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Good morning Guys. moved this "topic" to the used machines for sale forum. I need to move this machine along to a new caretaker.

Time to move my 346 along to a new caretaker. I picked up this cylinder arm machine about three years ago and have had it in dry storage since. While recommissioning it recently, I found that it does not reliably pick up the bobbin thread. This adjustment is beyond my skill set. Buyer gets the machine, table and clutch motor. A table/insert to provide a flat surface, a 3-ring binder with useful info such as manuals and parts list. Pickup on west central Connecticut. $400.00. test reply by gary

I have about 30 various hides from 5mm russet, 3mm black waxed, various other colours and thicknesses. I have large amounts of offcuts from MAJOR motor marques from their interiors. I have a Singer 45K58 Flatbed on a good table with motor, a Singer 196K205 on a good table with motor, a Singer 185K in its original case, a Pfaff 335-17B H2L (with purpose built binding attachment, on table with motor. A Fortuna skiver and a 20" 8020 motorised splitting machine from Franklins in Colchester. I have a purpose built very large 60W laser engraver / cutter and a 3D printer If you are genuinely interested and would like first dibs on any of these please contact me manumealtd@gmail.com If you are interested you will have to collect from mid-Norfolk, as I will not be delivering any of it, and postage / carrrier is an absolute pain in the butt. I am kind of retiring, but mainly going back to all handmade, handstitched, and I am sick to death of repairing Mulberry handbags.

Welcome to the forum from Denmark. The Singer patchers are fantastic machines. Have fun restoring yours. Brgds Jonas

Just finished up an axe sheath for my son-in-law. Probably the last time I sew something that thick, but I had an idea and wanted to see if it would work. It did, but my fingers are sore. Lol

I would knock as much rust off as you can with a wheel or brush. Then soak in EvapoRust or Metal Rescue - WD-40 makes a similar product I have not tried. Wire wheel off the residue, use what ever abrasives are indicated to work out deep pitting, oil dip and work the hinges some, oil again until it comes out clear. Might end up OK. Here are a few I have had through here with the cast bells. The #10005 is a Barnsley.

And I'll echo those ^^^^ words . . . May God bless, Dwight

I'm going to be the outlier on the edges. While admitting they might be more attractive if polished and concealed, I think they look fine as they are. To me, edges that are totally concealed and finished to hide the seams just look like cheap vinyl that could be spit out of any factory, 10,000 before lunch time. To each, their own.

Welcome from SW Missouri, USA. You are now joined! Lots of knowledgeable folks on here regarding sewing machines.

I have a cordless electric Ryobi wood planer. I can shave down a 2x4 nicely with it. I wonder if a stiff piece of veg tan would be "plane able." Running it over softer leather sounds like a recipe for a tangle up in the blade and might be unsafe. Maybe if I skive perpendicular to the edge instead of trying to run it lengthwise it might stand a chance of allowing for a nice rolled edge? The heavy veg tan this would likely work well on seems like the type I have the best chance of doing a decent job with a knife skive by hand anyway. The softer chrome tans are where I think I'll make a bad skive and screw it up.

Looks really clean! Love the stitching. It appears that the laminated edges could use a bit more sanding so they look like a single piece of leather instead of 3. It takes a bit more time, but the results are fantastic after burnishing the edges. I would also help to really press down on the pieces after gluing to ensure there are no gaps between the leather.

Looks good. Did you put edge paint on it?

A quick internet search turns up a lot of hits for Geo Barnsley. I didn't follow the rabbit trail but it seems Barnsley is pretty well known. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Geo+Barnsley+lasting&t=brave&atb=v430-1&ia=web

Remember back in the day, when you'd get a keyfob with your license # on it, and an address where you could mail them for free return service? Times have changed! LOL - Bill

@Gosut I don't think you have much to worry about. I use beer logos in leather, and I also sell beer bottle tops as fridge magnets. Some years ago , I spoke to a rep for a company that covers many beer brands etc. here in Oz , he told me ' as long as I don't modify the logo they are fine' . There's a thread regarding copyright on this site. HS

@lhow I would take a punt and say they are pre 1900's. The later models with a bell shaped hammer had screw in hammers ,the one pictured is cast as a whole piece .The earliest reference catalogue i have is from 1910 and it shows the screw in bell style . In fact that is the first one by any maker that i have seen with a cast bell hammer . With a rust converter treatment and a going over with a wire wheel they could become serviceable again .

Hi Glenn, Thanks alot for the reply. Just checked on google the part no mentioned and find on 867 manual and the screen short of the part is this... Do it's needed to screw , I think their is no hole in Shaft or i may need to recheck. Do 600 watt [Hohising g60] in enough for 669?

Had a go at making some dies for a fellow shooter and leatherworker. It's not as easy as it looks and there's an element of luck in trying to match the shapes on two sides. Part of the process is figuring out which combination of tools works best to get a desired result - sometimes it's not what you think. I had to make up another tool because nothing I had would let me get the bend I wanted! I tacked the die together with the MIG, and after I'd taken the photos I put a sharpened bevel edge on one, using a worn 120 grit belt (that reduced the risk of grinding too much and also polished the edge). I put it under the Vevor press with some thick scrap and heaved away, very satisfying when it went clunk! It worked!! The banding works well and is surprisingly tough, although being 1 1/2", compared to the 1" of the steel rule, means it's just a bit harder to work with. Damn, I'm good!

That's a bright idea. If you turn on the drill press slow you could use the punch for mixing batter too.

Drinks are a mix of metric and Imperial. At the local pub, they're sold in pints and ounces, but at the store, I buy a 2 litre bottle of pop. Smaller bottles and cans are a mix of sizes. The 'tall boy' can of beer I just drank is 473 ml, which is actually a pint, though it doesn't say that on the can. Bottled water is usually half a litre, but a can of Coke is 12 oz. We're supposed to be bilingual in French and English*, but it would be more accurate to say we're bilingual when it comes to measurements! (We're not - you will have a hard time finding anyone who speaks French fluently outside of Quebec.)

I just bought this saddle. I am happy with the saddle either way, but my preference would be for it to look a bit more even. I've tried searching, but I had trouble finding this specific situation. Lots of people wanting to dye black, I just want mine to be a more even brown color, and I'm not even terribly particular about the shade, somewhere medium-ish, but dark-ish would be okay too. I just started playing around with a bit of leather work, so this is definitely not something I've done before. Is there any dye, stain, or anything that would work to make this look a bit nicer?

I doubt it will be an upgrade. Why do you think it could be an upgrade? If the Consew has a larger bobbin that IMO would be the only improvement. Both are Chinese made clones of the Singer 29K with minor downgrades from the last Singer version 29K7X

I really wouldn't be able to say. I personally have had poor luck with Consew when compared to other clones. kgg