TonyV

AI, meh.

I don't use a leather machine but, after watching my mother, a couple sisters, and a daughter use machines to sew many quilts, I would have to say that small spools do ok feeding horizontally because they can spin easily, but large spools like yours don't spin so well, so should be fed from the top and going through a hook on a riser so that the thread then comes down into the first feed hole. This prevents the friction when the spool tries to spin. I don't think clockwise or counterclockwise really makes a difference.

That's a perfect use for a 'what could happen..' project Chuck! Kudos to you and your bride.

Dwight's method is spot on. He forgot to mention, you will probably build a few holsters before you get it just the way you want. They will certainly be functional, but perhaps not just how you want them to until you get your process down. I have several of those some I use, some I don't. I started using some 1/8 inch foam sheet (Amazon.com: MEARCOOH Black eva Foam roll, (1mm to 20mm) Premium Cosplay EVA Foam Sheet,2mm Thick,49"x13.5",High Density 86kg/m3 for Cosplay Costume, Crafts, DIY Projects : Arts, Crafts & Sewing) to model new ideas or patterns, which gives me a better idea how things will work. It's a lot less expensive than screwing up your leather.

NOthing wrong with that video, except.... the title, which should read "How not to use leather dye"

That's a good way to go. Sharp blade = clean cuts.

tsunkasapa uses the traditional awl style of sewing. JUst mark it with a wheel, pierce with an awl as you sew. Arthritis doesn't allow me to hold the awl and needle at the same time, so I use chisels. A lot of people use the terms 'chisel' and 'pricking iron' interchangeably. I see a difference, with the chisels used to cut through all layers of leather to be sewn, and pricking irons used to simply mark and start the hole (similar to wheels), to be followed with an awl. See my dilemma above. At present, I am using Weaver Leather's chisels in 4mm and 5mm. I started out with the cheap Amazon chisels, but they didn't last long and are definitely inferior to Weaver's. Bent, broke and dulled easily. I have recently seen Kevin Lee's chisels in action. The tapered tines make it a lot easier to pull the chisel out from the holes. A definite improvement over standard diamond chisels. They're sorta spendy, so I'm saving my pennies to get a set.

That's a good start. Simple yet functional. What knife did you use to cut the strands? It could use some honing to give you a smoother end product. I think sharpening/ stropping our bladed tools is one of the most important skills to learn as a beginner.

Small detailed carving can be a real bear. Patience and experience is the only way to get good at it. So practice, practice, practice. An angled swivel knife blade might help initially. JLS's suggestion re dampening the leather should help as well.

Mostly I use Weldwood contact adhesive, especially on larger pieces. Sometimes I use white "leather glue" (PVA?) when the project isn't intended to undergo a lot of stress. Sometimes I use double sided tape, where all I need is to hold small or light pieces together while I sew or rivet. Contact adhesive can be messy and difficult to manage on small, thin pieces. You have to align the pieces accurately on the first try but it is very strong and long-lasting. White glue works here, but takes a long time to dry, which also gives plenty of time to align pieces. Where the tape shines is on thin leather where glue might leave traces.

When I built my 1st holster 25 years ago, I simply bought a likely-lookin' piece of leather. I didn't know belly from butt. I've made better holsters from better leather since then, but I still use that old Slim Jim for my '58 Rem NMA clone. I think that old piece I bought was a relatively firm piece of belly, perhaps the upper portion and I've made sheaths and phone cases with it, too. Belly ain't all bad. It's good for learning.

1 coat. Antique is a stain that can stain just about anything it touches if it is allowed to dry, even pro-resist. So don't let it dry where you dont want. Technique counts here. Apply the antique in smaller sections and quickly wipe off before it has a chance to dry. Practice on scraps to get the feel of it ( you get some tooling practice this way, too). It might still darken the wipe-off areas a bit, but you will learn to take this into account. You can try 2 coats, or more, if you wish, but practice working smaller areas anyway. Practice is good.

I tie the knot between the layers then cut the threads as close to the knot as I can get with my utility knife. I don't use the knife to slice the thread in a cutting motion, but pull the thread against the thread so that they make the cutting motion. This helps avoid cutting the leather. If there is any little tag of thread still sticking out, just tuck it in, then hammer the seam.

Yeah, that's the vid I was thinking of. Or, just upsize the purse-size pattern to your liking.

Even on very dry leather it is easy to use too much oil. I usually apply just a light coat of NFO to the grain side and give it time to soak in. If it's still too dry, a 2nd light coat may be in ordre. Time to absorb is almost as important as quantity. Remember, you can add more oil if you need to, but it's pretty tough to remove it, and oil-soaked leather is just nasty. That said, I had a cetain piece of veg that was dryer than a math lecture. I brushed a bit of NFO on the flesh side and it definitely helped.

Your stitches look quite even and tidy. good job. Next, learn how to backstitch. I am not a big fan of burning the thread ends. I think it often looks untidy and unprofessional from soot and burnt leather. In most cases I will backstitch then tie a square knot between the layers, cutting the thread just below the surface. A correctly tied square knot will not come undone and, once the seam is tapped down with the hammer, invisible. In some cases when I can't tie a knot, I'll cut the thread short and use the needle or an awl to tuck it down into the hole on the back side of the project with a small dab of white glue. I will burn the ends occasionally, but not often. If you must burn your ends, remember that you're not lighting a torch! You don't want the thread to flame. Cut short and just melt the ends enough to make a tiny mushroom and use the lighter or something to press it smooth while soft. Make it as invisible as possible.

I used a trim paint roller on a 2'x 9" piece recently. worked well. My basic theory; larger piece, larger applicator.

The tooling in itself has stiffened the leather by the compression from stamping. Alcohol will dry it out a bit adding to the stiffness, so will dying (it contains alcohol). Use NFO or mink oil to condition it before dying. It will loosen up a little on its own over time and with use. Don't overdo the oil. Any oil or conditioner will darken the leather a little bit. It looks darker right after application then lightens some. That's all in the nature of leather and you will learn to work with it.

Ouch! I feel for ya, bro.

I can see how the front arch of the saddle might be used as a handhold by a passenger, while the horse is being led by someone else, a workaround for someone that doesnt know how to ride a horse.

Ballistol is my go-to CLP for all my guns. Its relatively high pH counters the acidity of rust quite well. I see no need to use NFO on the inside of my holsters aside from the initial conditioning in construction. Yes, I use a light application of NFO before assembly to condition the leather, but that's all. I have never encountered any issues of corrosion or rust, nor dry leather inside the holster. Incidentally, I grit my teeth any time someone recommends using suede to line holsters. I don't want the fuzzies getting into the works of my handguns. Some claim the suede helps in retention. I disagree. The fuzzies soon wear away, some of it into your gun. Chrome tanned suede is corrosive. Best to line the holster with veg tan and use wet molding and/or physical retainers like a strap, flap or chicago screws to secure the gun.

They both look real nice. Piping can be tough to do, and you did it well. 👍 My biggest critique is that you put the seam of the rolled collar on the inside. I think that could probably be an irritant to the dog. IMO the seam should be on the outside. MIght be easier to sew that way too.

It looks like you're piercing your thread with the needles. This causes tangles and it's a common problem for beginners. Run the left needle through the hole then pull the thread back toward yourself so that your right-hand needle has room to go through the hole without piercing the thread. When the RH needle is about halfway through, tug on the left thread to test whether it's pierced or not. If the RH needle moves with the tug, it's easy to fix now. Study a couple vids on how to saddle stitch by. J.H. Leather on youtube and you'll see what I'm trying to explain. Watch a couple times, practice on scrap and before you know it, you'll have a decent stitch. Once you have the knack, you will only get better. Until your arthritis takes over 🙄

There will (should) be gun oil on the firearm. Gun oils vary between slightly base to slightly acid. The slight difference in pH between leather and gun oil will be negligible. There really is no need to oil the inside of the holster, as some of the gun oil will transfer to the leather. Protecting the gun is the higher priority here and guns should NOT be stored in the holster when not in use. Normal application of NFO during your work process is adequate. It is the new owner's responsibility to keep the holster cleaned and conditioned and the gun oiled.

Lovely work!👍