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All glues are not the same and all edge paints aren't either. As said, most contact cements on the surface can be removed with a crepe block or eraser. Realize that the solvent in them makes them penetrate the leather a bit and that won't wipe off. It will block stains and dyes depending on how deep it goes. If you have to rub much to remove cements then the surface of leather will abrade. From there on will not take dyes and finishes the same as the leather around it. Edge paints - not all the same - I used the Fiebings a fair amount on smaller stuff. It was OK, kind of the standard then. Most of my larger projects had a dyed and burnished edge. My wife is now making a lot of smaller projects from chrome tan leathers. You would be hard pressed to make her switch from the Giardini edge coat system. Jerry Van Amburg spent about an hour with her at Pendleton last fall showing her the steps and tips/tricks for Giardini. Those edges are nice! She orders it from Buckleguy and they have a YouTube on it.

I tried using edge paint. Even bought one of the manual rotary tools to apply it. I may have done 3 project with it, and like @Dwight, never got feedback from a customer that said they missed it when I didn't use it. I still have a couple bottles sitting on the back of the shelf, but typically just dye the edge, then slick it.

Not sure what glue you're using but this applies the rubber/contact cement like Barge or Weldwood. I use rubber cement erasers, they pull the glue right up like it's never been there. The trick is to let the glue get tacky before using the eraser, if it's to wet it'll just smear. Also you just need a light touch so you don't mark your leather. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rubber+cement+eraser

Nice work, Indeed. Welcome from SW Missouri.

Welcome from Wyoming and nice work!

I've been there and still am. If you are handy, you can make a good portion of your tools, for free or very little outlay of money, including a stitching pony. I made mine from scrap wood, it sits under my legs on a chair, so no bench clamping is needed, and I can sit anywhere and sew. Most of the great old-time famous names made their own tools and stamps it was about the only way to get them before modern commercialism.

Apply edge paint with the back end of a paintbrush or a small wooden rod of some type. Dip it, wipe off the drip, and hold the rod at a 90-degree angle to the edge. Then, lightly run it down the edge. Contact cement can be removed pretty well with an eraser.

I have them,give me a call.866-362-7397

Admins, Please delete this account. Nothing has been posted to this account. So, it is my hope that you can delete the account without affecting any threads. Thanks,

Glad to be of some help. kgg

That looks like a nice machine. And it has REVERSE! I have the similar Singer 111W153 and 111W151 but neither has reverse. Looking back through this thread I don't see that anyone mentioned a speed reducer to go with that servo. You should read up on them in case you still find it a bit fast. Maybe with hand bags there won't be any need to dead slow sewing. Have fun!

Thanks RockyAussie for your ENCOURAGEMENT....yet again! It is MOST helpful!! I will try to keep you all posted...as I LEARN my machine....and try not to purchase too many others (dikman!)....although if I won a million dollars....I KNOW where that cash might go! 😄

Ok so I am way late to this discussion but for those interested in Lasers another option "may" be for you to build your own. This guy has Plans at https://www.furtherfabrication.com/ He is a set designer on major motion pictures and after working with many lasers in the industry decided to build his own. I actually own one that i bought off of a member in a facebook group. Works great , has a 90 watt tube. Usually when guys sell these they are moving and dont want the hassle of moving them which means you can usually buy at a good to great price and the work is already done. Anyway thought i would share. Also here is the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/FurtherLaser

First thing I would say is toss the glue . . . go to Weldwood contact cement. Much easier and quicker . . . and . . . more accurate to use as far as getting the result you wanted. A note worth thinking about . . . dye will not penetrate glue successfully. Sometimes a bit . . . most times not at all . . . so learn to be careful where you put it. I use cheap little acid brushes . . . get a 100 for 3 bucks or so . . . use one a day . . . get fresh one tomorrow. Edge paint . . . I don't bother with it. My customers in 20 years have never mentioned it one time . . . so for me . . . it's not worth the hassle . . . But on the very very seldom time I do it . . . little round wool dauber on a metal handle . . . dip in the dye . . . shake off most of it . . . and very light short strokes . . . and if you hold your mouth right . . . if the moon is in the right position . . . and if the Ohio river isn't flooding . . . it might work. May God bless, Dwight

A big congratulations on getting your first industrial machine. I look forward to seeing some pics of your bags and purses as you go.

This Techsew leather sewing machine was purchased about 6 months ago, and used less than 4 hours on a handful of projects. It's in like new condition. Letting it go since I don't have the time to use it. This Machine including shipping on Techsew's website costs over $3700. Selling for $2850. Local pickup only. Location Oceanside CA.

Saddle stitching, 2 needles, like most people. I have a speedy stitcher and it can make a decent stitch, too (it's a lock stitch, by the way). I prepunch my holes for saddle stitch and have not tried punching on the fly with an awl. With the caveat that I'm only at this a couple of years, I just find stitching ponys fussy and inconvenient. Clamp the pony to the bench and the work into the pony and half the time, one of those things is going to move. Then you only get so many stitches before you have to shift the work. Projects like hats and holsters don't fit in them very well. I'm sure they do for somebody, but not for me. Knife sheaths, wallets, small stuff fits ok, but still fiddly. I find it easier to hold whatever I'm working on in my hands either on a workbench or just in my lap. Just my rookie outlook on stitching ponys. That said, a stitching pony is probably a good investment for most people who intend to saddle stitch. On the subject of not overbuying, I'd refer you to a couple of recent threads by an experienced crafter, making nice pieces using a small set of beginner tools. There are so many tools and methods out there, it's just hard to know what to buy when you first start out. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/125186-leather-projects-using-50-dollars-of-amazon-tools/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/122892-back-at-tooling/ Practice - it's free except for the leather. Maybe grab a bag of scraps and practice sewing. There's a "Getting Started" forum. It might be worth poking around over there and maybe ask for advice on a beginner tool set.

Very nice job! I love the stamping. Hope to be that good one day!

Hello all! Thought I'd join the forum to try to learn more about working with leather. I had a friend that challenged me to try some leatherwork about 4 yrs ago. I was making some knives and wanted to make sheaths for them. I do a lot of woodworking, mostly turning stuff on my lathe and crafty stuff also. My wife and I made a move from W.Tx. back to E.Tx. and now it's been a couple years since I've been able to get me a shop and get back to my hobbies. Looking forward to learning things from the pros here! Thanks for letting me join! Here are some pics of a few of the things I have done. Don't worry, I can take criticism very well as it's my aid to getting better.

I don’t have the most dexterous hands, and as a result, I often end up getting edge paint or glue on the leather while making leather goods. In an effort to avoid wasting the leather, I’ve tried using rubber sheets to wipe it off, but the results haven't been great, and sometimes it even ends up damaging the leather. I'm genuinely reaching out for help—does anyone have any tips or methods for saving leather that has been contaminated this way? Thank you so much!

Thanks

Thanks Mr. dikman....addictive indeed....I can SURELY see how....! As a matter of fact...I have a servo motor on the way...it is in the post...and due to arrive at any time...! The clutch motor that it came with...well...I think I could stitch pavement together with it....WOW...it's fast...! Thanks for your reply and information! Happy sewing to you as well! 🙂

Congratulations - but be careful, buying leather sewing machines can be addictive!! As kgg said, the 563 has been around a long time but as long as it has been maintained it should serve you well. A bit of advice, replace the clutch motor with a servo, you don't have to buy an expensive one as anything will be better than that clutch motor. Happy sewing.

I want to say HUGE thanks to kgg and to RockyAussie, for sending me such HELPFUL information, as I endeavoured to purchase a previously-owned leather sewing machine. I recently bought a Juki Lu-563 and I wanted to share a photo with you...! I cannot WAIT to get it going....just need some oil and I'll be good to go! 'Hope all is well - with each of you (!) in the Leather-Sewing-World! Thanks again for ALL of your help....so GREATLY appreciated!🙂

Try contacting Hoffman Brothers in Chicago area. glenn