TonyV

1 coat. Antique is a stain that can stain just about anything it touches if it is allowed to dry, even pro-resist. So don't let it dry where you dont want. Technique counts here. Apply the antique in smaller sections and quickly wipe off before it has a chance to dry. Practice on scraps to get the feel of it ( you get some tooling practice this way, too). It might still darken the wipe-off areas a bit, but you will learn to take this into account. You can try 2 coats, or more, if you wish, but practice working smaller areas anyway. Practice is good.

I tie the knot between the layers then cut the threads as close to the knot as I can get with my utility knife. I don't use the knife to slice the thread in a cutting motion, but pull the thread against the thread so that they make the cutting motion. This helps avoid cutting the leather. If there is any little tag of thread still sticking out, just tuck it in, then hammer the seam.

Yeah, that's the vid I was thinking of. Or, just upsize the purse-size pattern to your liking.

Even on very dry leather it is easy to use too much oil. I usually apply just a light coat of NFO to the grain side and give it time to soak in. If it's still too dry, a 2nd light coat may be in ordre. Time to absorb is almost as important as quantity. Remember, you can add more oil if you need to, but it's pretty tough to remove it, and oil-soaked leather is just nasty. That said, I had a cetain piece of veg that was dryer than a math lecture. I brushed a bit of NFO on the flesh side and it definitely helped.

Your stitches look quite even and tidy. good job. Next, learn how to backstitch. I am not a big fan of burning the thread ends. I think it often looks untidy and unprofessional from soot and burnt leather. In most cases I will backstitch then tie a square knot between the layers, cutting the thread just below the surface. A correctly tied square knot will not come undone and, once the seam is tapped down with the hammer, invisible. In some cases when I can't tie a knot, I'll cut the thread short and use the needle or an awl to tuck it down into the hole on the back side of the project with a small dab of white glue. I will burn the ends occasionally, but not often. If you must burn your ends, remember that you're not lighting a torch! You don't want the thread to flame. Cut short and just melt the ends enough to make a tiny mushroom and use the lighter or something to press it smooth while soft. Make it as invisible as possible.

I used a trim paint roller on a 2'x 9" piece recently. worked well. My basic theory; larger piece, larger applicator.

The tooling in itself has stiffened the leather by the compression from stamping. Alcohol will dry it out a bit adding to the stiffness, so will dying (it contains alcohol). Use NFO or mink oil to condition it before dying. It will loosen up a little on its own over time and with use. Don't overdo the oil. Any oil or conditioner will darken the leather a little bit. It looks darker right after application then lightens some. That's all in the nature of leather and you will learn to work with it.

Ouch! I feel for ya, bro.

I can see how the front arch of the saddle might be used as a handhold by a passenger, while the horse is being led by someone else, a workaround for someone that doesnt know how to ride a horse.

Ballistol is my go-to CLP for all my guns. Its relatively high pH counters the acidity of rust quite well. I see no need to use NFO on the inside of my holsters aside from the initial conditioning in construction. Yes, I use a light application of NFO before assembly to condition the leather, but that's all. I have never encountered any issues of corrosion or rust, nor dry leather inside the holster. Incidentally, I grit my teeth any time someone recommends using suede to line holsters. I don't want the fuzzies getting into the works of my handguns. Some claim the suede helps in retention. I disagree. The fuzzies soon wear away, some of it into your gun. Chrome tanned suede is corrosive. Best to line the holster with veg tan and use wet molding and/or physical retainers like a strap, flap or chicago screws to secure the gun.

They both look real nice. Piping can be tough to do, and you did it well. 👍 My biggest critique is that you put the seam of the rolled collar on the inside. I think that could probably be an irritant to the dog. IMO the seam should be on the outside. MIght be easier to sew that way too.

It looks like you're piercing your thread with the needles. This causes tangles and it's a common problem for beginners. Run the left needle through the hole then pull the thread back toward yourself so that your right-hand needle has room to go through the hole without piercing the thread. When the RH needle is about halfway through, tug on the left thread to test whether it's pierced or not. If the RH needle moves with the tug, it's easy to fix now. Study a couple vids on how to saddle stitch by. J.H. Leather on youtube and you'll see what I'm trying to explain. Watch a couple times, practice on scrap and before you know it, you'll have a decent stitch. Once you have the knack, you will only get better. Until your arthritis takes over 🙄

There will (should) be gun oil on the firearm. Gun oils vary between slightly base to slightly acid. The slight difference in pH between leather and gun oil will be negligible. There really is no need to oil the inside of the holster, as some of the gun oil will transfer to the leather. Protecting the gun is the higher priority here and guns should NOT be stored in the holster when not in use. Normal application of NFO during your work process is adequate. It is the new owner's responsibility to keep the holster cleaned and conditioned and the gun oiled.

Lovely work!👍

Beautiful work! It took me 2 attempts to succeed making a pair of infant moccasins for my great grandson for Christmas. Simple ain't always easy!

Good information Bruce. I knew size numbers varied by mfr, but didn't know where was a method behind their madness.

Yes to books. Be careful of the Youtube vids. Some are experts with valuable skills to share and well-presented lessons, others not so much. Amazon tool kits made of chinesium? Some of those tools work out ok, some don't. You will end up with a box full of tools that ain't worth the postage and/or unnecessary to your chosen path in the craft. A mere few that serve well enough. Better to buy what you need when you need it, and be willing to spend for better quality tools that you know you want and need. So many paths to take down the leather trail! Tooling, carving, plain. and artsy. Saddles, chaps, tack and harness. Clothing shoes, boots, purses and bags. Belts, wallets, holsters, sheaths. Furniture, wall art. Braiding and whips. 'Adult' items and kink. Choose somethin simple to start with. A belt, a wallet, something like that. I suspect that most of us started with a kit from Tandy or a craft store. Start with the most basic tools. You need a cutting surface like a plastic cutting board. A very sharp knife, a Stanley utility knife works very well and an awl. stiitching or lacing needles if needed, PVA glue or contact adhesive as needed. Build a couple simple projects first, then move on to the more complicated stamping and carving. Buy tools as needed.

On thin leather I use water or tokenol and a piece of canvas or denim. You can hold the leather edge right close to the edge of your bench to help keep it from flapping around too much. Those thin edges really don't need much slicking, and edge paint is too much hassle IMO. To make paint shine it takes sanding between coats.

In the upper right corner of your post there are 3 horizontal dots, which is the dropdown menu. Click it. The EDIT option is there.

We're always our own worst critics. Welcome back to the obsession. Your work looks great.

A light application of NFO the day before dying helps restore moisture to the leather, which helps the leather to take the dye. When the dye is dry, buff it with a clean rag before applying top coat.

The design and construction of your pictured piece are what gives it most of its rigidity. It may have some reinforcement of the floor (cardboard or fiberboard), but I suspect the sides and ends are simply just good veg tan. I would think it will develop a measure of softness and give over years of use, but the horizontal pieces at the bottom of the ends and the billets wrapped around the sides add significantly to the stiffness.

Hand-tooled leather birthday cards are always well received. I think they'll do just fine as is. Just a few weeks ago my daughter said "that's the coolest card I've ever received" about a simple silhouette-carved rose and lettering on a 4"x5" piece of scrap. It's the thought and handmade effort that count the most!

If this is a prototype, don't bother trying to finish the inside this time. In future, you can slick the inside with gum trag or tokenole using a glass slicker before gluing it together. I like your idea of lining a future model with goat. Goat is very tough leather. I don't care for suede liners because the fuzz tends to wear off and get into the works of the firearm and I feel that is wears faster, and I don't think it does much to retain the gun. The draw is much easier and slick with a smooth liner.

I like it. The artwork is very well done. I also like the veiner/mules foot border. And the braided hammer strap puts the whole thing together.