Trox

I use this set up too (with the Cobra style inside foot, slotted plate and Ferdco lower guide), but I never sew with no material in the machine. Ease up the presser foot pressure (so the presser do not hit the plate) or change the inside foot if you going to sew very thin material. Remember to hold both thread tight when locking down your stitches/ start and stop. To much presser foot pressure will make it hard for the needle to hit same holes on back tacking, you are using a sharp LR needle that will cut/fray the thread easily . Tor

I would recommend the CS Osborne # 84 or Campbell Randall Keystone (8" blade) with lockable handle (U can use two hands to pull material true) lapskiver/splitter. For a cheap option, the Cowboy old Grey/white color 6 inch (CS. Osborne # 83 copy) to only 250 $. They all comes with ready sharpen blades but would need to be polished (stropped blades). Tandy make a copy of the # 84 to a higher price than the originals from (CSO and CR), I cannot see why anybody want to buy that. They also have the modified (6 inch) model #83 copy with lockable handle, also terrible over priced. Cowboy also make this model, they are both made in China (belive also cheaper priced). All models need to be polished after some work. However, good US made models from CSO and CR will keep an edge longer and have a better second hand value; better tool for the money. Price on the two first models are from 550 to 600 US $. With a sharp/polished machine you will split all firm leather up to about three inches wide with easy, chrome or wegtan. They would skive up to 2 inch wide, because you would need one hand to operate the handle and the other to pull material true. Any wider would be hard to pull true. Blade length length has nothing to do with how wide you can splitting or skive, it just gives you more sharp blade to work with (you have vary, use the hole length on the blade to keep it evently used). For splitting wider pieces you need a motorized/cranked or Bandknife Splitting machine. For skiving wider pieces and soft leather you need a bell knife skiving machine, skive lenght up to two inches and as wide you want. There are also 5 in 1 shoe machines with crank skive/splitting option, blade is about 1 3/4 inch wide (45 mm. on my machine). Means a skiving length of 1 3/4 inch and as wide you want too. Only for firm leather and a bit short skiving length for lap skiving belts/reins over 1 inch wide. You could use such machine, but the two first machine will give you a better skiving result. I would recommend you buy one of the two first mention machines from CR or CSO. Good luck Tor

Hi Mishkin Modern European screw Presses comes in two systems, Astor and the regular (Italian). The regular takes M6x1.0 (metric 6 mm with 1.0 threads) top and 12 mm (un threaded) hole in the bottom. The German Astor system takes 7/16" (W14 threading bit fits) on top and 9 mm (without threads) bottom. Astor converting adapters for using standard European dies in Astor Presses are in sale several places. I just bought (and sold again) an old European press that had a smaller bottom hole, but took the regular M6 die on top. I suspect your press could be similar to that. Then you can just drill the bottom hole a bit larger to use the standard dies on it. Tor

Sorry, my machine has a inbuilt motor for the feed wheel. I have not seen any tutorials on such setups on the youtube.

Thanks for the insight Eric, I believe there are some pretty reasonable priced options out there. Like the Hohsing G60 needle position motor, the price in Europe is under 200 US$. There are also other good Hohsing motors under 450 $. The G 60 is 600W with needle position and speed control that works as it should do. Hohsing are a professional brand, and have motors that can compare to Efka, I never heard anything but good things about them. I have several friends that use them, you can't get them to buy anything else. Tor

Personally I'm happy with my Efka motors and I know who sells them in Germany. However, the motor is not pictured in any of the German dealers Web sites (Sieck.de and Frank Brunnet are both Hightex dealers in Germany). There are a lot of potential buyers here that read reviews on Chinese motors. I like to belive there are progress, they make better product all the time. The problems with today's Chinese servo motors that remains to be solved are speed control and needle position. It's not a problem to produce good solutions, but how to produce them economical. Let us see this new motor, is it any good. Thanks Tor

Hi Darren, why don't you post some pics and give us some facts/specs about their new motor. It's an servo motor without needle position, am I right? I have only seen poor pictures of it. where to buy and price. Thanks Tor

Thank you Brian, I already received several manuals from Captain Itch. Some are from Campbell Randall and some from Fortuna. I'm good now thank you.

Call Greg at Keystone (above), I'm sure he have something. If not try Bob Kowar member name "CowboyBob" Toledo industrial Sewing machines. You start with removing the nut. I do not know this motor, but I'm sure one of the above mentioned dealers do. They will take care of you. Tor

JLSleather, you use epoxi. But remember to leave a little gap between the wood and the metal, because metal would expand with heat and make the wood Crack (fill the gap with epoxi glue), here is one I had made for a motor. Work very well, it's cocobolo wood.

Professional Italian leather burnisher machines use metal burnisher bits. They use heating elements inside them. An advantage with metal is that is easy to clean after using wax. Stainless steel conduct very little heat, I think brass would be the best material. Aluminium will work too but not as good as brass will. I have a problem with pasting in links. You will see an example of such machine in this site Sieck.de then go to "belt manufacturing": Sieck type 709 H leather edge closing machine with heat. Tor

Hi, I have five different ploughs, all of different pattern. The Blanchard 100 mm (current model) is the one I like the best. The roller on it is spring loaded and supports the leather at all time. The roller can also be locked in the position you want. I Have a couple of 150 mm wide too, but never had the use for more than 100 mm. There is no doubt that the plough gauge is the best strap cutter for wide straps, more than a inch wide. But it will cut work fine on thinner straps too. As with all strap cutters it's a technique to use them. It's easier to master than a draw gauge anyway. Keep the knife polished with the bevel on the side against the guide/fence. This way it will push the leather against the guide ensuring a consistent even cut strap. If you buy the Blanchard you have a tool that last more than a live time, you may wear out some blades in it. Make sure the tool comes with at least one knife, Blanchard sell them both with and without the knife. I have no problem recommending this tool to you, it's number one. Tor

I use the plough gauges by Blanchard. Are you thinking of buying a new one?I use ploughs on strap over an inch wide and the US draw gauge (CSO) on thinner straps. The plough are pushed in to the leather and compress rather than stretch it. Anyway, both types of tools efficiency depend on how their blades are set up. They need to have an edge on one side to press the leather against the guide and be properly sharpen/stropped. The Blanchard plough have a scale in millimeters and the construction are the same they had for years. The knifes are not the same quality as old stock tools and I do not know how they come set up. You could buy an old stock plough from Bruce Johnson with a knife already set up properly. I do have a couple of the original wooden strap cutters, they are not professional tools. They are affordable tools, I could sell you one. I have not used them for years, I have no plans to use them in the future either. Tor

I have the same motor on my DA 267-373 machine, but with an other control box PF-62 AV (it's an old motor now). It's a very smooth running motor, but less power that the new DC 1550 motors. Anyway, should be a switch for the needle stop up or down. I do not think it will run with out the syncronisher, if it runs it will be no speed control on it either. I do not understand why you want to disconnect the synchronizer?? You have stitch by stitch opertunity, you do not want to sew half a stitch? I would recommend the newer stronger Efka DC 1550 (with control box of choice or AB 321) for such a heavy machine. Perhaps that DC 1600 motor struggles a bit on thick materials. Anyway, I love these Efka motors, it's the best there is on the marked. If you wonder about anything with them you can contact Efka for free (live time) support. They will help you on Skype video call to set up your motor. Tor

Here is my Rose knife, I'm changing the handle and brass on it (when I got some time to spare). I will make the new handle in cocobolo/rosewood, silver solding the brass and use epoxi glue to fix it. I see no point in using a pin anymore when we have the modern epoxi glue. If you are using old fashion shell lack glue like they did hundred years ago, then a pin would be neccessary. Tor

I have to ask the same question as Constabulary asked before, what screws are you looking for? When it comes to adjustments screw like the thread tension and stitch lever adjustment they are special screws with fine threads. It got to be like that when it's for adjustments. Old Pfaff spare parts might be hand made in Germany if they are obsolete, that's expensive. Some are still avaiable. Tor

I got the Ferdco lower needle guide in the post today. Bought it second hand for 50 $ and it looks pretty good. No hits by a needle, pretty much as new (some cosmetic signs of use of course). A new one is 100 $ from the Hoffman Bros. Haven't got the time to try it yet. Here is some pics of it compared to my serrated feed dog. It's not possible to modify my type of blanket feed dog in to one. However, the might be others out there with more "meat" That can be modified. By the way, I think it will fit the Adler 205-370 too. It certainly fit a 105-64 and a class 5, not that it would be of much use there II use it for comparison only. Tor

Hi, I cannot see the picture of the shuttle. The manual are in German. I can send you the 23 pdf´s, you can print them out on paper. Send me your email in an PM (better not show it here to avoid spammers) Here is the saddlers attachment pack for Adler class 5. It's pretty much the same as the one for the Singer 45K. The feed dog for the flat plate is on the machine. You have different guides, binder, knife and many different presser feets. A double harness guide and some bits and screws. (the little shuttle, left in pic # 2 do not belong to this machine. In fact I do not know where it belongs, came with the machine when I bought it several years ago) Send me your email address and I will give you the pdf ´s. Tor

Hi GPaudler, that plate was not lying; this is exactly the same machine as the older Cl. 5-27 a proper 105-27. And what a nice looking set up you have there, very nice stand! Darren, what difference this from a class -25 is the spring loaded jump foot, the -25 has a driven upper foot. This foot only follows the material backwards and jump forward again caused by the springs action (no feeding action). This is still a bottom feed only, but the jump foot will allow sewing with much lower foot pressure; then again less markings on bottom side leather. Adler made this system for sewing leather, who invented it I do not know. Anyway, it's forerunner cl. 5-27 was a leather machine for saddlers and the best lockstitch for the job at the time of manufacturing. I cannot find any record of the 105-27 anywhere. But I'm used to surprises from the Adler company, they made a lot of special machines there are no record of anymore (available online anyway) I've used my old 5-27 for many years before I upgraded to a 441, I've sewed 16 mm. thick leather on it. I have all the saddlers attachments for it, my good old backup machine is still in mint condition. About adjusting the jump foot: the screw you are asking about (front face side of the head) is for adjusting the jump foot hight. You have to adjust is just as high as it clears the material on its way back. You will here it clicks back in forward position. Adjusted to low it will not return forwards again. To high does not really matters, but then it will lift unnecessarily high; it's to much mechanical work for the machine that slowing it down. Adjust it just high enough to clear the material and lock it in place with the locking lever (one armed wing nut) inside the screw. There are a short description in the user manual for the Adler class 4 and 5. It's also a description of the different attachments and sewing techniques of these machines, machines with the "mitgehende näfuss" spring loaded jumpfoot. (I do not have the proper characters on my tablet to write it correct in German). We have posted this (German) manual here before and I belive that Constabulary saved all the files I posted in to one pdf. (I have it in 23 pdf files, each containing one page of the manual) Or do I remember wrongly? If so I will post them again. Very nice work with you stand, I love it! If your shuttle tension does not tension thin threads anymore, then your bobbin thread spring is worn out. They usually do after some time. There are no Springs available for this open type shuttle. However, you can change it for the newer closed type shuttle of same size. (Use the one for the Adler and not the Singer 45, they have different hook tips but look very simmilar) DA part # 0005 002904 is the new small shuttle (for this you can buy separate bobbin springs and screws for too, your old open type shuttle is not supported anymore) I know this will be of importance for you in the future, if it's not already. You can also buy this (#0005 002904) shuttle from Japanese Hirose or Italian Ceralini. Cowboy sewing machine (Hightex) in China also have it available. Good luck with your beautiful machine. PS. Here is a pic of the old closed shuttle #05 195 for the Adler cl. 4 and 5. It looks like this shuttle is in your machine now, cannot be sure before you take a better picture, thought. Tor

HI Bob, what motor are you using on your new Cowboy 4500 and others, do you use the new Hightex Cowboy servo motor?

Hi Jackie, email sent Tor