Northmount

See https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/Main/globalSearch.do?%7BglobalApp.quickSearchSearchType%7D=&%7BglobalApp.quickSearchCriteria%7D=Arch+punch Just bought a few. Good quality steel. Made in India. CTG

Princess Auto presses are made in China. No name brand. Take a look in Harbor Freight. Also do a search here for presses. There are a few threads I recall, including a link to a PDF about using hydraulic presses for clicking. I bought the Princess Auto 20 ton press a few months ago. It was on sale for the same price as a 10 ton so i couldn't resist it. Now need to get some dies made. My son has been using it doing mechanical repairs since I put it in his shop. Ran out of space here! CTG

Your and your cohorts' work and time are greatly appreciated. Testing and making everything work with tablets and mobile devices is a lot of work too! Would be nice if all browsers actually followed the standards. My iPad is behaving quite nicely with your new templates. CTG

Nice job. You have certainly been bitten by the leather bug. Keep it up! CTG

If you are using MS Outlook for email, email it to yourself and let Outlook resize it for you. Else look through the computer help section and find help there. One program you can use is IrfanView http://www.irfanview.com/main_download_engl.htm. Resize to max 800 pixels wide. CTG

I think a $5 or $10 minimum charge is quite reasonable. $2 or $3 hardly makes it worthwhile to do the bookkeeping, look after sales tax, file income tax and all those pesky time consuming things that goes with being in business. People these days think nothing of dropping $10 on things of absolutely no lasting value. The work and repairs we do have much longer term value than a bag of popcorn or a soft drink at the movies. If you aren't going to charge for reasonable value, then skip the charge and just do it for free. No bookkeeping, no taxes ... Put a tip jar on the counter, just like a box for pennies that people don't want and leave for someone else to make up those few cents difference to round out a nickel or dime. If you don't want the tips, give it to a charity end of each week. Let them do the accounting. Over 20 years ago in a computer business, we decided that the only way to price the small bits and pieces was to start at $5. It didn't make sense to mark up 30% on a $1.39 item when you look at all the time and costs that go into ordering, picking up, stocking, etc. It sure made pricing a lot more simple and no one ever complained. Only high volume sales can make money on $1 items. And we are not high volume sellers. Think about it. Remember our work has lasting value. Keep that in your mind when working and pricing your time, labor, talents, skills, etc. CTG

Yes they do. There is some good wallet info in this post: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41902&hl=+wallet%20+pattern#entry260881. There is also a reference to a pattern near the end of that thread. If you copy an old wallet, pick a simple one. Some have too many pieces and would be quite bulky when made of leather. There is a tutorial here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38359&hl=wallet Enjoy. CTG

Looks like gallery pictures are working now. Last I tried looking at comments this morning, on the right column beside the gallery, it was still having a problem. I know some of the headaches they are going through with this upgrade. They will have them solved before long. In the meantime, hang in there. Computers and related systems have sure changed since the 60s when I first started working with them. Then I had a long break for 15 to 20 years, then back as a user, then 10 years later, had to set up windows ntserver 3.51 for my distributed control systems lab in a tech school. My 13 year old son did most of it. He was one of the first in Calgary to successfully install nt3.5. Took him many tries, but finally located all the drivers to make it work. After he set up the server for my lab, then I just had to maintain it, lucky for me! Then had about 10 years in a computer sales and service business, then back to just a user. Still do a touch of programming, but glad I don't have to keep up to date with all the software changes.

Take a look at this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40290 CTG

Are you logged in? I haven't had any such responses. CTG

Like you did ... Option I missed is moving the pulley itself. So when the belt is straight down from the head pulley and not attached to the motor, does it hang in the middle of the slot, or against one side? If it hangs against the side, widening the slot like you are doing is the easiest thing to do. Then the motor pulley/ motor should be moved to align with the head pulley. CTG

Some motors have the mounting bracket slotted where the table bolts go through. You should be able to get about 1/2" of adjustment there ... hopefully in the right direction. Some motor housings are like extruded aluminum, slots that have a recess for nuts inside the extrusion. If your motor is like this, then you can loosen up the mounting bracket attachments on the motor and slide them over a little. The last resort is to drill new holes in the table. CTG

Something else that helps is Fiebings Liquid Saddle Soap. If I remember right, I used the saddle soap first, followed by the oxalic acid. CTG

A piece of MDF (medium density fiber) board works well too. The surface is very flat, firm. Lasts longer than cardboard. Very sturdy and supports sharpening guide helping to keep it straight. Has become my preferred method instead of leather. CTG

I'm no expert on splitter blades, but ... Since the blade is relatively thick, I would do a micro bevel until such time as it is getting too wide, then reshape the edge and apply a new micro bevel. Same as with many woodworking tools like planer, jointer, plane blades, etc. It's a lot quicker to touch up the micro bevel and to strop it than having to work the whole surface each time. CTG

Depends on what the blade is. Swivel knife, maintain the full angle. Don't do a micro bevel on its edge. Regular knives, chisels, etc. work on the micro bevel. After a long period of use or damage due to improper usage, then the edge may need to be ground back and reshaped. Then a micro bevel done on the edge. There are a lot of posts on sharpening different types of knives. Do a search for the type you are sharpening. CTG

I have used oxalic acid to reduce the smell to a much more tolerable level. Then air out with good circulation around it for a couple days. By the time I was finished tooling and applied a finish, the smell was gone. Don't soak it too much or you will be waiting a long time for it to dry back to a proper cased working level. CTG

You could put a divider in the bag, attached to the gussets, and place the pockets on the divider. CTG

I'd like to see the leather inside. Did you do any pockets, or just line it? The combo looks great. CTG

The roughness inside the collar is likely due to age and sweat and oil from your skin, breaking down the leather itself. Most leather coats and jackets show degradation in the collar after a few years of wear. One fellow told me to always wear a scarf of some sort to protect the leather in the collar. CTG

0.9 mm is very thin, between 2 and 3 oz. I would go heavier IMO, maybe around 6 oz (2.4 mm). There is some info and a conversion chart here. Leather info 1 oz is 1/64 inch or 0.4 mm. For the people stuck in British units, 1 inch = 25.4 mm. Time to get familiar with metric units and conversions for the basics so you don't get ripped off and can figure out what you are dealing with. CTG

Do a search for the items credit card magnet There are 3 threads with info that might help you decide what to do. CTG

Also called pear shaders. CTG

There is a post somewhere here with pictures and description building a rawhide mallet. Try searching for it. Even tells where to get rawhide ... Can use dog chews. CTG

The tongue end is too long. It absorbs a bit of moisture so is being wet formed while wearing. It looks like the shirt cuff, or the way he wears it pushes it out of alignment with the rest of the strap. Cut shorter, and maybe an additional keeper will help keep the tongue in alignment with the rest while being worn. CTG