Wizcrafts

This Pfaff 1245/1246 manual includes mechanics' adjustments after general setup.

The pod motors show up now and then on ebay. If you are lucky enough to find one, and it works, invest in the special motor brush lube injectors sold on ebay. NEVER put oil into the tiny lube holes or the motor will be ruined! Having owned and sold a few 15-91 machines I can say that they are not good leather sewing machines. They are best used to sew cloth.

Actually, the specs call for a maximum foot lift of 1.25 inches. Your machine is out of adjustment if you can't lift the feet over an inch. Make sure that the foot lifter pedal chain has a minimum amount of slack and can travel from fully up to fully down.

I also have a walking foot post machine and it helps feed difficult leathers and ball caps. I primarily use it to sew patches onto hats and biker vests. It feeds much better than my top feed only patcher and has a bigger bobbin. If you "need" a post machine a walking foot is a positive a feed as you can get.

This machine is a post bed compound feed walking foot machine. It doesn't lend itself to becoming a roller foot machine. If you believe you will be better served by a roller foot machine, try negotiating a trade.

If it is a GA5-1 type it is a clone of a Singer 45k cylinder arm machine. These are strictly bottom feed, with aggressive teeth, with either a fixed flat foot or a roller foot. They max out at 7/16 inch. They are NOT 441 clones. Those are triple/compound feed walking foot machines.

A number 25 needle pokes a hole suitable for #277 bonded thread on both sides. A #24 needle is best used with #207 thread and a #23 for #138 thread (top and bobbin). If you use an oversize needle the hole will have too much clearance and the thread knots can be hard to position. Knot position should be adjusted by means of the tension sprinbgs for the top and bobbin threads. Knots along the bottom indicate way too much bobbin tension or little to no top tension. This begs the question: is the top thread actually laying well within the top disks and then around the check spring with a click as you pulled it around the disks?

System 135×5 is generally used in single needle lockstitch industrial sewing machines. It is also known as 134R, 135×7, 135×25, 1901, DPx5, and DPx7. This system is shorter than walking foot System 135x16 and 135x17. A machine using System 135x5 needles will have a shorter throw and won't accommodate the thickness that System 135x16 are capable of. If the 111w153 sews with System 134/135x5 needles and you are okay with its reduced thickness, stay with that system. Otherwise, you would have to raise the needle bar for the longer walking foot needles and make sure the hook arrives above the eye on the upstroke.

I have hidden the reply with the link to the domestic sewing machines because it was a spam post by an affiliate marketer and was also not relevant to industrial leather sewing machines.

Keep in mind that without a brake the motor could continue to run on if it was spinning fast.

This is pretty much how it is. You may be able to get some free movement by removing the brake pad from the motor, if it is a servo. Clutch motors have a free play adjuster bolt on the right side, in front of the output shaft.

You are going to have to replace the feed motion cam that moves the foot. It is inside the ring on the bottom of the revolving head. This is an involved process with several parts requiring removal, including the bolt on head holding the revolving bushing and needlebar.

I would like to know how much the built-in motor, push button micro-switches, servos and motherboard cost to replace when they fail? How long is the warranty on those parts?

Yes, you must move the bobbin winder so it fits under the hand wheel, which drives it. There is a drive release lever on the hand wheel that lets you load the bobbin without driving the shuttle or top end. You can use the front mounted tension disks to tension the bobbin thread while winding them. Otherwise, those disks can be used for darning.

Perhaps your bobbin is out of round and is binding intermittently. Or, maybe the top thread is twisting out of the tension disks then back in. Check the thread path and quality along the path. Also, make sure you are using the proper needle and thread combination [Reference]

Here are 3 manuals covering various sub-classes of the Adler CLass 30. I think that the 30-15 is a short arm, large bobbin model that probably uses System 332 needles. Those are similar to the Singer 29x3 and 29x4 patcher needles. Nowadays, most of us use System 135x16 and 135x17 needles that have a cutout scarf above the eye, I have a 30-7 that uses a longer System 332LLG needle. I don't think your machine uses those needles. adler_30_-10-50-70.pdf Adler_30_Instruction_Manual.pdf adler30servicemanualpdf.pdf

I already have a straight stitch machine for light work. But, if I didn't, I'd look at a Consew or Juki straight stitch machine (like the DLN-5410NJ-7). Since I don't sew very fast, I would look at a manually oiled machine rather than a self oiled model. You might also consider a top and bottom feed walking foot machine, maybe even a portable walikng foot machine.

I sometimes use a 1920s Singer 31-15 straight stitch machine for flat, thin sewing work, like wallet interiors, pants hems, linings, and other thin leather jobs under 4 ounces. It is a drop feed only machine that takes all manner of presser feet, including an actual roller foot. I limited mine to #69 bonded and under. Heavier thread usually requires heavier tension and pressure springs and I keep this machine for very light work. Being a tailoring machine with drop feed, there are three different combinations of throat plate and feed dog, ranging from very close narrow teeth to wide spaced out aggressive teeth. The roller foot conversion kit includes an aggressive single row feed dog that fits under the roller wheel, plus a matching throat plate. In effect, this converts a 31-15 into a 31-20 machine which is favored by boot makers doing decorative stitching on boot uppers with thin thread and thin needles. The 31 class uses a Class 15 bobbin that goes inside a bobbin case that pops into the shuttle under a sliding plate on the left side of the needle.

See this page on Ismacs for some details about the Singer class 6 machines.

Apparently, your thread is overly twisty. When I have twisty thread it usually twist clockwise. So, I counter it by threading through to holes in the top post in a counterclockwise direction. If your machine doesn't have a post with two or more holes, wrap the top thread CCW around something along the path. This should counteract the twist and give you enough loop for the hook to pick off. If this is the case, replace the thread ASAP.

Try this manual.

This is but a free hint. Loosen the top and bottom tensions somewhat, then balance the knots to land in the middle. Try your test stitching again and see if the lower tension helps to get equal forward and backward stitch lengths. If so, you've saved a major headache with under body adjustments. Mind you, those still might be necessary if the thread lies too loosely.

Might I offer a suggestion? If your motor is a toaster, instead of buying another one like it, why not cop a boo at the motor I use; the Family Sew FS-550S? It has a simple rotary switch to limit the top speed.

A pedestal stand can be lowered to about the same height as a sit down table. The pedestal has two square pieces that slide and have holes for big bolts to lock the position down. I have sent a question about the ability of the stand to drop down to sitting height to Leather Machine Company. I also asked if they will custom drill and position a pedestal to a customer's desired height. Lowering the table also requires the foot lift chain and motor control rods to be shortened.

Possibly, but it will be very expensive. This has been discussed before on Leatherworker.net. Use our search engine, or search Google like this example: convert pfaff 335 to 4 way feed motion site:leatherworker.net