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Very Nice

I had the same problem, thank you for your help!

Wow, that is amazing.

Congratulations on getting it working. Sometimes a long drawn out ordeal can be a great education!

Hi Hans My machine Adler 5-27 are breaking the thread instantly when starting to stitch even with loose thread. It looks like it is when the needle is going in. What can be the reson for this? Regards Fleming

I believe I fixed the problem, why the needle wasn’t picking up the tread on the bobin. I must have upset the whole timing, when i loosened two screws under the shaft of the shuttle hook, and loosened two extra screws I shouldn’t have touched. when i was moving the horizontal cog to turn the shuttle hook shaft. I also moved another part bolted to the shaft that sits against the horizontal cog, the horizontal cog turns a vertical cog at the bottom of the shaft of the shuttle hook and when I moved the horizontal cog a little bit to one side I accidentally speed up how fast the hook turns round. and after a few hundred stitches it would skip a few stitches and then wouldn’t pick up the tread from the bobbin. didn’t take me long to sort it out, luckily. I have my 236g131 working again. a fantastic lesson learned, from a great mistake. I will add photos later on this evening.

Hello RockyAussie, im was sure I had changed the 287 needle out to the 134 before I took that picture. You are correct RockyAussie, the 287 doesn’t have a scarf, or very much of a scarf at all. so that was the 287 needle in the machine before I changed it first two pictures are the 287(16x2) and the last few pictures are both the 287:right and 134:left the shaft off the 134 is very much wider in diameter.

Just put the antique on a Silva Fox pattern of a cowboy enjoying a coffee. This one forced me to get better at folds in fabric, seemed like 1/2 my time was doing folds. I have heard not to use "it was a bad piece of leather" to justify a poor result, This piece was done on a bellie, it tooled differently all over the piece. Bottom right was firm and uppper left was spongy. For me the cost makes up for the aggrevation.

I may be mistaken but I can not see the cut out scarf of the needle on the right side in your pictures above. The hook and the needle scarf always need to go together.

Ok, so this may seem like somewhat of a moronic question, but I’m still learning how to use NFO… Should I be oiling before or after casing/tooling? Will casing just push the oil to the surface? Maybe it still is my first rodeo… — AZR

OK!! A little update and I'm really excited. So big thank you Mr. Wiz! I printed the documents you sent and they were very helpful! After cleaning my machine and tinkering with it, it actually works!!! My mind in blown and I'm excited. So far, I only needed to get the thread wire in order to push the thread down the pipe. So, after looking at the specs you sent, I think I'm missing a few nuts and bolts to make it perfect, I need to dissect it more and figure out the details, but, my next big question is, how do you allign the machine? I'll post pictures, but it seems that the needle coming down and slightly grazes the hole it goes into where the bobbin in. Any ideas on that?? Thanks again!! drive-download-20251021T020528Z-1-001.zipdrive-download-20251021T020528Z-1-001.zip File_003.heic File_004.heic IMG_2004.HEIC IMG_2005.HEIC IMG_2006.HEIC

I don’t think it needs that level of precision. - similar to asking what ratio of soap and water do you use when washing your hands. When I’m casing my leather, I have a continuous pressure misting bottle. I mist the leather till I get the hydration where I want it. Then, I have a bar of glycerine soap. I take a small 1” paint brush, dip it in water swirl it around on a bar of glycerine soap until it’s a little sudsy, and I take the glycerine soap suds mixture and wipe it on the leather. If I was using Liquid glycerine I would make a similar combination.

The design and construction of your pictured piece are what gives it most of its rigidity. It may have some reinforcement of the floor (cardboard or fiberboard), but I suspect the sides and ends are simply just good veg tan. I would think it will develop a measure of softness and give over years of use, but the horizontal pieces at the bottom of the ends and the billets wrapped around the sides add significantly to the stiffness.

Hand-tooled leather birthday cards are always well received. I think they'll do just fine as is. Just a few weeks ago my daughter said "that's the coolest card I've ever received" about a simple silhouette-carved rose and lettering on a 4"x5" piece of scrap. It's the thought and handmade effort that count the most!

I have discovered that the conditioner from Chemical Guys and Resolene works. I apply the conditioner, including under the scale areas. I allow it to dry for 4-5 hours. Then I apply a layer of Resolene in the same way and allow it to dry for a day. A thin layer of Resolene though. The result is a leather that glows softly and is less vulnerable to damage. Hope this information helps anyone else who is working on Pirarucu. If anyone else has better ideas, do share.

Search for 'casing solution'. on this site. You will find many recipes as well as guidance on how best to use them to get the best results.

Given it's age, and the fact that the link doesn't work, I reckon this thread should be removed completely as it doesn't serve any purpose?

Thanks . . . didn't know the real name . . . just what Joanne used to sell it as. May God bless, Dwight

hello all tryed my hand at a making a freind a leather birthday card, along with a home made box. any thougts how to make better? after seeing some peoples work thought maybe should of matted around the letters but, only after was fully done, not sure if would damage the letters if I did matting.

This thread is 7 years old. Maybe you could pm the op, but it has been 2yrs since they have been logged onto the forum. Good luck.

What ratio of water to saddle soap do you need to use? Feibing's liquid glycerine saddle soap. Will that work just as well?

Thanks AlZilla, they are indeed needle bar height and where the hook meets the needle. I’ve had it since 2021, but only noticed the marks this week after many attempts to set the timing. The 287 needles are far too thin, and the same length as the 134 needles. I have it picking up the tread from the bobbin with the 134 LR needles, don’t know what I did to make it work, since I was stopping and starting during dinner time. but it’s still missing stitches. So I’m still playing around with it. the 287 needles might not go to waste, I was told they would fit my Singer 331K16, so that’s great. thanks for everyone’s help so far, it can be a little bit frustrating, but I think I’m still enjoying myself.

I'm not sure if anyone will see this, since the last post in this forum was 17 years ago. Does anyone know if there is a guild in the southern nevada area?

When I use chrome tan for bags I usually laminate it with a layer of compressed cardboard and another layer of chrome tan, the lining. The larger the bag the thicker the card Compressed cardboard has been used for re-enforcement since at least the 1860s

During WW2 an American pilot was shot down. He crash landed on a remote island where the natives took him prisoner He was taken before the chief who said to him 'Give me one good reason why we should not kill you and eat you' ( the natives always speak perfect English in the movies!) 'I can show you great magic' says the pilot 'Show me this great magic and if it impresses me you can go free' So the pilot get out his Zippo lighter, 'I can make fire with this small tin box' and with one flick it lights The chief is amazed at this, his people all cry out 'ooh, such magic!' The chief says 'That indeed is big magic. You are free to go. My people will take you to where you can be rescued by your people' Later the chief's #1 son says 'Dad, we've seen Zippo lighters before. Why did you let the man go this time?' Chief says ' Yes son, we have seen Zippo lighters many times before. But never one that lights first time!'