Ferg

I believe you would need to look at the Techsew 5100 or several other of the large machines. Keep in mind that you cannot sew with the smaller/finer threads with these. ferg

My skiver has both top and bottom feed, I would need to use a single feed to be sure that was the best way. Anyone considering one of these machines should know that other than the Fortuna, almost all of the machines on the market are exactly the same with different names on them. Fortuna is certainly the one that has been copied the most with at least one glaring difference. Just check out the photos of the different makes you will see the difference immediately. I also have several hand skiving knives I use to clean up corners mostly. That I do with a French Edger at times. ferg

I spoke about the feet in original posting probably being available somewhere. I still think they could be had IF someone cared to make them. I have modified enough leather working tools/machinery to know nothing is impossible, you just need some tools, ingenuity, and an idea. ferg

I have two of the Super Skivers, would gladly give them away for a very good price. Round knife works well especially the smaller ones. I have a straight blade skiving knife, it does a marginal job as well as several sizes of round knives. I have a one inch French Edger I use when not using my Skiving Machine. ferg

I think almost every make of sewing machine has piping feet for them. Bob Kovar probably has them. ferg

Imapeopleperson That machine looks to need a lot of work. I will give you $250. I would pay the shipping IF you can crate it. ferg

No but I am curious as to what this looks like and how it works. Looked on CR site didn't see anything. ferg

Haven't seen one. Do yo have a photo? ferg

You have a clutch motor. Servo motors are easier to handle, only if the machine will do what you expect though. ferg

Realistic thickness is 3/8". Foot lift is about 7/16" to 1/2". Will sew with #207 thread in top with 137 in bobbin. Preference? #137 max and will sew very nicely with #92, #69. I do not sew with anything less than #69. Wallets, purses/handbags, chaps, belts,and lining leather with some critical tension adjustments. I find any machine that you have setup for 1/8" to 1/4" leather thickness wil need readjustment of tension for thinner material. ferg

Wiz has filled the grooves in the toe/foot with the material you get to cover/insulate pliers etc. You can also file/grind part of the teeth off the foot, don't remove all. It will need some traction. ferg

I assure you, other folks have the same problem including me. My old eyes are a little tired and I need brilliant light to see what I am doing. I become frustrated when I think I am at exactly the right spot. Practice has a lot to do with it. I try to train myself with odd ball methods to accomplish things like this. The marks are the most positive so far. BTW: You could certainly make the notches with the Dremel. If the notch across the top of the foot doesn't help you, try making a little groove on the side of the foot. ferg

Google "Sewing zippers in Leather" Also: "Sewing with Zippers" BTW: I am sitting here looking at a commercially available zipper and the only thing I see as hard may be the 1/2" ends with no zipper teeth. That should be no trouble at all. If you want a nice clean end on the zipper ends, I hate the metal stops and ends, Cut a piece of very thin leather twice the length of the end of the zipper beyond the last teeth and exactly as wide as the zipper cloth. Lightly glue the thin leather onto the fabric at the end, turn it under gluing that side also. Now sew through the thin leather as close to the last tooth as possible crossways. The zipper slide will not go beyond that point. Do this on both ends of the zipper. You can use most any kind of lining leather that is only about 1oz - 2oz in thickness. ferg

Problem with cutting the feet short is, will the leather still be pulled through under the feet. If your needle foot doesn't have a slot in it, very carefully file a small "V" notch directly in front alignment with the needle and exactly in the center "Left to Right" on the top of the needle foot. If your foot is black the file will show a bright line. If the foot is already bright metal, using a permanent marker with a fine point, make a thin line inside the little groove you made with the file. BTW: Use a three cornered file and don't do the filing while the foot is on the machine. ferg

Bob, I agree. I have a Consew 206RB5 - Flatbed medium weight leather Seiko CW 8B - Medium weight leather. I want a Singer 29-???? I have no intention of making heavy leather products. ferg

If the reverse stitch is the only thing not working quite right, I would get used to turning your piece around and stitch in opposite direction. I am somewhat confused about your mention of a spring when the knee lift is engaged. Where is this spring? I think a few photos of the works in the left end of machine would help. ferg

For me, the shipping or going to get it would be prohibitive, I live in Ohio. Also: You know nothing about the machine other than what you had been told. The best thing for you to do is maybe sell it to someone for a boat anchor. LOL If you can get it out and onto a truck you might get a scrap dealer to take it off your hands. ferg

I would say 90% of the Kangaroo comes from Australia. That said, I don't think you are going to find Kangaroo in weight more than 2.5oz to 3oz. It is a fantastic leather and wears like iron. Suppliers: Packer Leather, David Morgan, leatheroo.com ferg

I don't understand what you mean by the "Hard Spot". Are you referring to the actual teeth of the zipper? If you are using a nylon zipper the machine will normally sew through it with little difficulty but the knots may not look exactly the same on the bottom as you sew through the nylon. If you are using a brass or aluminum zipper I would suggest you remove the teeth from the ends for about 1/2". There are several methods for sewing the ends of zippers. ferg

I can't help you with the fwd/rev problem, Wiz is the one for that for sure. I have a Consew 206RB-5, I think it is enough like yours that I may be able to help with some of your other problems. You can adjust the height of the feed dog. Raise the machine on the hinges and let it rest on the post in back. Looking under the machine almost directly in front of the feed dog you will note the rod connected to the feed dog clamps onto the shaft running horizontal or left to right. That has an allen wrench fitting in the screw. You can loosen the clamp and move the feed dog up and down. If it is too high just adjust down a little, don't get carried away with the amount of adjustment. You may need to do this more than once. Make sure you tighten the clamp. Your thread tensioner adjustment may be too tight on the thread. Very small thread, such as #69 or #92, can become tightened to the extent you cannot pull the thread through the needle when ending your stitch. Three things you need to check. Number one, how did you weave the thread through the post on top of the machine? Come through the back of the top hole around the post and out through the bottom hole so the thread is heading towards the tensioner. Lace the thread through the three hole holder which should be vertical, so the thread is coming towards the tensioning discs. Make sure you pull the thread between the discs. Down under the bottom tensioner and up towards the take-up at the top of the machine. The thread wants to be pulled vertical so it drops over the little finger sticking out on the back of lower tensioner. Now, all that said. You may need to release the tension at the bobbin to make the thread pull through easily but slightly taught. Don't turn the screw in the bobbin more than 1/8th turn at a time, it is very short. It is not unusual to need to pull some thread at the end of stitching so you can pull your work piece free of the needle etc. Don't pull on the leather piece as it may bend or break the needle. I reach up to the thread to the left of the tension discs, and pull some thread free at that point. You can safely pull your workpiece without messing up the needle. In some instances you may need to change the way you lace the thread through the top post. That will affect the tension also. Remember to have the top take-up in its highest position when you pull the thread loose. Otherwise the bobbin thread will be all messed up. Hope this helps and hope I didn't make this more complicated than it is. LOL ferg

We ship many packages via USPS Priority and First Class. Out of 25,000 packages shipped we might have half a dozen damaged at most. Seldom use UPS, they are simply too expensive. ferg

Double check your info for them. They definitely are in business. ferg

I have used the Thread Exchange several times. I am certain some of what I have is "Service Thread". Haven't had any problems. ferg

137 would be a good choice. ferg

Put the leather in an oven you won't use for your next family meal. It kinda stinks up the place. As above, heat makes the leather shrivel and get very hard and ugly. White Doeskin turns a yellow shade of beige after 3 minutes in a 150 degree/65 degrees centigrade oven. ferg