Constabulary

I would check the foot bar height, make sure it has full contact with the needle plate when lowered. I would also check the height of the feed dog (maybe set too low?) and the condition of the under side of the presser foot as mentioned before. My 2 cents

The 26 is based on a Nakajima / Juki 341 AFAIK so this could helpful if Leather Machine Company has none: Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual_compressed.pdf Nakajima-321L-341L-Parts_compressed.pdf

Alright - thanks for that. I always feared the machine would be to heavy for "just hanging" on the table plate. I was thinking of approx the same construction but going from left to right and hanging on the machine stand and not on the plate. If you don´t mind please post some more pictures Nice solution for the speed reducer too! I will keep that in mind IF I ever find the time and patience and parts to set up the Singer 7.

never heard of MITZI but I also think its based on a Mitsubishi maybe a LT-2 or LU-2 of some kind just with a longer bed. Hope this helps. EDIT: when looking at pictures / videos of MITZI (MITZI kinda sound like a pole dancers stage name ) and Mitsubishi it seems the machine is using the Singer type gauge sets for different needle spaces. Thats good cause they are available fairly cheap. This is a download link for a LU-2 - maybe there are other LU-2 manuals for other sub classes but I think this is very close already. https://www.supsew.com/download/Mitsubishi/Mitsubishi LU2-4410, -4430 Instruction Manual.pdf

Thats true - thats how a new member starts - with one post. Thanks for the hint cause I just figured by today I´m 10 years here (had to check my own profile ) - so congratulations to my self. Poor me - no one else noticed that, no presents, no candles, no nothing - poor me . (again ***kidding*** - I better mention this) BTW - I do not consider the number of posts as some sort of rank or as an asset. I do not need that and I´m not hunting for likes (just in case you think so). And it is okay not to like me - you can put me on an ignore list and you no longer have to read what I write (not kidding). https://leatherworker.net/forum/ignore/ << hope this helps Yeah, THIS was a little rude - maybe - but only because I think we have a useless and fruitless discussion about sensitivities and it will make it easier for you to ignore me. If you are just leaving because of me - well then leave if you think a single member of several thousand (I guess) is a reason to leave because he is not able to deal with your sensitivities. Just put me on the ignore list. Hope you enjoy your day.

Noticed the bla bla smiley? That was a fun comment. You for sure know the purpose of smileys, right? Maybe this one was not obvious enough for you. And you may have noticed this: I know almost nothing about domestic sewing machines. I don´t use them cause they have no practical use for me. Yeah, photo fooled me too cause we usually (I underlined it) talk about industrial / heavy sewing machines for the leather trade here and not domestic sewing machines. But again - we figured it is not left standing so this is done - or not? Sorry but IMO you overreact here a little bit. Anyway - can we stop this and go BTT?

Nice Adler 20 !!! Can you take some pictures of the underside meaning how you "sunk" the machine in the table or with other words the bracing the machine is sitting on. I still have a Singer 7 kicking arround for a long time and its time to set it up and I would like to have it flat as yours.

what I would NOT do it pulling out the top shaft and removing the inner cam and the cam on the front end if not really accessory. Better use a brush and some solvent like paint thinner or kerosene for cleaning these parts.

Reg. the check spring - check this (extract from the manual)

Don`t go over the pin at the tension discs. Some folks do it (for what ever reason) but most don´t. In the manual the thread does NOT go over the pin. Then your bobbin case opener is not correctly adjusted, it does not pull back the bobbin case to make space for the thread to slide between needle plate notch and the small tab on the bobbin case . Reg. skipping stitches I would check the needle hook timing. I assume the needle bar a a little bit to high and / or the hook tip it too far away form the needle. You also have to check the check spring it appears to be set way too low. Also when starting to sew hold the 2 thread ends slightly tense for 2-3 stitches. Timing values are in the manual (guess you have one). If not I attach one for the 111G156 the values are the same as for your machine. Sorry its blurry cause I had to compress it. If you need a better quality PDF send me a PM with email address so I can forward it. Manual Singer 111G156_compressed.pdf

Patchers are no secret machines. Pretty sure you will succeed one or another way. Keep us updated with what you do.

Sorry I do not see where I´m making fun of you. If you feel I made fun of you then I´m sorry it was not meant like that. However - you posted a picture of unknown source of a domestic machine of which you said it is a left stand machine and another member (not me) figured it COULD be a mirrored picture. So we do not know if you flipped / mirrored the picture by accident or if it came from the add like this. With the lotion bottle pic I just proofed that the pic is mirrored / flipped so it is not a left stand sewing machine. Done I´d say. No one knows all and figuring things and bringing things into question is part of the game when talking about unknown sewing machines / tools / devices / finding technical solutions and so forth. That includes different opinions on things and questioning other members statements when having a different view / opinion. Nothing wrong with that - that's not an offense its just discussion. BTW - there is a lot of joking going on here - you will figure that. Thank you! Pretty sure you would admire the smoothness of my maltreated hands. Old Singer oil is my secret. <<-- joke... kidding.... === BTT if you don´t mind.

@trash treasure this may be some useful information

I think I once replaced this part on an Adler with a Singer part. The roller could be a problem if I recall correctly on the modern Chinese parts they are held by a c clip and could stick out a bit too far. But I´m not 100% sure. I still have 2 Adler 30 on my shelf and I have an OEM Singer feed motion Ring so I can check but that may take some time... But I have no Chinese parts that I could compare. EDIT: not entirely the same but I once compared 29K1 parts with 29K71 parts:

I do not know the Singer 95-40 but 88x1 is a short serger needle - or not? Aren´t the Singer 95 / 96 and 31 using system 16 needles ex factory? I think the system 16 needles all have the same length. If it was me I would check if is possible to use the same needle in both machines (lets say System 16). Maybe you just have to adjust the needle bar height a little bit.

just googled for some pictures of aloe pump bottles - found it: https://www.arrowsafetycanada.com/products/aloe-care-foaming-72-alcohol-hand-sanitizer-1l-pump-btl So definitely a mirrored picture and therefore no left stand machine except the earth curvature and space time continuum does not play a trick on me (**kidding**).

well - not rude IMO just making fun. Again look at the bottle (of what ever it contains - maybe Aloe hand lotion) on the shelf - the writing on the label is mirrored so Michiels assumption is right.

I think you are right - not knowing the machine but look at the label of the white bottle on the shelf Maybe that's hand lotion for left handed sewing machine operators.

Needle probably hit a hard spot or the needle plate and the NB moved up. I think you can reach the NB clamp screw from the front side see red circle (pic stolen from the WWW) check the attached file - it may help you with adjustments. Adjustment Pfaff 138.pdf

The 44 seems to be the short bed version of the Singer 31 / 31K. So I would go that route when looking for a manual. Major difference IMO is the bed size and the 44-30 seems to have a roller foot everything else IMO is like the Singer 31 / 31K.

thats what I forgot to mention

What WW1 stuff do you sew - "stuff" can mean a lot!? Maybe try - Hoogen Linen Thread (like #4 or #5), it was used for sewing shoe soles. I´m using it for sewing 9-10mm thick leather handles sometimes when restoring record field chests and the like. Other than than check GRUSCHWITZ linen threads - check the last 2 files in the list: https://www.gruschwitz.com/en/products/standard-products.html

At what point are you with your machine? With bobbin housing you mean the complete hook or just the bobbin case? If you have installed the hook on the drive shaft the bobbin case is held in place by a retainer and a bar that goes from left to right (positioning finger): https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1347-98419-bobbin-case-retainer-seiko-singer.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/103011-2528-singer-133k-bobbin-case-position-finger.html You should stay in the thread you started so we do not have to ask for pictures again (if needed) and it is easier to follow your steps.

thansk a lot - I will posts some update pictures maybe later today. I´m a bit occupied with annoying things.

could be the friction between leather and needle. The thicker the leather and the thicker the needle the more friction you have. Try sewing some other material like webbing or thinner leather and to check if it is still squeaking. A titanium coated needle (like GEBEDUR) may reduce the friction - maybe worth trying.