dirtclod

This time of year it's generally dry in a few minutes. I may wait 15 or 20 minutes in the winter because it's cold.

I'm pretty sure i have the same machine. I've had it a year or two and bought it second hand, i haven't had any problems but i don't use it alot. 99% of my sewing is done on a Ferdco 2000. Personaly i would of rather had a Juki but the one i have i bought for a good price.

I would try another coat and see what happens. I've been useing resolene for over 30 years, and all i have ever used to put it on with is a sponge. You do need to squeese the sponge out before you use and all i ever use is regular tap water. Some folks seem to want to over compclate things IMO. If you use a spray gun / air brush i would think your going to have to clean it after ever use or it will gum up.

Well i can't figure out how to post a picture any more sense things have changed. Tried phto bucket and it won't let me use it, tried to post picture off of a card and it won't let me. Anyway i sewed some soft chrome tan with the walking foot and the 31/15 with a roller foot and neither backside marked. I don't think i have any thin veg tan. What i think you should do is take some pieces of what ever you want to sew to the dealers and try the machine out and see hoe you like it.

Teddycrafts i have a 31/15 and a walking foot machine. I'll sew some stuff and post the pictures. I don't remember any marks from the feeddogs but i'll check.

I bet your 6/6 will work fine. Have you tried it ? I have sewn a bunch of chaps on my Ferdco Pro 2000 without any problems.

Reason #7 seems more in line with priceing something you make. Round somebody with a puse like that is just trying to impress other people when we know their broke just like the rest of us. Oh and i'm sure they have a BIG credit card bill that they will trying to pay off the rest of their lives.

On your paper pattern mark when the seam will be. Them mark say 3/4 inch back from the seam and puch holes in the top piece then mark 1/4 to 1/2 inch back from the bottom piece seam and punch holes. Fold your pattern like it was sewn and lace it. The front and back of the flap won't be glued so you should be able to lace it no problem.

I always put glue on everthing and stich everthing. As far as i know none have seperated in the last 30 years. If you glue everthing and put it togeather flat the liner will wrinkle some at the fold. If you glue everthing and put the pieces togeather bent over not folded all the way it shouldn't wrinkle at the fold. The trick is not to let either side touch till everthing is where you want it. You can put wax paper on both sides of the liner leave the fold part bare so it will stick and work your way out one side at a time. Oh make sure you cut the liner over size sense it's not lined up perfect you can trim after you get it glued in and stitched. I never noticed it being harder to mold after glueing but i don't do all the detail work molding like some folks do either. Just sew around the edge of the holster. You don't need extra sew lines for a flap holster. Leave the welt side to last to sew so you can get the welt in. Theirs really nothing to it just think about what your doing and you will be fine.

People like that i give them their stuff back and tell em i'll never able to make you happy so i'm not doing it. I'm guessing you will be wishing you had told her that before it's over.

Tell ya what MojoGerorge you give him all the money you want. I'm not scared of the competation but i'm not going to give somebody money just so they can try something that they may do good at or fall flat on their face. They can go to the bank and borrow the money to get what they need or save their money and go into business. It's not just this guy either but i have seen a few of these give me money so i can do what i want without it costing me anything post on here. Heck i may fail or i may not like it after all and i don' t want to invest my own money. So far all of these post were just to ask for the money then the are never heard from again. So like i said knock ya self out and give him ar any of the other people your money i'm sure they will appreicate it.

Mine has been messed up for 40 plus years. Yours maybe different as far as damage but it doesn't bother me much unless i try to throw something then it pops out of whack and i have to take my other hand and get it lined up again and i'm done for a few hours. Hurts bad is a understatment !! It's hurts so bad it makes me sick. I know some folks that have had the surgery and they couldn't do anything for a pretty good while. Good luck with yours.

I made a bag that fit behind the fairing and i used vegtan lagito would work fine to. Make some patterns out of poster board before you cut your leather to make sure your design will work.

I have the tool as you and i don't like it at all !! I like this style a lot better http://www.handtools-uk.com/product_info.php?products_id=1605 . Personally i want the bevel on top.

Found this after doing a search for your machine it may or may not help. Since I use multiple thread weights on this I find it very helpful to keep scraps from cutting and use them to test the tension. Threading is not difficult but you do have to make sure it is done correctly. When I go through the tension discs I will “floss” with the thread to make sure it is in securely. When you pass the thread through the bottom disc (the one with the small wire on the left), make sure you pull upward until you hear a click. I didn’t do this initially and I had all sorts of issues which had me removing the 80 pound head and running it down to my dealer in a panic.

I will only use polyester thread on my machine if i can get the color i want. If i have to i will use nylon but only if i can't get a color i need in polyester. Personaly i think Polyester thread it's a lot easier on your machine.

Lay a straight edge along the back mark a line and cut the crooked piece off and you have a straight side.

A needle and awl machine uses a awl to punch the hole that the needle will come up through. You might get lucky and find a American straight needle for what your wanting to pay, only thing is the throat is only about 4 inches deep but if your going to sew around the edge it would work fine for that. They will sew around 3/4 to 1 inch thick.

Take a look at a old needle and awl machine and see if it looks like what you want.

LDW your feather barrets are real nice !!

Are you sure thats the right screw it looks a lot bigger than the other one. If it is the right screw try swaping holes and check to make sure the threads haven't been messed up on the one that doesn't want to go in. To set the tension i would back them off and tighten them a little at a time sewing on some scrap. The tension isn't hard to set.

I've been sewing for a lot of years and i don't think i ever heard a machine make a thumping noise like that when sewing. Do you have any ideal whats causeing that ? One thing you might check is make sure that who ever is sewing isn't hitting the knee lift while their sewing. I have one machine that when i was sewing i would hit the knee lift and not even notice it and it messed the stitching up. I finally figured that out and moved the knee lift a little and i moved my stool over some to make sure i didn't hit the knee lift when sewing. Nice straps !

Your impressions will be a lot deeper and crisper with the heavier one to and with a lot less effort.

If your going to be using stamping like a basket weave i would get a 24 ounce a 16 ounce is to light for stamping. A 16 ounce is fine for tooling though.

Go through the eye and through the tension disk pull back to your bobbin and wind a few wraps on the bobbin push it till it goes against the belt step on the gas and wind your bobbin when your bobbin is full it will snap back. You can fill a bobbin while your sewing something else.