Aven

Lucky for me the previous owner of our new place left a half full container of diesel. Now I know what to do with it. Thanks kkg.

I stumbled across an Adler 205-370 that's been sitting out in a storage shed for that past several years. Its been being baked by the summer heat of New Mexico and is covered with fine dirt. How do I start cleaning this poor thing? What should I use to clean it and/or what should I avoid using? I have downloaded all of the manuals that I could find. Thank you Uwe! Any guidance you can offer will be most welcome.

How much longer do you need to make the belt?

I can't answer the first question, but for the second one, yes. You'll need a press and a die specifically for hooks. It has a slot in it to tuck the hook part in to protect it from getting squished when you set them.

I don't think they were using veg tan. It might have been latigo, but definitely didn't look like veg tan. It looked waxy and supple, but they did say they use all different kinds of leather.

That doesn't look like their process. They get it wet in room temp water, last it and let it air dry. They show it at about 5:45 in the video.

Scott, that looks like a Russell Thula boot, but not quite. It could be a Dyer, a Arrow or a Quoddy. But no matter who made it, I think this will give insight into its construction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BKTqfOE2rc

My library is packed up at the moment, so I can't quote you a source. Pitch. Pitch is what was traditionally used. The Scandinavians made/make birch tar from birch trees. I don't know what the continent used, but I'm sure it was something similar. Tree tar/pitch was used to weatherproof stuff and as a glue. See if you can find a copy of Black Jacks and Leather Bottells. Its old enough you might find it on one of the CDs that ebay sellers hock that have 100+ books all about whatever you are looking for.

What kind of boots, motorcycle or English equestrian?

I think this guy is doing what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENjTdSGIdlw

Portland OR - Laughing Crowe Jason Horvatter Eugene OR - Bonney and Wills are relocating there. NYC - I can make shoes. They also have online courses There are other in person courses around the US. Those are the ones I know off the top of my head.

Check out the Chicago Shoe School. It's not exactly next door, but it's closer than NYC or Portland. https://www.chicagoschoolofshoemaking.com/

You are correct, those are lasted, meaning a shoe shaped last of the correct size was used to make the boot. The upper was put together first. The midsole is attached to the last and then the upper is stretched over the last and attached to the sole, via glue or stitches. Once that is done, the outer sole is attached. The shoe you want to create uses a cup sole that is specifically made for a particular last. I seriously doubt you will be able to pick them up for one-offs.

As Matt said, its for cutting sole leather. I can't tell if that is a Landis or another brand. Landis made 1in1, 3in1 and a 5in1. They all had the sole cutter function, but the blades are not the same. Keep that in mind if you have to replace the blade.

Al, I like your solution. I'll have remember to do that when we get moved and I get a shop built. Right now the shop is in boxes, the heads are off the tables. Just waiting for the house to go to closing. Its nasty today. I can't see across the street at the moment.

Size 34 pants is, depending on the brand, your waist (skin) measurement. Some brands mark their waists an inch smaller, meaning that if your waist was 34", their pants that fit you would be a 33". Makes people feel good about themselves. You also have to decide if the belt is for jeans or for dress. The thickness of the jean material vs cloth pants can be a belt hole different in circumference. You really need to measure them in the pants they want the belt for. A "try on" belt that has holes from like 18" from the buckle to 50" past the buckle lets them try it on, figure out the hole that works for them. It keeps the ego out of the process.

These are the key tips I was taught for using a skife. 1. Skive on a piece of glass. 2. Place your thumb on the rolled part of the blade holder, just in front of the triangle shaped handle, because you have to bear down. This will help keep it from bending right at the transition and breaking. 2. Handle hand stays over the leather 3. Hold the skife at an angle, about 45 degrees. It helps to mark that angle with a marker on the skife as a visual reminder. 4. If you start making crumbs replace the blade. 5. Make sure you only use one blade at a time. More is not better surprisingly.

Its a darner. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html

Check out Hide House's Grizzly. It's an oiled leather with a medium soft temper. https://www.hidehouse.com/Leather/Grizzly-Cow-Full-Grain-Oiled-Finish-GZ13-P.asp

Thank you all for your advice. I'm not as concerned about moving them now.

Those turned out a treat. Well done! I love the border tool you used between the stamps. How much for a pair?

LOL! Thanks for the reminder Lee. Should I take the servo off the stands?

Thank you gentlemen. No moving company, just me. Thank you JJN I appreciate the advice and the well wishes. So, tape, boxes, foam and they ride up front with me. Got it.

Moving day is getting close. I have two machines I need to transport halfway across the country, a Singer 31-15 and and Adler 167 in a Uhaul truck and I don't want to mess them up. Is there something I need to do to prep them for shipping? Thanks.

Thanks!