TonyV

Yessir. This works too, in a pinch! Water, spit, beeswax, tokenole, gum tragacanth, saddle soap, neetsfoot oil or any combination of the above. The finishing agent is actually less important, IMO, than good clean cut edges and the application of friction, not pressure, to smooth and polish the leather edge. Sandpaper helps tidy up some rough edges. Burnishing tools include, but not limited to, wooden burnishing tool, plastic burnishing tool, denim or canvas, even the wooden tool handle of an edger. You will find your own preferences and methods.

Beautiful work with some unique style. well done.

I use beeswax on my thread to help reduce fraying, needle tips and awls to ease the stitching, on my hole punches and corner punches. I don't use clicker dies, but if I did, I'd use it on them. In addition to being a lubricant, a small bit of beeswax on the fingertips aids in keeping my grip on the sewing needles, too. I also sometimes use it on my edges, or to slick the flesh side when it's needed. I have seen it used as a finishing coat, as well, but I haven't tried that myself, yet.

Edges are my Achilles heel. Yours ain't perfect but not bad at all. Some folks spend an inordinate amount of time on edges to get them glassy smooth... only to have them fray with a little bit of use. Don't be too hard on yourself because it proclaims the handmade source of the gift. I love the design and the execution is worthy of pride. Lucky son! I grew up playing Scrabble across the table from my mother. It's how she taught us how to improve our vocabulary.

I saw that too. With a round hole punched at the apex of the dart, everything fits together nicely, possibly without wet forming. But wet forming probably wouldn't hurt.

I saw the title "How to Buckstitch" in the Tandy store today, so still available. But as already mentioned, many of those patterns are not. $$ values? Don't know, but there is great intrinsic value in learning how to do things the old way. Keep the traditions alive!

Looks real nice. Store it dry and keep it conditioned and it should last for many, many miles. Did you use saddle leather?

There is a French website for P. Paulin, which is selling shoe polishing compounds and various cleaners and oils, including 'Huile pied de boeuf cuir ' Which I believe translates roughly to Cow foot oil (my mother would be ashamed of my lack of Francais). Try what you have on some non-critical project or 3. I bet it works fine. Catalogue produit P. Paulin Cirage | Revendeur - Distributeur en ligne

glad it works for you.

I may be wrong (I have limited experience on machines), but I don't think sharpening the hook is common practice. I would think that the hook/needle interaction is more a matter of timing. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

Good job. Blue jeans don't need fancy. I did a similar belt build several years ago. But I found that I still wear the same old favorite belt day after day. It's broke in and stretched in all the right places.

I use 1/2 oz calf or pig for the inside pockets. As stated above, 4/5 oz for the outside needs a gentle hand for carving. Suggest carving a few practice panels to get the hang of it before building a whole wallet.

I've been thinking about making a watch strap and bingo! just the templates I need. Thank you!

A bandolier is really nothing more than a belt with pouches or bullet loops on it. Likely curved where it goes over the shoulder so that it lies flat. I should think there are patterns out there, several on Etsy, but it shouldn't be too difficult to create your own pattern. Start with paper and an idea, move on to a prototype, et voila, you're a bandolier maker. When you say "heads", do you mean the projectiles? Probably expensive in GB, but reloading bullets are available. Or if it' just for decorations, turn some on a wood or metal lathe. It's crafting time!

I saw the 45 rpm adapter at 1st, as well. The 2nd one looks like a Japanese kamon or crest.

That looks similar to a Doc Holliday rig, like in the movie Tombstone or Doc Holliday. Definitely an older style rig, late 19th century, early 20th century type. Sorry, I have no details for you, but there should be plenty of options around.

Very nicely done. That is a lot of excellent hand stitching, especially without a clam or pony. Wear it with pride.

I love it. You executed well. Yeah. Leave it to Tom Threepersons to design something like this. Simple, clean, highly functional and just a bit devious! I think this concept would be simple to adapt to a basic revolver hoster.

Also, buff the leather after the dye has dried. That helps alleviate much of the rub-off. Another route to take would be to chisel your stitchline after the dye job, instead of before. That also helps prevent thread staining. THis method does have the potential of showing raw leather inside the stitch line, however. There are pros and cons both ways.

Amazon has 'How to Carve Leather' by Al Stohlman and several other leatherworking books available in Kindle format for less than $8. US.

Saddle stitching without a pony is certainly doable. On Youtube Corter Leather has a very good vid on how to do it. A few practice pieces and you're off to the races.

Lots of practice, good tools, good leather, a quality finish and a good buffing. Easy peasy.

If you have Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters, the pattern for Hi-Point .22 on page 19, or for 9mm Luger on page 27 should work. The Ruger Mk II is very similarly shaped to both. This book also has concise instructions on how to make pistol patterns. Of course, you would need access to the pistol. Would you be able to go to the pistol club to draw the outline of the gun? Not sure how NZ's laws work. Or, the owner might draw the outline for you, avoiding breaking any hinkey laws, and gives you the basis for a simple fold-over pattern. If you know how to make a knife sheath with this method, you can make a pistol holster the same way.

Chicago screw is a simple fastener. A simple solution is in order. Chicago screws with a rubber washer is fine, if you want to buy them. In the mean time, if the only C screws you have don't include a rubber washer, simply use a small drop of rubber in the spot where the washer would fit. Give it a couple minutes to dry, and voila, you have a rubber washer, thanks to the rubber cement you likely already have on hand. C screws dont need to be real tight, either. I get good results simply holding the base with a fingertip while I tighten the screw.

There are so many different ways and means of concealed carry that vary depending on your weapon, your body type, clothing and other factors. Before you try to decide what holster to build I suggest you research those different methods and reasons. I second the motion to get training, as well. Carrying is a big decision with potential life-changing consequences. I usually carry a small 9mm IWB at the 4 o'clock position. When I tuck my shirt in, I can leave it tucked loosely around the pistol so that it won't snag or be visible. I also sometimes carry in my pocket. Texas does indeed have concealed carry without a permit for age 21 and over non-prohibited people since 2021. There is also a CCP still available. Check your local laws before making any decisions. When you're ready to carry, building your own holster is very satisfying and a matter of pride.