had it, it works and it'll last forever. Cost - $0.00.

I made a bag (sort of a tote bag), trying to learn how to use my new sewing machine (Consew 206RB-3). It came with lots of B69 thread. I'm used to hand sewing with 0.6 mm tiger thread and this stuff seems like spider silk by comparison. Is it thick enough for reliable handle attachment? The sewn tab is 2 inches long.

Yes, about 2 hours, to protect the integrity of the forum.

I was going to watch it later but once I started........his work with just one knife was fascinating to watch and yes, I wondered about the glue. It seemed to dry pretty quick and yet he kept it in a dish that is open to the air. And it never occurred to me to use a hard grinding wheel to sand edges, I may just have found a use for all the grinding wheels that I've accumulated (plus they'll last forever!).

Georgeous!!! but the first thing I noticed was the bottle sitting on a new paint job, LOL I hope it was the owner's and not the mechanic's. My dad would have killed me for doing that in the shop.

I think I saw the glue applied to both pieces that were to be adhered. It worked on rubber and leather ... makes me think it was a contact cement.

should naturally read : you will notice it FROM the grooves perpendicular to feed direction. Is there a time limit on editing - if yes - WHY ?

I had a. 72 Catalina that I would drive fast on dirt roads. One day I came around a curve sliding sideways and ran into the front tire of a road grader I jumped out and told the guy I had not seen another car all day long He laughed and said me neither!!

Maybe it way custom made for him in Mexico and he didn´t want to have the maker´s brand on it ? That way just my first thought when seeing the conchos. Greetings Hans

Bell knife not sharp enough due to burr left on the inside after using the built in sharpening wheel. When the leather is still thick enough, you will not notice it other than the grooves perpendicular to the feed direction - but when it gets real thin, the burr will grab it and make a mess. Also take a very close look at the stone. It has pores that tend to clog up and leather builds up on that - thus changing foot pressure when the lump is directly under the leather. Dry ice blasting is a very good way to "resurface" the stones by cleaning the pores. With the "grabby" again stone, you can then use less foot pressure. Greetings Hans

I know. The glue in an open pot applied with fingers, the granite stone which is used to work on as well as to sharpen the single knife and a block of wood. I think of all the tools that I have and still not getting that result. Makes me feel so humble.

Excellent video. I've watched many of these and am always impressed by the workers' skills Who needs a stitching clamp? Just use your feet. No lasts until near the end. One knife does all cutting and trimming As for the sewing without a guide; the more often you do something the better you get at. I had a bro-in-law who was a time served painter (houses, not scenes) and he could paint a 5 cm (2 inch) wide line down the centre of a wall 40 ft long and hardly varied the line by more than 2mm, and both ends were the same, height and width and at the same height on the wall, all done without masking or measuring I want to know what glue these workers use

Yes. Simple and beautiful. So much more difficult to achieve though! It is so nice to find ready made patterns. I had heard of music rolls but had no idea what they were. Thank you for enlightening me. 😃

I swopped out my Caddy's shocks for those of a Japanese van. They were a parts match by GM. The Caddy originally wallowed around like a drunk elephant, The harder shocks meant I could take a sharp bend at 60 mph instead of 25 mph We like stiff suspension on our cars here, especially for competition driving

You're welcome! Glad to be of help. What I like about these designs is most of them are so simple, so easy to copy and carve. At the same time, they are very pretty and elegant. Edit: I missed an item in the index, probably because it's so antiquated no one is ever going to use it: Rouleaux a Musique translates as Music Rolls. This was what was played on the very early phonographs, before the transition to recording disks. It was a wax roll, with the tune engraved on it by a needle. Later rolls were made of celluloid, which was much more durable. Music rolls were also used in player pianos. Yeah, definitely not many of those around any more!