Ferg

Rolled edge around a corner: The edges need to be skived from nothing to the thickness of original leather. With 4oz. leather you will need the side you are using to roll the edge to be a minimum of 3/8" larger all the way around where the rolled edge will be. Measure and mark the 3/8" from edge and make a line from all edges allowing the corners to be marked as though they would be square. Using a drawing square, mark the point on each side of the 3/8" allowance exactly at the point where it begins the curve or portion of a circle if you will. This will give you the location for your first cut which will be on that square mark you just made. YOU MUST ALLOW FOR THICKNESS OF LEATHER THE ROLL WILL COVER. In other words don't make the cuts all the way across the 3/8". With a pencil or whatever you wish to use, make evenly spaced marks at the fold line. Now, using the same number of spaces on the outside radius of the corner make evenly spaced marks. You are going to make "V" shaped cuts in the thin leather with exception of the first square marks you made. Those pieces will have one straight side. If you have done this properly the "V" shaped pieces will fit together, edge to edge around the corner that you should glue down before sewing/stitching. Since you paid attention and didn't make the cuts all the way across the 3/8", you have a beautiful round edge that is rolled just like the straight sides. ferg

I believe that I remember correctly, this machine is made in China of rather poor quality and the power to sew is with your hand and arm. ferg

Different age of the steer or other animal affects the color. Where the animal grew up. On the range, feed lot, Europe, Australia, Brazil, etc. Methods of tannery. If you have a Tandy close by, visit them and look at the leathers available. Now, I don't want to hear all the blather about Tandy from anyone. They are still the best place for folks just starting out. You can normally see many kinds of leather, feel, and drool. You must remember that leather products you might see in person or on this forum have probably been finished with some product. That might have been Neatsfoot Oil, Olive Oil, whatever. You will find a slight pink, tan, to brown even, in a hide. We are talking about a natural growing, animal. Just like humans they come in different colors and textures. Your first endeavor needs to be in Google-ing everything you can imagine about leather, there is much to learn. After that you can think of buying some Al Stohlman books on projects you might like to try. Just some food for thought. ferg

Mike, From an older than you, friend, I am sure glad you are doing okay. How's mom kat? I'll hit the "80" mark this January. Everything feels okay except when I get out of bed or walk. ferg

Don't begin your cut with a heavy hand and DO NOT try to make the cuts touch each other. "Let up" on the pressure, begin the cut and gradually relieve the pressure as you get to the bottom of the cut. Some areas look better with a little work using a "Hair" blade. Frustration normally sets in when you are tired or have had a bad day. Work on leather to relieve the tension don't make the leather look like you were beating it to death. ferg

Ideally, you need two machines to do what you suggest. If you feel you can make some money with what you are doing and maybe throw in some belts of at least 7 or 8 oz leather, buy a Cowboy 4500 or similar. As Wiz said, there are at least three great machines represented on this forum. You won't go wrong with either of them. Visit the shop of the one closest to you and do take your wife. I think she will be as amazed at the machines as you. Good luck and save your pennies. ferg

I think you knew the answer to your question before you asked it. LOL You would need a 441 clone at the least. Cowboy, Consew, etc. Expect to pay no less than $1500 to $2500 for a machine that will likely outlast you. Some folks have good luck on CL & E-Bay. I personally bought one machine from a so-called reputable E-Bay dealer. The machine was okay but any further service from them simply cost me more money and much aggravation. Please tell your wife you need the machine to make some money with your craft, then start saving your pennies. You will be glad you did. ferg

Not much of a site unless you want DVD's and books on saddle making. ????? ferg

It will sew 207 with some difficulty although on occasion 207 on top with 138 in the bobbin will work. The 138 both top and bottom makes the best "heavy" stitch for these machines. ferg

Your machine will run slower with a smaller pulley on the motor than the machine head. Call Bob Kovar at Industrial Sewing Machine. He has the servo you need. ferg

Great read Eric. See!! Folks are interested in what you do and say. ferg

Lou, Try modifying the angle of the blade so it rests perfectly flat with no angle at all. ferg

Get a good knife skiver. You will throw the "Quickies" away after you learn to use the knife. ferg

Explain what skiver you are using. Strop the blade and keep doing that every once in awhile. ferg

You will need to sew the suede. Use some paste wax carefully on the edges. Helps some but as was mentioned, Chrome Tanned will not burnish. ferg

I may as well jump in here I made the handles. Knife maker on the forum made the blades for me. Pic one of them: ferg

A couple sources: http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/95-10.pdf http://velohobo.com/2010/12/18/singer-model-95-10/ ferg

I have a LOGO stamp made that is 2 1/8" x 1 1/8" I done make the impressions with a mallet. ferg

All of us get confused sooner or later. The reverse is used to sew 2 or 3 stitches over ones already sewn to "Lock" the stitch. I like to start a distance equal to three stitches away from beginning point. Put machine in reverse, stitch three stitches then go forward to complete your stitching. When the machine is adjusted correctly the stitches will fall in the same holes. ferg

Nothing is impossible, just takes a little longer. LOL I added to the first post I made, check it out. Using paper as a template is the way to learn this technique. ferg

If you have a sewing machine this is fairly easy. If you are sewing by hand I wouldn't try it. Google "Accordion Wallets". You may get some You Tube vids but there are many instances of this style. That is a good photo of them you have. Use that with any others you can find, you will be able to figure it out pretty quickly. I might suggest you cut a piece of paper approximate size, fold it similar to the photo along with the separator piece. This is rather difficult to do on a flatbed machine. A patcher works the best but you can do some of the stitching by hand, finish with a cylinder arm machine. ferg This may help you: http://www.ehow.com/how_12030401_make-accordion-style-credit-card-wallet.html

Peppercorn The Kangaroo is incredibly tough. I have made a couple dozen cases for Nail Clippers from this leather. I carry one myself. It becomes the shape of the tool inside it without molding. I find no discoloration on any thing I have made a case for from the Kangaroo. ferg

Yes. Kangaroo is obviously from "Roos", is very nice and luxurious to the touch and eye. It is chrome tanned, dyed at the tannery, and averages 1.5oz. to 2oz. That makes it a shade less than 1/32" in thickness. I have made a number of change purses/wallets and lined belts and shoulder straps with the Kangaroo. You can get it in a number of colors. I tend to stay with brown or black, using the colors for ladies articles. Not a cheap leather. Skins are small, seldom exceeding 6 square feet. Baby American Bison/Buffalo skins are fabulous leathers also. The feel, texture, and wearability is similar to Kangaroo. Slightly heavier than the "Roo". ferg

Thinning at the bend in a wallet is not such a good idea but if you wish to do a perfect job buy a "French Edge Skiving" tool. Several widths available. They aren't cheap but a good one is a blessing to use. ferg

You have a good start. Since you don't wish anyone to be mean,,,,,, you need to work on burnishing your edges. ferg