Northmount

Interesting idea. Final product looks quite nice. Tom

Since the back side has glue on it, water won't soak through from the back either. Where the flesh side was accessible, have done just as you suggested, and it works. Takes longer to dry out after! Best do like Benlilly says. Acetone might remove the resolene but you may have trouble getting a nice finish again. Try it on some of the same scrap leather first so you can see the results before you inflict more damage. Tom

Gas torch, often acetylene, maybe butane. Bronze rod with flux coating to limit oxidation and get a nice joint. Check your local welding supply shop. Tom

Love it! Tom

I started leather work in 1961, so would have spent a lot of time looking at that catalog. PM me if you would like to scan and send me the whole catalog. Thanks again for posting. Tom

Thanks. What year? I'm wishing I had kept a couple old catalogs. Tom

Regular diagonal cutters work. The end nippers work nice too! Get longer handles if they are giving you problems with #12. Tom

And having the kozzie or sheepskin removable will help in case of slops or spills. Easier to clean up. Tom

If you logged out, or cleared your cookies, or started using another computer, or another browser, you will have to log in again. Tom

The graphic is off Tandy's site. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx It has been posted here, but it's great to have it refreshed for those that haven't seen it. Someday, maybe it will all be metric. I work in an engineering company where I have to switch back and forth frequently. Tom

Light coat of neatsfoot oil should not bother you. Some finishes will do strange things. The hotter the iron, the shorter the time required to burn the brand. I'd go with a cooler iron and hold it longer. Also, make a templet out of pressed hardboard or similar to use as a guide, so you can position the brand carefully. Hold or clamp it down. Then you can lift your iron off, see if it needs more time, or if one side is too light. Then place your iron back in the guide to adjust time, pressure, or correct for being less than square while holding it. Cooler iron will not tend to shrivel up thin leather as easily too. Tom

What are you using for a mallet? If it is a steel hammer, it's knocking little flakes of metal off your stamps. Make sure to use a mallet made of the right materials to avoid damaging your tools. Any filing, sharpening, sanding, wire brushing or similar activities involving iron based material could spread fine bits of iron over various surfaces. Need to keep the leather, tools, and work surfaces clean. Keep anything rusty away. Another source is iron in your water. Try distilled or deionized or reverse osmosis treated water. Do you have rust stains in your sink where your water drips? Another is contaminants in the leather that reacted when dampened, but not likely as it should have shown up in the tanning and finishing processes. Phosphoric acid is fairly strong, so could do more than you wish. Should be rinsed off and neutralized. Tom

Oil is a conditioner, not a finish. Too much makes the leather soggy, and it bleeds on what ever rests against it. Tom

Leave some folded paper towel under the presser foot to pickup excess oil, then wipe the feet and stuff above when you are ready to start sewing next time. Tom

Mildew overnight is rather unusual. Chances are some specs of iron got onto the surface and reacted with the tannin in the leather to produce the black spots. As Sylvia says, use oxalic acid to bleach it out. About a teaspoon per pint of water is usually strong enough. In a pinch, use lemon juice. Iron and tannin is the process for using vinegaroon to dye vegtan leather black. You will find it interesting to look up and read about it. Lots of threads here on how to make and how to use. Tom

Welcome to your new addiction. Let the cb sit for a couple days for the oil to be evenly absorbed. Always go light on the oil as too much makes it soggy! What town are you in? Tom

Holding a hot branding iron on too long will burn right through the leather. The thinner the leather ... Easier to burn through. Also leather shrivels up and shrinks. Just touch the iron and remove. If not dark enough, reapply for another touch. They should do some practice on some cut offs from the same piece first. To be able to reapply in the same position takes some practice. May be worthwhile to make a template guide clamped in position. 1/4" tempered hardboard is easy to cut and work with, and won't catch fire easily. At least for the short time the hot iron needs to be against it. Tom

The smaller piece is sewn or laced to one of the flaps on the cover, leaving a pocket to slip the memo/journal notebook front or back cover into the pocket. Tom

Most covers have a slot where you slide the notepad back cover into it. Picture or diagram would help for those of us that don't have that kit. Tom

Cowboy 227 and Techsew 2700/2800 are the same basic machine. I have a 2700. Works well for me. If you ever sew 8 oz, single layer hard temper or 2 layers, get the pulley reduction kit. Tom

Have you looked at Al Stohlman's encyclopedia? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1128-the-stohlman-encyclopedia-of-saddle-making-volume-1-by-al-and-ann-stohlman.aspx Three volumes. Also there are sites selling DVDs. Tom

Do a search here. I recall seeing a post about sharpening bell skivers. After the initial sharpening, there is a stick used to take the burr off. The post was probably within the past 3 months. Tom

Welcome to the forum. Let's see some photos, especially when you do horse carvings. Tom

I think the <return> key not working is a problem with MS IE. Try holding down the <alt> key and typing "010" on the keypad. This is the code for a line feed (LF). "013" is the code for a carriage return (CR). You can try it too and see if one or the other works. This only works on PCs, not Apple products. Tom

Brown paper bag works well for burnishing the thread too. Tom