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Guys & gals I made this long wallet or at least i think that's what it is called. Conceria Walpier Dollaro in the color whiskey. 5oz main body 5oz cash slot 2oz card pockets What do you guys think of it? Stupid design? What would you change? Let me have it! Lmao or I think. Thanks.
- Today
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We recently pickup up this fabulous machine. After reading posts here on the group it appears to be a Wheeler and Wilson version from 1938 or earlier with crank drive, not a belt. The machine has no serial number visible, only an interesting stamped symbol under the top cover. Looking for a manual for this machine as we slowly clean, lube and bring it back to life!
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Have you tried Campbell-Randall? It has been too long since I talked to Dan (and should do that) but they used to sell a machine to sharpen those blades too. Also as a D-I-Y I visited a shop a few years ago. Every so often he would remove the guard and touch a cylindrical stone to the edge of the blades as it ran. One of the stones like you use on the inside of a bell knife.
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Before getting rid of an old leather couch I salvaged lots of leather from it. Not sure of the weight of the leather but it is reasonably thin and very soft and pliable. What type of needle is typically used to sew this type of leather? I have both leather needles and regular round point. I know the leather needle should be used for veg tan leather, but what would be better for thinner pliable leather like that used to upholster a couch/chair etc. Is there a disadvantage to using a leather needle that will cut the leather? With the round point it seems like it will pierce and stretch the hole, which will then tend to close up afterwards tightening around the thread (at least that has been my experience hand sewing leather using an awl to make a hole). Thanks!
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I have a Cobra 3200. I learned to sew YEARS ago from my mother when I was a pre-teen and it served me well over the years, but it was on a VERY basic singer straight stitch machine from sears. Forward/Reverse, zig/zag. The kind you sewed hems with and repaired tears. She sewed dresses for my little sister from those patterns from the five and dime. Luckily my wife is VERY talented and taught me a lot more when I got the machine. She sometimes uses it to repair harnesses and bridles for friends. She sewed a custom designed lifting harness for a friend to use in his hay business to weigh round bales to insure they were the correct weight for the farmers. 1100 to 1200 pounds. They made the harness from Jerk straps you use to pull cars out of the ditch.
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Neither . . . Feibing sells their own reducer . . . I wouldn't use anything else. Others get away with it (or say they do) . . . using other stuff . . . THIS works . . . first time . . . every time May God bless, Dwight -
Singer 51W SV 2 Post Bed Machine Restoration
LansingDrive replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Did we ever find a manual for the 51W28, the Wheeler and Wilson version of this machine -
Hmm, I was using that size, but before I made the adjustment to the bobbin, I'll retry that.
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Leather gloves pattern (casual or work)
AEBL replied to Sammetje999's topic in Patterns and Templates
Hahn's Atelier has two glove episodes on his YouTube channel. This one is closer to garden gloves. He either has free patterns or sells them - check the comments in the video. -
For "authentic" patterns I found this book: "Craft Manual of North American Indian Footwear" by George M White. It is a bit hard to find. https://www.abebooks.com/book-search/title/craft-manual-of-north-american-indian-footwear/author/george-m-white/
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Pattern for handbag with kiss-clasp - where can I get one?
AEBL replied to SUP's topic in Patterns and Templates
kkomeda on youtube has some design advice for those sorts of bags out of leather. If you navigate to her page, you have to click on "videos" to see it. She usually has a short video and then a longer video with better explanations. -
But, did the gun fit or was it too thick when worn after the gun was in it? DAve -
Anything that can dissolve grease is bound to be a pretty strong (nasty?) solvent.......
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kgg gave you more detailed info than I did (I was trying to keep it simple ) but here is a bit more. The manual refers to top, bottom and needle feed, the bottom feed is presumably the feed dog BUT because it only moves in the back/forth motion it will not give the same assistance to the movement of the material under the needle as a conventional triple feed (does that make it a 2 1/2 feed?). I have what is referred to as the "old style casting" which means the specs are a little different (basically less lift/clearance under the feet). I managed to get mine sewing #138 but I had to readjust the needle bar, timing and feet lift. It meant the feet didn't touch the needle plate so couldn't sew thinner material - in short it worked but wasn't worth the trouble so I put it back to #69 thread. You "should" be able to get it to work, with the correct feet, needle plate and feed dog (available from Kwok Hing, by the way) but it will never be as good as a proper upholstery-class machine. It is designed to be a binder. Sorry. -
Yep my cobra class 4 intimidated me for about a year before I finally jumped in head 1st & started using it. Lmao I am glad I had about 8 years of scrap saved back for practicing. Lol
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AndrewGray joined the community
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I bought the templates for that pattern and will probably use them soon. I have a machine to sew those. I hand stitch things I'm not confident I can use the machine on, which is about 2/3 of the things I'm making right now. I need to sit at the machine and sew scraps to get better at it. BTW, that belt looks awesome.
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I agree with @dikman this is a binding machine. I did look at the spec part of your "Made in China" advertisement: 1) particularly the "Presser Foot Lift" at 15mm. Allowing for a necessary 3mm (1/8") gap from the presser foot to the top of an item being sewn leaves 12mm as a very max sewing thickness, not necessarily leather. Your 12 oz of leather would have a total 4.78 mm ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness ) so you would be well within having enough space under the presser foot. 2) the video on the "Made in China" advertisement. Shows this machine as what appears to be needle feed machine not a compound or walking foot machine made for Fabric applications. 3) The only reference I could find about the needle system was it takes system DP 17. The DP17 is the same as needle system as 135 x 16 for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric. I could not find any reference to the max needle size but looking at a PFAFF 335 manual it max out at a #16 (100 metric) which means it can handle V69 thread. 4) Here is a good reference chart for needle to thread size ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) My personal opinion is that this machine is meant to do "Fabric" work of flat binding with no major thickness changes like going from 1.6 mm to 3.2 mm (4 to 8 oz leather) using a max thread size of V69. The machine probably could handle V92 in certain types of materials. Just because you can stuff a # 22 or 23 needle in the needle bar that can take V138 doesn't mean it will have the necessary needle to hook clearance. I think this is the wrong machine for sewing leather of that thickness. To do the job properly and consistently with V138 thread in 12 oz of leather you need in a cylinder arm a Class 341 or 1341 machine like a Juki LS-341 or 1341 or clone. kgg -
Here is a manual for the Pfaff 335 - https://www.manualslib.com/products/Pfaff-335-3541803.html - there are more available and likely you-tube videos (I haven't looked). It sounds like the presser feet might not be adjusted correctly. The feed dog on these binders is set for back and forth motion, rather than the normal elliptical motion of upholstery-class machines. It is a minor limitation but you should still be able to sew with it, but you really need the "proper" feet and needle plate if you are not going to use it as a binder. There have been other posts on here about that issue (search for 335 issues in the sewing machine section).
- Yesterday
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Are you referring to the attachments inside the red circle? If so, yes, it comes with them. The machine also has issues when sewing different thicknesses; for example, when transitioning from 2 layers of leather to 3, or from 2 layers to 1, the stitch length changes, and sometimes the presser foot doesn’t lift high enough to move from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 layers. What kind of adjustments would be necessary for the machine to work correctly? Thank you in advance! -
Yep nice work! I saddle stitched something like 4 belts & told myself I am getting a sewing machine or, my hand sewn belts need to go up in price.
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That machine is a copy of a Pfaff 335, setup as a binder. Does yours have the binder attachments too? While the machine, as it is shown, will do normal stitching it is not ideal and really needs the feet, needle plate and feed dog changed to do that. It should handle the material thickness ok (should go up to 8mm thickness) but to use #138 thread may need to be re-adjusted as it would have been setup for #69 at the factory.
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haha thank you, yes handstitched. I didn't know that pattern name thanks for sharing. I think I will not stitch all the way to the edge next time, it was annoying to try and match the stitching.
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I know what will take the cosmoline out, but it is going to take the leather dye & everything else that's been applied to it, finish wise.
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Yes, it does sound odd. After 90 years you would think they would have found something better that doesn't have the potential for staining the items (whatever they are).
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I've been using a contact adhesive made by Sika, nothing special other than it is thinner than the Selley's stuff that I've used in the past. I've taken to thinning it with Xylene as it slowly thickens up, seems to work ok. I've made a few belts, mostly gunbelts, using two pieces of veg-tan glued rough side to rough side with no problems. I suspect most solvent contact adhesives will work fine, regardless of the brand, I've even used the cheap stuff from discount stores.
