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hello, i recently got a old pfaff 1245 sewing machine, is there a way of finding out what year it is? and if so, is there a way of finding a manual for it? is there a place online where i can find all the manuals for old sewing machines regardless of make and model? thank you

Al, I deliberately didn't mention a speed reducer as it can all be a bit overwhelming to a newcomer, but since you did ..........Lego Mum, try the servo first but if you still find it a wee bit fast at times then a speed reducer is the next step, just a tad more complicated than merely adding a servo. There have been many posts on here about speed reducers but if you think you need one feel free to ask about options.

Thanks KGG, I should also mention: A. I have adjusted second thread guide in different positions. I'll reposition to original as per Manuel. B. When threading the tension assembly to NOT go up and over the pin, the thread often becomes disengaged from the top tension discs, releasing tension altogether. Maybe there are multiple issues...? I used the pin as suggested in a video for a different type of machine using the same type tension assembly. Materials: yes dually noted! This machine specs suggest lighter thread/needle can be used. Idk if that directly relates to the exact types of materials. I know of many using the 1541 and similar compound machines for the same materials. Of course, this is a dsc246 and not necessarily similar enough. Noted they have thin material feed dogs available with I assume smaller needle hole. I am not currently aware any available smaller hole presser feet? When I put a similar fabric with more stiffness under the needle it does help but does not solve. And yes it does very fine with thicker assemblies. I will look into 2 c and d. I do infact use a needle feed machine as well, and it does fine with this two layers of fabric, but not totally ideal for the rest of this sewing line involving thicker parts further down the line of sewing. This 246 is primarily for binding but I'm looking to see if I can expand it's usefulness btw horizontal to elliptical feed conversion takes only 5-10 min if anyone wants to know haha Edit: does the thread twist coming off the spool look normal? Thanks a lot!

My suggestions to try: i) Your top threading is incorrect. a) The first guide after the top pin should be at the 12 o'clock position b) you have the thread wrapping around and over the pin in the first top thread tensioner. It should go between the tension disc of the top thread tensioner and straight down to the next set of discs for the thread takeup. Section 9 THREAD THE MACHINE HEAD of the manual. If you don't have a manual I have attached a screen shot of the proper threading and a pdf of the manual. ii) This machine is a unison / compound machine made for medium to heavy weight materials. The material you are using looks like a thin fairly stiff material similar to ripstop or a very tightly woven fabric. a) bulk up the material b) reduce presser foot tension c) make sure the fabric isn't being sucked into the needle plate hole d) use a leather point needle to cut the material rather then a fabric needle which will try to separate fibres before punching through d) Wrong machine for the job try using a domestic sewing machine or needle feed needle. kgg instruction_eg.pdf

Hey Uwe, I know this is an “all or nothing” type of deal, but if you get to the point where you are getting rid of machines because you cannot find a taker, I’d love to swing by and purchase one (or more) from you. I’m over in the Grand Rapids area and have been struggling to find an industrial machine to buy, looks like you have a ton. If that’s an option please let me know!

Thanks for doing that!!!! I appreciate being able to have it all together in one document!!! Timbo

I am selling my Al Stohlman saddle making books. I have 4 of them. There are 2 copies of volume 1. Volume 3 is still in the original plastic wrap. Looking online these are going for upwards of $100 each. They have combined them all into one book now. I have no need for these books and want to get rid of them. I am only going to sell all 4 at one time. I will NOT break them up. So buy all 4 or none. I am asking $200 + shipping for all 4 of them. I also have 2 other books for sale and will take $20 + shipping for both of those. Again, I will only sell together. If anyone is interested in everything just shoot me an offer. I have no need of these books anymore and want someone to have them who can use the info that is in them. Or if you just want to buy and speculate on reselling them, I'm good with that too. You can message me through leather worker or you can email me direct at: drunkhorsecustomleather@gmail.com After contacting me we can work out the payment at that time. Thanks for looking!! Tim

Hey Folks, I am having some troubles with a recently acquired machine. Juki dsc-246 using v69 bonded nylon, size 16-18 fabric R point needles and sewing two+ layers of 210d nylon. As you can see from the photos, I am getting some nasty puckering in the fabric leading to very unsightly seams! The fabric started out as two perfectly flat layers and now features waves. This is my first compound feed and cylinder machine so i first thought I was maybe causing the issues incorrectly FEEDING the fabric (I am doing some flat work here without a flatbed attachment). Now, I am not so sure that I am the cause of these puckers. The machine does sew heavier/thicker including binding work quite well. Things I have attempted to adjust: Thread tensions (bobbin tension here is almost non-existent in an attempt to alleviate the issue. Walking foot/inside presser foot pressure: adjustment do not seam to help? but with little pressures, my material slips around underneath with feet sitting on the throat plate Smaller Needle size Smaller thread: v46 I found a similar thread here which discusses a the same problem but with different materials: I am looking for guidance on what steps I should take next or to maybe start over. More adjusting needed? Still thread tension or an issue with the walking feet/feeding. What am I overlooking? The above thread discussed possibly worn out components being a factor. (Ugh hopefully not, this machine does appear to have been well used...) Which ones would maybe cause this? Thanks everyone! PXL_20250611_165524676.TS.mp4

Thanks AIZilla...for the suggestion of a speed reducer! I have heard about them...and will consider getting one....I have just (minutes ago!) received my servo motor.....so I'll give that a try; and perhaps I will need to slow down even more...! (That clutch motor is incredibly fast...!) Thanks for your information!😊

WONDERFUL help....truly! 😊 I am soooo grateful for any/all input, help and information. I am completely NEW to this leather world....! (This is an incredible "on-line" community with such a vastness of experiences and information....and people willing to share what they've learned!) Thank you....!

Oh this is Interesting…Good to know ! I will definitely use it as finish thank you

Acknowledged and all true however I had chosen to make a small table and space for a reducer pulley under the top was not really an option. I also tried to get this 51W56 off the ground for as little scratch as possible and that was easiest with aluminum that I had in stock. I slowed down my skiiver as you suggested and I like the results!

Thanks! I did try to think this one through, except for the amount of time it would take...

Saddle stitching without a pony is certainly doable. On Youtube Corter Leather has a very good vid on how to do it. A few practice pieces and you're off to the races.

Welcome to the forum! That's a great idea for a keepsake/air tag holder

Welcome! That's a cool bag tag!

Nice job! Looks great! I have a knife with a cheap sheath on it right now that I hope to make a new one this week for it.

@Johanna Looks like a reasonable request as doesn't affect any threads other than this one. @ScholarsWith Disabilities you could have handled this via a PM to Johanna and not have even affected this thread.

All glues are not the same and all edge paints aren't either. As said, most contact cements on the surface can be removed with a crepe block or eraser. Realize that the solvent in them makes them penetrate the leather a bit and that won't wipe off. It will block stains and dyes depending on how deep it goes. If you have to rub much to remove cements then the surface of leather will abrade. From there on will not take dyes and finishes the same as the leather around it. Edge paints - not all the same - I used the Fiebings a fair amount on smaller stuff. It was OK, kind of the standard then. Most of my larger projects had a dyed and burnished edge. My wife is now making a lot of smaller projects from chrome tan leathers. You would be hard pressed to make her switch from the Giardini edge coat system. Jerry Van Amburg spent about an hour with her at Pendleton last fall showing her the steps and tips/tricks for Giardini. Those edges are nice! She orders it from Buckleguy and they have a YouTube on it.

I tried using edge paint. Even bought one of the manual rotary tools to apply it. I may have done 3 project with it, and like @Dwight, never got feedback from a customer that said they missed it when I didn't use it. I still have a couple bottles sitting on the back of the shelf, but typically just dye the edge, then slick it.

Not sure what glue you're using but this applies the rubber/contact cement like Barge or Weldwood. I use rubber cement erasers, they pull the glue right up like it's never been there. The trick is to let the glue get tacky before using the eraser, if it's to wet it'll just smear. Also you just need a light touch so you don't mark your leather. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rubber+cement+eraser

Nice work, Indeed. Welcome from SW Missouri.

Welcome from Wyoming and nice work!

I've been there and still am. If you are handy, you can make a good portion of your tools, for free or very little outlay of money, including a stitching pony. I made mine from scrap wood, it sits under my legs on a chair, so no bench clamping is needed, and I can sit anywhere and sew. Most of the great old-time famous names made their own tools and stamps it was about the only way to get them before modern commercialism.

Apply edge paint with the back end of a paintbrush or a small wooden rod of some type. Dip it, wipe off the drip, and hold the rod at a 90-degree angle to the edge. Then, lightly run it down the edge. Contact cement can be removed pretty well with an eraser.