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Wow, that set screams custom. What's not to love that's exciting work Great job.

I make cases for wind instruments. I use Wicket and Craig drum dyed veg tan for all my products. A current client has ordered 10 highly customized cases for export and one had to be red. I purchased a 1x2 panel of: Valdibrana Conceria, Tarano, Italian Vachetta Leather from the Buckle Guy: https://www.buckleguy.com/valdibrana-concerie-tarano-italian-vachetta-leather-panel-candy-apple-red/ I use HTV vinyl for some decoration on the grain side of the flap and the flap is laminated with a custom dye sublimation print on polyester fabric using a thermal adhesive sheet. I do something similar on all my Wickett and Craig products with no issue and have been doing so for years. The heat transfer worked perfectly on the grain side of the Valdibrana but after completing the case I folded the flap and there was absolutely NO adhesion on the flesh side, held in place only by the stitching. I had to disassemble the case and there was no trace of the adhesive on the flesh side of leather, it had completely adhered to the fabric. I realized there was probably some form of wax on the flesh side . I did some tests on scrap and used acetone to remove the wax. I tested lamination on scraps with the heat activated adhesive, Tandy Eco Flo, which I have found to be exceptional for demanding projects, and a few solvent based craft adhesives as well as Tanner's Bond. All seemed to adhere well to the acetone treated leather. I gave it 24 hours to cure and adhesion was good. I reassembled the case, laminated a new graphic (170 lbs @ 270F for 30 seconds) and adhesion seemed excellent. A few days later I returned to mount the hard ware and when I folded the flap it was clear that the adhesive had failed. I easily pulled up the fabric and injected a solvent based adhesive underneath and used a roller to spread the adhesive across the entire fabric covered area. I covered with a piece of flat granite with 10 lbs of additional weight and left for 24 hours to cure. The I left it uncovered for a few hours to allow the solvent to evaporate. The adhesion was minimal and immediately produce a failure at the fold. Does anyone have a suggestion of a flexible, bullet proof adhesive? Clearly the leather is loaded with waxes, especially the flesh side. I am willing to try any kind of adhesive, including construction adhesive. Plan C is to make another case and dye it red, but quite frankly, the finish of this Italian leather is fantastic..would not be out of place on a Gucci bag: https://poshmark.com/listing/Gucci-Soho-Red-Cellarius-GG-Logo-Leather-Chain-Tote-665df009d4b237570c0de87b?srsltid=AfmBOopRltHNRbM-wYsUmdGbLFBTBmDy9cWbp4lhx-eQ63TaTtKj24krs18&gQT=1#utm_source=gdm_unpaid Thanks! Bob

That looks incredible! Do you happen to have a pattern you’d be willing to share or or sell?

There are other posts about using planes for skiving if you want to search for them. I'd be interested in the angle of the frog and the angle the blade is sharpened to. I've also seen little planes using a razor blade described in various posts. I've played with these without much success.

A more acute grinding angle makes sense.

Go to your profile and set your notification settings. You can also set notifications for each post you want to follow by going to the top of the page and picking the follow button. Also to the bottom left for this button when you are posting.

@JHLeatherwood Sorry, I assumed I would get an email if someone replied to my post. Guess I need to keep checking back. I bought that tapestry here: https://www.redbubble.com/i/tapestry/Leatherworking-Tools-for-Leather-Craft-by-somecallmebeth/68340924.ODB3H

I finished this back quiver yesterday for my good friend, Joe Hollingshad, of Devil's Backbone Outfitters. I had made Joe a possibles bag and a knife sheath a while back and the last time I saw him, he asked me to make a quiver to match the other two items. Hopefully, he will be happy with this. Quiver details: The body and straps are made from bison hide. The black leather around the tracks is shark hide and the light colored leather is deer hide. The brown leather trim on the quiver and straps is caiman hide. The black trim is deer hide and I carved the strap buttons from deer antler. The whole shebang was sewn up by hand using artificial sinew. Darren

Hello. I am trying to find a reseller of Luigi Carnevali's reinforcement materials in Europe, but I cannot find anything. I tried contacting the producer directly, but they don't answer emails and only seem to be able to speak Italian when you call them I have found some of their reinforcements on rmleathersupply.com, but shipping from the US to Switzerland where I live is a bit expensive. Plus it doesn't make any sense to have it shipped half the world away and then back. I am mostly interested in the foam padding (Oslo), Velodon and either Brio or micro fibre to use for bags. I would greatly appreciate any help! Thank you, Pavel

Waving flag made in USA? I know on eBay that there are lots of people selling "vintage" running deer 3d stamps, etc., you might try looking for things like that and reproducing a similar stamp (I'm not suggesting outright copying the design, but rather a similar "running deer", "jumping deer") perhaps just look for high-price "vintage" and fill in the market niche with a new thing, probably crisper and more detailed than the original.

The cheap ones on Amazon from China are okay, I'm assuming that you have had one and that you are looking to upgrade, so I won't mention those. Sometimes when you get the custom-made ones you're looking for a particular steel (usually a trade off between ease of sharpening and edge retention - some of the "super" steels keep an edge for an incredible amount of time, but are also harder to sharpen, and I'd recommend a decent diamond plate for that) or, you are getting something that is pretty - either premium handle materials, or damascus steel blades, etc., a tool that makes you happy to hold. If you're just going for good utility and durability while being affordable - you might look near the ~$100 range. If you find your knife inspires you as a leatherworker more when it is also a work of art - it may make more sense for you to own a more premium tool, they're nice to look at. I have a custom Japanese knife from a local guy. It has turquoise on the handle and I like watching it slice leather, and it reminds me of my friend who I got the knife from. Buckleguy has one for $60: https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-japanese-skiving-knife-35mm-straight-blade-right-hand/ Tandy has one for $70 that looks great, Weaver has a very affordable one at $30 ... Sailrite has one for $100 (and it is damascus also) https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Damascus-Japanese-Leather-Skiving-Knife Leatherwranglers has one (is a bit more expensive - though it is probably fantastic)

I would imagine that the plane would have to be very very sharp, I know that the angle on my woodworking tools is a bit more obtuse than my leatherworking tools. My chisels are sharp, but the skiving knife is terrifying ...

Hello I'm an artist of Leather jacket patches of the type worn by pilots & aircrew during World War 2, I make a patch/es as they're called for, nothing pre made, USAAF-USN-USMC , your choice, some images of my works posted here, please contact me direct for info or to order etc, I accept payment in either US Postal money order , or Western Union money transfer , I DO NOT do paypal etc types . Johnny Signor WeBeEmblems@aol.com

Wow! nicely done. Looks great!

Beautiful

Thanks. I can't ever envision I would want or need even half of the upper end speed when doing leather work. If I make canvas covers or sails, it might be different but that's not at all in my future plans.

A very hard and durable type of wood found easily in Europe would be the invasive Robinia Pseudoacacia (false acasia, black locust). Easiest found commercially as fence posts over here in Belgium, which gives you a nice base to cut (smallish diameter) discs from to then lathe some grooves on.

Can't remember if I posted this already:

I have just found a wilcox and gibbs s335B also in my price range I very very rarely would be doing more than 12mm thick biothane and I can live with hand stitching those rare sections, I understand that I will be using thinner threads that I formation is most helpful, I can hand stitch with thinner thread and have been experimenting with 0.6 mm it works well I definitely want to go with cylinder arm machine because it will fit into all the small awkward bits of making a dog's harness and like people have said with the little DIY engineering to you can turn into a flatbed machine but you can't turn a flatbed machine into a cylinder arm machine.

If I'm not mistaken the sewing capacity of the machines you are looking at is roughly 12mm and you want to sew 15mm. The machines so far are what I would consider similar machines to the Juki LS-1341 or Juki LS-341 sewing capabilities with a max thread size on top and in the bobbin of V138 ( .4mm ) in max sewing thickness. You may sew 15mm occasionally depending on the needle thread combination, the type material and the toughness of material but consistently probably not. To sew 15mm which is touch less then 5/8" really you are into a class 441 machine similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. Since you are hand stitching you are probably using .8mm thread which is roughly V554 / T600 / Tkt 5. That thread size will exceed even the Juki TSC441 or clones which can handle V415 (.7mm). Another option maybe a one arm bandit in the Class 441. In that class you have three options Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw and the Weaver Cub but will still be limited to V415 thread. kgg

Thanks, Jonas. I will check out the logistics. Our President has made it more expensive to order from Europe. The diecast hardware isn't as strong as stainless, and the plating can chip off. Nickel bronze hardware is good quality but less readily available in my experience. Thank you for the tip.

I've tried using a block plane and low angle block plane for similar tasks with poor results. I should try using my violin plane. Glad to see it's working for you.

What a beautiful set! Really nice work! I love the elks' smirk.

Lets put it this way plain, if you want to do yourself a favour that you won´t regret : If you want to sew multiple layers of webbing - especially Nylon or some other slippery material - a compound sewing machine is so much more efficient - in my eyes a definite must have. Makes work so much more enjoyable, less frustrating as well - that is worth more than gold. A good cylinder arm with a clamp on table - maybe even a little and a big table - you got 2 machines in one - saves space and cash. Most all cylinder / open arm sewing machines have always come with some type of latch or tapped screw hole for affixing the table on the pulley side of the arm and different kinds of bottom table support on the needle end side - is nobody reinventing the wheel on that idea - most likely been around for as long as open arm sewing machines have been in existence. Hans

If you're in Europe the European Steamed Beech may be more available than maple, it would work just as well.