Constabulary

I think I have one... let me check...

I run 2 Jack Servos with 750w. One on a 111G156 with 1:3 speed reducer. No problems since 2014. The 111G155 / 156 machines have safety clutches if something goes wrong but generally you cannot overpower these machines. The safety clutch will not release just because of a higher power motor you need a resistance like needle hitting a hard spot in the material or the needle plate or at the hooks thread has accumulated a bird nest and blocks it but other than that you motor will run without problems. I sew really hard cotton webbing. BTW - I never have released my safety clutch. At slow speed you rather hear the motor knurling when sewing hard material but again the safety clutch never released. Thats at least my experience.

Look at that - so I better shut up But 0 is off, right? And next step is 350 or is there an acceleration ramp between 0 and 350 when the knob is on 0?

A fairly cheap cobbler / leather finishing machine in northern Germany (no mine). https://www.ebay.de/itm/193741093791 Maybe something for our members in the UK or the Netherlands. You need space of course but maybe worth traveling... Seller even takes Paypal.

yes but afaik the Family sew motors are not available on our sides of the pond (meaning EU and UK) and in 230V but I may be wrong.

4-5 inches too short, really? Mismeasured, miscut or forgot the buckle end fold or all together? Or what do you think what happened? Leather does not shrink 4-5 inches all of a sudden.

Most "cheap" servos start at 200-300 rpm and have a 70mm pulley. To slow down the motor far enough you may install a larger hand wheel instead of a speed reducer. I do not know of any "cheap" (meaning 100-200€ / GBP range) servo motor in the EU hemisphere that is extremely slow at the start and has a good amount of torque at slow speed. Not saying there is none but I do not know of any. The addition of a 40-50mm motor pulley + a larger hand wheel or a speed reducer is almost mandatory I´d say. I don't want to got without a SR - I have them on all my machines. Much more comfortable! Maybe the HoShing series is what you need but I have no experience with them. https://globalsew.com/ho-hsing/

Often industrial sewing machines share parts across the brands so it could be that this binder setup probably works for your machine as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Binder-Needle-Plate-Feed-Dog-For-Consew-206Rb-Juki-Dnu-1541-241-Gc0618-1/143653651993 Or a set incl correct presser feet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Walking-Foot-Needle-Plate-Feeder-Tape-Binder-Binding-For-Juki-Dnu-241-Dnu-1541/143603135972 EDIT: just noticed your machine is mentioned in the description (see 1st link) EDIT II regarding raised binder plates - you only need a raised needle plate on vertical hook machines (like Singer 111) because the hook or bobbin case opener are in the way and therefore you cannot install a plate with a "sunk" binder. Horizontal hook machines like yours have needle plates as shown above where binder is sunk because there are no parts in the way that could come in interference with the binder.

2nd its a machine from the 1960s (and onward) - so a relatively new one. I have a good clear 111G156 (same machine but with reverse) manual if you want it send me your email address by PN Lots of timing values in it, basically all you need.

This is a Juki 562 FP from College Sewing: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/b3101-053-000-face-plate-juki-genuine.html This is one from Ebay (cheapest I could find incl. shipping ) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Face-Cover-Plate-For-Juki-LU-562-LU-563-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-B3101-053-000/401098051932 Both will work cause the 562 is a clone of the Singer 111. Not sure if the Ebay plate will fit perfectly cause it is an aftermarket part but still the best option I think. EDIT: Looks like CS has the plate on back order.

not sure which face plate you need. Needle feed and triple feed plates area bit different, I may have a face plate for the needle feed version and the screw as well but have to look for them.

College Sewing in the UK has all parts. If you cannot find them in the Singer section check the Juki 562 / 563 or Seiko STW or LSW series machines. Lots of Seiko, and Juki parts are compatible. Thats the big advantage of vintage Singer machines. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/10707-vis-de-regulation-seiko-origine.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224144-attachment-slide-plate-front-singer-212.html Face plate for the 111 or 112? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/210911-singer-112g-112w-212w-face-plate.html If you cannot find the parts search for the the parts number and if that does nor help send CS an Email, they respond soon.

You can sew thicker materials with a longer needle, meaning the needle bar will not hit the foot when the material gets thicker. When ever possible I set all my machines to 135x17 no matter what the original needle system is just because I only have to stock one needle system and can use them in all machines.

we do not know your machine and how everything is set up also the picture you posted is very small and hard to tell where / how it is mounted. What source comes the picture from? Plain cheap "wax post" are the oil cups for the Singer 29K but not sure if that's is helpful in your setup.

I do not know this clicker but I guess you have 380V CEE plug right, maybe you have to change a phase. Just a guess, I know nothing about clickers but many modern 380V devises have a phase switcher (not sure if this is the correct English term) https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=phasenwender Hope you know what I mean. Again - just a guess!

Both have 2mm shank diameter. The 135x17 is ~5mm longer than the 135x5. So when you are using 135x5 and want to switch to 135x17 you have to raise the needle bar by ~5mm (plus some fine tuning maybe) and vise versa.

Hot needle are normal when sewing dense / thick materials. And the higher the sewing speed the hotter the needle. Nothing unusual. There are needle cooler available if thats an option or a thread lubricator may reduce the friction a bit as well but not sure if that works for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=sewing+machine+needle+cooler&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VubgucjcRKI7IM%2CVfRYIl9y3fqOXM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTRBX3MAqPDlYixlgbu0EyCmn8Ygw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi14KOBuejsAhWGqqQKHaVCCmQQ9QF6BAgFEEc#imgrc=VubgucjcRKI7IM https://leathermachineco.com/product/magnetic-thread-lubricator/

Are you sure D2 is the needle holder? The double needle afaik is for sewing tucks and for sewing tucks I think the two "D2 holes" are to far apart - or not? If D2 are needle holders would the needles pass through the slot in the needle plate? I´m not sure... I´d rather say the 2 needles are clamped in the notch left and right of the center needle holder but 1738 most likely is the right needle anyway.

Frobana and Gritzner are out of production for a long time and if you see modern types of this machine they are most likely refurbished old machines. A cobbler told me that a few month ago. I always thought they are continued by other companies.

I´m not 100% sure but the double needle holder where meant for small diameter shanks like the 287 / 1738 needle if I recall that correctly.

Yes, if you want to cut the tape your self from fabric you need a binder that folds center + top + bottom. Clean finish so to say. But I don´t think there are shell binder for the 69 that fold tape to a clean finish. You may tinker something. I did that with binders for my 108w too. I took a binder for a flat bed machine and modified a bracket so I can use all kind of binders / folders for flat bed machines now. Or you cut and iron your tape (like bias tape) then you can use plain shell binder too. I have some tape makers / belt loop folder like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-60Pcs-Fabric-Bias-Binding-Tape-Maker-Kit-Binder-Tool-For-Sewing-Quilting/274504755967

Edge binders come in a looooooooooooot of variants, most common are raw edge binders which fold the tape just once in the center. Then you have clean top and clean bottom binders which folds the tape twice (1x center + 1x top or bottom) and you have binders that fold the 1x center + 1x bottom + 1x bottom. So lots of variants. There may be more but thats what is most common. Edge binders of any type are usually set for using just 1 type of tape. Make sure the binder can handle the thickness of the tape you want to use and have a wide enough "mouth opening" so that is can handle the material thickness you want to bind. College Sewing has a wide range of binders in different qualities. I usually take the economy binders https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments/economy-golden-eagle-folders/economy-golden-eagle-binders.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments/economy-golden-eagle-folders/economy-golden-eagle-binders/economy-shell-binder.html The numbers on the shell binders like 18 x 6 x 1.5 mean: 18mm tape width x 6mm mouth width x 1.5mm max. tape thickness You may find them cheaper on Ebay but CS offers a good range of binders and gives you a good overview of whats available and they for sure have a better customer support than Ebay sellers from China Hope this helps. EDIT: A tape rack may be useful too but that depends on your workflow and output if you need one or not. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/chair-stands-table-tops/tape-racks I always wanted to test this one but it will not fit your Adler 69 (so rather a note to my self ) https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/tr212w-tape-rack-with-tension-bracket.html

Pretty sure that it is a fake / scam website. Better buy from a dealer witha good reputation.

depends on the needle and thread size you want to use. I would test this on some scrap leather.

You probably can replace the needle holder if not frozen or is one piece with NB ex factory. I´m not sure in your case but the new NB have replaceable needle holder. If not replaceable buy a new gauge set with needle bar. I´m pretty sure the nowadays needle holder will take 135x17 needles but better check with the dealers.