Trox

Hi Bruce, Pm sent. Tor

That's a nice story MacEachran When I grew up people could not afford buying alcohol. The government has monopoly on selling both wine and spirits. You had to stand in line sometimes for hours to buy some. They added several hundred prosent tax so people could not afford it. We inherited distillation apparatus and the knowledge from our fathers, as they had from their fathers. The spirit was made from sugar and yeast, distilled once or twice to get it over 92 % strong (96 % is maximum before it turns in to gas). Some that had fruit in their gardens made the liquor based on that and that tasted sometimes better. From the strong clean spirits people mixed their own whiskey and Brandy, but it tasted like crap. The best way was to drink it clean (96 % strong) with Coffey and sugar. Saturday night when we went to the dance party they served only halv full Coffey cups, but every body was drunk as H.... Every year before Christmas my father made alcohol, it was not legal but the police turned the blind eye. Everybody who was not rich did it, the police families too. The government still have the wine and spirits monopoly, but the prices has normalized (still the most expensive place in Europe, thought). They have turned it in to a regular shop with service minded people. Most people want to keep the government monopoly, because they treat their customers well and they have a huge product range. Young people today do not make their own liquor, but many buy from smugglers. The smugglers sell to everyone including kids, so I do not know what the government trying to achieve with their alcohol policy

Where I live we use something a bit stronger in the coffee. It's between 94 and 96 % pure alcohol and we make it our self. I belive you call it moonshine. We call it coffee doctor over here, I think that's because you often need to see one after drinking it Tor

That's great Bruce, I can send you some more of that special liquid saddle soap. Let me check and I let you know later today, that's tomorrow for you. Thank you. Tor

http://www.kwokhing.com/KHF/ Tell them what machine you have, they have more that is listed on their site.

Anyway, that motor won't sell for 25 USD. If he paid 400 dollars for that motor then he should complain to the police, it's a robbery! Only good thing is that's a four pole motor, they are easier to control and can rotate both ways. However, it's add no value to the machine, you most likely will give it away and install a servo motor. Tor

Hi Marius, although the Flomax 335 clone is a versatile machine, they would not preform well with any thicker thread than than Nm 40 (tex 69). Perhaps a size heavier on top, but the small bobbin will not take much of it. There are versions of the new Pfaff 335 that have a larger hook and perhaps some clones do too. Motors, I was offered the same motor as Uwe found on Ebay for free the other day. The Efka variostop is from the 1980 (and up). It's a three Phase clutch motor (380 V) with needle position, electronic clutch and brake. It has 6 to 12 pre set speeds on the pedal depended of model and was the first of its kind. Marius, you know these motors, you had the same on your 45K machine. We set that motor up with an frequency converter and it sewed just fine. I think the motor I was offered for free is still available if anybody needs it. It's in good condition but the location is Oslo, Norway (pickup only). Anyway, 200 Euro it way too expensive for that old motor. If you can buy a Ho Hsing G 60 serie 600 watt servo motor for £ 160.-, then you will have a professional motor for a good price. It has a needle position that works as it should do, and they say the low speed control are very good. That's a plain motor with needle position only, but you can add a Ho Hsing control box to it later. I did not know that was a possibility before I saw it yesterday on their YouTube channel. That means you can build on anything you want to it, just like their more expensive motor systems. That option is a game changer, for sure. Ho Hsing make top motors and are a alternative to Efka. A Japanese motor with a price that can compete with Chinese motors, that sound good to me. I have a friend that bought one for his Pfaff 345 cylinder bed, and he says it preforms well. Let us know what you decide to do. Tor

Hi Nelson, That's a red smurf, one of the machine operators that came with the machine. There was a hole bunch of them that worked on this huge machine. The others had lunch when I took the photo. When I sold the machine they left too

I had mine for many years now and it still cut thick leather like butter, it's for sure the best there is. On the picture it looks like a normal shears, but it has thick powerful jaws. To find something that cut thicker leather than this, then it must have geared mechanism or very long handles. I am surprised it's still do not cost more money, but I guess it's because there are so many copies around. The Craftool version of this shears cost 70,60 US$ in Tandy´'s European website. And I am general surprised that so many choose to buy coiped/cloned tools at shops like Tandy when the real things are available elsewhere and sometimes much cheaper too. I would prefer the original EZ cut by Osborne even if it was three times the price of the Craftool one. Here the copy cost twice the original tool? Difficult choice, I do not think so. One more example: The CS. Osborne # 84 splitting/skiving machine (or Campbell Randall Keystone splitter that is the same machine). Costs between 550 and 600 $ (@ Zack White or @ Campbell Randall) and clones go for over 700 $, even a Chinese made improved Osborn # 83 clone cost more than 600 $ (that is a smaller model). It's important that there are companies that sell inexpensive tools for beginners. However, keep it real. Always do some searching and ask in the forum before buying more expensive tools. It's important to support the old tool makers that make the good stuff, there are not many around anymore. English J Dixon tools stopped trading last year, so in Europe it's only the Blanchard company left. Good luck. Tor

Thank you Bruce, I knew you had this knowledge . And thank you for checking the horse shoe brand compass tip too. I did a quick google search and found the Versa tips at Sheridan leather http://www.sheridanleather.com/Versa_Groover_p/dt-versa.htm They sell three sizes to 17 $ a piece http://www.sheridanleather.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=DT%2Dtips#PhotoSwipe1438977811922 I will check it out. Lots of nice stuff on your site now Bruce. It's frustrating that the US$ are so high against the Norwegian currency right now. For one and a half year ago, I paid a bit over 5 NOK for 1 US$. Now I have to pay almost 8,5 NOK for 1 US$. It's nearly the double. They say the NOK will go up in the end of this year, cause they (the Norwegian goverment) devalued it them self to be more competitive to foreign trade. I really hope it will normalize, like it is now I can't afford buying much from your country. Perhaps the Dollar will come down a bit too. Please let me know what you find out. Thank you. Tor

Thank for the explanation, that's what I thought it meant yes.

So basically they made a production tool with fixed width (widths) that is small and handy for the bridle production. I prefer to use a draw gauge on reins under a inch and plough gauge for wider straps. I would like to have something small like this tool, that could be pushed. But what kind of blades do you use in them? If they are utility blades, do they not flex?

HI and thanks for posting this video and info. Impressing speed on this bridle maker, nice work too. I have seen this video before, then and now I have the same question: This tool the bridle maker is using instead of a plough gauge, I think it was called a "razor gauge" or something like that. I have never seen these strap cutting tools, other than in this video. Do you have some more information about it, and perhaps where they are sold. In advance thank you. Tor

Hi, have a look at my post #37 in this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37299&hl=%20decent%20%20roller%20%20edge%20%20guide&page=3 The priced on these guides are adjusted upwards now. However, it still cheap compared to others. The same guide is also sold by various industrial sewing machine dealers. The upper part of the Pfaff 145 head is very similar, almost identical to the Pfaff 345 cylinder bed machine. I hope this will help you. Tor

Very generous of you Aron. I still don't a understand the word "FUD", I did a search on it and it was explained as an sales technique. Tor

I have an old CS Osborne Compass style stitch grover with replaceable tip. My question is, do anybody know if there are new tip's available for them somewhere? I see that Weaver sells a similar compass of the Horse shoe brand, do anybody know if their tip will fit a Osborne Compass. I have only seen those on pictures and they look a bit bigger to me. The tip on my tool is ready to be replaced. If anybody have any knowledge about this, please let me know. Thank You. Tor

Osborne EZ Shears http://www.csosborne.com/no708.htms Is the best that ever been made. Looks like an ordinary Shears, but this will cut 3 mm vegan leather like butter. There are copies made that work well too. Here is the Original tool http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_2&product_id=270 Tor

Do you want a binding foot set or a complete set with a leather binder. You can ask http://www.kwokhing.com/ here. They have leather binders and foot set for most Asian made machines. Tor

That shuttle looks to me like an Adler shuttle, it has a Grove behind the hook tip. Or am I wrong, it's hard to see on your pictures. Singer shuttles has straight hook tips. I did not see what Constabulary wrote earlier. But he is right, normally when the bobbin spring is looking like that the bobbin house are worn out too. So changing the spring alone will not help. The changes of shuttle driver made before are normally made to fit bigger shuttles. The changes between those drivers are so big that a small shuttle will fall out with the wrong driver (and a big shuttle will not fit in the small shuttle driver) I do not think it's possible make this wrong, to fit the wrong size in. It's very common to find a Singer shuttle in a Adler class 5 (or 4) or an Adler shuttle in a Singer 45. But there are difference between them. If it's a Adler shuttle it will be to much distance between the hook and the needle and that can cause skipped stitches. Again, it's hard to see before you take it out and take a pic of it. Tor

I do not think there are any difference between the open and closed frame shuttles. And there should be play between the shuttle and shuttle driver. But not in the driver and shaft. Both Singer and Adler came with open and closed frame shuttles at the same time. They both fit the same driver. I see your bobbin spring and likely bobbin house are worn out, as they commonly are. You will not be able to tension thin bobbin thread in that. Perhaps not thick thread either. The best thing is to buy a new closed frame shuttle from Hirose or Ceralini. There are a small difference between Adler and Singer shuttles on the hook tip, so get one for Singer. Have you checked your hook needle timing? Perhaps you can take a pic of your machine with thread stand, fully threaded. Then it's easier to see if there are faults in the thread path that causes skipping stitches. Since it's starting after some time of sewing I suspect it's a thread path error or a result of several small errors. Anyway that shuttle should be changed out if you are planning to use this machine, that's for sure. You need consistent thread tension both top and bottom to sew more than a few stitches. Give us a full machine pic too. Tor

Hi Tom, I know this is not the kind of Arbor press you are talking about. But perhaps you can adapt the centering idea of this self sentencing press. You can talk to Itch about it, Weaver leather also have a similar system for their punch press. https://youtu.be/g7W4-oj3sEc Tor

I have both traditional creasers and electric heated ones. The last ones are for use in a temperature controlled soldering iron (or Pyro graphic handle). And are similar to the ones this add call round creaser. But that is the wrong name on this creaser. The first one is called adjustable creaser and next one only creaser, forget the name "round creaser". It's wrong and misleading, I can understand why it will give an impression of doing something else that it actually does. All the US made traditional creasers are round inside. But they are not called round creaser only creasers. On the European made ones I have seen both shapes. The round shape will fit over an already rounded and burnished edge with out damaging it. And perhaps it was easier to make them rounded in side at the time of hand making 100 to 200 years ago. Here is an example on an traditional US made creaser single line http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-5-Osborne-Single-Line-CREASER-LEATHER-Working-Tools-saddle-making-/311410532249?hash=item4881839f9981839f99 And double line: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-RARE-C-S-Osborne-3-Double-Line-CREASER-LEATHER-Working-Tools-saddle-making-/161774392625?hash=item25aa815531 And yes I have used them all too. I prefer to use the good old US made ones from CS and HS Osborne, Gomp and more. I heat them with an small electric finishing stove made for the job. There are better creasing bits for sale on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Edge-Decorate-DIY-tool-Brass-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Edge-Marking-Creaser-tip-/291438221921?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43db125a61. These are better made an will fit in an soldering iron with temperature control. These are copies of the original French electric filet tool from Regad. Then you need a something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Welding-Soldering-Iron-Solder-Heat-Tool-Temperature-Adjustable-220V-60W-/261540897329?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce50d6231. This setup will work for heat creasing, but to get a perfect tool you need a proper heat control (to achieve an accurate temperature). And those are expensive, but will also work for heat treatment on leather edges (edge paint and so on). I hope this will answer your question. Good luck. Tor

You van use the Giardini max edge paint http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ That's an Italian professional edge paint system same as used by famous European bag makers like Hermes etc. You can get a free sample from them only paying for the postage. I have tried it out now and I am really satisfied with the result and all the mechanical stress this paint can withstand. For use on every leather regardless of type. Comes in a lot of colors /effects and the best thing; you can buy the amount you want. From 250 Ml and up. Check it out. Tor

Yes, you are right it is a release. When you push down the pedal the roller moves downwards, the spring keeps the roller up against the adjustable stopping screw. Anyway, this will now allow you to use both your hands pulling the leather true. Before you had to keep one hand on the adjustment lever to keep the roller up against the stopping screw (on the right in the pic.)If the spring is strong enough you can also make a skive, when slowly releasing your foot pressure.

They both look the same, non of them will changes the edge. That's the job of an edge beader and not a creaser. All type of creasers will make a line or more paralell to the edge, but not change the edge. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37776 look at post # 2 of Bruce Johnson, where he explain the different of a push beader and edge beader tool. All leather crease different and chrome tan leather will in general not crease well. I might add that these electric creasing tool do not have very nice creasing bits in them. They are not polished and are roughly made. Then they have no heat control and a proper heat control is expensive. A dimmer is no heat control. You will achieve better control with and old fashion gas/alcohol stove and traditional creasers. They are better made, easier to work with, make better crease impressions and straighter lines. Bruce Johnson sell the used good old ones. Tor