Trox

Call Greg at Keystone (above), I'm sure he have something. If not try Bob Kowar member name "CowboyBob" Toledo industrial Sewing machines. You start with removing the nut. I do not know this motor, but I'm sure one of the above mentioned dealers do. They will take care of you. Tor

JLSleather, you use epoxi. But remember to leave a little gap between the wood and the metal, because metal would expand with heat and make the wood Crack (fill the gap with epoxi glue), here is one I had made for a motor. Work very well, it's cocobolo wood.

Professional Italian leather burnisher machines use metal burnisher bits. They use heating elements inside them. An advantage with metal is that is easy to clean after using wax. Stainless steel conduct very little heat, I think brass would be the best material. Aluminium will work too but not as good as brass will. I have a problem with pasting in links. You will see an example of such machine in this site Sieck.de then go to "belt manufacturing": Sieck type 709 H leather edge closing machine with heat. Tor

Hi, I have five different ploughs, all of different pattern. The Blanchard 100 mm (current model) is the one I like the best. The roller on it is spring loaded and supports the leather at all time. The roller can also be locked in the position you want. I Have a couple of 150 mm wide too, but never had the use for more than 100 mm. There is no doubt that the plough gauge is the best strap cutter for wide straps, more than a inch wide. But it will cut work fine on thinner straps too. As with all strap cutters it's a technique to use them. It's easier to master than a draw gauge anyway. Keep the knife polished with the bevel on the side against the guide/fence. This way it will push the leather against the guide ensuring a consistent even cut strap. If you buy the Blanchard you have a tool that last more than a live time, you may wear out some blades in it. Make sure the tool comes with at least one knife, Blanchard sell them both with and without the knife. I have no problem recommending this tool to you, it's number one. Tor

I use the plough gauges by Blanchard. Are you thinking of buying a new one?I use ploughs on strap over an inch wide and the US draw gauge (CSO) on thinner straps. The plough are pushed in to the leather and compress rather than stretch it. Anyway, both types of tools efficiency depend on how their blades are set up. They need to have an edge on one side to press the leather against the guide and be properly sharpen/stropped. The Blanchard plough have a scale in millimeters and the construction are the same they had for years. The knifes are not the same quality as old stock tools and I do not know how they come set up. You could buy an old stock plough from Bruce Johnson with a knife already set up properly. I do have a couple of the original wooden strap cutters, they are not professional tools. They are affordable tools, I could sell you one. I have not used them for years, I have no plans to use them in the future either. Tor

I have the same motor on my DA 267-373 machine, but with an other control box PF-62 AV (it's an old motor now). It's a very smooth running motor, but less power that the new DC 1550 motors. Anyway, should be a switch for the needle stop up or down. I do not think it will run with out the syncronisher, if it runs it will be no speed control on it either. I do not understand why you want to disconnect the synchronizer?? You have stitch by stitch opertunity, you do not want to sew half a stitch? I would recommend the newer stronger Efka DC 1550 (with control box of choice or AB 321) for such a heavy machine. Perhaps that DC 1600 motor struggles a bit on thick materials. Anyway, I love these Efka motors, it's the best there is on the marked. If you wonder about anything with them you can contact Efka for free (live time) support. They will help you on Skype video call to set up your motor. Tor

Here is my Rose knife, I'm changing the handle and brass on it (when I got some time to spare). I will make the new handle in cocobolo/rosewood, silver solding the brass and use epoxi glue to fix it. I see no point in using a pin anymore when we have the modern epoxi glue. If you are using old fashion shell lack glue like they did hundred years ago, then a pin would be neccessary. Tor

I have to ask the same question as Constabulary asked before, what screws are you looking for? When it comes to adjustments screw like the thread tension and stitch lever adjustment they are special screws with fine threads. It got to be like that when it's for adjustments. Old Pfaff spare parts might be hand made in Germany if they are obsolete, that's expensive. Some are still avaiable. Tor

I got the Ferdco lower needle guide in the post today. Bought it second hand for 50 $ and it looks pretty good. No hits by a needle, pretty much as new (some cosmetic signs of use of course). A new one is 100 $ from the Hoffman Bros. Haven't got the time to try it yet. Here is some pics of it compared to my serrated feed dog. It's not possible to modify my type of blanket feed dog in to one. However, the might be others out there with more "meat" That can be modified. By the way, I think it will fit the Adler 205-370 too. It certainly fit a 105-64 and a class 5, not that it would be of much use there II use it for comparison only. Tor

Hi, I cannot see the picture of the shuttle. The manual are in German. I can send you the 23 pdf´s, you can print them out on paper. Send me your email in an PM (better not show it here to avoid spammers) Here is the saddlers attachment pack for Adler class 5. It's pretty much the same as the one for the Singer 45K. The feed dog for the flat plate is on the machine. You have different guides, binder, knife and many different presser feets. A double harness guide and some bits and screws. (the little shuttle, left in pic # 2 do not belong to this machine. In fact I do not know where it belongs, came with the machine when I bought it several years ago) Send me your email address and I will give you the pdf ´s. Tor

Hi GPaudler, that plate was not lying; this is exactly the same machine as the older Cl. 5-27 a proper 105-27. And what a nice looking set up you have there, very nice stand! Darren, what difference this from a class -25 is the spring loaded jump foot, the -25 has a driven upper foot. This foot only follows the material backwards and jump forward again caused by the springs action (no feeding action). This is still a bottom feed only, but the jump foot will allow sewing with much lower foot pressure; then again less markings on bottom side leather. Adler made this system for sewing leather, who invented it I do not know. Anyway, it's forerunner cl. 5-27 was a leather machine for saddlers and the best lockstitch for the job at the time of manufacturing. I cannot find any record of the 105-27 anywhere. But I'm used to surprises from the Adler company, they made a lot of special machines there are no record of anymore (available online anyway) I've used my old 5-27 for many years before I upgraded to a 441, I've sewed 16 mm. thick leather on it. I have all the saddlers attachments for it, my good old backup machine is still in mint condition. About adjusting the jump foot: the screw you are asking about (front face side of the head) is for adjusting the jump foot hight. You have to adjust is just as high as it clears the material on its way back. You will here it clicks back in forward position. Adjusted to low it will not return forwards again. To high does not really matters, but then it will lift unnecessarily high; it's to much mechanical work for the machine that slowing it down. Adjust it just high enough to clear the material and lock it in place with the locking lever (one armed wing nut) inside the screw. There are a short description in the user manual for the Adler class 4 and 5. It's also a description of the different attachments and sewing techniques of these machines, machines with the "mitgehende näfuss" spring loaded jumpfoot. (I do not have the proper characters on my tablet to write it correct in German). We have posted this (German) manual here before and I belive that Constabulary saved all the files I posted in to one pdf. (I have it in 23 pdf files, each containing one page of the manual) Or do I remember wrongly? If so I will post them again. Very nice work with you stand, I love it! If your shuttle tension does not tension thin threads anymore, then your bobbin thread spring is worn out. They usually do after some time. There are no Springs available for this open type shuttle. However, you can change it for the newer closed type shuttle of same size. (Use the one for the Adler and not the Singer 45, they have different hook tips but look very simmilar) DA part # 0005 002904 is the new small shuttle (for this you can buy separate bobbin springs and screws for too, your old open type shuttle is not supported anymore) I know this will be of importance for you in the future, if it's not already. You can also buy this (#0005 002904) shuttle from Japanese Hirose or Italian Ceralini. Cowboy sewing machine (Hightex) in China also have it available. Good luck with your beautiful machine. PS. Here is a pic of the old closed shuttle #05 195 for the Adler cl. 4 and 5. It looks like this shuttle is in your machine now, cannot be sure before you take a better picture, thought. Tor

HI Bob, what motor are you using on your new Cowboy 4500 and others, do you use the new Hightex Cowboy servo motor?

Hi Jackie, email sent Tor

Thank you Jackie! that's what I call good customer service, I wish more people was like you. I'm looking forward to hear from. Thank you, Tor

Got them!

Thank you, I know that, that's not the same as having a catalog in my workshop where I need it. Tor

I can understand its a cost to send and print such catalog, however it's advertising. First time I had to pay for a catalog. Tor

This is what we use now, no heated tool necessary anymore on the latest generation Italian edge paint. Just sanding and paint, for all kinds of leather/ vinyl and so on. You also get a free sample of this if you pay for the postage. You need a applicator tool, that is necessary; it got to be applied thick and even. Giardini www.leatheredgepaint.com I do not think the link will work because of the site update here, you got to type this inn manually. Tor

Cost me 32 $ to get a catalog?

Dale, did you understand something of this "Instructions" Tor

There you go Uwe, a beautiful high key portrait of a material eating dog