TonyV

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Yeah, lettering is a challenge, especially at first. Spacing, centering, whether to use decorative cuts or not, stamps or freehand... A body could use up a couple good bellies practicing. Glad you're back in action. I'd wear that belt, but my name ain't Mullins

Check out the Patterns and Templates subforum here. Lots of sharing going on. Can't find what want? Ask. Just might find what you need.

Leather makes everything better!

ON Gutenberg.org there are a few books published in the 19th and early 20th centuries dealing with leather tanning. Some get quite scientific. You will find that the principles of tanning really haven't changed all that much over the centuries, mostly the equipment and techniques have been modernised. For example, tumbling drums might have been powered by water mill, men or mules 800 years ago, powered by steam 200 years ago, electricity 100 years ago, but the tumblers are very similar, built of wood 800 years ago, now built of metal. Dyeing was, of course, done with natural dyes like walnut and other vegetable dyes, vinegaroon, perhaps some mineral dyes, or painted with the paints and tints of the time. The paints used on a shield would likely be the same paints used on the scabbard. Dyeing would have been a very expensive option to one buying leather. Don't forget that oiling a piece of leather will darken it quite well, making a dye unnecessary in many cases. Gutenberg has old books on dyeing, as well. 'Dyes and Dyeing' by Viscount Exmouth Charles Pellew has a chapter devoted to leather staining and dyeing. Mentions acid dyeing for different colors.

Dwight is spot-on there. As long as you're not planning to bone in the fine details of the gun, a similar pistol will work. I used my Taurus 709S 9mm to make a purse holster pattern for my daughter's Sig P365 .380 before she even picked it up. I had to use some plastic wrap to give my pistol a bit more bulk, about 1/16 in all around, but it fit just fine when I gave it to her. As for revolvers, this method can work, too. Several years ago, before I picked back up the leathercraft habit, I bought a Bianchi holster that was made for a S&W 3in J-frame to use for my Ruger SP101 3 inch. It was a very tight fight and took some effort to work my revolver in, but now it fits like a glove.

I don't usually use half round cutters for strap ends, but they come in handy for cutting inside and outside corners, such as you might find on holsters and other items with lots of curves. They can be a PITA to keep sharp and honed, but when they are sharp, they are easy to use and make clean cuts. They've earned a spot in my toolbox. Hole punches can't cut outside corners, but they can do inside corners and the round ends of oblong cuts. I use well-honed wood chisels to finish the oblong cuts. I think quarter round punches would work best on strap ends.

The term 'ounces' relates to the old measuring method of leather in 'ounces per square foot', which worked fine in English speaking countries, really doesn't work well in most parts of the world these days. MM thickness is used in most of the world now, but 1/64 inch/ounce is still commonly used. No idea what part is in your pic. Possibly a damaged snap. Rivets, glue and sewing are used where you want permanent attachment in your project. Chicago screws are used for assemblies in which you want adjustability or replaceability in your project. They are like a rivet that screws together. Snaps, zippers and buckles are for frequent opening and closing. Start out learning to hand sew on small projects. It's a valuable skill to have. Even many machine-sewn projects can have hand sewn parts. Sewing machines can be very expensive and can be a separate hobby to themselves, but are often necessary if you have a lot of stitching to do or if you plan to make any money in leathercraft.

You're welcome

There are different methods to fit the welt; 1-cut it out the shape you need. 2-wet form it. 3-Cut out darts (small triangle pieces) to allow the sharp angles to bend. Check this video.

You would make a sheath for that knife about the same way you would make a sheath for any knife. Trace the shape and go from there. The blade would follow the shape of the channel inside the sheath.

If it made economic sense to utilize the nearly 3 million feral camels in Oz I'm sure they would. I know that some of the culls are used for pet food, but they have to process the meat immediately. The processor has to actually be on site when the camels are shot, and they can only take a limited amount at a time. Not so easy when you have million hectare + stations to run, with very limited water and grazing available in that desert environment. The trailers, stockyards, fences and other equipment that are designed and plenty strong for cattle are just too small to manage camels, which are much larger than cows. It would require an entire new setup and more manpower to wrangle them successfully. Not to mention Ozzy laws and regulations. I agree it seems wasteful. I have had a camel steak and it was very tasty and tender. Camel leather is reputed to be both soft and strong and there are thousands of hides left in the desert to rot. Ah well, worms and buzzards gotta eat, too. And I have wished for camel leather on occasion myself.

Agreed, a great start. Leather has a very broad spectrum of interests. This forum covers most all of them with very knowledgeable people wjilling to help.

Quick Shine's MSDS sheet describes the product as an acrylic finish, "Opaque, white acrylic" Propylene Glycol and Tributoxylethyl phosphate are the listed hazards. Mop n Glo lists Diethylene Glycol monoethyl ether. Both are acrylic finishes, so if the odor is what drives your choice, pick which ever pleases you. I have no idea which would be the superior product on leather.

You might need a bit more moisture, depending on what you mean by "little damp". We can't get a burnish with the stamps unless there is enough, but not too much, moisture inside the leather. There are many different methods to case the leather, a simple search of "casing leather" on youtube will give you plenty of options, but most of them agree, get it damp enough until it doesn't absorb the water quickly, and then wait long enough for the leather to begin looking like it's dry. Of course, too much moisture has its own set of problems, like mushy imprints and cuts, but judging from your statement, I would try more water and a bit more time to let it penetrate to the center. Trial and error will find the right moisture level and technique.

Thanks for your hard work Johanna

Hacked? I would be more concerned about our data security than the appearance. Just my 2 bits.

She will be proud to use it. Great job. Erin go bragh

Very nice. Worthy of the finest handmade arrows and bow.

hmmmm... leather scented leather soap

Yes, wood contributes to your knife getting dull. Just think of all the opportunity you have to get really good at sharpening and stropping! If you're determined to avoid plastic surfaces, try a softer wood surface, such as plywood, which you would be able to easily replace when needed. But really, the best cutting surfaces are made of plastic. Many of them are made of recycled plastic, if that helps.

Thanks Bruce. Got it bookmarked.

@Gezzer, looks like a 'newsboy' cap.

Nicely done! It looks like it was made for that wall.

Make that 4 Leave It votes. That old patina has its own quality that can't be reproduced.