dirtclod

I've used a grinder with buffing wheels with red, green white and black buffing compund for my knives for years and it's never hurt one yet. I bet you 99% of knifes made has been on a buffing wheel sometime during the time it was made

The reason they scratch is because their not worth the plastic their made from. Their soft as a marshmellow. I wore glasses for 50 plus years and hardly ever had a problem with glass lens and i cleaned concrete off them for days at a time. Just looking at the plastic ones they will scratch. I know because i had 3 or 4 pair of them and they would be so scratched up you couldn't see out them in a years time. Nobody i know carries a microfiber cloth in their pocket 24 hours a day.

If your glasses have the plastic lens i would line it because the plastic scratches really easy.

Puy the tip of finger along side the blade to support it when your punching your holes.

Wet it where the bend will be, that should help. Spray bottle should be enough. You need to put some kind of conditioner like lexol, black rock, percairds or similar because the dye does dry out the leather.

You can cut a slot in a lot less time that it will take to mount that. Even if you had to pay somebody to cut the slot, in my mind you will be money ahead.

My suggestion would be to make it out of poster board before you do anything else to see how things look and work. You may want to change things afterwards.

Neat ideal and nice work. I'm going to try my hand at the spade bit skiver. I have been using a box plane blade to skive with and it works pretty good, but it's a little bit wide to hold and use very much.

You can get by with one spool of thread. Get more bobbins their pretty cheap and fill several of the same color at a time. I would leave the machine threaded and cut the thread back far enough you can tie your thread back on when your finished filling bobbins and pull through and your machine is threaded again.

Push the bobbin winder forward, when you sew it will fill the bobbin and when it gets full it will pop back.

Nice job !!

I've had the same problem with nylon thread except mine wadded up on the top post or would wad up on the upper guide on the thread stand and would mess things up. What i wound up doing was put a piece of panty hose on the spool enough to cover the whole thing. What you have run into is one reason i WON"T use nylon thread if i can get poloyester thread in the right color, plus i think nylon is hard on your machine.

Nice job !

What they have ( Deluth ) is almost the same thing i made 20 years ago.

Years ago when worked constuction i made myself a pair for my nail apron. To fisten them to the belt i made them to where they come around the belt and could be adjusted with a conway buckle, a regular buckle would work fine to and a 2 inch wide shoulder strap so the smaller strap didn't dig into your shoulder. The bad thing about fastening them to belt is where to put them. Doing like i did you could move them a little. One thing you want to make sure and do is put a adjustable strap across your chest so when you bend over they don't fall down your arm. The last pair i made for somebody else they wanted a padded shoulder piece that was U shaped about 2 1/2 ins. wide with a tail and D rings sewn at the ends for the straps to pass through. Look online for tool belts and you can see what i'm talking about.

I had a awl fall off the bench one time and it went right through my boot into my toe. It was sticking straight up just like if you had stuck in the bench. That will make you speak in unknow tounge's !!

You need to contact www.SheridanLeather.com for your awl blade. They are at the top of the page in the banner adds. You may need to refresh a couple of times to see the add or you can go to their website. Personally i would call rather than order online. Stitch wheel i would get a 5 or 6 either one of them will work for holsters. You can get them at Tandy, Zach White or Springfield Leather.

I don't think you find many people that will send their customers to you. When if their like me they need the business they get from their customers. But i could be a 100% wrong. In the real world you need to build your own customer base.

Your welcome ! Glad i was able to help.

If your not going to send it back. I would get some out into a resealable bowl like tupperware and add some water and see what happens. I have some that had got pretty chunky in the bottle and i added some water and it's fine.

Take the plate off the back on the left hand side looking at the machine from the back. Turn the hand wheel till you see a screw, tighten it up just a little, the screw is hard to turn. That's what Ferdco told me several years ago and it has worked fine sense then.

You don't have to get your leather soaking wet to form it around the chisel. If your worried about rust wipe a light coat of oil on the chisel before you form. When you have it formed take the chisel out and let the leather dry, overnight should be fine but you can wait as long as you want.

I use skirting leather, harness leather and bridle leather any of them will work fine. Just make sure you use at least 8/9 ounce 10/12 is better.

I've been doing leather work full time for 30 years and never have had anybody say they wouldn't buy something because it's leather.

Here are some lighting pictures. https://www.google.com/search?q=lighting+bolt+photos&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb