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Plastic white pin is for back-pedal. for normal sewing you press the pedal down and the motor starts, the more you press the faster it spins for back pedal you press with the heel, pedal moves up. In my case it is used to put the needle in the up position (used togetehr with needle positioner). While starting / sewing the plastic pin should rest in the lower position. Only when you back-pedal the plastic pin is pushed up. I guess here could be your problem. Adjust your pedal and the rod.

I use a metal satay skewer for applying edge paint and some people from my class use bits of TIG welding rod. Both are around 1-2mm in diameter. It's slow work, but by applying paint this way (drip-by-drip basically) gives you a fine control over the amount of paint you apply and prevents excess from going over the edge and smearing the grain side. Glue I have never yet applied in such a way that it could get on the wrong side of the leather I'm working with. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping your work patch and your hands clean when dealing with glue. For contact cement I use a plastic spatula to apply small amounts (CA is for setting pieces before stitching imo, so you only need small amounts) and for PVA I usually use a large spatula (an old credit card) or a brush to apply it.

https://web.archive.org/web/20211118144908/https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c4a0fab2714e5229b8efb33/t/5ed1c72f76be205b7da9f374/1590806321375/TW05A.pdf Here is the link via the Wayback Machine

Hi, I hope you can help me. A friend of mine asked me if I could make a breast collar for her horse. Now I'm looking for the right hardware, but I can't seem to find it. Can you tell me where I can get hardware similar to the one in the picture? Thanks!

I bought mine off Ali-express, cheaper than ebay at the time. Some now come with a hose between the compressor and airbrush which could be handy for getting in tight places, I suppose, but it's getting away from the portability aspect a bit. There's a huge number of generic airbrushes available now, and pretty cheap, ranging from external mix (I have a Paasche, very handy and as you say easy to clean) to double-action with bottom suction feed, side feed, top gravity feed and a pistol grip type with a largish paint bottle on top, and all pretty cheap. I've ended up with all of these and I've got no complaints with the quality of them. One thing I did was to polish the needles, it might not be necessary for spraying leather but I did it anyway. One of my grand-daughters is very artistic and creative and one day when I mentioned airbrushes her eyes lit up so I've "lent" her one of my compressors and a top-feed airbrush, she was very excited about trying something new. Knowing my wife I suspect "donate" is a better term.

Ok. Thank you for the insight. I'm gonna try to sell my craftool rivet press. I can't find brass rivets from tandy. Lol. I'm disappointed. I might not be able to sell stuff in make from supplies from tandy. That sucks!!! I just started leatherworking a few months ago. My favorite thing to do is make belts!!!

If you go for the all-in-one, shop around I got my first for about £21 and the second for under £15. My first is actually like your picture, red, but my second is black with the 'waisted' compressor I've seen them priced up to £90, and they are virtually all the same.

Ok, thanks for the confirmation on the handheld compressor. I'm going to get one to try out. Both the Badger 150's and the Binks Wren's have been good airbrush's in my opinion. The 150's are double action internal mix units where pushing the button opens the air, and pulling back on the button adjusts the paint flow, which is great if you are changing spray pattern as you go, but the internal mix aspect makes them slightly more involved to clean up. The Wren's being an external mix single action control makes them easier to clean, and I like the ergonomics and simplicity of them. Each has their place.

There are plenty of youtube vids showing how to make a pattern but it's pretty simple for a slimjim, basically do as you said, fold some cardboard around the gun and mark out the shape and allow for the stitch line. If you look at the top of this section there is a tutorial on making a slimjim.

I have two of these. They're great. An ordinary spray brush can be fitted. Standard fitting, but not Badger fitting. The cup on top can be changed. Usually these come as a package with two different larger capped plastic cups; very useful for when you're spraying a large amount of dye or sealer With the two I have I swopped one over to an airbrush with a finer needle. They're not really all that bulky and are fairly light-weight. Some versions have a waisted-shape compressor which fit the hand better. Its great not having a hose trailing around to trip over or get wiped across work you've just done I've done plenty of spraying but never as yet exhausted the compressor I know nothing about your other airbrushes but I'd suggest cleaning them up and retiring them

You've got quite the collection! That Chameleon is an interesting device, I've never heard of them before (which probably isn't surprising). As for your question about the "self-contained" unit, I have one but haven't used it much only because I haven't done much airbrushing for a while. It works well and is certainly convenient as I don't have to drag out compressor, hose etc. I bought it after reading about the idea on various modelling forums, most who used one seemed happy enough with it. There are various types available, some have a removable battery pack so you can swap them when they go flat. Theoretically, any "modern" airbrush should fit onto the compressor container as all of the China-made models have the same thread size, but I couldn't guarantee it. The older Badgers won't fit without an adaptor, likewise Paasche.

I also found the the Adler/Durkoff website has a manual/parts list for the 167 which does show the bearing so my machine is a 167 not a 67 adn the part I destroyed is #067-10-053-0. Anyone got one? Martin

An old thread rises from the obscurity An old tale, which used to do the rounds; A man's car was running badly so he took it the garage The experienced mechanic lifted the hood, listened to the engine for a few minutes then got out a screwdriver, reached into the engine bay, applied the screwdriver and adjusted something the minutest amount He tells the man 'that'll be $50' 'What!' says the man 'fifty bucks and all you did was twiddle that screwdriver!' 'Well, its like this, 50c for twiddling the screwdriver and $49.50 for knowing how and where to twiddle that screwdriver'

Not sure which of the forums I'm on will have the most airbrush guru's, but lets give it a shot! I inherited a few Airbrush's with my Dad's old leather tools, and have picked up a couple myself over the years. He had them from back in his Hollywood days doing props and special effects. He often was given antique leather goods that he had to make 3 to 10 copies of so they didn't destroy the original, and an airbrush was one of the tools he would use to detail stuff with paints and dyes to make it look authentic (I find that whole industry fascinating, as those craftsmen will regularly make convincing works of art that are often destroyed during or post filming). We've also used them detailing other projects over the years, and even for touch-up paint on equipment. He mainly used Badger 150 airbrush's, as well as a couple of imports (same design as the Badgers). I've also got a couple Binks Wren brush's that I like. While I'm sorting stuff out I'm thinking I'll pass the import airbrush's on to a couple of his more artistic grandkids to practice with. They were mainly used with the shops air supply and a regulator, so I'm going to get a couple little hobby compressors to run them with. So, first question: Does anyone have experience with the hand-held airbrush compressors, like pictured below? Will typical airbrush's thread onto them, or do they use their own thread size? It seems like a bulky, but simple wireless way to go, but if it won't work with the sentimental brush's I'll just get a typical 110v compressor. 2nd Question: Dad also ended up with kind of a rare bird. It's a Binks Raven airbrush, which is already one of the higher-end vintage airbrush's, but on top of that he bought it from a Ron Gress who did background scenery and modeling and apparently developed an attachment for it that Binks produced, the Chameleon 59-250 system. You can load it with 9 or so different paints and change them on the fly, like painting off of an artists pallet instead of out of a single paint jar. I can't find ANY info on this system online, other than an ad for it and some obituary entries for it's creator. I contacted Binks, who sent my case to a local Binks dealer, who unfortunately was more interested in trying to sell me new guns than helping me find any information. I'd love to find a manual for it or any other documentation related to it's existence. I plan to clean it up and test it out, but I expect that it'll require some diligent cleaning. I think if you were airbrushing multiple colors at once though (like those Hollywood guys), it wouldn't be any more cleaning than having 9 different airbrushes loaded up to use. And last Question: One of My Binks Wren's is missing some pieces. I've got most of it on order, but one piece is apparently no longer available. It's part 59-20, which they're calling a "Wren Gun Housing", but it's a round air fitting that fits into the bottom of the gun. Is buying a more complete gun or a parts gun the only way to find this piece, or does anyone know of an airbrush supply shop that might have some parts for sale? The gun in question is the "A" size for fine work. I use a "B" size for most stuff but am hoping to put the old "A" back in service. The "A" and "C" sizes are discontinued, but you can still buy the "B" some placed for $300-$400, which is crazy as used ones pop up for $20-$60. I'm just stubborn wanting to fix what I've got rather than replace it.

Not so much as wear off but as they age and/or get wet the nickel plating will come off as rust forms under the plating I rarely use nickel plated steel rivets. Mostly I use nickel plated brass or plain brass rivets

@Stonehouse Leather Works I moved you over to The Marketplace under Business and Estate Sales. Nothing else seemed quite right, it looks like you're selling a business or part of one. Good luck with the sale.

Hey Northmount, Here are some pics - first overall, what machine is this? Second, fail of bearing removal following this threads how-to. Third, split in timing belt that has been there for years but I had time to look into this. Any advice appreciated, Martin

I have a question though. How do you keep the pistol from sliding too deep into the holster, I build my welt so the frame or trigger guard of the pistol rests on it keeping the pistol positioned where I want it. It doesn't look like your using a welt?

Very nice!!

Thank you for your sharing such a valuable information. I have the same 45K treadle and a 45k25 machine, but no table. These photos explain many things for me . But I couldnt imagine the belt holes , How far from the edge of rightside? Could you please measure it if possible, I have also a missing part of support arm

If you're interested, send me a DM with an offer. If not, just move on.

Chuck the large belt loop sounds like a good idea,I have always used open ended holsters but I may try sewing the end shut. I have read of pros and cons throughout the years with one of the so called cons being that when it is closed on the end that anything coming in the top cant just fall through the end,what is your thoughts on that ? Later Chuck

OK.. now Wondering where the magnet is suppose to be set....🤔

Yes my neck and lower back have has the nerves burnt and supposed to las for 6 months to a year and that only lasted about 4 months ,Going to have to get it done again,got spinal stenosis and degenerative disc disease. Less than a week or so ago I had to have a procedure done to my heart because of some chest pains and very low blood pressure. I had a stent in 2005-2006 and then in 2016 had a triple bypass and then in 2023 had 4 more stents put in and this last procedure doctor said that one of the bypasses was pretty well gone and he put in a ballon that releases medicine . and It looks like for years that I have been taking those no azatol pills. My butt bone sits on whatever I am sitting on and regula doc told me I need to get something I think is called a Donut pillow so the sore place on my butt sits in the hole not touching anything and supported on bith sides by the hips and edge of my butt. Anyway do I need to find a template somewhere or just tale some thin cardboard and staple it around the gun? Talk to you later

Thanks so much. I so appreciate your input. Would the depression of the plastic white piece be creating that problem?? I have two of these motors and on the one that is working the white pin does not move and the one that the motor is not activating does move/depress with pressure. IMG_1240.mov