Wizcrafts

When I got my first Union Lockstitch machine it didn't have a manual. I had to locate a harness maker that had a ULS and he was kind enough to photocopy his manual for me. I learned to thread and run the machine from that simple yellow manual. The fine tuning came with experience, experimentation and lots of bent needles. There are few devices that can match the awesome clapping and clanging sound of a Union Lockstitch machine sewing at full speed!

I use left and right toe zipper feet, depending on the nature of the job.

The 105-64 will be useful to you as long as you are sewing at least 1/8 inch of material with #138 or larger thread, using a #22 or larger needle. Also, your projects will have tooth marks on the bottom. If your jobs meet these minimums, the Adler may be a good investment (as long as it doesn't need expensive replacement parts).

This machine has been discussed on Leatherworker.net. Use your favorite search engine to search for this term: site: leatherworker.net adler 105-64

Sometimes you can lookup a Singer serial number and it will tell you the model number and how many were built on a particular date.

@Damas Welcome to Leatherworker.net and the Leather Sewing Machines forum. I see you are having trouble uploading your photos to your post. There is a rather small file size limit per photo so you may have to reduce the photos considerably to upload them. There are a number of online and offline programs that can reduce both the dimensions and quality to bring down the file size to under our limit. I recommend FastStone Photo Resizer. Sometimes you have to transfer photos from a phone or tablet to a computer to place them on a forum like ours. Try that after reducing their sizes.

You may be better off buying a Consew 206RB-5 than a Juki DNU-1541. Some buyers have reported repeated problems with that Juki model (problem 1, problem 2, problem 3).

Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.

My understanding of Floyd's reply is that while Adler walking foot machines are among the cream of the crop for upholstery use, few if any working upholstery shops can afford them, especially when equipped with the extra electronics panels shown in the OP's photos. NB: In my younger days I learned how to program a Hewlett Packard calculator that used Reverse Polish Notation input. That's how I am able, at the tender age of 70.5, to decipher this type of text. I use the same side of my brain to decipher spam messages containing what's known in the spam-filter trade as "salad words" that are meant to throw off spam filters.

See if you can find an authorized Pfaff dealer. They will know what feet and feeders are available for your 545. Gregg at Keystone Sewing knows a lot about most makes and models of industrial sewing machines, as does Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

The LU-1508NH is rated to handle #207 thread with up to a #24 needle. Load it with #207 thread, top and bottom, and a #23 leather point needle to start. If it skips stitches on test pieces add more foot pressure. If knots are showing on the bottom add more top thread tension. If it won't sew with that combination, try a #24 leather point needle. If that doesn't work you made a mistake. Try to exchange it for a heavy duty leather sewing machine that can handle at least #277 thread. If they won't take the machine back, sew your holsters with two parallel rows of #138 thread, 1/8 inch apart. Start on the lower outside then work your way around the inside and join the lower outside stitch line, over lapping about 4 or 5 stitches. Try to hit the same holes as you overlap. Alternately, double stitch #138 into the same holes with a #23 needle. Start about 1/2 inch from the bottom, sewing down in reverse, then sew forward to the top, then reverse all the way to the bottom. This should give the strength of #207, or even #277 thread as long as you hit the same holes all the way. You may need more thread pressure as you double stitch. This assumes that the machine has been properly setup to match the stitch length in forward and reverse. FYI: #138 bonded nylon thread is rated at no more than 22 pounds breaking strength (too marginal for serious holsters). #207 increases it to about 32 pounds (marginal). #277, the recommended size for 1/4" to 3/8" pancake holsters, is rated at 44 or 45 pounds test. Once I hit 1/2 inch I use #346 thread (53 pounds test). Note: Sewing with a larger thread on top and a size smaller in the bobbin reduces the breaking strength of the stitches to that of the smaller thread.

You will want totally smooth feet for the top and the softest points on the feed dog, or knurled, or smooth, if available (not likely). You only need teeth to move cloth and banners, or slippery materials. Teeth mark leather. You can reduce the marks on the bottom by backing off the foot pressure.

Yeah, new parts cast in the Orient almost never have the same dimensions as the originals made in precision Singer manufacturing plants.

This machine is friction driven by a tiny rubber wheel on the spring loaded motor that presses against the flywheel. It slips under the slightest resistance at the needle. This is the antithesis of a leather sewing machine. Strictly for soft cloth items.

There should be a hand lift lever on the back, plus a chain foot lifter on the steel floor bar, next to the GO pedal. The mechanism is based on the Singer 111w153 and uses the same parts inn the head.. Maybe the attached PDF will help you out. It's all I've got for this machine. 168w101.pdf

I have a Singer 168w101 and use it a lot. I just finished sewing a motorcycle seat with it. I started with #207 thread on the thickest seams, then moved down to #138 on thinner seams and the padded diamond patterns. These machines can sew up to 3.5 stitches per inch. If you don't want it send it to me!

DPx17 = 135x17 = SY3355, which is a standard geometry walking foot machine round point needle. This system is used to sew cloth and vinyl, but not leather. The leather points are System 135x16 and are made in several different styles, including LL, LR, Di and S point. Each produces its own stitch line and appearance. Most sewing machines purchased off eBay, or from upholstery shops, or Craigslist sellers come with round point needles, for cloth.

Some Pfaff parts are very expensive over here. Others not so much. There are Pfaff dealers in the USA who can probably get prices for you on those parts.

I modified a National walking foot machine to use system 190 needles and found that when I used #18 needles (sewing leather and suede rifle slings) they were very easily deflected and bent/broken. I went back to using the default system 135x16 needles and the deflection was all but eliminated. If you buy a machine setup for system 190 needles, try to stick with needles above #19/120 which calls for #92 thread. You can use #18 needles and #69 thread as long as the layers don't move or have anything in or on them that might deflect the long needle.

Are you aware that Strima is in Poland and that shipping may be expensive to the USA? You may have to meet a minimum price in the cart to order overseas and outside the EU.

I saw this machine in the Cowboy showroom at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It is called the CB243. It has the same capacities as the cylinder arm CB4500, but is a flatbed machine on a 20" x 48" table with a servo motor and speed reducer under the table. It definitely sews 1/2 inch and then some with thread sizes up to #415. Adler used to make an extra heavy duty flatbed walking foot machine called the 204-374. I had one for a short time in 2011. It sewed a solid half inch of leather with #277 thread and a #25 needle. But that was about all it could penetrate despite lifting high enough to sew 3/4. If equipped with a 3:1 speed reducer this machine would be suitable for flat holsters, heavy straps and other items 1/2 inch thick. Singer used to make an extra heavy spring foot walking foot machine called the 132k6. It maxes out at 1/2 inch and can handle #346 thread. But, that's pushing it. It is best limited to #277 thread with a #25 needle. All of the above are extra heavy duty machines that use huge needles that move extra thick thread. But, if you can get by with #207 bonded thread, a Juki LU-1508NH can sew just about 1/2 inch using system 190 needles (Requires dealer to set it up for this needle system). It wasn't made to sew holsters, just extra thick things that aren't necessarily dense. A photo of the machine on the Juki product page shows it sewing a moccasin type padded slipper.

The Sailrite Ultrafeed machines are good for about 1/4 inch, or 16 ounces of combined leather or vinyl. The maximum thread size is #92 (T90) bonded nylon or bonded polyester, which only has 15 pounds breaking strength. It will not safely sew a holster that can withstand any serious force on the gun. Quarter inch thick pancake holsters need to be sewn with #277 bonded thread (44 pound test per stitch), for security against stress on the stitch lines, which is way beyond the capacity of a Sailrite. You will need to look at harness and holster machines that are built to handle such heavy thread and the huge needles they require and extra strong pressure and tension springs that tension and pull up very strong thread into very dense leather. As for portable heavy stitchers, there is the Cowboy Outlaw, the Tippmann Boss (both hand cranked), and the Artisan Toro 3200BT bench mounted motorized heavy stitcher. You can also sew holsters with a sole stitcher, like the Junker & Ruh sole stitcher or a Gritzner or Frobana hand cranked sole stitcher (rarer than hen's teeth)

Yes, the left of the two small screws. BTW, where is the spring and its screws?

Open the sliding bobbin cover on the right side of the throat plate. Look at the shuttle and bobbin basket inside it. There is a tension spring on the outside of the bobbin basket, with a tiny adjustment screw near the middle and another on the right end that fastens the spring to the basket. If you hand wheel carefully you will expose the middle screw. Turn it clockwise to increase the bobbin thread tension. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen the tension, being careful to not totally unscrew it, or there will be trouble. Also, make sure you load the bobbins so they feed counterclockwise, against the direction of rotation of the hook.

You should hold back the starting threads when you begin sewing. Failure to do so allows the hook to pull the top thread inside the shuttle, jamming it up and halting the machine (and even throwing the timing out). You are using the correct combination of thread and needle "size," but maybe the wrong point. Since your layers are mixed leather and cloth and the thread is thin, you should use a round point needle instead of leather point (which cuts fabric badly). Pulling knots up into leather requires much more top spring tension than cloth. Crank down the foot pressure and top thread tension until the stitches are hidden between the layers. It is also possible that the machine has already been thrown out of time, causing the broken thread and birdsnests.