Wizcrafts

Then your 31-15 is obviously a newer model that doesn't have the shuttle pinned to its shaft. My only timing option is bending the shuttle driver arms. Fortunately, I only bought the machine for tailoring cloth or sewing very thin wallet interiors.

In the early 1970s I lived with a German family for a year. This was the lady's favorite saying.

I've read a bunch of reviews from people who bought these Chinese street cobbler patchers. Some were happy out of the box. Others were happy after fixing or modifying their machines from defects out of the box. Still others complained of missing parts, or not being able to get the machine to sew. I suspect the missing parts buyers got machines that were returned from unhappy customers and were just repackaged and shipped out as is. Some of the sellers offer to take back unwanted machines, within a short timeframe. Others have no return policy at all. It appears none I saw offered any assistance after the sale. Finally, the machines that actually included instructions had them in poorly translated "Chinglish." Some buyers reported they didn't get any instructions. All of the machines I looked at, despite color differences, were built exactly the same. The prices vary 2:1 for the same machine from different resellers. It appears that after buying a Chinese patcher that doesn't work right, buyers are coming here for assistance. This is their only source of possible assistance since the sellers and builders don't offer support. After dealing with real leather sewing machine problems for so many years, we now are helping poor souls fix a new spate of crap machines from the Orient. At least the Chinese brands supporting this forum build high quality machines and have representatives in the USA, Canada and down under. And, unlike the street cobbler machine makers, they have English speaking Chinese representatives who can actually be contacted from here. To the (potential) Amazon/eBay Chinese cobbler patch machine buyers coming here for help or opinions; set your sights higher. Contact our advertising dealers to see what new or used working condition patch machines they have for sale. I have spoken to all of our advertisers and they are helpful people doing business properly. I have bought new and used machines from several dealers on here and have never ever been left in the lurch.

I wonder if Cowboy cb4500 feet will fit it and reach far enough forward? I can send you my spare foot if you want to try it.

Increasing the diameter of the bobbin case will require a matching longer take-up lever and all that it entails. The hook saddle or its housing may need to be milled out for more clearance. Similar discussions are currently under way about other machines. I have a modified Singer walking foot machine that now uses double capacity Juki U bobbins and a lot of parts and work went into the conversion (done by the dealer).

I think that is what you did when you converted my long arm Singer 139w109 into an LU big bobbin machine.

Neither, if you are really serious about sewing leather. Otherwise, if this is just a personal hobby, with no immediate plans for professional use, aluminum expands faster with small temperature changes than iron or steel. Iron will be more stable, although much heavier. Any alterations/improvements you make to get it to sew will probably hold longer in a more solid frame.

Can't you lower the presser bar and live with the shorter outside foot?

Thanks Gregg. I was wondering what a "racing puller" could be until I watched the short video. They confused "racing" with "raising!" The puller raises up to allow back-tacking. Then, it's off to the "races!"

Ach du liebe zeit!

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This is correct. ISO is short for In Search Of. It means the same as WTB (Want To Buy)

Bob Kovar just sent me a photo of a 25mm wide mouth folder attachment for a CB3200. He has it in stock! Contact him at 866-362-7397.

I have an old Singer 168 post machine with compound feed walking feet. It has a top loading hook. I had it adjusted for extra clearance between the hook and needle when I bought it and it will sew with #207 on top and in the bobbin, using a #24 needle! It also sews with #92 thread which is what I usually have in it. Admittedly, I have not tried using #69 thread and a small #18 needle. I have other machines for that, so why risk skipped stitches? While a top loading "G" bobbin machine may be able to sew with #207 thread, that bobbin won't hold as much of that size thread as a newer machine with a larger M or U hook (or a harness stitcher). I only use the post machine with thick thread in situations where no other machine can sew the work at hand. If anyone is curious about the modifications made to my post machine, ask Bob Kovar.

We have a Cowboy dealer in Toledo, Ohio. Have you asked him?

Good question! I think someone mislabeled the package. I do see slightly different types of "round" point needles in different systems. They are all basically round or sharp from round points. I've never seen a tri or diamond point in 135x17; just 135x16. Who woulda thunk it?

Your best bet might be to try to sell the feedless machine as a darning machine to somebody who can use it to darn things. It might also be of use to an embroidery shop for freehand embroidery with thick thread.

Excellent video explanation showing what was causing the top thread to get drawn down under the work. We learn to hold back the threads at the beginning, or else! This video actually shows the slack top thread above the last thread guide and it is that slack thread that gets pulled under.

If you are referring to a Chinese street cobbler's shoe patching machine, there was a lengthy discussion in January, 2020, about these pieces of stuff.

@Bow I got my Cowboy CB4500 in early 2011. I couldn't be happier. I got all available accessories both at the time of purchase and afterwards. I use it for thick and tough work that my lighter duty machines can't handle as nicely, or at all. The thickest job I sewed on it was a 7/8 inch thick holster using #346 thread. The thinnest is about 9-10 ounces, with #138 thread. I can also hem denim jeans and overalls on it by dumbing it down (see below). I have a best friend who bought a Cobra Class 4 about a half year earlier. He uses it on every sewing job he has. Mind you, he usually uses #138 or #207 thread and makes sure the leather and suede are thick enough to bury the lockstitch knots (10-12 oz). These machines are based on the frame and inner workings of the venerable Juki TSC-441 (still in production since about 1989). Thus, they have come to be known as "441 clones." While 441 clones (and the actual TSC-441) work best with thick thread, big needles and thick stacks of material, I have learned that they can be "dumbed down" for lighter/thinner work and thinner thread. To wit, I even wrote a blog article about this called: "Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher." While this process takes a bit of time, it can be useful for people who only own one of these machines and need to sew lighter work in the here and now. I have found that once business picks up for a sewer, other machines become more affordable if you know where to look for them.

You can buy the same threading wire as is used in Singer patchers. They have a finger loop on top of a thin rod that has a split cut into the bottom. The split holds the thread as you push it through, past he paddle spring, to the needle.

I just texted with Bob and he told me that the same package deal applies to the cb3500 and 4500. So, add $400 to the machine price for the accessories. The list of included parts is in a pop-up on the cb4500 page.

That is wrong. The CB3500 and CB5500 use the same accessories and accessory pack as the CB4500. There is a link to it in the right sidebar, just above the bottom price. It opens a pop-up window that tells you that the accessories fit all three high lift machines. I know the owner Bob Kovar personally, having bought several machines from him and his Son, Bob. I suspect that he can put together a package deal for you if you buy the CB3500. In the event I am wrong, I repent in dust and ashes of love, cold as ice.

I generally sew between 5 to 6 stitches per inch with thread sizes 69 through 138. But, some jobs may tolerate closer stitches while others are better off with longer stitches, like 4 to the inch. A lot of this depends on the size of the thread and needle. The thinner the leather the shorter the stitches should be to prevent loose threads or thread causing flexing of the work. You mentioned 1.5 to 2mm thickness. I strongly recommend against using #138 thread in such thin leather. You may not be able to hide the knots! The most I would use would be #92, if that. Thread sizes vs needle sizes. #69 thread, top and bottom: #18 (110) needle #92 thread, t&b: #19 or #20 (120 or 125) needle #138 thread, t&b: #22, 22.5, or #23 (140, 150 or 160) needle Those sewing much shorter stitches are using thinner thread and needles to match. A custom boot maker sewing purely decorative stitches might do so using #33 bonded thread and a short #9 or #10 needle on a roller foot machine. The next bonded thread size up is #46. This thread can be sewn using a #14 needle. Such a thin thread and needle will allow closer stitches, like 8 to 12 per inch. But, each stitch will be 50% weaker in breaking strength than #69 thread. The biggest concern with short stitches is the risk of filigreeing the leather.

Uwe beat me to the punch. I second the recommendation for the 1508NH. Note that they also offer a sub-class N, which is not the same capacity as the NH. Expect to pay a lot for this model. Adler also has a couple of really high end walking foot machines in the ECO series that are for sale at Weaver Leather. I tried them out a couple years ago and wish I had more money! Check out the Adler 869 ECO from Weaver Leather. Weaver is one of our supporting advertisers.