Constabulary

Once again a nice piece!!! When you get rid of the upper feed you almost have a modern Luberto Classic

Thank you very much Greenwood Snap in table sounds interesting I´d like to see some pictures of your updates and the whole machine. When you click on the brown button "MORE REPLY OPTIONS" next to the black POST button you can upload some pictures.

I´m not 100% certain but maybe the lifting arm for the Consew´s may work. They at least work on the Singer 111 - not sure which I have ordered but I would guess that both would work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-227-CYL-W-F-FOOT-LIFT-LIFTING-LEVER-13056A-/120926496799?hash=item1c27c7e81f:g:UF0AAOSwDNdV4LB4 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-206RB-KNEE-LIFTER-LIFTING-LEVER-/290723356033?hash=item43b0765d81:m:mldhAL6SVn-OpwftFqtQ6uA

Thats part of the game but his machines does not look as if it had been oiled recently. Yet I had no problems with this method. I don´t think the amount of hydrogen coming from the bath is critical. But as always it depends on the concentration and a good ventilation (opening the door from time to time) can´t be wrong even when you work with kerosene and stuff like that. However - Many ways lead to Rome...

if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1. Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self.

Holy lord - wost machine I ever have seen - good luck with it - you may need 200€ - 300€ or more to restore it - if it is possible at all. A LOT of missing AND broken parts and rust has already eaten the metal. I would not touch it - its Junk. My opinion.

Kayser is an old German brand and AFAIK some of the Kayser machines are clones of Singer machines, maybe some even came from the Singer factory in Wittenberge, Prusia and have been relabeled. So I would guess Singer 18 is the exact same machine but I´m not 100% sure. We had too many different makers in Germany. Some pictures of your machine would be nice.

On 29K71´s - "the real ones" - you can see and access the screw from the hole when the arm is almost down on the front end. But you may need a flash light to see it and you have to loosen a nut on the opposite side first. I don´t know the Chinese variants but maybe some (I don´t know) don´t have this timing screw. I remember I have restored an 29K1 last Christmas and it also had no timing screw but it worked w/o it. Regarding V-Belt grove - do you mean the detectable hand wheel or the fixed pulley on the right? Usually the hand wheel has no grove but maybe the rubber wheel of the bobbin winder is meant to run in it.

I would remove all that fancy stuff. It probably has a reason why this machine no longer is running in an industrial environment (where it for sure comes from). Probably no reason but usually a normal leather worker does not need these fancy things. But If you like these features keep them and rebuilt them if necessary, why not. But I personally don´t need that stuff. Too many things that could cause trouble and costs.

Just wanted to have it mentioned because usually these machines have a lock lever on the adjuster. Try a manual from an Adler 67or 167 flat bed machine or the 168, 268 post bed amchines, they are updated models but pretty much the same technology. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/downloads/manuals.html

when I look close at your Adler 68 it seems as if the lock lever for the stich lenght adjuster is missing or is it just because of the angle?

usually 3 screws and often enough the servos are using the same screw holes so not very difficult. You have to adjust the new Servo in hight and sideways the way the pulley has about the same position as the one from the clutch motor. But thats work you have to do anyway if you do not like the clutch motor.

Oh - holly crap - I did not know. I only knew Chandler sold the Adler 67 as Chandler 67 so I assumed the C-267 would be the Adler 267. I always learn something new every day! Thanks for the info Gregg!

The Adler 67 looks nice - does it come with clutch motor or servo motor? The Highlead most likely has a much larger bobbin and a longer stitch lenght. Other than that I´m sure the Adler will serve you well.

I usually would agree when we atalk about "common" industrial machines but I think these extremely heavy machines with quite aggressive feed dogs are a different class I´d say. But have to admit I have no experience with them.

External servo motors for sewing machine will work with 99% - 100% of the V-belt driven industrial sewing machines. Not sure how much import taxes and custom fees you have to pay for the motor but alternatively you could buy a servo on Ebay Germany or from College sewing in the UK to prevent import taxes and custom fees. And they run on 220V 1 phase. $ : € exchange rate is quite bad atm so I´d check the 2 alternatives. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SewingMachineServoMotors http://www.ebay.de/sch/Textilgewerbe-Schneiderei-/45033/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=servo+motor&_sop=15

Look for an Adler 267 Manual - should be the same machine

I guess the needle bar is the same as for the Adler 105 (I guess) so probably a needle bar of an Singer 45K would fit as well. The 45K needle bars are 9.5mm / 0.375" in diameter and 26.2cm / 10.31" long. Maybe that will help you a little bit when you want to go from 2 to 1 needle. I also have a Singer 45K needle bar some edge guides and so forth - just for the case you need something

I have a couple of feet for the Single needle Adler 20. If you are interested send me a PM

Thats true - the badges are really nice. Thats one reason I´m still hoping to find and older Consew 227R over here. Now that I know Seiko had "cool badges" too I`ll probably add one to my want list. Stupid I know but I love the vintage stuff. Thumbs up TinkerTailor

Thats a big difference. If the reverse if set up well and stitches go in the same hole as forward it´s a nice feature but on the other hand $750 is a lot of money. Your decision. For $750 you can buy a lot of other tools for your business.

Both files are online again Service Manual and Parts List for Singer 29K71, 29K72 and 29K73 Instruction Manual Singer 29K58, 29K62

I agree - AMAN serafil, synton and rasant is what I like best

If the Seiko has reverse I´d buy the Seiko, 2nd the Techsew and last the Pfaff 335. Pfaff 335 at last because accessories and parts are more expensive and I like the drop in bobbin feature of the other 2 other and I think the horizontal hook can handle thicker thread. My 2 cents.

the darker one has no reverse!