Wizcrafts

@Dwight Don't do it! Unless you have a machine shop and are skilled with metal working tools you are asking for more trouble than you can imagine. Why don't you check your local Craigslist, or Facebook Marketplace for an actual working used Singer 29ksomething patcher?

Here are some items to check for. Is the top thread threaded correctly through the tension disks, around the check spring, through the take-up lever, down to the guide on the needle bar? Is the foot lift lever down so the tension disks are closed and tensioning the thread? Is the needle inserted all the way up with the rib on the left and scarf on the right? Is the timing right? The hook should arrive at the centerline of the needle about 1/16 inch above the eye after the needle has risen about 3/32 inch above BDC. Does the hook pass the needle without hitting it or pushing it to the left? If it hits, move the hook to the right and retime. Is the bobbin case opener lever pulling back far enough on the flange on the bobbin case to let the top thread pass freely around the tab on the way out? Are you holding back the starting threads for a few stitches to lock them in place? Note: Retarded timing can cause the top thread to hang or snap as it goes around the shuttle. The extra stress can bind it at the positioning tab.

I use a #19 needle with v92 and a #22 or #23 with v138 bonded thread. If you use a needle that is too small it makes tighter holes and the take-up lever has to work harder to pull the knots up. It also tends to lift the leather as the threaded, knotted needle ascends. This causes missed stitches and ratted top thread. Here's a needle and thread chart that I consult.

You can start her out with a domestic sewing machine found at Joann Fabrics. They have a (Viking) section where there is a person demoing the machines they carry. They even give classes. Everything from sewing seams up to embroidery. If she gets good at it and wants to take the next step, you can buy her a straight stitch dress makers' sewing machine (e.g., Juki DDL-8700). Some of these spin at 90 stitches per second and have oil pumps! Not a beginners machine!

@CowboyBob has them made for the Cowboy machines he sells. They also fit on Cobra and Techsew 441 clones, as well as on the actual Juki TSC-441.

Awesome work!

@RockyAussie sells them directly. Message him through the forum PM system. I use his narrow set full time on my cb4500.

The Juki DDL-8700 is a light duty, high speed, straight stitch, bottom feed garment sewing machine. The high lift in the specs is the clearance under the raised foot for moving thich seams past the needle and foot. The needle is a DBx1, which is a short needle often used in garment sewing machines. You will probably be limited to a maximum thread size of #69, or possibly #92. This calls for needle sizes 18 and 19. The timing may have to be changed to use a #19 needle. The only leather this is going to sew is fashion leather like used in clothing, or light weight vests and thin wallets. This machine has an oil pump and needs to spin fast to distribute the oil to all the extremities. This machine is used in tailor and custom dress shops and small garment factories where they operate flat out at 50 or 60 stitches per second!

If you call Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397), they will ask for your current v-belt length to your motor and its pulley size. Then they will know what belts to include with the reducer.

@kgg - his machine is a shoe patcher! He can only use small patcher bobbins, #8604. Those have to be ordered from industrial sewing machine dealers. Here is one source.

You answered your own question. Just buy a speed reducer. A 2:1 reducer doubles the punching power at the expense of the top speed. I get my motors and reducers here.

Make sure the needle is firmly seated all the way up in the clamp and that the rib is on the due left and scarf on the due right. Ensure that you have threaded the top correctly. The route is as follows: Feed up from the spool to a loop overhead, then to the top of the machine. I usually feed the thread through the center cutout in the top rack. Under the lube pot clamp then out thru the lube pot hole. Around the post on the right side of the top tension disks and into the right side of the disks. Out of the disks and through the eyelet on the top front side of the head. Up to the take-up lever. Make sure the spring on top of the take-up lever is functional and exerts force to pull the lever up, but lets the lever go down as the rack moves up on the take-up stroke. Out of the take-up lever and down the needle bar hole, using a patcher threading rod or thin wire that has a V cut, or split on the bottom to hold the thread. Through the paddle spring above the needle clamp and down to the needle. Thread the needle left to right. Test to make sure there is tension on the thread with the foot lift lever down. Ensure that the paddle spring exerts some friction on the thread in the snout. If the paddle spring is bent, weak, or broken, the loop will dissolve before pick-off time and it will skip stitches. If the hook timing is off, adjust it via the eccentric screw accessed through a hole in the right side of the base of the machine. There is a rod coming down that joins a rod feeding under the arm. You'll have to wrangle a wrench under the base to loosen the nut on the back of the adjustment screw to turn it. Turn either way to get the best timing that picks off the loop as the needle moves down, then jogs up, then moves down again. Once the timing is right, tighten down the locking nut.

Ask and ye shall receive! Go here for a needle and thread chart.

Sailrite sells piping foot sets for their machines. Since you are using vinyl, feet with teeth won't be a problem.

You can order the hook and bobbins, threading rod and other replacement parts for shoe patchers from Bob Kovar (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines), and from @shoepatcher I uploaded three manuals for your patcher and similar models. 29K62.pdf Singer_29K.pdf Singer_29K58,_K60,_K62.pdf

The thickest thread you can run through the Rex 26-188 is probably #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. You will need a #24 needle to do this. If the leather isn't too dense you might be able to run #207 in the bobbin also. This was discussed in a previous topic.

System 135x17 is a round point needle system. Here is an ebay supplier selling #19 round point needles in size 19 that will fit your machine.

The first thing I would recommend is moving UP to a #18 or 19 needle. Stick with round points for carpeting. I have a customer who makes custom car floor pads and brings them to me for the final sewing and edging. I use #69 bonded nylon with a #18 or 19 needle, depending on how tight the jute is woven on the back. I also run them through my Hobby Lock serger to finish the edges, again with #18 needles and #69 thread.

That's good to know! It causes me to wonder if Union Lockstitch awls and needles will work in a Puritan.

You could ask Techsew for clarification of those specs. They may have beefed up some parts and modified others.

Post a close-up, low resolution (for file size) photo showing how the thread is going around the top tension guide and disks. It may be getting caught on the post that keeps the disks in their position, or it might be outside the disks, or incorrectly threaded around the check spring. Make sure that the thread doesn't drop under the thread spool and jam there.

The top tension is always greater then the bobbin tension on a lockstitch machine. If you want less top tension, back off the bobbin spring until it requires a minimum pull. I do this when sewing soft things, like chaps, or hemming pants. Backing off the tensions results in a lighter lay of the thread on both sides. This is good for items that flex a lot. It's not good for holsters, sheaths or hard cases.

I have a small bottle of RTC resist and it works really well at blocking things like letters when I am antiquing or Hi-liting a project. With the RTC resist, the antique doesn't penetrate the coated areas. It also appears to resist a light application of alcohol dye, but only if I apply two or three coats of RTC and let them dry. If you have more questions, consider becoming a member of Leatherworker.net. This section (help Wanted) requires a moderator's approval of posts and replies. You also don't have access to our private messages or email system as a guest.

I use a program called FastStone Photo Resizer, which is available for Windows PCs. If you use a Samsung Smartphone it has a built in photo resizer function in the Gallery. It is one of the edit options. . Here is a website that lists various photo size reduction "apps:" https://www.androidauthority.com/best-photo-resizer-apps-android-1076507/ This website offers tips for photo resizing on an iPhone.

It friggin' sounds brand new! Congrats!