Ferg

I have two different mushroom stamps. Will sell one $7.00 plus shipping or both for $12.00 plus shipping. Sorry about the blur on the pieces, done in a hurry LOL ferg

I have worked with sublimation for a number of years, you need to do a lot of home work before you start into this. ferg

I bought this heater before I realized it was for use ON the Floor. I wouldn't recommend using it on anything but concrete. 5600 watt 240 Volt (30 Amp) ckt. required Built-inThermostat 6' cord with plug Will heat 600 sq ft Container has never been opened. It is double boxed. Would ship via UPS, weighs 20 pounds in shipping box. I gave $130.00 plus shipping will sell for $125.00 plus shipping. Located in SW Ohio. Anyone close to me can pick it up if you like. Would need to make arrangements. ferg

Thin skin I guess. Read and go on, no big deal is it? Didn't bother me at all. Sure have been a lot worse things happening. LOL ferg

Yep, It works without heat. Take your time, experiment and don't get taken in by fancy fonts. They look great on paper not so good on leather. If you have a heat press you can transfer colors to the leather. Such as: Single color for each line of type. Hot transfer foil is available. Good foil is expensive and you may have to hunt for small amounts since using it with leather consumes very little if only a line/title or such. Another note: You will get better impressions in the leather if you case the piece first. Hot transfer is best used on Chrome tanned leather. ferg

I tore one down, replaced most all parts that showed wear, painted (not powder coat), greased, adjusted and sold it. The fun for me was the re-build. ferg

The only way you can stitch the seams that have been ripped is to remove the entire covering which BTW, looks like "Faux" Leather to me. That said, being on a tight budget, who isn't these days, you said you have some sewing experience. Go to JoAnn Fabrics or your favorite other fabric store and select some suitable fabric for "Slip Covers". Make one for each end of the couch that has the bad end. You can leave the center section with the original fabric if it is made this way. Other piece can be done the same way. For the worn places, make a slip cover for each section that has been stretched leaving some leather look in areas that are in good shape. I would make no attempt at repairing the old fabric other than so it doesn't interfere with your slip covers. The material is made of "heaven only knows what" but I can make a pretty good guess as to it's origin. ferg

If you think you will do this type of thing fairly often, take some "Notes". No pun intended. The whole and half notes are very small hole punches. Grind or file the sharp edges off. Using a hammer, brass or BallPean, hold the punch on a hard steel surface or some very hard stone. Gently tap the end so it becomes oval. You can make several of different sizes. The eighth, sixteenth, thirty second etc. can be made from nails of varying sizes, by simply using a file to make the oval shape. The little Pennants on the notes can be made from a piece of "Flat Stock", Stainless steel is best. Again file to shape, not difficult if you begin with stock that is close to the size you wish for the different parts. Treble and Bass Clef a little more difficult. Do them last so you have experience making the notes. Use an angled blade in your swivel knife about 1/8" in width to cut the note stems. Be careful to not cut into the other parts of the notes when you do the stems. Most good sized Hardware Stores have displays of small brass, stainless, aluminum, and steel, pieces Most are available 12" in length. This is a fun project and one that anyone handy enough to hold a round file in their hand can do. Also, able to handle a hammer or mallet. ferg

On a small change purse or something similar the two rolled edges sewn together are a very clean and pleasing to the eye addition. I do it all the time. For what it is worth, I seldom do a burnished edge anymore. I got some of my inspiration from how very expensive books are bound. Not for everyone's taste but definitely beautiful when done correctly. ferg

Rolled edge around a corner: The edges need to be skived from nothing to the thickness of original leather. With 4oz. leather you will need the side you are using to roll the edge to be a minimum of 3/8" larger all the way around where the rolled edge will be. Measure and mark the 3/8" from edge and make a line from all edges allowing the corners to be marked as though they would be square. Using a drawing square, mark the point on each side of the 3/8" allowance exactly at the point where it begins the curve or portion of a circle if you will. This will give you the location for your first cut which will be on that square mark you just made. YOU MUST ALLOW FOR THICKNESS OF LEATHER THE ROLL WILL COVER. In other words don't make the cuts all the way across the 3/8". With a pencil or whatever you wish to use, make evenly spaced marks at the fold line. Now, using the same number of spaces on the outside radius of the corner make evenly spaced marks. You are going to make "V" shaped cuts in the thin leather with exception of the first square marks you made. Those pieces will have one straight side. If you have done this properly the "V" shaped pieces will fit together, edge to edge around the corner that you should glue down before sewing/stitching. Since you paid attention and didn't make the cuts all the way across the 3/8", you have a beautiful round edge that is rolled just like the straight sides. ferg

I believe that I remember correctly, this machine is made in China of rather poor quality and the power to sew is with your hand and arm. ferg

Different age of the steer or other animal affects the color. Where the animal grew up. On the range, feed lot, Europe, Australia, Brazil, etc. Methods of tannery. If you have a Tandy close by, visit them and look at the leathers available. Now, I don't want to hear all the blather about Tandy from anyone. They are still the best place for folks just starting out. You can normally see many kinds of leather, feel, and drool. You must remember that leather products you might see in person or on this forum have probably been finished with some product. That might have been Neatsfoot Oil, Olive Oil, whatever. You will find a slight pink, tan, to brown even, in a hide. We are talking about a natural growing, animal. Just like humans they come in different colors and textures. Your first endeavor needs to be in Google-ing everything you can imagine about leather, there is much to learn. After that you can think of buying some Al Stohlman books on projects you might like to try. Just some food for thought. ferg

Mike, From an older than you, friend, I am sure glad you are doing okay. How's mom kat? I'll hit the "80" mark this January. Everything feels okay except when I get out of bed or walk. ferg

Don't begin your cut with a heavy hand and DO NOT try to make the cuts touch each other. "Let up" on the pressure, begin the cut and gradually relieve the pressure as you get to the bottom of the cut. Some areas look better with a little work using a "Hair" blade. Frustration normally sets in when you are tired or have had a bad day. Work on leather to relieve the tension don't make the leather look like you were beating it to death. ferg

Ideally, you need two machines to do what you suggest. If you feel you can make some money with what you are doing and maybe throw in some belts of at least 7 or 8 oz leather, buy a Cowboy 4500 or similar. As Wiz said, there are at least three great machines represented on this forum. You won't go wrong with either of them. Visit the shop of the one closest to you and do take your wife. I think she will be as amazed at the machines as you. Good luck and save your pennies. ferg

I think you knew the answer to your question before you asked it. LOL You would need a 441 clone at the least. Cowboy, Consew, etc. Expect to pay no less than $1500 to $2500 for a machine that will likely outlast you. Some folks have good luck on CL & E-Bay. I personally bought one machine from a so-called reputable E-Bay dealer. The machine was okay but any further service from them simply cost me more money and much aggravation. Please tell your wife you need the machine to make some money with your craft, then start saving your pennies. You will be glad you did. ferg

Not much of a site unless you want DVD's and books on saddle making. ????? ferg

It will sew 207 with some difficulty although on occasion 207 on top with 138 in the bobbin will work. The 138 both top and bottom makes the best "heavy" stitch for these machines. ferg

Your machine will run slower with a smaller pulley on the motor than the machine head. Call Bob Kovar at Industrial Sewing Machine. He has the servo you need. ferg

Great read Eric. See!! Folks are interested in what you do and say. ferg

Lou, Try modifying the angle of the blade so it rests perfectly flat with no angle at all. ferg

Get a good knife skiver. You will throw the "Quickies" away after you learn to use the knife. ferg

Explain what skiver you are using. Strop the blade and keep doing that every once in awhile. ferg

You will need to sew the suede. Use some paste wax carefully on the edges. Helps some but as was mentioned, Chrome Tanned will not burnish. ferg

I may as well jump in here I made the handles. Knife maker on the forum made the blades for me. Pic one of them: ferg