$$hobby

welcome some thoughts about this.. limitation in the thickness of a layer or layers you can sew. this will depend on your project. size of thread . size of project based off your machines throat. What to avoid? thats up to you. To me, since you are new and just starting,....Clint Eastwood in one of his movies had a quote...."A mans gots to know his limitations". This is about you too and your equipment or lack of it. Once you TRY to do a project and run up against a wall, you will be the first to know and the first to need to figure if you can do a work around or ? Sorry, but thats how OTJ training works and T&E. You will be doing both. Guess what? you didnt just invent leatherwork. So the many many others that have done this before you have hopefully figured things out. But you want to know everything before you even started and that wont happen until "we are the Borg". If you have any "street fairs/farmers markets" in your area, you may want to visit them and if there are any leathercrafts, look at them and see how they are made. Or if you have any goodwills/second hand stores/garage/estate sales, look for some leathercraft items you may want to build and then buy them and dissect/disassemble them to see how they are put together. Its called REVERSE ENGINEERING. If you want, look for some leather shops in yoru area where they sell leather. The ones i have where i live, i can buy "scrap" leather by the pound. I wouldnt buy some small envelope size piece, but something larger where i can have some leftover material to do some future testing. By doing this, you can do some practice sewing. try sewing 1 layer and then 2 then 3 and until your machine gives up or you hit that wall. You ever see those fabric swatches with various fabrics? you can make them for your leather/sewing. such as jot down the thickness of the leather sewn, the thread sized used and maybe the TPI and or number associated with the dial on your machine to get that TPI. If you decide to make up some glued layers, you may want to try sewing through them too. You may find that the glue may decide to do its job by sticking to your needle/thread. There is so much to learn and you will need to understand, you wont be able to do it all in 1 post. Having some extra SCRAP material where you can work out issues would help. If you can VISUALIZE things in your head, will help too. But not everyone has that. Do what you can/need to, to work it out. If you can draw, try it. If you have any scrap fabrics? that could work too. use your imagination and think outside the box. good luck

Welcome the velcro with glue sucks. heat, sweat, chemicals...ect will probably dissolve/weaken the glue. stitching will be somewhat better. just an fyi, if you decide to use velcro...either with glue or stitch, do your due diligence. From my understanding and buying alot of the stuff is that there are different grades? where they will last x many cycles of use. Usually the loop will give out and you have a fuzzball. If you have any shoes with the stuff, look at them and or anything else that may use the velcro. I would look at some method the use some leather thong/lace and maybe use that to fasten the ends.

welcome it would help if you had a location in your profile. many boards are GLOBAL now. If you are in the USA you can google for leathercraft shops. We have one nearby called TANDY. here is their link...but you can look for a shop near you. ours offere classes and such. I was chatting with them and they more or less offer some "easy"/"beginners" projects to get you started and or if you have a specific project/thing to make, they maybe able to do a "class" around that. https://tandyleather.com/ i would get some books on the subject. I know no one uses books anymore, but you can read it and it doesnt require power or USB/data connection. I never got into the "tooling/carving" since i didnt have an "eye" for it. I tried several times and in Jr. HS where i learned how to do this. But if you want to start with the "easy" things. I know what we did was to make some Key Fobs. They are simple. They did have some carving, but some were just leather tags with a hole and or some were teardrop shaped with a split ring riveted on the leather. I made and use coin pouches that slide over my belt. I dont know about you, but if you still use cash and receive change, the coins used to wear out my pockets. you can look at "kits" if you want and if there are no shops, mail order. at one time, tandy had a starter kit with some projects like the key fobs and some basic tools. I will let you do the fun part and start googling/reserching. another thing. IF you want and still use books, i would look for any bookshops in your area. Even used books and or goodwill. that is if you want to build up a reference library. I have been downsizing and selling my books back to my local indepandant bookseller. here are some photos...take or leave...

welcome if you are still around, do you know color/size...ect?

welcome if you are still around, try googling for "sewing machine" in your area. you can use google maps too. And if you are willing to drive? you can look at other places/cities/states. and if you want, try Craigslist or ebay. good luck

welcome if you have any shoe repair shops in your area you may want to visit and ask questions. at one time, they were common like pay phones, but now you dont see them as often. One of our local dying malls has one and was surprised how much equipment he had in it. But he was setup to resole shoes. and i am surprised people still do that in our throw away society. also, im not sure how you define "sneakers". there maybe a language difference across the boarders. but this is what i call a "sneaker". If you or any of your friends? have any old/trashed/no longer used "sneakers" you may want to grab some and dissect them to see how they are made. Or if you have any 2nd hand stores like Goodwill, you can find cheap/used ones to do the same. In any case, i would dissect some to see how they are made and if and what tools/equipment you may need. you may find that the sole is bonded/glued. Some shoes are done the same, but it will vary.

Northmount, thank you for the instructions. I know better but had a brain fart. I noticed he hasnt been on since then, but who knows now adays. again, thank you

Kenner, if you are still interested shoot me an IM. also i dont have any tooling tools. That wasnt my thing. Let me know what else you want too. R

for what its worth. Some thoughts.... how about the frame? you will need to come up with a motor mount too. if you are changing the height, i would make sure that you can do that 1st and if possible sometype of mechanical/pneumatic or? to do it easier. that also goes for the controls too. a thought. I dont know how much room you have to work in/around. But if you build your new table top to cantilever the right side of the HD bench and position the base of the machine over the legs, that could be enough support so all you need is some thicker/rigid table top. It would also give you more table top work/sewing space. good luck

Moderator - please feel free to change, move or modify as you see fit. Hi again. Still downsizing. Here is a used Heritage skiver. Weaver SKU # 65-6110 With spare blade SKU # 65-6111 Both go for 300 USD + shipping. First “I will take it” …..300 USD including + 23.00 Shipping via USPS Flat Rate Priority Mail box. I had both blades sharpened by someone in Montana? Years ago. I read some article about him and the quality of his work. In any case, I didn’t trust myself in doing so I paid to have it done. If you want it please post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will now you are interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Note, that I also have Heritage Snap setter for sale. See other add. I made a wood storage/carry case to store/carry BOTH units. If you want to buy both tools and want the storage/carry case, let me know and I can ship BOTH units in the storage/case but I will pad the outside with some cardboard. If so, the shipping will be via ground for everything. If you want sticker shock, look at shipping ~ 44 lbs and a box 24.5x8x15.5 inches. Shipping via USPS ground isn’t cheap, but looking at Priority Mail is about 20 bucks more and less time in transit. The way I see it, the longer you spend in transit the more chances of something going wrong. If you want you can do your own research on shipping and see if you can find cheaper. The price different wont be alot in the end for the whole case and tools. By the way, I use some Baltic birch plywood for the case. Ever since reading about it and how much nicer it was to work with, I finally had the chance to buy and use. So the case is made with that and its has a coating of Polyurethane. Thanks for looking.

Moderator - feel free to move, edit or change if needed. Hi again. More downsizing… Here is a lightly used Heritage table top snap setter. Here is an Heritage mfg snap setter, Weaver SKU 65-6150 Included is 1 set for #20 Dot snaps. Im not sure what the other set if for, but chances are, its the next smaller size. First “I will take it” …..100 USD including + 77.00 Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. If you need to ask a question, sorry, but chances are someone wont need to ask a question and will want it before I can reply. But go for it. If you can post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will now you are interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Note, that I also have Heritage Skiver for sale. See other add. I made a wood storage/carry case to store/carry BOTH units. If you want to buy both tools and want the storage/carry case, let me know and I can ship BOTH units in the storage/case but I will pad the outside with some cardboard. If so, the shipping will be via ground for everything. If you want sticker shock, look at shipping ~ 44 lbs and a box 24.5x8x15.5 inches. Shipping via USPS ground isn’t cheap, but looking at Priority Mail is about 20 bucks more and less time in transit. The way I see it, the longer you spend in transit the more chances of something going wrong. If you want you can do your own research on shipping and see if you can find cheaper. The price different wont be alot in the end for the whole case and tools. By the way, I use some Baltic birch plywood for the case. Ever since reading about it and how much nicer it was to work with, I finally had the chance to buy and use. So the case is made with that and its has a coating of Polyurethane. Thanks for looking.

Sold to JHLeatherwood good luck and thank you !

James, happy new year. IM on the way. thanks

Moderator....if this post needs to be in a different category, please feel free to move at your discretion. Hi again and happy new year.... Im still slowly downsizing my life and hobbies…. Here is a lightly used Rein Rounder I have for sale. Its an Heritage #15240 Rein Rounder First “I will take it” …..100 USD including + 23.00 Shipping via USPS Priority Mail. If you need to ask a question, sorry , but chances are someone wont need to ask a question and will want it before I can reply. For those of you that want it, you can post your reply with the “I will take it” so others will know you are seriously interested and if for any reason, you cant/wont/don’t pay, I will contact the 2nd “I will take it” and so forth. For those in Canada. Sorry, but I think with the shipping difference and the difference in the value of CAD vs USD it may not be “worth it” to do so. I looked at the shipping to CAD and the spread was 45 ~ 59 for 2 lbs and that was just for shipping. Payment by USPS Money order if you want it shipped ASAP. If you want to pay by personal check, then I will need to make sure it clears before I ship, unless I did business with you previously. Sorry, no PayPal, credit cards, first born, appendages, or bit coin. I have it priced as it is in the hopes that someone will actually use it and not flip it. Thanks for looking.

Welcome not sure abotu what gun models you need to make. But have you considered just buying what you can? There are people selling them New or used? we use both types of printers (plastic) at work, and i can tell you, none of them will hold up to use as a "stamp". there are metal type printers now. We dont have one, yet and i havent seen one. But if you are really serious, dont ask on here. Go out and see what you can find locally. use your google fu and start looking for places that have them in use. you may find some place that offeres to "rent/buy" time on them and go from there. Heck, they may have a metal type too. while they are getting cheaper year after year, imo, i woudnt buy one now unless you really really NEED one. Chances are the technology will only improve--- if you are old enough, think back to the cell phones. If you remember how the 1st ones were literally bricks. and if you really really need one, i would just find a place to rent/buy time and use them to LEARN how they work. The printer is the endpoint. what will you use for the modeling? that way if you screw up buying one, you wont regret it. then make some of the stuff you want. see if the part ends up working as you envision it. And at one time there were places you could buy time on their machines. IIRC, there was a place on the east coast that had a whole bunch of equipment you could do prototyping. good luck

Some relative words being thrown out here. like many other boards i frequent. we got 1 of each type at work and have been using them for prototyping and making parts for various projects. as of this moment i dont have access to the Spool type, but have been using the resin. Ive only made some small parts with it and am still learning the details. Since it prints upside-down there are some adjustments. The spool type is for the "engineering" and they recently made some vacuum manifolds to use on our CNC machine. They also made the same on our (maintenance) resin machine. In any case, they did some testing of both and using the same files but made of different materials, they found that the spool material was stiffer than the resin. Noting that there are different spool and resin materials too.

i have not seen anything like that. but it appears they just applied the snap to the glide. Why dont you just buy 1/2 glides and add the snap yourself?

@shell, sorry, i just sent them off to a local saddler. If you want, i cant pass on their info and you can ask them if they are willing to part with what you may need or want.

Hey all…happy new year. Im still downsizing and here is the rest of my leatherworking hardware. I have counted most of the items along with added part numbers for those of you wanting to know what left. Many of the hardware is from Weaver, some from Mast and some from my local supplier. I separated most of the hardware into labeled baggies and some of the hardware have been just tossed into the same baggy. Most of the hardware is English bridle hardware and/or halter hardware since it what is repaired or made the most of. But I think you will find a mix of other hardware too. Browse the list and see if the 2 boxes are of any interest to you or worth it to you. Note, the parts are in 2 Large USPS Priority Mail – FLAT RATE – boxes. So the total shipping for both will be $46.00 Im putting a price of 30 USD for all of the hardware + the 46 for shipping so a TOTAL of 76.00 USD. I would prefer a USPS Money Order, but will consider other forms of payment. Only serious inquiries, please and im not interesting in busting up the bunch for someone wanting onesies and twosies…sorry. i have attached some photos of the hardware too. The photos are not of everything but most of whats in the 2 boxes. I have also attached a excel listing too. Thanks for looking… FIRST - I WILL TAKE IT, GETS IT. PLEASE REPLY TO POST AND STATE SO. THAT WAY OTHERS WILL KNOW ITS TAKEN. ALSO, IF PAYMENT DOESNT SHOW, THEN IT WILL GO TO THE NEXT PERSON. ALSO, this is only for USA, Alaska and Hawaii. Sorry for anyone outside... Also, keep looking...i will be selling off my tools and equipment soon... if any of you are thinking im scamming anyone, if Shadybrook is still around ask him. He got everything but what i have here for free. But he had to pay the shipping & customs from the USA. LEATHER STUFF FEB2023 PDF.pdf

look at the fs board....im selling off the rest of my hardware.... its all or nothing...

welcome yes and no. Depending on the PO model. the POs are based off the 1911 design, but some of the POs and other brands are "wide bodies" where the grip is larger/wider due to the increase in magazine capacity. Or if you are familiar with gun magazines, some of them are staggered (double stack) mags instead of a straight stack.

welcome, sometimes you need to work at it to get what you want. heres where i will shop locally.... i will let you take it from there... note im downsizing and have not been there for any supplies other than glue. https://oregonleatherco.com/ i also get some stuff from here too. Note, if you are not sure about some fabrics/zippers, i was able to get a "sample" swatch of various colors/sizes...ect. They are not free, but at least you can do the touchy/feely and get an idea on size/shape. https://www.seattlefabrics.com/ I also used to buy from weaver. Dont know if you have their catalog or not, but you may want to look them up and see if anything interests you. also, when it comes to things, you may want to BUILD UP your REFERENCE LIBRARY. You may not want "books" but i find them handy.

Sold to YinTx THANK YOU!

i didnt read all of the replies... but imo, what it comes down to will is what you are trying to cut, how thick and what you are using. if you are going to use any of those disposable type blades, then dont be cheap and keep on using 1 for months on end. Replace with new often. how often? well you will figure that out as soon as you replace with a new one. when i started in leatherwork it was in Jr High. My instructor had a really nice and SHARP head knife. NO ONE was allowed to touch it since it was his personal tool. but when it came to cutting the leather, it cut it like butter. It looked effortless and he knew how to use it too. So, if you want to, get one and put a good edge on it and learn how to use it. Also, if you go that far as to buy one, then learn how to put an edge on it anyway since a tool like that works best when its sharp. also, not sure what you are making and how important the cut/line is, but no one really knows you screwed up except yourself. But with your description of your "choppy" it appears you are starting/stopping alot?. again, try using a new blade every so often and go from there. last comments.... > how's the lighting in your work area? If you have harsh direct lighting, you may have shadows to deal with. > cutting surface? depending on what you are cutting on, it may catch your knife point too.

welcome, have you looked at any leathershops in your area? or any upholstery shops? ones that may do leather upholstery? or used Craigslist/ebay. or checked with any leathercrafters in your areas? you may find someone local so you dont need to pay for shipping. good luck