Luke Hatley

Josh you have came a Long way. Your Leather work is Fanstic............

son of a gun.........that worked for me also.i have been sewing 10-12 oz leather, then was sewing 7 oz. tightned the foot pressure .......fine stiches. one of the days i hope to know more about my machine...... thank you for sharing.

nice..............

Haywire.... what thickness of leather were you sewing when the adler was stiching good. then what thickness was the leather when it was skipping? I have a sew-mo (copy of the adler) today i needed to sew 7-8 oz leather then the skipping started, i found some thread in the shuttle, but that did not get it sewing. Ok now i folded the 7-8 oz leather and sewing 2 thickness and the machine started sewing like it should. why......

HATE TO SAY THIS...BUT FOR THAT TYPE OF EQUIPTMENT YOU SHOULD HAVE USED FIEBINGS DYE... THEN FINISH WITH SUPER SHEEN OR RESOLINE.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.........

I am having a hard time trying to find "kingsmercer crafts".......HELP PLEASE.

RUSS..........I M H O.....i would forgo the Patch machine. it's just for Patch work. contac some of the machine suppliers at the top of this page for more information My self, i have a copy fo the Adler 205-370 and would not take anything for it.

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The Center Foot will allow you to sew very close to the edge of your work. The Edge Guide is very helpful imho... you dont need the lube pot. Thread is 207 on the bobbin and 277 on top. good luck & happy sewing

A+ MAKES ME PROUD THAT YOU ARE HERE.

Leatherman if i were you i would get "Shoe Strech" at your local Shoe Repair it has Glecrin in with the alcohol that will lubcriate the fibers of the leather when they are strectch.........

Lars..... you need to get size 18 needles with a "LEATHER POINT" to sew the leather and size 69 thread. you might have to contac a sewing machine person in your area for close up inspection of what you are doing and personal instruction. i dont think you have a clunker....it's just opperator error........

I got mine from campmor also

Ray check your weaver catalog , they have one. Me,personally i would set the spots by hand Why ? because of the cost of the machine and dies. if you have the right rivett setter it is possible to get dies that will set spots. also check out the Tandy Catalog and look at there Rivett setter, it will also set the spots with the right dies.

Heathen, caint help on the sheephides..But do a web search on Brain Tan Leather and do the deer hides with that process. I know that there are a lot of Pre 1840 reanactors in Europe that would like the product. but the finished leather should be 2-3oz. Ps WELCOME TO THE FOURM YOU'LL LIKE IT HERE.......

Two fine looking purses.......would you have an idea as to how many hours that it took to do them?

THOES ARE VERY NICE A+.... WHAT TYPE OF LEATHER DID YOU USE?

DARK AGES ??? IT'S BEEN SO LONG I HAVE FORGOT....WHAT IS THAT TIME PERIOD ?

Ed..."Ligne".........only time i have came across it is in the Hat Trade. linge is a french measurement used to measure width of ribbons that go on dress hats.

Fine folks to deal with. I have ordered Bull Hide & Buffalo leather from them. "top quality"

CHECK THESE FOLKS OUT.www.KNIFE NETWORK .COM

THE POUNDO RUBBER FROM TANDY AND THE RED ITEM FROM WEAVER HAS AN ADVERSE EFFECT ON MY PUNCHES. AN OLE SADDLE MAKER TOLD ME TO USE A TREE STUMP. SO I OPTED FOR THE END GRAIN WOOD. IT WORKS FOR ME.......

The best surface for me has been.....END GRAIN OF WOOD.

Thanks for the up date. when can we see what you have to sell now?