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@Irishleather It looks really good! A seat is a difficult project due to all the curves and swooping shapes, so I think he did ha great job. I think the colour is spot on. It will be a joy to ride once the entire motorcycle is completed. Brgds and merry Christmas Jonas

HaHa, did you see that? Like I said, we both limped after it was all done. Many adventures on that first attempt at a bag, or pretty much anything for that matter. That little project pushed both the machine and I beyond our capabilities but we survived! I'm just shameless enough to show it on this forum.

After reading that, I must admit that my hands have toughened up over the years, pulling on thread isn't so difficult , but these days it's arthritis, carvers cramp, and my left hand seizes up holding a stamping tool,can be painful at times. I like dikmans idea though. HS

Price drop; £650

Wow, that's stunning!

I'm embarassed to ask this when I have experiented with tooling this long already. Seems fundamental or elementary. I put red dots near what I mean. The slightly raised ridge lines with tiny stretch marks pulled along with them. It's good leather; HO. I did have to stick it in the fridge overnight after tracing lines, to work more later on when I had more time, but that's going to happen a lot in my life. If I'm moistening it too much, esp. to bag and refridgerate, I'll have to get a handle on it. t's more moist than the color looks here; a whack on a shader burnishes nicely. If it's because my blade isn't sharp enough... I don't know what to do. I have worked at that art of sparpening until it will shave some skin off my thumb. Surely that's at least as sharp as some guys who do great and claim personal sharpening deficienies. It is stroped to mirror smooth and all. I didn't start or end those visible lines very gracefully but, neverminding that -- ...could I be cutting just too deeply? It's 9 or 10 oz. and it just didn't feel like I was cutting through too deeply relative to the leather's thickness. But I guess going deep enough may force the line so wide, with a standard blade, that it eventually reaches the end of the bevel on the blade, even. Maybe that could cause pulling as well. I'm a little lost on something here that's obviously such a beginner thing I should never have gone this long without asking. Sometimes I luck up and only have this happen on one side of lines that I'm going to bevel enough to cover it up. Back beveling doesn't help as much, lol. Thanks for your thoughts. Too moist and too deep?

@Zonker1972 For future reference, either reply 'sold' or you could use the "Report" function in the upper right corner. We lock them and move them to Old/Sold. Like I'm about to do here ...

Nice save! Sometimes the leather decides the design for you, and working freehand ends up giving it way more character than a perfect transfer would have.

this tippmann boss has been sold but i can not figure out how to delete the post. any help is appreciated. thanks

Thank you sorry if I posted in wrong section.

Two Kingsley Hot Foil Stamp Machines and accessories. These were my Dads machines and I don’t know much about them but they are clean and both work. Model M-100-A and AM-60-AS Asking $1250 OBO Located in Orange County California Some reason I can’t load photos, email me and I will send

Thank you AlZilla. I read through Wiz's thread, very comprehensive and loaded with interesting and technical information. I'll keep working with that little 130 trying to improve my skills and enjoying the process. The little 130 I found for just $30 and had to buy a motor, belt and rebuilt the old lamp in it. Admittedly I don't know much about sewing machines, but believe she is doing pretty good and is the one I can use as the fancier 332's needle hits metal when the zigzag moves to the left. I haven't worker on her for a while and hope to get her fixed and sell it eventually so that I can fix the 226 and keep it and the 130 for my personal use. You mention the Singer 306 and I am yet to look it up and see how she is like the Pfaff 130. Now if the Singer 206 is that tiny, possibly portable, machine. I've seen some around in the ads and they go for a lot of money. I am hoping to pick up a Nakashima 280L and make that my first "leather sewing machine". It is at a local shop where she will be worked over, a servo motor installed and be a "turnkey" purchase. It might be priced on the high end of the spectrum but the shop is staffed by someone who seems to be a very honest gentleman who is always very helpful. I feel there is value in that. If I do, I'll be sure to share the information in this forum. Thanks again! Now I'll go look for the306 via Google before getting to some computer work I've been putting off.

Outstanding work!

Thank you. Thanks. He saw some sample tooling and approved so it won't be a complete surprise. Randy

Oh that jogs a memory. I've got a deal in the works to buy this machine that has two foot pedals. It might be for raising the presser foot though 🤷‍♀️

Yeah, a lot of us learn that the hard way. Partly because a lot of semi-scrupulous sellers market them as leather machines. You could put a bigger motor under the table and a torque increasing speed reducer. But you're still limited by the needle and thread size. But ... Let's talk about these Pfaff's! I haven't found one yet because they usually bring a premium price. You have multiples! I believe Singer bought the rights to make a machine based on the 130. If you look at Singer 306's you can see the similarity. A friend of mine recently found a Singer 206, of which I am most envious. It's a pint sized version of the 306. You have a great machine and I suggest you look into making some denim bags. I made a bunch from thrift store jeans and people loved them. The skills you learn will mostly translate to to a bigger machine, once you find one. Then just start keeping an eye out. I started my industrial adventure with a Singer 111W153, commonly called an "industrial walking foot" machine which is a good range to land in. It's a good all around general purpose machine. Many other kinds serve equally well, maybe better in some cases. Have you looked at Wiz's treatise on leather sewing machines? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/

Very impressive! Looks like a lot of work, I'm sure he'll love it.

They now have a veg tan sole and a back. I didn't allow enough lean in on the back so it doesn't grip as much as I'd like so might put some padding around the top.

Your feed sounds good. Wish I was near enough to nose my way into it. Your family is lucky to have you and your son. We just did some groceries, and are tucking in for some movies and maybe a hot cocoa. Happy Christmas, everyone. Oh, and a pal of mine came by to try making a wallet. She's doing great so far. I could learn from her, if only I would listen

COBRA CLASS 4 PREMIUM PACKAGE $3,300 An absolutely amazing machine. Getting out of leathercraft and have a so much to sell. This COBRA is flawless with zero issues. Will include thread and needles. Located in Tampa Florida. Local pickup only.

All very true!

looks very nice.

I have mentioned and recommended them a few times in the past because of their great leather (in my humble opinion) and excellent customer service. This week I had another example of that: I placed an order for 10 of the skirting bellies from the December sale flier. As usual, the lady on the phone was very nice (I think it was Cindy) and I got an email an hour later that the package was ready to ship! It arrived TWO DAYS later, which I thought was really fast, considering the Christmas rush and all. When I opened it there was a sticker on top that said “Extra leather at no charge” . I couldn’t figure out what that meant until I unwrapped the leather and found they had put four extra bellies in! I’m guessing they did that because some of them are a little narrow; I still consider them a steal at $5.00 a piece. I’m by no means a high volume customer, but I thought that was a really nice thing of them to do! So if you’re looking for great leather and even better customer service go to Wickett & Craig! They definitely have a lifetime customer in me!

Here it is done, pretty much. He darkened it more and kept working the nose (more curled). These earlier (24,25?) seats only have a partial back, as seen in the picture of the frame. So the first layer of leather is kind of the bucket. This seat has boiled (felted) wool (from an old blanket) and a heavy linen weave to protect the wool. (?) The top leather layer is cut a little bigger to get the sling and fit right before the stitching, final trim, and burnishing. I would have done the wet and weight trick with a carefully drawn stitchline, then would have definitely sculpted my edge better. But my guys don't like "hold-ups". lol (or listening to granny) The motor is a 3D print, but since then, he has bought an original motor to rebuild. He didn't grow up with guys doing this kind of stuff (mostly the women are the mechanics around here). But from the time he was a little kid, he loved to make "props". He carved wood stalks and used metal pipe and probably sewing machine parts to make a pretend rifle. Once, he made a rifle so real that we quickly bought it off of him before he headed back to town, where he lived. So, for the seasoned, this might not be up to par, but by the time he is done, he will know every detail, and it will be amazing.

machine seems to be a Singer 17 or Seiko TE-6 and they have supper small bobbin. Surprises me that they sew with fairly think thread this fairly thick leather with a machine like this > not much thread on the bobbin. When I look at the stitch length lever the it seems to me just a screw w/o reverse - or not? However - IIRC there was a reverse device of the Singer Class 7 that did not come with reverse ex factory... Maybe they tinkered something similar. Well.... lots of guessing here. No matter what they do a great job there - I´m quite impressed. EDIT: weeeeell - I´m not sure - new TE-6 have reverse AFAIK but not sure what I see there. EDIT II: Looks like this one - which looks like a non reverse machine