Wizcrafts

You can learn to sew like this too! There are videos. I watched one earlier on the Makers Leather Supply website. He sells plastic templates for Gunfighter stitching, wallets, journals, etc. Your Model 26 can handle #207 bonded thread, which is what I used on these belts. You really got a nice machine. I wish you much success with it. If you haven't already done so, buy all available accessories and outside left and right toe feet.

If you buy them from one of our advertisers who sell sew leather machines, you will get the right bobbins with thread holes that are also used to secure the bobbins for winding them on the built in winder on the machine.

Lol, exactly. I have operated a Rex dual feed walking foot machine, with really aggressive teeth. Man, that thing wouldn't budge from its stitch length setting. It almost clawed the work out of my hands. In contrast, my slew of walking foot machines, including my CB4500, all let me feather the needle hole position if I want to. This can really come in handy when you are sewing Gunfighter fishtail stitches onto a gunbelt.

I have an equivalent machine, a Techsew 2700. Both are clones of the Singer 153 series walking foot cylinder arm machines. When I needed a replacement needle bar, I called Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Bob Kovar advised me that these machines all use the same needle bar as the Singer 153. I ordered one from him and it fit perfectly. I had no issue with an off center needle hole. Yours must be the luck of the draw.

Kenneth; A smooth feed dog doesn't mark the bottom layer like the ones with teeth do. Normally this is not an issue. However, if both sides of a project must look as good as possible, the smooth feed dog is a bonus that saves time rubbing out tooth marks. I have a smooth feed dog on my Cowboy stitcher. If you're wondering about a loss of grip, you are right. Because the feed dog is smooth, as are the feet, I can cheat the stitch length at will to reach marked points or corners. Teeth would make it harder to do this.

I've never heard of that dealer before. Can you post links to the machines they are selling that you are interested in? That asked, any upholstery class sewing machine can also be a leather sewing machine. A lot of upholstery is done with 4 ounce leather. That comes to 8 ounce seams and more when doubled down and felled. One main difference is that leather is supposed to be sewn with a leather point needle. Another is that with the exception of upholstery and garment/chrome tan leathers, one should use a machine with smooth feet. Vinyl and cloth sewing machines with dual feed have teeth on the feet to pull the material through. They will permanently mark veg tan leather. This brings us to a third difference. Upholstery walking foot machines not meant for veg-tan leather can be dual, top and bottom feed, with teeth on the feet. Walking foot machines meant for veg-tan are usually triple, or compound feed, with smooth bottom feet and needle feed. The work can slip a little in compound feed, which can be used to one's advantage to force stitches to reach a certain point, other stitch hole, or corner. Dual feed machines are harder to cheat stitch length on. So, as the dealer what kind of walking foot machine is A and what is B. If you plan to sew veg-tan leather, get a compound feed walking foot machine.

This thread is for hand sewing, not machine sewing. Machines require a twisted thread, with left, or Z twist being the most common for single needle machines. Their hooks travel clockwise relative to the scarf side of the needle. If you try sewing on these machines with right twist, or no twist thread, it will unravel. Furthermore, waxed thread should not be used in a standard closed eye needle machine. It will gum up the eye! Waxed thread should either be hand sewn or machine sewn on a barbed needle and awl machine (e.g., Campbell/Randall Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch, Landis 3).

I don't know of any Tex 500 thread. The closest is v415, also known as Tex 400, or Government 6 cord linen. This size thread requires a Singer #27, or Metric #250 needle (2.5mm). My Cowboy CB4500 is rated for this size needle and thread. Other machines able to handle #415 thread are the Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-370, Adler 969 ECO, Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, Landis 1 and 3, Number 9 Machine, Luberto Classic and some Artisan and Ferdinand Bull machines. Shoe sole stitches can also handle #415 thread. Think Landis 12 and Champion dual flywheel, curved needle and awl machines. Some of these machines are obsolete, but still show up for sale now and then. There are also some other machines I didn't mention.

Another concern with patchers is the stitch length. A pristine machine is able to sew 5 stitches per inch at about 1/8 inch, maximum thickness. As the thickness increases, the stitch length decreases. At its maximum thickness, about 1/4 inch, you'll be lucky to get 7 or 8 stitches per inch. The feed is totally performed by the teeth on the bottom of the foot. The harder the leather, the more pressure you must apply to hold down the leather as the needle rises on the take-up stroke. Increased foot pressure causes more drag against the steel throat plate, further reducing the stitch length. You might have to push or pull the leather to get 5 or 6 stitches per inch on tough jobs.

Here is a picture of the tiny bobbin used by a Singer 29k71 patcher. I've compared it to a couple of US dimes. The inside clearance is about the thickness of 4 dimes, or 3/16 inch.

The machine you are referring to is probably the venerable Singer 29 series shoe and boot patcher. The photo below is my Singer 29k71. This is a patch machine in my World. It sews embroidered patches over pockets on Biker's vests and jackets. It also resews shoes when the thread lets go around the toe box and vamp. It has resewn pull tabs on boots. It has sewn purse straps back in between the lining and outside layer on the narrow sides where no other sewing machine can go. One of the most unusual jobs I put it to work on was sewing around the top and bottom of hand made leather dice cups. I use it to sew long seams up the arm which it does well due to the 360 degree rotating presser foot. One thing I never do with my patchers is sew belts, holsters, sheathes, or any other long or thick items. I have other machines that are built for those things. This machine is not for production. It is for repairs. The bobbins this model uses are just under the diameter of a US dime (~5/8") and hold 3/16" of thread. If you load it with #69 bonded thread, it will sew quite a few small projects. But, if you load it with #138 thread, it will only sew about one long dress belt.

Here is a copy of the manual for the Singer 211G155 and 156. Singer_211G155,_G156.pdf

Make sure that the two spring loaded screws that hold the shuttle assembly onto the end of the arm have about 1 full turn of slack. If they are tightened all the way down the shuttle can squeeze the needle and thread. You need enough clearance for the thread and needle to go around the shuttle without binding. Those little coil spring on the screws allow it to float a bit. Remove your leather and top thread, then slowly run the machine while watching the needle and shuttle interact. Does the shuttle hook hit the needle, or squeeze it against the shuttle ring? If so, back off the screws another half turn. Check for a bent needle! Next, verify that you are using the proper needle size for the thread combination you're using. Consult this needle and thread chart.

You have just described the Consew 206RB-5. Juki has several walking foot machines meeting your wish list, including the DNU-1541 and LU-1508NH.

No sir, they cannot be converted into a walking foot. But, you can convert it into a roller foot machine. I saw one at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines that had a roller foot and the flat foot was in the drawer.

I had one until last spring. It can take a #23 needle if you want to use #138 thread. But, I found it to be more at home with #69 thread and a #18 needle. The most I used in it was #92 bonded thread, with a #19 or #20 needle.The maximum thickness is 5/16 inch on that model. But, it should be soft to medium temper material, like denim or chap/garment leather. Be careful turning the stitch length knob on the balance wheel. The top rear shaft has threads machined into it and they get brittle and break after 75 years of service. When the threads are gone you will have trouble changing the stitch length. The maximum stitch length is about 4.5 to 5 to the inch on that model. But, it can be tweaked for a bit longer.

If you have a clutch motor from before, swap motors until the servo dealer reopens and learn to feather the clutch. Back out the big bolt to get the free movement you want and tighten the return coli spring to pull the lever up. You can buy a 45 or 50mm pulley for it if you really want to go sloooooow.

Juki makes some of the most reliable industrial sewing machines in the World. They still produce the TSC-441 from which the Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew (our supporting advertisers) harness and holster stitchers are cloned. Sewing factories and garment producers have buildings full of working Juki machines. They are not the only top name, but are among those. Proof of this is that most of the Juki line is cloned by lower price manufacturers. As for buying a used Juki, make sure you know up front what condition it is in and what, if anything was wrong when it was traded in. Any sewing machine can be worked hard and need some new parts or at least a good going over and adjustments. Sometimes a dealer leaves those tuneups until the machine is about to be sold. It would be wise to see the machine sewing. Bring in your material and ask them to sew it with the type of thread you plan to use. Be aware that new Juki machines can sometimes cost twice as much as their clones. Some of this has to do with the duty charged on Japanese imports. If a particular model is built in China, a different duty rate may apply. These charges can ramp up the prices unexpectedly.

Wawak (Canadian division) caters to what is known to the industrialized world as "the needle trade." Like other industrial countries, Canada has all manner of professional sewing shops, alterationists, garment and accessory factories, tailors, shoe and boot makers, shoe repair shops, seamstresses, hobby sewers, domestic sewing machine dealers and industrial sewing machine dealers. Canada has a rich history producing sewn goods from all manner of materials. There was and still is a thriving needle trade in many major Canadian cities. You also have a top quality sewing thread producer named Cansew. For decades there has been a leather supplier in Toronto, whose name is Moore Pearsall Tannery Warehouse. They are a major supplier of high quality bridle and harness leather, as well as veg-tan, retan and chrome-tan leathers. Toronto has some industrial sewing machine dealers who have been in the needle trade for many decades. Unbeknownst to many here, Toronto (and other Canadian cities) are prime haunts for movie producers. A lot of costume makers and gun smiths are busy making movie props in Canada. Somebody I see every day made holsters for the movie Romeo and Juliet, which was cast in TO. My friend, working under the art department, measured Leonardo DiCaprio and the other primary actors for their custom holsters, then built them in his basement and sewed them together on his Union Lockstitch machine. A few years later he moved back to the USA. Added: You can buy double-sided leather tape from Wawak in 60 yard spools, in widths from 1/4" through 1". I use it to install zippers, to secure hems and seams, to hold patches on hats, vests and jackets for sewing, and, to hold various pieces of leather together securely for sewing. The one inch wide tape is great for securing double leather belts, especially if you want to pre-bend them inwards for sewing on a natural curve.

Basically, Frobana machines are non-existent Stateside, or elsewhere, unless one becomes available used, as is. I have seen exactly one in my life, but it wore a Gritzner name tag. There used to be a seller/rebuilder in Canada, a decade or two ago. And Henry Veenhoven, in Toronto, used to sell hand operated Junker and Ruh sole stitchers, but they aren't anything like a Frobana/Gritzner. There is no comparison between a hand cranked Frobana and a motorized Landis 12(letter). If you make or repair shoes and boots, get a 12F or 12G and be done with it.

So, feather the damn clutch!

We usually slow down the motor, not the machine. I have some motors equipped with 2 inch pulleys and under. Clutch motors usually have a 3/4 inch shaft and small pulleys can be found online. Just make sure you buy from a sewing machine dealer who has 3/8 inch width pulleys for type 3L belts. If a small motor pulley doesn't slow it down enough, there are speed reducers available in 2:1 and 3:1 ratios. For every inch of motor pulley reduction, you will need an equally smaller 3L v-belt.

If you have a scanner, or a printer that also has a scan function, place your photo(s) on the scanner glass and select an option to scan to your computer. You may have to run the setup program again to get scan to computer to work. Save the scanned file with a .jpg or a .png file extension. You can then upload that/those files to our forum as long as you keep the file size down to our allowed maximum of 1.4 megabytes per upload. Now, in the event you don't have a computer and must do all this on a mobile device, take pictures of your photos, avoiding reflections as best as possible. Then search your Gallery for the photo you want to upload and use the Upload button to send it hither. If the image file is too large, try to email it to yourself using gmail. Setup an account if necessary. Open a new email in Gmail; address it to the same email address; drag or select the photo file to attach, then type a Subject and press the Send button. Wait a few seconds, then check for new messages. The one you sent to yourself should arrive in your Gamil inbox. Save the attached file, then try uploading it here. You can also try sending the attached file from Gmail to a different email provider that you already were using. Save the attachment and repeat the upload attempt.

This is turning into a most interesting topic! Festivus approaches. Let the airing of grievances begin!

I buy mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. But, you can get them from most industrial sewing machine dealers, like Leather Machine Company, Campbell-Randall, Hoffman Brothers, Nick-O-Sew, etc. These bobbins are used in all of the 441 clones.