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jcuk

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Everything posted by jcuk

  1. Hi, i also use a blow torch - i keep moving the creaser up and down through the flame, when i think it is hot enough ( it doesn't take not long at all) i wait about ten seconds than i crease.Whatever method you use to heat your creaser, you will get to know how long it will take to get it hot enough - also i hot crease before i stitch mark my work and once i have finished stitching, i will hot crease again and refinish the edges as well. Hope this helps JCUK
  2. Hi there Can i ask what weight was the Patent leather is ? The reason i ask is, because if its is 1mm to 2.5 mm you maybe better off getting yourself a clicker knife with curved blade, you can also get straight blades. Whenever i work with Patent leather, i mark and cut on the flesh side - i know you can scratch the patent side but i cover my cutting board with a piece of card (supermarket pizza base) wipe with sterile kitchen wife turn over protects the Patent side when cutting, when punching do the same piece of card over my punching board. I do use my round knife on Patent leather its a (Knipshield Texas Rosebud) dream to work with , had it over 2 years never had to sharpen it yet - mainly work with Bridle leather and Harness leather, when i start work i strop and when its time to finish work strop again no matter if i have cut or skived one strap or a hundred it will get stropped again. Also have a C.S. Osborne round knife, its a replacement for an older one which got damaged - great knife same can't be said for the new one can get it sharp, but it won't hold an edge so having constantly spending time on the knife not my work not good. How sharp ? This is my rule of thumb (sorry no pun intended) https://youtu.be/J5GqItjXtRI I do this for strap ends if i feel any drag or it does not feel how i know it should be also skiving down strap ends if the knife starts to slip or slide it needs some more attention than just stropping. Also you may want to check out other videos on his site, how to use and sharpen a round knife etc... Totally agree Hope this helps JCUK
  3. Hi there Did you manage to hit the previous stitch marks on the saddle flap using your machine? if so well done! I ask because the owner of the Stubben may expect this i did a similar repair a while back, yes it was an older Stubben too so to use the same stitch marks i just did it by hand. On the other subject riding schools live on their good safety reputation, poorly maintained tack i hate to say, is an accident waiting to happen. When i finished my training (you never really do something new crops up and you learn something new every now and then) i always say to myself if i would not ride on it i wouldn't send it out even if it means turning work down some tack is past the repairing safely stage you just have to say no because then it is your reputation on the line. Hope this helps JCUK
  4. No won't be cheap and you are maybe doing it at mates rates, same here still can't login to Abbey.
  5. jcuk

    On Ebay!

    Here are some bargains at the moment depending on bidding! Splitting machine (leather splitter) Plough gauge Hope this helps JCUK
  6. Sorry for the late reply not if you have done the work if so how did it go. If not very hard to help not seeing the saddle in flesh, to to drop the front i mark the pommel using a china graph pencil this is to show when you come to put back together you are lining it up correctly that way you will use the same holes when stitching/lacing it together the same applies when lacing the panels at the back of the saddle. Hope this helps JCUK
  7. Sorry for the late reply been pretty busy not sure if you have done the work if so how did it go? I have worked in the horse racing Industry for many years and racing people compared to other equine disciplines tend to have lower care of their tack - In the UK anyway. But the work does need doing the panels need flocking, and if they are split and cracked the leather will need replacing too (replace the whole panel). This is an expensive procedure which is why they are reluctant to have the work done. But the main consideration is safety to the rider and comfort of the horse/pony. Why do you think there is a need for saddle fitters if one size fits all? Or any old saddle will do. It's like anything in life maintenance is the key. Hope this helps Jcuk
  8. I also use a cobbler's hammer and i lay a clear piece of plastic over my work, i also do do this when forming running and fixed loops on my bridle work - where i use smaller faced hammer. Only i use clear sandwich bags and wrap it around several times but you can still see where you are hitting your work. Hope this helps JCUK
  9. Have a look at this link for the black, don't think you will get the blue - maybe ask, you never know. I cannot log in at the moment they updated their site, so as for cost not sure - but won't be cheap, but lovely leather. Make sure you scroll down to read the info. https://www.abbeyengland.com/pittards-panel-hides-7705.html This is another option with blue and black never used this leather so cannot give you any input of the quality. But i used the company a lot happy with the leather i have purchased. https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Chrome-Tanned-Leather/Coloured-Side/Full-Chrome-Side-Ashton Hope this helps JCUK
  10. I know its the other side of the pond but this may help you if not take a look at the other foams and neoprene on their site. I am sure you will be able to get the same foams closer to you but this will give you a idea what you are looking for send contact them see what they would recommend. Also making an exact pair out of the foam is tricky in itself at times, if you buy the pre-moulded ones, it will be easier to make them fit. http://abbeyengland.com/Store/CategoryID/407/List/0/Level/a/ProductID/68930 http://abbeyengland.com/Store/List/0/CategoryID/398/Level/a Hope this helps JCUK
  11. No worries let me know how you get on sorry for late reply been pretty busy. JCUK
  12. Here is a link to Abbey England they have traditional pricking irons. http://abbeyengland.com/Store/CategoryID/442/List/0/catpagesize/0/Level/a/ProductID/69231 Also here website can be hard work but they good to deal with. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/sewing.htm Hope this helps JCUK
  13. Hi there Have you looked at Abbeys standard range they are lot cheaper, not on sure of the length of the buckle - email them and they will tell you more. I have used some of the standard range for repairs and head collars and the quality is ok. http://abbeyengland.com/Store/CategoryID/361/List/0/Level/a/ProductID/69576 Also try this company the website is a bit old but they are a good company to work with, i have had some dog collar buckles and clips from this company good quality. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/brass-buckles.htm Sorry both UK based the buckles are a lot cheaper than the Abbeys premium range which may off set the shipping costs. Hope this helps JCUK
  14. Hello I went to the UK website and went through the process of purchasing - but didn't pay! And from what i could see the VAT was already included. Hope this helps JCUK
  15. This maybe a cheaper option to get you started https://www.identityleathercraft.com/index.php/the-leather-room/leather-pieces/light-weight-cream-white-calf-pieces.html https://www.identityleathercraft.com/index.php/the-leather-room/leather-pieces.html?limit=36&p=2 Hope this helps JCUK
  16. This is a family friendly forum so i won't tell you what i think its made from, and you know what they say buy cheap buy twice. Hope this helps JCUK
  17. I agree with Big Sioux you will have to drop the front of the saddle and it may give you better access to the nail, bear in mind once you have pulled the nail you will have to replace it and looking at the photos, it has a logo on it highly unlikely you will get one with the same logo so i would replace the the other side as well but that's just me Hope this helps JCUK
  18. Hi Yes I miss Sharp and Woollard in Stony Stratford too, I purchased some nice bridle butts from them around '97, I went to the tannery myself and chose them. I think it is the best bridle butt i have ever purchased, it was nice to work with, and to cut, and I still have a bridle made from it going strong today. I agree I hope Claytons group can be saved. JCUK
  19. Hi I am not in the market for another round knife at the moment, but if i was this looks a bargain and looks in good nick. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antique-Saddlers-Leather-RoundKnife-Tool/254029692804?hash=item3b25597f84:g:SjIAAOSwC85cF9aD:rk:3:pf:1 Hope this helps JCUK
  20. No real horror stories yet touch wood, I always take care when using my tools - the one tool i take extra care with is the Skirt Shave / French Edger if in anyway its slightly dull your control is not what it should be. Even when i did my training my tutors took great length to tell to be extra cautious when using it. Also Glovers needles can be..... .....pain in the finger at times. all the best JCUK ,
  21. Pretty much the same as Sheldonesh does in his restoration, only sometimes i get a Farrier to run it under his buffing machine to put a nice polished edge on it - but not to long as to get it too hot to lose it's temper or possibly warp the blade That is the advise he gave me, it seems to work well. I find the more my tools have good polished edge the they are better to use. Here also is another video showing how to sharpen the blade. Hope this helps JCUK PS All these splitter videos are your binge viewing for tonight get the beer and popcorn in
  22. Take look at these Hope this helps JCUK
  23. Great job i had the same splitter on my bench for many years, just got a good deal on a 84 splitter so i have retired it. I was thinking of selling it but don't think i will, its given me years of great service - if my bench was bigger i would have both the splitters on there. The 86 just set up for splitting looping, anyone thinking of buying a pretty cheap and easy to use, you could do lot worse than the 86 - yes it does not do lap skives but if you are handy with a round knife you can achieve them. Here in the UK they are around £465 not so cheap- you may think, but i have had mine 20 odd years and i bet there is even more than 20 years still left in the blade. Once again great job on the restoration on it thanks for video of the process. all the best JCUK
  24. only working one day a year and all those mince pies he does put on a few extra inches every year. He should be happy with this new belt this year nice work. all the best JCUK
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