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Hi folks, looking for reviews on the Mach 3 C 441. Like sewing thickness, how it handles thicker leather, any resources online or manuals would be great.

Checking out some Duane Watts knives online and can't seem to wrap my mind around how the blade/yoke is held in the bearing side. I see that they are interchangeable, offering the option to swivel the blade, or swivel the yoke like a traditional knife. When swiveling knife, I am understanding the yoke is sleeved into the body and secured with set screw to hold it stationary. I see there is a bearing pressed into the body on the other end, and a hole that appears to be for a set screw, but see only brass inside hole. Is the blade/yoke only held in by friction to the bearing or is there a retention ring, etc. that secure it?

Hi, Im looking at buying a used Mach 3 C 441, can anyone give me insight? Ive had the Cobra Class 4, but had to sell sadly last year. This Mach 3 looks pretty capable and nice. Im looking for answers to sewing thickness and anyone have information for a website, or manual, I could go to to research its weird because I cant find anything one it. Thanks

Got our Juki LS-2342-7 in this weekend. Great experience ! We were able to test machine and load and bring it home directly. The dealer included a CP-180 instead of the CP-18. They also gave us the Operation Manual, Parts Manual and Engineers Manual for it on a USB drive. Wife has done a couple of small projects already. She says it sews tight very well which is key to her bag making. Note that the machine comes with a minimal flexible neck LED light. It is made for 120-220v and is very dim. Hunt will begin for a great flexible LED light. Again, thank you for treating this newbie so nicely. Cheers M

Oh thanks! I didn't see that video when I was looking around. I have a stamp very similar to the one in the video, but my burnishing isn't as good. I think getting a good stamp might be a future purchase - cheaper stamps are very frustrating to line up. I did make a point of marking a reference point on the stamp so that I can line it up the same way each time.

The make of machine would be helpful, as would be pictures, however you need to become a member to be able to post pictures here.

I bought a vintage leather strap cutter and want to add and replace more blades. I have found blades but they are 70mmx40mm and my blades measure 88.9mm (3.5in) x 44.45mm (1 3/4in). I've looked online everywhere and cannot find anything close. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And can these dusc blades be sharped?

One thing to check before you do any timing,turn the stitch length to "0" & make sure the feed dog in centered in the slot.

Thanks for that! That's the detail I need to understand the mechanics and settings of how these things work.

Here's an engineers manual on the theCB341 that should work on this model too. Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf

Ok, thank you

@Trucker, moved this to leather sewing machines. Help Wanted is basically if you're looking to hire someone and requires moderator approval.

I've just purchased the Cowboy 6900, (4800?) the first electric machine ive ever used. Been quite the learning curve! Mainly teaching my left foot... Had an Outlaw for several years but found its limits with bag making and thinner leathers. I have made 3 or 4 bags quite successfully and am loving it so far. So much easier and more accurate with 2 hands holding the work Problem is I had a jam that tripped the clutch. Mistake learned! Reset it but now the stitch length is way too short for the dial numbers and it's not walking the material thru properly. Looks like the dog is sitting too high and maybe not timed right, seems to grab the material and pull it back to the front. It stitches okay so hook timing is good, but a 6 on the dial is only about 2 or 3mm on the leather now. Something has shifted. Watched and read everything I can, but not sure what, where and how to adjust to make it right. Help please?

Thanks heaps Glenn I noticed the 1295 similarity, but the problem still applies, no operational manual on both machines. Thanks for helping me out, much appreciated.

That is a very early mini table top attachment on a Kobe LS-1341 which in reality is a Juki LS-341 clone like the Techsew 2750. I have various setups of small table top attachments. Depends on what I am binding on which machine and how much tape I need. Photo 1 shows a platter, tape guide and a micro binder nose attachment on a Kobe LS-1341 Photo 2 shows is a better view of the micro binder nose attachment Photo 3 shows a mini table top attachment on Techsew 2750 Pro with a multi purpose tape guide / tape dispenser / tape tensioner. Photo 4 shows a mini table top attachment on Class 441 clone that has width guides on the table top and a multi purpose tape guide / tape dispenser / tape tensioner. If it is flatwork the flatbed machines are a better choice most times. I was probably just lazy and didn't want to setup a flatbed machine to do one item. kgg

1. Daily Cleaning of the Hot Stamping Machine Turn off the power: Ensure the machine is powered off and completely cooled to prevent burns or damage to components. Remove residual foil: Use a soft brush or air blower to remove foil residues from the stamping head and surrounding areas to prevent quality issues. Clean the stamping head: Wipe the stamping head with an alcohol-dampened cloth to remove carbon buildup and glue residues, ensuring even stamping. Clean the platen: If the platen surface has glue or impurities, use warm water or a special cleaning solution to wipe it clean, ensuring even pressure distribution. 2. Regular Maintenance and Care 1. Weekly Maintenance Check if the guide rails and screws are loose, and tighten them if necessary. Apply appropriate lubrication to moving parts such as bearings and guide rails to reduce wear. Clean internal dust to prevent damage to the motor and circuitry. 2. Monthly Maintenance Check if the heating system is functioning properly to ensure precise temperature control. Observe the pressure adjustment mechanism to ensure even pressure and avoid stamping failures due to uneven force. Inspect whether the conveyor belt or transport system operates smoothly and adjust or replace it if necessary. 3. Quarterly Deep Maintenance Conduct a comprehensive inspection of the hot stamping machine, including the electrical system and mechanical structure, to ensure no abnormalities. Perform deep cleaning by disassembling key components for dust removal and lubrication. 3. How to Extend the Lifespan of a Hot Stamping Machine? Use high-quality hot stamping foil: Low-quality materials may leave residues, affecting the stamping results. Maintain proper temperature control: Avoid excessive heat that may damage the stamping head or insufficient heat that results in unclear patterns. Prevent overloading: Running the machine at high loads for extended periods will shorten its lifespan. Plan its usage reasonably. Regularly calibrate pressure: Maintain even pressure to prevent unclear stamping or material damage. Store in a dry, ventilated environment: Prevent moisture and rust, which could impact circuit stability. 4. Common Issues and Solutions Issue Possible Cause Solution Blurry stamping Temperature too low, insufficient pressure Adjust temperature and pressure to improve quality Uneven foil peeling Material issue or dirty stamping head Use high-quality foil, clean the stamping head Unusual machine noise Lack of lubrication or loose parts Add lubricant, tighten screws Unstable temperature Damaged temperature sensor Check or replace the temperature control system 5. Conclusion Cleaning and maintaining a hot stamping machine is key to ensuring quality stamping and improving production efficiency. By following a routine of daily cleaning, regular maintenance, and deep servicing, along with proper operating habits, you can effectively extend the machine's lifespan, reduce repair costs, and enhance product quality. WELCOME TO SHARE YOUR STAMPING DETAILS :-)

Thanks kgg, I appreciate all the comments. I have a binding platter on the way. In the picture, is that a 335 or 246 style cylinder bed machine? For bags and backpacks, I can see the desire of a cylinder bed machine. Is there an advantage when using it with mostly flatwork as well? Thanks, Dave

A fully Canadian leather wallet. Beaver tail exterior, salmon leather interior. Hand-stitched using OA Leather thread. $380 USD OBO. Shipping free.

Sounds great! Thanks again.

Price reduced to $4,400.

Thank you!! I have included pics this time 😊

I would not put so much of the decision on what drive each machine has under the table. But would make the decision on the condition of the Head. ( me ) , drive motors come and go, and can easy be changed out. Machine Pic's would help a Lot . Both are solid workhorse machines / The older Head is no doubt the 111w115., and it most likely does not even have reverse . If the Pfaff was pretty clean Head, and not beat to hell. I would take the old 145H3 on my 1st choice. .

My life has changed (partially to negative, partially to positive) and I have to sell several vintage sewing machines (heads only) that have "piled up" over the recent years. I just have toooo many and especially too many I'm not actively using. All will be in sewing condition (depending on what you want to sew) but may need some adjustments, cleaning, or refurbishing. When ever possible I´ll make a quick video showing how it works / is sewing. I can ship overseas and I do proper packaging (I can give references. I have sold to several long time LW members before). Listing the machines will take some time. I have no triple feed /walking foot machines for sale. Most are patchers (CLAES, Singer, Adler...). Quick list of models (may not be complete): Patchers: CLAES 8346-30 CLAES 200-3 Adler 30-15 Adler 30-7 Singer 29K71 maybe a Dürkopp 17 w. medium hook (actually size of a large CLAES hook) Other machines: Singer 45D90 (with reverse) - same as 45K90 but German made prior 1945, parts are the same. Pfaff 138 (black) Dürkopp 207-5 with roller foot (similar to Singer 96K) Anker M with roller foot Pfaff 230 (early black with wider timing belt and NO plastic gears) Anker RZ List is not complete yet. I may have some interesting accessories as well (branded thread stands and so forth). ATM it is just too much to list. If interested send me a PM and I´ll figure shipping costs and I´ll give you a price for the machine INCLUDING insured shipping. Not included will be import import taxes, VAT.... you name it and all that depends on your destination - so that is all up to the buyer and not my part. I know I have to list prices and pictures but I work long time (incl Saturdays) and I may answer slowly so please be patient with me. So when ever I get a request I´ll post the pictures here and add a price. Bear with me - life is hard at the moment. I hope that works for you folks & the moderators. 😉

It is a good idea to dip the leather in Vinegaroon and then rinse it in running water to remove excess vinegar. Vinegaroon is not a dye and need not be applied like one. Since the color happens because of a chemical reaction, the excess should be rinsed off. With a dip for a few minutes and rinse, the leather does not harden very much. Using Neetsfoot oil before Vinegaroon gets a better color and also prevents much hardening. At least, that is my experience. I use only Vinegaroon to dye my veg-tanned leather black. Neetsfoot oil might soften your hardened leather some. Not sure how much though.

I have been looking up the ingredients and SDS of many leather products and a major proportion have mineral oil or some other petroleum derived products and no harm done. The products advertise the presence of beeswax and other oils and butters which are usually in smaller proportions, banking on the fact that most people do not even know to look at SDS sheets or even read ingredient lists! What have you experimented with up to now, if I might ask?