Wizcrafts

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Have you asked Raphael Sewing in Montreal, aka: Techsew? They import parts that are in Metric measurements, as is forced upon Canadians by law.

To this day, most upholsterers use clutch motors that are geared 1:1, or higher, with the machine pulley. They are used to sewing flat out at 2000 stitches per minute. In upholstery, time is money. Furthermore, until the servo motors became commonplace in the last few years, everybody had a clutch motor on their industrial sewing machines. Most of these sewers have learned how to feather the clutches. I still have clutch motors on a couple of machines and have no problem feathering them to one stitch per second. But then, I used to drive clutch cars.

With a #18 needle it will sew with #69 bonded thread. Leather points are available if it uses the common domestic System HAx1 needles (with a flat on the shank). Your uncommon machine was made in Germany in the early to mid 1950s (reference). Parts may or may not be a problem.

Here is a link to a pdf for the Singer 138w101 post bed machines.

As for changing the gauges on the Singer post machines, there was a topic about this as recently as March, 2018. Bob Kovar (@CowboyBob) found compatible parts in a catalog for the 138, but it required changing the needle bar before they would go on.

The non-walking foot machine was likely used to sew chrome tanned shoe uppers that don't have much drag. The teeth on the bottom really dig into the flesh side. If the original owner used small needles and thread, there wouldn't be much foot pressure required, making easy to feed shoe leather through it. Machines like the above will not be as good with veg-tan leather and thicker thread/bigger needles. You will be fighting to hold the leather down to avoid skipped stitches. But, if you are sewing seat covers and they aren't grabby on top, you should be good to go, with #92 thread and a #19 or 20 needle. It really depends on how the hooks are built and set from the needles. They may or may not allow #138 thread to pass around them. Plus, the throat plate holes, or feed dog holes must be large enough to clear #23 needles to use #138 thread.

If, as is being speculated, the top thread is overheating and burning, it can be run through a silicon lube pot that sticks on top of your machine (magnetic base). Factories with high speed machines have forced air tubes that they aim at the needle and blow cool air constantly as the machines spin at 90 stitches per second. Finally, you can buy titanium coated needles that are much more heat resistant than plain steel. I use these needles in all my walking foot and patch machines, not because of heat, but to resist the grab of the 3M leather tape I use to hold things together for sewing.

On the post machines, I believe you move the posts apart when you change the needle spacing. This will be tricky and may not even be doable if the needle bar or clamp cannot be changed. This is old tech.

When you sew fast the thread flops around the take-up area more so than at slow speeds. You may have to adjust the check spring setting, or lengthen the throw of the spring by moving the stop bracket down. Consult your owners' manual to see these parts.

What brand and model is your post machine?

Even I can't find a Singer 153 walking foot machine for sale at an affordable price in the USA and I live here. They were all sent into Outer Space in Elon Musk's Tesla Roadster space car.

Weaver Leather?

Like what models?

I have a Singer 31-15 that handles up to #69 bonded nylon thread and sews up to 1/4 inch of compressed material (not leather). It can sew wallet interiors made of thin pigskin or calf skin. If converted into a roller foot machine it can sew Chrome Excel shoe uppers. It doesn't like veg-tan leather at all. The pressure and tension springs aren't strong enough for veg. The Singer 31-15 and 96k40 are both tailoring and dressmaking machines. It can be used to do decorative stitching on shoe and boot uppers before they are assembled.

Yes and no. A new topic is actually the correct designation. The difference is that the designation "thread" usually refers to an ongoing topic with many replies. A new topic that has no replies is not actually a thread in that sense of the meaning. I refer to a new topic as a new topic, or new post. Once a discussion is underway, it becomes a (not new) thread. Hope that explains it adequately!

I buy most of my thread here. It is sold in matching colors across multiple sizes. For instance, straw color matches from #69 through #346. They stock 69, 92, 138, 207 and 277 in most primary colors and several shades of brown.

I use #69 thread on wallet interiors that are up to 4 ounces thickness. I move up to #92 thread for 5 to 8 ounces. I use #138 thread for 8 to 10 ounces. As a reference, #69 thread has a breaking strength of 11 pounds. Number 92 has about 15 pounds strength and #138 has 22 pounds test. I usually sew wallet interiors with #69 and combine them to the back with #92.

CowboySew already makes a synchronized binder attachment for their CB4500 and related machines. Ask Bob Kovar for the details.

Yeah, by almost a half inch more length. They are pretty much unique to the Adler long throw patch machines. I have a buddy with an Adler 30-70 and all he uses are #24 needles. Unfortunately, he can't spare any. No biggy.

I need some size 24 (Metric 180) leather point System 332 LLG needles. If any of you have some you can spare, shoot me a PM please. They are for an Adler 30-7 or 70, long throw patcher. My largest on hand are #23/160. I occasionally run #207 thread in my Adler patcher and a #23 needle causes some shredding of the bonding.

Your first and simplest upgrade should be to buy a Family Sew type of servo motor with a 2" (50mm) pulley downgrade (it comes with a 70mm pulley). Our supporting dealers have these specialty pulleys in stock. You will also need a shorter type 3L v-belt to go from the new motor and smaller pulley to the machine. If all goes well you should be able to at least control the speed of the machine. Low speed torque may suffer until you add a speed reducer.

Not all sewing machines lend themselves to pulley upgrades on the output shaft. Some models have the stitch length adjustment built into the handwheel. These cannot be replaced with a bigger wheel.

What ever are you talking about? This topic was about older Consew 206rb machines with clutch motors and large aftermarket pulleys on the top shafts.

That remains to be seen! These new patchers are clones of the Singer 29k series, which was pretty much perfected by Simanco. I have an Adler patcher that far exceeds the sewing capacity of my Singer patcher. It is a horse of a different color.