Wizcrafts

Why do you need a 220 volt servo motor? The standard in the USA is 110vac. The servo motors I buy cost $160 delivered and they are analog, with a speed limited knob. All of them are 110 vac.

If your machine has a spare hole on top you might could buy a post with a few holes and pound it in a bit. Ideally, there should be about an inch between the top and bottom and even better, they would be 90 degrees apart. I have that kind of top post on a few of my machines and they are perfect for counteracting twisty thread, or adding extra tension on top without cranking down the beehive spring, which tends to limit the separation when the feet are lifted.

@Dave9111 - You can counteract a particular twist in a spool of thread by wrapping in the opposite direction around a thread post or guide that has 2 or more holes. I do this with twisty thread by feeding it counterclockwise through two holes in a post. You might try that, or go clockwise to see if one or the other improves the thread holding its shape.

As an experiment, try using only the left needle and feed the right thread to its guide hole. If it still unravels, the hook and needle position/timing is the problem. If not, something in the thread path is the problem. Or, there could be an unseen burr on the thread guide hole in the needle bar. Have you removed the sliding cover on the left and watched the hook action at pickoff time? That could reveal the cause.. The hook may be damaged, or not properly distanced, or timed. Did you read the early replies in the original topic?

I like Organ titanium coated needles for their resistance to the leather tape I baste seams with. I like Schmetz for their S point inline oval leather point needles. I also use Groz Beckert needles. I avoid no name brands.

Do let us know when you figure it out and what the problem turned out to be.

Perhaps the needle is bent? replace it. Remove the hook race and clean out any left over debris, then oil and replace it, leaving the screws about 1/2 turn loose.

The paddle spring could be bent out of its track, jamming the revolving head motion. A bent presser shaft could bind the foot action. The foot lifter mechanism could be binding near the top-rear of the head. See if removing the revolving head assembly clears up the binding. Inspect the revolving and pushing parts that go through the head. If the binding persists with the head removed, the problem is either with the rack on top or the gear driving it on the back shaft.

I tried to open the .heic file in Windows Photos, but it requires a paid extension to open that file type. I'm not that interested in heic files to pay for an extension so I still can't view the uploaded file.

The Juki TSC-441 didn't makes its arrival until the late 1980s. I remember being introduced to one around 1988, just before I got my first Union Lockstitch machine. It was in a carton that the Juki distributor opened for me. They only wanted $5995.00! I got the ULS for $1500.

I'm glad to have been able to help you.

Since your shuttle is removable it can be moved in and out to clear a bigger needle and thread. The timing can also be retarded and advanced. You would have to buy a throat plate with a bigger needle hole to take advantage. There are combination s with a needle plate and feed dog all over Fleabay. Or, contact you favorite industrial sewing machines dealer and ask for a package and other accessories. You can probably get a heavy duty beehive spring and a new bobbin case at the same time. That's what I do rather than nickle and dimeing on Fleabay.

You will have to play with a combination of adjusting the pressure springs for the inside and outside feet to find the magic spot that doesn't pucker the material or the thread.

I have a 1921 Singer 31-15. Here are my findings and suggestions for you. This is a tailors' machine meant for cotton thread and broadcloth. The shuttle is not adjustable. It is pinned to the driving shaft. If yours is also pinned, the hook timing is what it is. Because the hook timing is fixed, the only adjustment is the height of the needle bar. It should be timed so that the hook picks off the thread after the needle ascends about 3/32" from BDC and at about 1/16" above the eye. The needle system is 16x257, aka: DBx1, or 1738, or 16x231. The needle hole in the throat plate may limit the maximum needle size. Mine clears a #19 needle. The maximum thread size I can use is #69, top and bottom. The tension spring is very light duty; just enough to tension #69 bonded thread. It can sew no more than about 1/4 inch with the presser foot at its maximum sewing height. It sews pigskin wallet interiors okay, but not the backs. It is great for hemming trousers with standard 50 weight cotton or polycore thread and a #12 to 14 round point needle! If you go the Teflon foot route, buy a dozen at a time. I kept forgetting to not drop the plastic foot down on the feed dog after pulling out the work and the teeth gouge up the foot, ruining it. If you must sew leather with this machine, invest in a 3 piece roller foot conversion kit. You may be limited to a 3/4 inch roller because the low hanging head section will not allow you to raise the presser bar high enough to use a 1 inch roller foot. Even a 3/4 inch roller foot may not fully lock in the up position. This means while you can pull it open on the left, it won't stay open. This isn't a big deal though. I never worried about clamping it up to remove the work, or clear a big seam it couldn't negotiate. Roller foot conversions include the flip up foot, an inline feed dog and a matching slotted throat plate. The feed dogs are available in different tooth pitches, from light to heavy duty.

The reason walking foot machines aren't normally used with soft materials is because the inside foot pushes directly over a hole or slot in the feed dog. This also causes the foot tracks around the needle holes. The inside foot is hooked up so when it presses down the outside foot raises. I have had a bit of success by removing the spring or backing off the adjuster over the inside foot on soft materials. However, this is a make-do solution. There are better feed systems: Roller Foot and Needle Feed. A roller foot machine is for leather, like garment leather and has a roller on the left of the needle. The needle hole is in the throat plate and doesn't move. A needle feed machine can work with leather or cloth. Needle feed machines have a flat fixed presser foot that's always down (until you lift it), while the feed dog and needle move the work. There is no inside foot to squish the material or pucker it. If loosening or removing the spring over the inside foot doesn't help, then you may need to consider one of the above types of machine. Note, that a tailoring machine can often be retrofitted with a roller presser foot. It requires raising the presser bar as high as it will go. There are 3 piece kits that replace the foot, feed dog and throat plate. A roller foot machine has a single row feed dog. They are available in different courseness of teeth, from light to heavy duty grip.

Then you've reached the point of no further gain. Have you played with the presser foot pressures? Is there a coil spring on the inside alternating foot bar inside the head? If so, remove it or adjust it out of action. This will make the machine behave more like a needle feed machine and the inside foot won't push down as hard. If you are able to remove or nullify the inside foot pressure spring, the outside foot pressure screw will control both feet.

The chart that shows a #20 or 21 needle for use with #138 thread would only work if the bobbin thread is a size smaller. Thus, you could have #138 on top with #92 in the bobbin. The bobbin tension would need to be increased to keep the knots from showing on top.

The 111 series were made to sew upholstery. You are probably running your thread tensions too high. Back off the top and bottom until you get decent stitches without puckering or looseness. The check spring can fine tune the lay once the other issues are worked out.

First, try flipping the bobbin around, reversing the bobbin thread's direction. I usually feed my bobbin thread against the direction of the slit under the spring. This ensures that the thread goes and stays under the tension spring. But, if the thread is difficult, feeding it inline might help.

The lowered position of the presser foot lift block (which gets lifted by both the hand and foot lifter) has an effect on the total lift. I set mine as low as possible to get the maximum available lift. Then, there is that block that goes up and down inside the split bar portion of the presser bar. It may be hitting the top of the head too soon. Loosen its set screw and let it move down just enough to let the feet have a full range of alternating motion.

I does look like an early version of the CB3200. The digital motor goes back to before the Family Sew motors were being shipped with the machines. You might want to check the price of a brand new one first. ;-)

There are light, standard and heavy duty tension springs available in the aftermarket and in OEM builds. It somebody installed a heavy duty coil beehive spring, it will behave like you described. Why don't you buy a standard tension spring and see if that improves the range of adjustment?

I have a Cowboy CB4500 and a Techsew 2700. Both have table attachments that have 4 long threaded rods with nuts and washers for the top and finger nuts for the underside. The rods go through matching holes in the tables the machines are mounted on. It takes a couple minutes at the most. The nuts on top are used to position the table to the machine. The bottom plastic handle nuts tighten it to the pedestal table.

There is a time limit of just an hour or two for editing a post. However, moderators can edit any time. There are programs that manipulate photos and can save them at greatly reduced file sizes, with minimal loss of detail. I sometimes use FastStone Photo Resizer for quick reduction. I have other expensive programs that can do magic when needed, but Photo Resizer does it good enough for our purposes..

Yes and yes. It is an excellent machine for sewing leather up to 3/8 inch, with thread sizes up to #138 top and bottom, or #207 top and 138 in the bobbin. It is just a step down from the top of the line LU-1508N and NH.