Gregg From Keystone Sewing

I know nobody cares, but I wanted you to know anyway that the Hightex parts pages linked here that include the Adler 366 needle plate is not the same as the 266 needle plate. Adler 266 part number 0066-201590 they have listed as a 366/266 needle plate, I stock and sell both, they are different physical needle plates and are not comparable..

Standard feeder and plate have four rows of teeth, Consew does have a six row feeder and plate as well. The are not cheap, about $200 for both, and add two rows of teeth in front, same as in the back. Don't know how much, if at all, this would help out with sewing your goods. Especially without seeing the machine's current setup.

Sewing neoprene on a 146RB should not be a problem. Consew offers for example a WS, or Wet Suit model 347 feed off the arm zig zag. What differs from the standard 347 is the addition of a pressure foot spring, to add more pressure foot pressure. This is the same sewing mechanism on your 146RB, but in a flat bed model. I don't think you need the additional pressure, per say, but make sure you have a lot to sew neoprene. Now, if the feed dog's pitch is off, this may create an issue. The feed dog, as it travels up through the needle plate, should be relatively level with the bed of the machine. If the feeder is high on one side and low on the other, there is a problem that needs to be corrected, and it may not be an easy fix. The feed dog carrier could have been made improperly. One thing you can try to do is put some type of spacer under the feed dog and carrier to level it out, don't forget to lower the feed dog height most likely here. I can't do anything more without seeing, touching and feeling, and even then, I would need to see the actual machine in order to diagnose the real issue, and I'm really only guessing here.

I've really tried to get down to the nuts and bolts, break things down, research books, the web, ask thread and material guys questions, and I've come up empty; where and when and for what should I use a nylon or a poly, and why? If anyone knows, fill me in, I've tried on my own. See attached, this is the best attempt to figure out this, in my opinion anyways. Here's the one for Nylon, both were too large to upload on the same post. Polyester-Thread-Information.pdf Nylon-Thread-Information.pdf

I was reading this and working off of memory (a bad thing for me to do, but it worked here) and I recalled an issue that came up years ago, and did some reading from my deleted emails. Hope this helps. The machine being refereed to here is a Nakajima, made in Japan, their model was 280L. This machine then became the Juki DNU-241(HS), and is now superseded by Juki's new and current model DNU-1541(S). Chandler, and independent dealer, would remove tags and brand this machine as "Chandler brand, model C-267". Not to be confused with an Adler 267. See attached image and owners manual to reconfirm this. Parts and accessories are readily available for this machine. Hope this helps, you have two really good Juki type machines there, both are from about the same vintage. I was reading this and working off of memory (a bad thing for me to do, but it worked here) and I recalled an issue that came up years ago, and did some reading from my deleted emails. Again, Hope this helps. JUKI DNU-241HS Parts List.pdf

Looks great!

We've taken some hook gibs off of many a hook around here as well.

Oh I'm just kidding around here, of course. Bobbin winders need love, too! Hope my posts dripping with sarcasm don't come off wrong, not trying to kill this thread by any means.

Sounds good, keep us posted.

I clicked on a thread about servo motors, now we're doing bobbin winder adjustments???

Don't know how much this will help, specifically, but Juki hook B1830563BA0 for the LU-1508NH and many others can go into this machine. This hook assembly is for "extremely thick thread", As per the Juki book this hook is intended for use in ranges of thread V69 ~ V207. I know this V207 is being used already with the standard hook. Standard hook with LU-653 / LU-1508N is in the range of V46 ~ V138, again, solely going by the Juki book. Hope this info helps, I would not expect anyone to be putting new hooks into their machines based off this here, it's just for reference of course.

Ho Hsing motors are made Taiwan, not Japan, since the early 60s, http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/about-us-en/history-en Quality, support, setup is very good on Ho Hsing motors, and I like working with them when the application, machine and motor are correct.

I'm not the 1st to mention these names, but Tennessee, Atlanta, and New York Sewing Attachment companies can help here.

Lynda, Yes, you can, but why or if you should may be a different story, but for sure, yes. It's not easy, and you have to take your machine apart a bit, and it's not recommend to do this if you wish to go back and forth. 229882 Press foot can be installed, by turning the outside lifting presser foot bar 90 degrees. You should, again, really know what you are doing before you go in to do this; you have to loosen three clamp screws that are on the outside lifting presser bar, and then simply removing the inside, vibrating presser foot. This will now be a needle feed machine. Again, going from setup to setup, even if you are good and know what you are doing, is time consuming, and not recommended to go back and forth with.

I'm enjoying the comradery here... I don't have anything to offer but that I've seen the same thing when a speed reducer is introduced to a $200 range type motor. I only have a theory, and only that, but for example Efka motors have what would be called a positioning speed setting. This is, as you can imagine, where you could set the speed for needle positioning. For example, machine runs at 2000 RPM, but the motor is set to position the handwheel at say 400 RPM. This is an example of one of many many settings, but just understand, that this is considered a condition, or mode, if you will. None of these motors have provisions for this that are in the $200 range, and do not really need to for what they do in most cases. I think what may be happening is that the speed reducer is making it take too long to position the needle, and that the motor my be giving a motor blockage signal and shutting down the motor with an error message. Almost like a time out error. Again, this is only my own theory, and I really have not pinned this down. I don't know what else it could be when considering these motor work properly otherwise, without the speed reducer setup.

***Just to note, #6, 11SV33, G4520074 & #7 11-17 G3797818 both have been formerly converted to feed around the arm machines.

I really enjoy seeing what people come up. One more example of someone taking common sewing parts and making it work they way they want to. BTW, love the belt tensioner!

Seiko STH-8BLD / Consew 206RB-3. Really good model.

What about a new Chinese Pfaff? Just kidding, could not help myself, move along please!

LU-1508N, LU-1508NH, & DNU-1541 series all lift 9mm at the hand lever, 16mm at the knee lifter. All the same. As for a 190 system needle, this a longer needle than the DPX17 (135X17) needle, and would be more prone to deflection going through heavier work. As for the H model of the LU-1508N...this machine has a heavier 'flywheel' or handwheel. It's about six pounds, the standard is is about one pound. This helps with starting torque starting the run and getting the machine turning over. The H model also has a heavy hook that will allow a larger needle and thread to be used. That's it, part for part, really. I don't really know why people would think this is a much heavier capacity machine than a standard walking foot is capable of. It's not. If you want an example of a machine with greater drive, look at models like Consew 744, Seiko JW class, Adler 220, Singer 144Ws, Juki LG-158 models, stuff like that. That said, 1541s and 1508 machines can be setup to do some pretty darn heavy, dense work, more than most would think capable of sewing reliably. So I'm not in any way knocking these two Juki machines, in fact I think they are really really good.

Excellent machine made by Seiko Mfg., in Japan. Large bobbin, walking foot, means top and bottom walking foot with needle feed and alternating presser feet. Common bobbins needles and presser feet. Newest model is STH-8BLD-3. Major difference is the way the reverse and stitch length work, and stitch length. Both share the same major working components, feeder, feet, hook, bobbin case, bobbin, needle. This model was sold by Consew in the US in the mid 70s and 80s under the Consew name and came in as a model 206RB at first.

Same bobbin as 111W155, Consew 227R, Seiko CW-8B. Common bobbin for many various single and double needle lockstitch industrial, also known as a prewound bobbin "G"

Here is the brochure, and it does contradict the owners manual specs for the maximum stitch length. Consew206RB-1BrochureSpecs.pdf

Got it, tried a few times to upload this image, didn't want to work this morning until now.

See attached, this is an image from Tenn. Attachment's catalog. Note the slide plate cover/bobbin cover incorporated into the binder attachment, and the attaching screw that can run on a rail, if you will, side to side and locked into place with a thumb screw. Binders on a Consew 227 or Singer 153 are not uncommon, and this is a pretty good way to tackle a binder install on this style machine. As you can see, in this case, it's all going to be custom work.