Trox

I had mine for many years now and it still cut thick leather like butter, it's for sure the best there is. On the picture it looks like a normal shears, but it has thick powerful jaws. To find something that cut thicker leather than this, then it must have geared mechanism or very long handles. I am surprised it's still do not cost more money, but I guess it's because there are so many copies around. The Craftool version of this shears cost 70,60 US$ in Tandy´'s European website. And I am general surprised that so many choose to buy coiped/cloned tools at shops like Tandy when the real things are available elsewhere and sometimes much cheaper too. I would prefer the original EZ cut by Osborne even if it was three times the price of the Craftool one. Here the copy cost twice the original tool? Difficult choice, I do not think so. One more example: The CS. Osborne # 84 splitting/skiving machine (or Campbell Randall Keystone splitter that is the same machine). Costs between 550 and 600 $ (@ Zack White or @ Campbell Randall) and clones go for over 700 $, even a Chinese made improved Osborn # 83 clone cost more than 600 $ (that is a smaller model). It's important that there are companies that sell inexpensive tools for beginners. However, keep it real. Always do some searching and ask in the forum before buying more expensive tools. It's important to support the old tool makers that make the good stuff, there are not many around anymore. English J Dixon tools stopped trading last year, so in Europe it's only the Blanchard company left. Good luck. Tor

Thank you Bruce, I knew you had this knowledge . And thank you for checking the horse shoe brand compass tip too. I did a quick google search and found the Versa tips at Sheridan leather http://www.sheridanleather.com/Versa_Groover_p/dt-versa.htm They sell three sizes to 17 $ a piece http://www.sheridanleather.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=DT%2Dtips#PhotoSwipe1438977811922 I will check it out. Lots of nice stuff on your site now Bruce. It's frustrating that the US$ are so high against the Norwegian currency right now. For one and a half year ago, I paid a bit over 5 NOK for 1 US$. Now I have to pay almost 8,5 NOK for 1 US$. It's nearly the double. They say the NOK will go up in the end of this year, cause they (the Norwegian goverment) devalued it them self to be more competitive to foreign trade. I really hope it will normalize, like it is now I can't afford buying much from your country. Perhaps the Dollar will come down a bit too. Please let me know what you find out. Thank you. Tor

Thank for the explanation, that's what I thought it meant yes.

So basically they made a production tool with fixed width (widths) that is small and handy for the bridle production. I prefer to use a draw gauge on reins under a inch and plough gauge for wider straps. I would like to have something small like this tool, that could be pushed. But what kind of blades do you use in them? If they are utility blades, do they not flex?

HI and thanks for posting this video and info. Impressing speed on this bridle maker, nice work too. I have seen this video before, then and now I have the same question: This tool the bridle maker is using instead of a plough gauge, I think it was called a "razor gauge" or something like that. I have never seen these strap cutting tools, other than in this video. Do you have some more information about it, and perhaps where they are sold. In advance thank you. Tor

Hi, have a look at my post #37 in this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37299&hl=%20decent%20%20roller%20%20edge%20%20guide&page=3 The priced on these guides are adjusted upwards now. However, it still cheap compared to others. The same guide is also sold by various industrial sewing machine dealers. The upper part of the Pfaff 145 head is very similar, almost identical to the Pfaff 345 cylinder bed machine. I hope this will help you. Tor

Very generous of you Aron. I still don't a understand the word "FUD", I did a search on it and it was explained as an sales technique. Tor

I have an old CS Osborne Compass style stitch grover with replaceable tip. My question is, do anybody know if there are new tip's available for them somewhere? I see that Weaver sells a similar compass of the Horse shoe brand, do anybody know if their tip will fit a Osborne Compass. I have only seen those on pictures and they look a bit bigger to me. The tip on my tool is ready to be replaced. If anybody have any knowledge about this, please let me know. Thank You. Tor

Osborne EZ Shears http://www.csosborne.com/no708.htms Is the best that ever been made. Looks like an ordinary Shears, but this will cut 3 mm vegan leather like butter. There are copies made that work well too. Here is the Original tool http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_2&product_id=270 Tor

Do you want a binding foot set or a complete set with a leather binder. You can ask http://www.kwokhing.com/ here. They have leather binders and foot set for most Asian made machines. Tor

That shuttle looks to me like an Adler shuttle, it has a Grove behind the hook tip. Or am I wrong, it's hard to see on your pictures. Singer shuttles has straight hook tips. I did not see what Constabulary wrote earlier. But he is right, normally when the bobbin spring is looking like that the bobbin house are worn out too. So changing the spring alone will not help. The changes of shuttle driver made before are normally made to fit bigger shuttles. The changes between those drivers are so big that a small shuttle will fall out with the wrong driver (and a big shuttle will not fit in the small shuttle driver) I do not think it's possible make this wrong, to fit the wrong size in. It's very common to find a Singer shuttle in a Adler class 5 (or 4) or an Adler shuttle in a Singer 45. But there are difference between them. If it's a Adler shuttle it will be to much distance between the hook and the needle and that can cause skipped stitches. Again, it's hard to see before you take it out and take a pic of it. Tor

I do not think there are any difference between the open and closed frame shuttles. And there should be play between the shuttle and shuttle driver. But not in the driver and shaft. Both Singer and Adler came with open and closed frame shuttles at the same time. They both fit the same driver. I see your bobbin spring and likely bobbin house are worn out, as they commonly are. You will not be able to tension thin bobbin thread in that. Perhaps not thick thread either. The best thing is to buy a new closed frame shuttle from Hirose or Ceralini. There are a small difference between Adler and Singer shuttles on the hook tip, so get one for Singer. Have you checked your hook needle timing? Perhaps you can take a pic of your machine with thread stand, fully threaded. Then it's easier to see if there are faults in the thread path that causes skipping stitches. Since it's starting after some time of sewing I suspect it's a thread path error or a result of several small errors. Anyway that shuttle should be changed out if you are planning to use this machine, that's for sure. You need consistent thread tension both top and bottom to sew more than a few stitches. Give us a full machine pic too. Tor

Hi Tom, I know this is not the kind of Arbor press you are talking about. But perhaps you can adapt the centering idea of this self sentencing press. You can talk to Itch about it, Weaver leather also have a similar system for their punch press. https://youtu.be/g7W4-oj3sEc Tor

I have both traditional creasers and electric heated ones. The last ones are for use in a temperature controlled soldering iron (or Pyro graphic handle). And are similar to the ones this add call round creaser. But that is the wrong name on this creaser. The first one is called adjustable creaser and next one only creaser, forget the name "round creaser". It's wrong and misleading, I can understand why it will give an impression of doing something else that it actually does. All the US made traditional creasers are round inside. But they are not called round creaser only creasers. On the European made ones I have seen both shapes. The round shape will fit over an already rounded and burnished edge with out damaging it. And perhaps it was easier to make them rounded in side at the time of hand making 100 to 200 years ago. Here is an example on an traditional US made creaser single line http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-5-Osborne-Single-Line-CREASER-LEATHER-Working-Tools-saddle-making-/311410532249?hash=item4881839f9981839f99 And double line: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-RARE-C-S-Osborne-3-Double-Line-CREASER-LEATHER-Working-Tools-saddle-making-/161774392625?hash=item25aa815531 And yes I have used them all too. I prefer to use the good old US made ones from CS and HS Osborne, Gomp and more. I heat them with an small electric finishing stove made for the job. There are better creasing bits for sale on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Edge-Decorate-DIY-tool-Brass-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Edge-Marking-Creaser-tip-/291438221921?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43db125a61. These are better made an will fit in an soldering iron with temperature control. These are copies of the original French electric filet tool from Regad. Then you need a something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Welding-Soldering-Iron-Solder-Heat-Tool-Temperature-Adjustable-220V-60W-/261540897329?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce50d6231. This setup will work for heat creasing, but to get a perfect tool you need a proper heat control (to achieve an accurate temperature). And those are expensive, but will also work for heat treatment on leather edges (edge paint and so on). I hope this will answer your question. Good luck. Tor

You van use the Giardini max edge paint http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ That's an Italian professional edge paint system same as used by famous European bag makers like Hermes etc. You can get a free sample from them only paying for the postage. I have tried it out now and I am really satisfied with the result and all the mechanical stress this paint can withstand. For use on every leather regardless of type. Comes in a lot of colors /effects and the best thing; you can buy the amount you want. From 250 Ml and up. Check it out. Tor

Yes, you are right it is a release. When you push down the pedal the roller moves downwards, the spring keeps the roller up against the adjustable stopping screw. Anyway, this will now allow you to use both your hands pulling the leather true. Before you had to keep one hand on the adjustment lever to keep the roller up against the stopping screw (on the right in the pic.)If the spring is strong enough you can also make a skive, when slowly releasing your foot pressure.

They both look the same, non of them will changes the edge. That's the job of an edge beader and not a creaser. All type of creasers will make a line or more paralell to the edge, but not change the edge. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37776 look at post # 2 of Bruce Johnson, where he explain the different of a push beader and edge beader tool. All leather crease different and chrome tan leather will in general not crease well. I might add that these electric creasing tool do not have very nice creasing bits in them. They are not polished and are roughly made. Then they have no heat control and a proper heat control is expensive. A dimmer is no heat control. You will achieve better control with and old fashion gas/alcohol stove and traditional creasers. They are better made, easier to work with, make better crease impressions and straighter lines. Bruce Johnson sell the used good old ones. Tor

I found (stole) this picture on Ebay of an interesting Splitting machine modification. I believe it's an CS Osborne # 87 wood bottom splitting machine, or made of an different maker. There are no information about it, it's for sale together with a sewing machine and a lot of leather tools. The wooden base is replaced with this steel stand and it looks as the skiving depth are controlled by a foot pedal. Thought, that is guessing, because this was the only pictures of it. Anyway, I think it deserved some attention here. It will perhaps be for some inspiration to them who has one like it or simmilar. It looks like you can skive and split with this using both hands pulling the leather true. I like this modification. I do not know who made it, but it's a nice job. Tor

I think old leather tools is in a special position to the "patina or not" question, since they still are so useful to many. They are in high demand because of their craftsmanship and quality, they will beat all the new stuff with high margin. For most of the people who looks for them, patina is unwanted. And if they have patina it must be other than rust (if possible). Most of my user stuff are good old stock, a hundred years old and more. I too have a one of these nice Rose knifes laying around, the blade are good but it needs a new handle. I have not found the time to start on it yet, and perhaps because it's have such hard blade the refurbishing has delayed. The blade has an edge and no rust, but it still need to be polished to a high shine and that will take time. I looked at my blade and the stamp is clear and deep, the etched look is because of the rust prosess in the bottom of the stamp. Etching will not be as deep as a stamp. It's an proper stamp like they used before, not some crappy Etching they use now a days. I have a couple of new knifes with Etched stamps and they comes of very easy with some polishing. To all you tool markers of today, learn from the masters. Good old polished carbon steel and proper stamps, forget about these new "Super hard steels". We are going to cut leather with these knifes, not shop hard-wood. The Rose knife is a beautiful knife, I will have to make copy of the original handle. Mine has a non original handle on it now. It's on my non ending list of stuff to do, but I have to move it further up. Good luck with the refurbishing, do not forget to post pictures. Tor

I have an Italian bottom feed Skiving machine, set up with a constant speed bell knife and a small servo motor for the feed roller.(three motors total on the stand: one for the bell knive, one for the feed wheel and one for the exhaust). When I use it for thicker firm vegan leather, I change the stone feed wheel for a steel feed wheel. Then I can skive pretty thick leather on it and it feeds well. On the most common (simplest method) of setting up a skiving machine, they use one motor only, (clutch or servo). This motor will then propel both the feed wheel and the feed roller, when you slow down for better control then the bell knives runs slower too. It an advantage with an constant speed bell knive, it will simply be easier to use and skive better (perfect speed all the time). I think that any "fortuna" type of skiving machine can be set up like this. Mine came like that from the builder and have a small internal servo motor for the feed roller. A top and bottom feed will be a better choice for heavier leather, these are more expensive of course. The same set up with two motors would be best choice for that machine type as well. Then you can skive as slow as you want to until you master the machine. These machines has a pretty step learning curve, so anything that can make them easier to use its worth paying for. The most difficult task with all these machines are the adjustments, if you do not buy a new computerized machine that is. It will take some trial and errors (and a lot of test material) to get it right no matter where it comes from. Search the forum, try to do it with Google for more result. There are info about these machines here somewhere, not much but it is some. The trick is to keep the bell knife sharp at all time, without any burrs on the inside of the knife. Ask me/us when you get your machine in shop. The Italians where the leading country in making leather machine in the last half century, now it's the time of the Chinese. Most of the new stuff are made there if we like it or not, that is the case. These machines are not rocket science, I would not be afraid to buy an Chinese skiving machine today, I have an Chinese 441 machine I am happy with and some other equipment too. They have made these machine in China for some time now. It's all about how many hours a day you will use the machine. If it should run in a factory all day long, then buy an new Italian/German machine. If not, you will not be able to break one in a small leather workshop. Buy Chinese from a dealer who offers support, I am sure you will be asking questions no matter where it's from. Good luck! Tor

Use plastic bottle/jar and top up with as less air in them as possible. I use rubber gloves over the lids to make the absolutely air tight. Tor

Please add me too. Thanks Tor

I use Bontex and a other similar brand (I don't remember the name), it has glue on and you Iron it to the leather/fabrics. Tor

That's way I started to use the Giardini max edge paint http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ instead, it will apply to anything and stay there. I highly recommend you to try the free sample from them (that it's a big sample). I bought the little machine in the picture and a hand roller applicator too. The little machine works great and are very easy to clean, rinse in water only. You can adjust the amount of paint applied with this and the wheel are constructed the same way as on Profesional edge paint machines. The top gloss paint used over as an final protecting layer (Matt or glossy) can take very much mechanical stress. I have also tried it on top of Fibings edge paint and that worked well too. The problem with Fibings is that it's used after the edge are burished, then it will not stick good enough to the smooth edge. It comes off very easy like all (normal)paint will. Perhaps it would be an idea to using it like the Giardini paint on a raw edge. Round the edge but do not burnish, apply the paint and then burnish or heat treat the edge afterwards. Then it will stick better to the edge. Or perhaps burnish and ruff the edge a bit with sand paper so the paint sticks better. I have not tried these last two methods (with Fibings) myself, but I will when I got the time for it. I am currently using the above Italian pro edge paint and have no need for anything else. Another good thing with this paint, you can order how much/little you like (minimum 250 ml bottle). You can even order your own custom color. You get it in modern fancy neon colors with silver flakes if you need it, you name it....... So far I am very happy with it, it's a big step forwards from the traditional methods I used before; try it out. Before I bought this new paint system, I applied Fibings with a small piece of sponge attached to a clothespin. That is a good a cheap method to apply thin floating edge paint like that. It will not work on the modern polymers paint as it is very dense, it's applied to a Un rounded leather edge and makes a round finish edge. Tor PS. No I do not work for them, just happy with it.

Hi Constabulary, Thanks for your review of the Jack servo. But do not forget to mention what machine type you use it on. 750 Watt together with a speed reducer will normally create enough torque for an heavy stitcher. But Watt is not the same as torque (Nm), but an top speed measurment, effect. In my case the Cobra motor is used on a Pfaff 345 (medium tripple feed machine) and in action to a 3:1 reducer too. Then it's actually to strong for the machine, because it has no safety clutch and can knock it out of timing when a accident happen. It do not matter if the Jack servo don't have lower max top-speed setting than 200 rpm, if the low speed control on the pedal is good. It should be more than enough motor for an medium machine of the upholstery class with out the use of an speed reducer, is it? It comes both with and without needle position, does it not. Tor