JLSleather

Call 'em at S-T in St Louis. Their catalog shows it, but it's outdated, so you might check. Go here on the left side go down to "leathercraft kits" and click page 46 - half way down right side column. I've never used 'em, and I pretty much hate that cheap "mission grain" puke in those kits, but I'm guessing thats what this is -- they just put a different number on Tandy's kit.

So, the cutting pattern is missing?

The "old" billfolds - the ones you see in the tooling 'manuals' - were 9 1/4" x 3 3/8", which folds to about 4.5" wide. Updating that, simple enough to make a paper pattern (I like about 50lb bristol) to whatever size you like. Assuming the wallet in that picture is about this size, then using Horween leather you're looking at a whopping $10 worth of materials there.

Yet more proof there's one born every minute. www.etsy.com/shop/crossandlily

what's a 'lady' wallet? got a picture?

Search bar. Block dyeing. Man, this must be gaining popularity (or perhaps just 'speedy' "etsy" style stuff).

If you use those things, you might check with the Tandy store where you are. The one up this way keeps "extra" single letters - you can purchase like an extra "I" or a 7. I don't like those stamps (though I do own some somewhere), but the Tandy girl is worth making a trip down that way occasionally...

That does look like a double-loop. Tough to tell with the colors involved and the small picture, but I'm "almost" sure. One more complicating issue, that's "backwards" from the way you'll usually see it done (including in instructions). Note how the lace slants, low on the left, high on the right. This is not "wrong", but most lacing directions will show it with the lace running high on the left and low on the right. If a smart person was going to GUESS, he might say that this lacing was done .. 1.) From the INSIDE of the wallet, pushing the needle through to the outside, or .. 2.) Done by a lefty. I've seen some lefty lace like this before. What's the difference? Probably none, but it'll look "backwards" in a lacing manual, which sucks for a guy trying to learn the technique! Here's what I mean, done from the OUTSIDE by a right handed person ... AND, if you care for it, here's some diretions that someone (maybe that smart guy?) put up some time ago, showing just how to do that ... http://kingsmerecrafts.com/page96.html

I like the look, but to machine stitch that (with the top stitch like that) might require a patcher, or a post-bed (?).

Alphabet stamps 'suck'. Cheap, and they look it. Search on here for posts by Electrathon about type and typesetting. His text looks as good as any I've seen.

That's actually a pretty good idea. Or a table-top drill press, which would hold a drum sanding disc or a burnishing tool.

Any dye will act a bit like that. Tooled areas are compressed, which can restrict the dye pentetration a bit. On the other hand, the hair blade - as you know - gives it a bunch of grooves the dye can crawl in. Put the two side by side and it looks even worse than it is. So, no, a different dye is no so much the issue as a different technique. Less, or more. Light, or heavy. You just need to get used to not doing it all the same way.

Belt slot? You mean loop for the belt? Simple version, ask him how wide a belt he wants with it. Many belts these days are 2-ply 1 1/2- 1 3/4" wide. "Cowboy" rigs are often 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" wide. While he doesn't want a belt "right now", I don't like a lot of 'room' in there. Eaglestroker's pic above looks like a pretty good fit on the belt - not a lot of room to let the holster move or "rock". I stitch the loop down - screws are just one more thing to bang and scratch the gun. Again, pic above. He can tell you himself, but I 'guess' that the belt loop was sewn on that holster to allow for the thumb break (?). Note that if you prefer a lower riding firearm, you could just as easily sew the top of that loop first - grain side down - then fold it over the belt and stitch the bottom. Same size belt loop, but pistol rides lower. Oh, and Eaglestroker - nice color on that rig!

Only the veg-tan will burnish on the edge, if that's a concern ...

Hard pressed.. wrinkles... .

Yeah, I gave up on SLC. Tthey replaced a hide with wrinklesThey replaced one that was the wrong cut (when you order backs, it shouldn't have a belly). They replaced hides that were clean from scars, but dry (you could actually HEAR the shears going through it). They replaced every time, but at some point you gotta ask how much time you want to spend on the phone. If you like HO leather, you might try this ... http://www.goligerleather.com/saddlery.html Personally, I like backs, but sides are available too.

Nice looking rig, George. Coulda just not mentioned 'stumblin' onto the color combo

Thread exchange got some "royal blue" that might be what you want (?) Comes in 207 all the way up to #554 (tow rope). http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=waxed-thread

Curious, what 'blue gun' will you use? The '29' is a .44 cal, but comes in a range of lengths ...

Yeah, they gotta answer for their own information. I've had people misspell their friend's name (supposed to go on that belt). People give you the wrong barrel length for their "custom" holster (yeah, the barrel goes INTO the frame). And everybody gives the wrong measurement on the belt - some of them intentionally. Yes, even after you told them how to measure. And you asked if they're sure. With collars, perhaps you cut a strip the same weight as you're using for the collar. Mark it every inch. Have them put it on the animal getting the collar, and tell you the number. Then, you'll STILL need to be prepared for the person who KNOWS it's their fault, but will try to get you to "fix" it anyway. Add $1 to the cost of the collar to cover the strip and the note that says you really mean they need to give you the correct size.

I'd certainly be willing to hear ANYthing about making inventory easy. I HATE inventory. I haven't used quickbooks since we had employees (that was the only advantage I saw there) and that was quite a while back. Just for example ... a few belt inventory "issues" for thought: One guy wants ONE belt, with line 16 snaps in brass, leather keeper loops, antique finish brass heel bar buckle, no tip. You'll need: THAT buckle brass line 16 snaps carving leather in at least one weight (I would use two weights); leather dye / oil / finish carving tools (if tooled) The other guy wants TWO belts, same carving design on both, different sizes. Lined and stitched. Western buckle 3-piece sets (matching) attached with screws. Now you need: two of the new buckle sets 'chicago' screws carving leather (likely two weights); leather dye / oil / finish carving tools; some sort of adhesive, even if only temporary; needles and thread (with or without a machine); Both of these orders assume that you have something to cut a straight strip with, some means of transferring the design (which I would do, since the two are expected to match); some method of applying dyes/finishes, tools to set the snaps and screws -- just to get started on these. Now, these orders happened this morning. Not a problem, it'll get there. Here's the issue ... The tax guy wants to know - at years end if not quarterly - the beginning and ending inventory. Obviously, you can't "plus" er 'minus" the same amount for these orders, as the materials are not going to be the same. The amounts won't be the same. Unless you stock the buckles requested, then you'll order them. The purchase price is "cost of goods sold", which "theoretically" would include any shipping you paid on them. BUT, how to track THAT purchase without doing every little detail on individual orders. Here's one example ... You order the buckles. While you're waiting for the buckles, the person who wanted the belts has an emergency, and it's in their interest to cancel the order. Options? Refuse to cancel. They asked, they paid, and they're "stuck". If this is you, I meant this post for someone else. Cancel the belts. Also cancel the buckles. You can return them, but you're likely out the shipping charges. Cancel the belts. Add the buckles to inventory, you kin use em later. Course, now you gotta 'count' em. Now, what program can I use, that will [relatively painlessly] let me look at the page and know that I have 40' of tooling leather, 97 brass line 16 snaps, 100 nickel chicago screws (which I didn't use), 87% full bottles of leather dye and finish, two western buckle sets, carving tools, a strip cutter, a straigt edge and knife, 95% of a spool of thread, and 10 needles (though you need to dispose of 2 of em). AND that pesky partridge ina tree you hear about. In the end, with inventory, you either track it as you go (meaning you input what you actually used) count it at year end; or lie (make up something) IF you're that last guy, you might consider fair market value before you sign your name for the IRS. Those buckles that guy wants, plated stuff - $25. Shipping on them, $6. Not a big deal? Do that 100 times this year, and your inventory is $600 different from what you actually have. If in your mind you just said "that $6 should have gone in as shipping charges", then you are beginning to get my point ...

I have the Consew 206, which I think is comparable to the chandler Wiz refers to. No problems (well, that one time, which Wiz was able to fairly quickly walk me through). And I've spoken with people who own the Cobra 18 and really like it.

Rivets will work, they just need to be long enough that you don't "smoosh" the binder mechanism. Did the binder work in the folder you bought? How was it attached? I just drill the rivet head off, the rest will pull out through the back once the rivet head is gone. After that you can attach it with a number of methods. I don't care for the steel "chicago" screws in leather. Most hardware stores willl have them in aluminum and brass, calling them "screw posts" Oh, and I usually have the 'round' ones mounted to the spine, and the "D-style" mounted to the back -- each his own ...

Randy's sounds pretty close to what I use, too (7/8 outside, 3/4 inside), on a 2 1/2" wide belt of the same. For those .44 target pistols (10" barrellls) I went with a 9/10 lined with 3/4. Are you wanting this information, or were you interested in the SHAPE and SIZE of the 29?

Very first project was a carved belt. It was not beautiful