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That is a lot of patience and finesse there. Nice work.

Here is a parts diagram of the Adler 20-20 - hope it helps Adler_Parts_class_20-20.pdf

Moved this to the finishes area. For me, Blackrock's Leather N Rich works great for outdoor leather. Hats, sheaths, holsters, you name it. Even a year later, it's still shedding water and zero spotting. I'll dye items at whatever point and then the leather n rich when I'm done. Nothing else. It works for me.

I have been using Angelus 600 as a topcoat, resist, for many years. Recently, I’ve been caught in the rain with my booth at a couple of events. I noticed afterwards that the bulk of my product had terrible water spots on them. I have two questions, first can I get the water spots off and how second is there another top coat I can use, if this is gonna continue to persist, that will not water spot? Thank you.

I ordered some of this https://tandyleather.com/products/designer-smooth-side?variant=45452955418755 in candy apple red to make bags for my dirt bike. Why won't glue stick to it? It's fairly thin so I'm doubling the leather rough side glued to rough side but the glue doesn't hold. I'm using weldwood glue and has been working well on other leathers. Why not working on this?

Don't use it as much as some do but it hasn't given a moments worry and I love that I can switch it on at any time and use it without worry whether be it a serious project or to mend one of the dogs squeaky toys. Gives me more confidence than I've ever had.

@kgg hit it on the head on all points, nice assessment Kgg. Todd

Wow, I can totally see why that would get under your skin - finding a vintage piece in the exact color and quality you’ve been after, only to see it mistreated like that, is tough.

My two cents worth: i) it is a class 441 machine just based on the needle system it uses. ii) the size of the hole it will punch is equal to basically a 2 1/2" finishing nail. iii) the max size thread it can handle is V346 minimum size is V69 iv) the max thickness the machine will sew is rated for 1/2". v) the cost for a new machine is about $2200 USD The questions: i) What is the asking price which will depend on the condition? Any photo's? ii) What size of thread do you what to use? iii) How thick is the thickest leather you will need / want to sew. iv) How often you will use the machine? If it is infrequently maybe consider a Cowboy Outlaw( new ~ $1400) or Tippman Boss (new ~$1000) kgg

That’s amazing! Just make sure to condition your leather jacket every few months — it keeps it soft and looking new for years.

Lovely work, I have yet to master doing horses. On one occasion I can do a nice job, but other times they are a complete flop no matter how many times i've done them , lol 😆 HS

Great work 👍 acorns and oaks leaves are some of my fave patterns, that and roses. HS

It's been some time. How has this machine worked out?

Thank you, hope so.

Eli Schlabach (217) 543-3464. Landis Sales & Service is located at 115 E CR 500 N, Arthur, IL 61911. This location is in Douglas County.

So I’m gonna assume this is the brake and adjuster.

Opinions on the Cowboy cb3200 sewing machines? I found one for sale fairly close to me. I make quite a variety of things and realize one machine won't do everything but if I could mostly use it for sewing tack and heavy stuff and sew everything else by hand. Thanks

Outstanding. Thank you for the tutorial. I bought a dozen caiman tails cheap from Buckle Guy, I think, and have been looking for a use. DAve

Interesting idea. I have done that with NFO, but results vary depending on the leather. DAve

I know this is an old thread but I noticed someone was visiting this thread so here is what I found earlier this year on evilbay in Jan 2025. They are for 1/4" piping. This set is not a plug and play set as I needed to adjust the height of the bars to which they mount as the length of this set is shorter than the "standard" 441 feet set. They do work when the machine is adjusted but I have as of yet have had no need for these.

The more the slack, the better. Do whatever it takes to move the brake pad away from the clutch drive plate. If it's already on the verge of engaging, back off the screw to give it more hold vs motion time. Somebody with a shop should come up with an adjustable clutch/brake pad accessory for these motors.

I may need to adjust my clutch brake b/c I barely have to tuck the gas and it’s moving. It’s a fine line between releasing the brake and the machine stitching.

Very impressive, first time I've seen the pattern extended right to the end with the buckle tongue holes through it.

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